The Wand Company TOS Tricorder is coming!

[FANATICO]

The rod going through mine is a little bit looser on the right and causes it to rattle when closed sometimes because there's a bit more give on it, not annoyingly so but my other trike doesn't do it so it's nagging me lol. If the door just rotates on the rod once it's in place I can either put some glue on it, kink it a bit or if the whole lot rotates put a thicker 2mm rod in if it will fit through the door ... the ends I can adjust to go into the side panels.

If it was me….I wouldn’t have bought the Tricorder’s in the first place …… just kidding.

If it was me……IF I knew that the rod pivoting/rotating was done at the sides holes…then I would glue the rod in place within the door….imo.

If you glue…you’ll have to get rid of the “looser” play, the slop and make sure the rod is correctly aligned horizontally with the door…otherwise you’ll end up with slightly misaligned looking door.

 

[Technoboots]

Guys, I know a couple of people have taken the side(s) off and examined the rods but I haven't had a chance yet, can someone let me know does the rod going through the disc/moire door move with the door as it's opened and closed or do the sides hold it in place?

The door rotates at the sides with the section in the door itself held firmly in place due to friction.

If you want a firm door all you have to do is squeeze one end of the rod to deform it slightly. When you put it back in the deformation will end up causing the rod to be held in place firmly. The door will then rotate around the section within the door. The friction in this section will cause the door to no longer flop about.

 

[Leinads]

Polished bezel?

The bezel looks great. Did you buff the disks as well? I might do a bit of polishing on mine to remove some scratches, maybe using ultra-fine steel wool to keep it polished but with a matte finish.

 

[Simonized]

The bezel looks great. Did you buff the disks as well? I might do a bit of polishing on mine to remove some scratches, maybe using ultra-fine steel wool to keep it polished but with a matte finish.

I "borrowed" the bezel from my delta communicator just to see if it will fit, wands won't polish up.
I did buff the discs but I was reminded after that they're anodized so I may have removed the coating but so far no blackening from touch and the polish I used gives a protecive coating, just the usual fingerprints on anything polished.

 

[Simonized]

The door rotates at the sides with the section in the door itself held firmly in place due to friction.

If you want a firm door all you have to do is squeeze one end of the rod to deform it slightly. When you put it back in the deformation will end up causing the rod to be held in place firmly. The door will then rotate around the section within the door. The friction in this section will cause the door to no longer flop about.

So literally just pinch the end that goes into the side plate? Cool!

 

[FANATICO]

I’m going to call this out as another Engineering Symbol (partially hidden) Easter Egg near the backside of switches/lights PCB….

 

[Simonized]

I’m going to call this out as another Engineering Symbol (partially hidden) Easter Egg near the backside of switches/lights PCB….

View attachment 1956042

Admit it guys, you're just trying to find more Easter eggs.

 

[FANATICO]

For anyone who might be interested……here are where the pin outs are on the ARM MCU when using the built in LTDC to drive the LCD-TFT Display. I have extrapolated all LCD related signals and RGB data lines from the ARM MCU data sheets tables pgs. 58 - 77 to transcribe them in color onto the chip drawing below. Feel free to fact check me.

By the way…..when working with electronics at the PCB or component level….always use a grounding strap to avoid possible damage by ESD

Below is from the the LTDC (LCD-TFT display controller) Application Notes….bare in mind that the RGB666 is not the LCD-TFT display used in the Tricorder…it is shown as an example LCD. The configuration of LCD module may change from mfg to mfg.

On the LDTC below I’ve labeled the pin outs to cross reference what I labeled on the chip with color coding for RGB, etc. as well as also cross reference to the tables in the ARM LTDC data sheets mentioned above.

Perhaps this will help someone, if not now, then in the future ……

I still think we need schematics or the mfg and or P/N to the Tricorder’s actual display module to see what it’s actual input requirements are from the ARM.

So far, from the teardown vid…I’m not seeing separate wiring cable for Power and Ground to the display other than the 24 pin ribbon cable. I’m presuming that those signals might be supplied to the display from the ARM through the 24 pin ribbon cable. Unless there was a separate power and ground cable that was hidden so that it wasn’t seen in the teardown vid.

Here’s a quick overview of what’s mentioned about power management within the ARM from its datasheet…

“
Reset and power management
• 3 separate power domains which can be independently clock-gated or switched off:
– D1: high-performance capabilities
– D2: communication peripherals and timers
– D3: reset/clock control/power management
• 1.62 to 3.6 V application supply and I/Os
• POR, PDR, PVD and BOR
• Dedicated USB power embedding a 3.3 V internal regulator to supply the internal PHYs
• Embedded regulator (LDO) with configurable scalable output to supply the digital circuitry
• Voltage scaling in Run and Stop mode (6 configurable ranges)
• Backup regulator (~0.9 V)
• Voltage reference for analog peripheral/VREF+
• Low-power modes: Sleep, Stop, Standby and VBAT supporting battery charging “

“
Low-power consumption
• VBAT battery operating mode with charging capability
• CPU and domain power state monitoring pins
• 2.95 μA in Standby mode (Backup SRAM OFF,
RTC/LSE ON)”

Btw…..the Tricorder LCD-TFT module is also known as a peripheral….when reading the ARM data sheets and the LTDC Application Notes….

 

[Technoboots]

So literally just pinch the end that goes into the side plate? Cool!

