The Ultimate Ben Obi-Wan Kenobi Real Vintage Parts Lightsaber Group

[Edraven99]

 

[Panaflex]

Ok, who was the lucky one at $11,000?

 

[corliss1]

So $13,750 + shipping + insurance? Still seems like a pretty alright deal.

 

[Jediseth]

Correct It sold for $11,000 with a 25% buyers premium that takes it at $13,750 plus taxes. It's a little higher than the one that sold on Ebay last year, prices seem pretty consistent with what's been selling lately.

 

[NathanM]

Seems reasonable though looking at individual parts prices seems like the market reached it's peak. Easier to buy a full kit and part out the extras you don't need.

 

[coolhanluked]

So nowadays you'll spend more on the parts individually than a full saber put together. Cool...

 

[Scruffylooking]

Considering the last couple of correct BP’s have sold for over $8k alone, I’d say this was a bargain. Congrats to the buyer!

 

[Halliwax]

So nowadays you'll spend more on the parts individually than a full saber put together. Cool...

I agree.. if someone is in the market, I’d hold out for a complete one rather then collecting parts

 

[NickCline]

I honestly think the Prop Store auction wasn’t the place to list this piece to yield it’s highest possible return. It would’ve sold for more on eBay, in my opinion. But considering the now previous owner is the COO of Prop Store (a name we all know very well), I understand why he chose to list it where he did.

The one that sold on eBay last year ended higher than this latest one. I also briefly listed my personal build a couple years ago, and after fielding two offers for asking price, I turned them both down because I couldn’t bring myself to part with it. And I asked for much more than either of the last two that have come to market.

 

[schrodinger555]

I agree completely with what Nick said, I was expecting it to go for quite a lot more and imagine that on eBay it would have fetched a better price. At the current high end of rates for parts, you'd be lucky to build it for less than 16 or 17k depending on the provenance and condition of parts. Some have built theirs for much more and much less, but the price this one went for is surprising given the background, but then again, not surprising given that this wasn't really a prime market for a reproduction even one made from real parts.



On another note! Something of interest!

I just received this beautiful vintage tap from Dan who is selling some in the JY right now, and it is stunning! He has been doing some really great work finding authentic armitage shanks taps around the UK recently and has been offering them back into the community. One of the pieces he found was this special red tap with a metal cap which just says "armitage" instead of the usual "armitage shanks"

Some research indicated that Armitage and Shanks were two separate companies that merged in 1969 to form Armitage Shanks. This tap then is from before the companies merged. They kept the same construction for the rest of the tap, just changing the stamping on the cap to indicate the new name of the company. Most of the taps I have seen, including my later cold tap in the second photo, have raised letters, while this early style has letters that are stamped into the cap itself. I've never seen a tap with just "armitage" stamped into it before, and to my knowledge this would be the earliest version that was produced.

 

[teecrooz]

Very cool Emiliano! Here is the metal cap that likely came between those two.

 

[teecrooz]

 

[Halliwax]

Never knew the metal caps existed

 

[Jediseth]

Never knew the metal caps existed

Rare as dinosaur poop.

 

[Saberz]

I could not finish my build this weekend, but since I've promised to few people already to post some pictures - here they are. I've borrowed the beat up clamp and the cold handwheel (both vintage) from my roman's so I can show a complete build. But then they'll go back on the romans as I'll use another clamp and a hot handwheel for this one. The BP is a converted male. Most of the parts I've obtained from other forum members - big thanks to everyone and I hope you'll like the end result

View attachment 1471437




And here is a quick preview with the new clamp, my new MA transistors and the hot handwheel (just loosely put together, still need a D-ring, bubbles and to attach everything permanently)



I really start to like how it looks with the red ring, so I think I might leave it on



and finally I'll add a small verso fx install with a crystal chamber and neopixel blade support ... although I'm not sure yet if the small battery that I can fit in the available space will have enough juice to power the blade

Holy smokes! That is just gorgeous. Your grenade is PRISTINE, looks so good. There's a bunch in here I'd love to ask you about, if you'll permit some Obi-ANH newbie questions. First, how on earth can you fit an FX install in one of these?!? Is the blade just sitting in the BP with no retention mechanism?

Also, regarding windvanes - does anyone do anything to secure them in place, or prevent the ring from sliding off the turbine section? Or are those just always floating too?

 

[Ridire Firean]

EEK! The dreaded Double Post!

Well, since I can't delete it, I might as well make this space useful...

Hey Sym-Cha ! Hi! I'm checking in per your request. There's a lot going on here recently!

Congratulations to all of you who've been able to aquire more/all parts for your build!

 

[Ridire Firean]

Thanks everyone! I'm glad you liked it!

The Tunisia "version" of the saber is my favorite. It is also closest to the original design idea I suppose. I found it interesting that the wind vane cannot fully screw into the grenade that way, which is like it appears to be also on that famous Tunisia picture.

Hey v312 ! Remember it could simply be the Square-Ended Hale's Grenade...

Defining the OWK tunisia saber. Is it even possible?

Looks a bit like a resin cast to me too. The dark contrast of the area, and the matching shapes inside a sink knob have always suggested negative space to me too. First I've seen of a letter there, im glad you brought it up, its always worth challenging a little I read through this thread...

www.therpf.com

That or your grenade is simply suffering from E.F.S. (Edie Fitzgerald Syndrome).

What did you use along the sides of your Crystal Chamber? Are those long-tailed resistors?

Good Luck on your build! I can't wait to see it lit up!

 

[Ridire Firean]

Also, regarding windvanes - does anyone do anything to secure them in place, or prevent the ring from sliding off the turbine section? Or are those just always floating too?

Hey Zenkai ! A wrapping of Teflon Tape on the threads would do the trick. Won't hurt your parts, is fully removeable, and should be fully hidden by the Fan Blades! A little Electrical Tape would also work but you'd have sticky residue to contend with should you remove it. You could go period correct and put a bit of Gaffer Tape on the threads. I wouldn't personally use epoxy or superglue, but a little Elmer's Glue or a drop of Hondalock1 would hold it in place and still allow you to unscrew it with a bit of effort or a soaking.

 

[Ridire Firean]

Oh, wait. Hey @ Zenkai ! Do you you mean keeping the stamped ring on the fan blades?

I've been thinking for a long while about how to repair the ones teecrooz gave me. As the stamped rings are cracked, mine don't stay on very securely, and I've often wondered about how to solder them back together and possibly soldering the ring to the fan blades.

I think if your stamped ring is in good condition, I'd use a little Elmer's Glue to hold it onto the fan blades. Again, it'd be easy to soak it loose should you need or want to reposition the ring on the fan blades.

 

[Saberz]

I was asking both questions! Yes, how to keep the whole assembly stable on its threading, and also how to keep the stamped ring from sliding off the fan blades. So thanks for answering both of those. Makes perfect sense.