Yes. You only need to do one side of the rod as well. Just push out the rod from one side, give the end that pokes out a pinch and then push it back in. It causes the rod to friction lock against the side plate.
I tried it with a brass rod I had on hand and it worked. I switched back to the original rod though as I was already happy with how mine is. Couldn't help trying it though.

 

[Simonized]

Yes. You only need to do one side of the rod as well. Just push out the rod from one side, give the end that pokes out a pinch and then push it back in. It causes the rod to friction lock against the side plate.
I tried it with a brass rod I had on hand and it worked. I switched back to the original rod though as I was already happy with how mine is. Couldn't help trying it though.

I didn't realise you could just push the rod out, I thought it was held from the inside and that you had to take one of the aluminum side panels off.

 

[Technoboots]

I didn't realise you could just push the rod out, I thought it was held from the inside and that you had to take one of the aluminum side panels off.

Nope. The rods are just straight lengths of 1.5mm diameter aluminium and are just held by friction. They come out very easily making the door easy to work on. I just push it in enough to unlatch one side then lift it out on that side.

 

[FANATICO]

Yes. You only need to do one side of the rod as well. Just push out the rod from one side, give the end that pokes out a pinch and then push it back in. It causes the rod to friction lock against the side plate.
I tried it with a brass rod I had on hand and it worked. I switched back to the original rod though as I was already happy with how mine is. Couldn't help trying it though.

As vernacular differ sometimes between countries…..to say “pinch” is that to say the physical action to ‘crimp’ ?

Random example….

 

[Technoboots]

As vernacular differ sometimes between countries…..to say “pinch” is that to say the physical action to ‘crimp’ ?

Basically the same yes. Pinch as in giving it a squeeze.

 

[FANATICO]

I managed to get into the tricorder and i now have a copy of the firmware that i can view. I dont know what good it is yet, but im currently perusing thru it... wish i knew more about this stuff

here's how I did it if anyone wants to try it out:

Trying To Get My Toy Tricorder To Play Some Star Trek

Hello everyone. I was posting about this over in the n00b friendly general help thread, but it was suggested I start a new thread here. Im new to this site and have no experience with coding or anything like that, but Im willing to learn! Anyway...

xdaforums.com

I can’t seem to find the link to the downloadable (for pc) …Bin opener/viewer you had posted….what is that link again? Thx.

Perhaps you could post the link and steps for reading/viewing the bin file on XDA

On the XDA….your hilarious

 

[Simonized]

Nope. The rods are just straight lengths of 1.5mm diameter aluminium and are just held by friction. They come out very easily making the door easy to work on. I just push it in enough to unlatch one side then lift it out on that side.

Thank you, saves time. Is this process the same for the lower compartment? I want to try the aluminium tape on the sides hehe.

 

[Technoboots]

Thank you, saves time. Is this process the same for the lower compartment? I want to try the aluminium tape on the sides hehe.

It's exactly the same. Definitely made it much easier applying tape when you can just take out the whole section.

 

[2vix]

So far, from the teardown vid…I’m not seeing separate wiring cable for Power and Ground to the display other than the 24 pin ribbon cable. I’m presuming that those signals might be supplied to the display from the ARM through the 24 pin ribbon cable. Unless there was a separate power and ground cable that was hidden so that it wasn’t seen in the teardown vid.

I was thinking about this as well. There could be an additional power connector that we just didn't see in the teardown vid.
like this:

BTW great work on tracing those pin-outs. If you dont mind i will post what you've done on the Raspberry Pi thread I have going.
One of the folks there thinks that power/ground will be the only thing i can positively identify:

 

[2vix]

I can’t seem to find the link to the downloadable (for pc) …Bin opener/viewer you had posted….what is that link again? Thx.

Perhaps you could post the link and steps for reading/viewing the bin file on XDA

On the XDA….your hilarious

Here is a link to that reader. Its called HxD. Its a nice little light-weight program, but im just using stm32cubeprogrammer now. It works well for viewing the firmware, and its software made by the same company that made the microcontroller in our trike

 

[FANATICO]

I was thinking about this as well. There could be an additional power connector that we just didn't see in the teardown vid.
like this:
View attachment 1956075

BTW great work on tracing those pin-outs. If you dont mind i will post what you've done on the Raspberry Pi thread I have going.
One of the folks there thinks that power/ground will be the only thing i can positively identify:
View attachment 1956077

I’m aware of the stm32cubeprogrammer………You are a Go for the posting

 

[FANATICO]

I was thinking about this as well. There could be an additional power connector that we just didn't see in the teardown vid.
like this:
View attachment 1956075

BTW great work on tracing those pin-outs. If you dont mind i will post what you've done on the Raspberry Pi thread I have going.
One of the folks there thinks that power/ground will be the only thing i can positively identify:
View attachment 1956077

Sometimes one can trace a company to its stylized logo online….there are online free utilities for that.

I think the “W” stamped on the lcd cable assembly is a stylized logo…..not including the standard font “L”.

So I’m no artist but here’s the closest I can come to what the logo may look like…..dimensionally it’s probably not correct but perhaps close enough….

I don’t know if the color is right……the white used on the ribbon is stand silkscreening white for PCB’s, and some cables and connectors. (Maybe it is white?)

I haven’t tried yet to trace the logo……but if others want to join in …feel free