The PEPAKURA question thread - PLEASE READ RULES IN FIRST POST!

I keep getting blank pages in Pepakura. Print Preview shows the colored pieces on the various pages like they should be, but when I actually printed to paper, the pages just had the corner hash-marks and the page numbers. I tried printing to PDF, to see if it was just my printer, but it prints blank there as well.

Transparency is set to 0%, and I can't see anything else that would cause this issue. Does anyone have any ideas where I could look to fix this?
 
Ok, just out of morbid curiosity, I printed from print preview into a PDF, instead of just printing directly to PDF, and for some reason THAT came out correctly in the PDF, so now I'm printing to paper from the PDF, and that's printing just fine. It makes no sense, but it's working.
 
Pepakura and printer settings are two completely different monsters. Pepakura is not (and was never) designed to latch and understand Windows standards, and it was also not designed as a direct print platform. PDF conversions were never an immediate plan, even now, the few (and they are incredibly few) profits they make off of pepakura are for the ancillary work development.

Lodrill, what are you using for a computer and printer?
 
A PC with Windows 8.1. I'm pretty sure Pepakura is supposed to be for printing though... it's entire purpose is to take 3D models and make them into printable two-dimensional things for papercraft.

The weirdest part is that it's so inconsistent. If I hit the print button on the regular menu, it pulls up the print dialog and then gives me all blank pages. If I pull up the print-preview and hit the print button there, it takes me to the exact same print dialog, but then it prints just fine. If I pull up the print-preview, then close the print-preview and use the print option from the regular menu, it's blank again.

At least there's a functional workaround, but it's a bit bizarre. It does it with both paper and PDF prints, so it's not something in my particular printer, it's something in Pepakura itself. I've seen other people post similar complaints around the web, and they usually get the standard 'did you check for transparency' and 'are all the lines white' questions, but then they never report back saying the problem is fixed... so maybe the problem wasn't fixed, or they just found the same nonsensical workaround I did and are using that.

SO! To anyone else with the problem of blank pages who may later be searching for this answer - try printing from the print-preview print button. :)
 
my pep question.. totally new to this (havnt seen a thread about this) but was wondering. the "standard" way I know of is that you print the HUGE pattern on a bunch of "standard sized" paper/card board sheets, then tape it all together and cut etc. is there anyway to put the pep files on a flash drive and have them printed on "fullsized" poster board?? I can get 22'' x 28'' poster board at the dollar store, 3 for a dollar. kinko's and staples tell me they can do a full 22'' 28'' b.w. line drawing's for like 4-6 bucks. seems to me that having a full helmet or armour in "one paper piece" would be a lot easier then lining up and taping a bunch of sheets together and going from there...and im not sure the printing/taping cost is the same as doing it at home tho..but at about 5 bucks a sheet printed on poster board.....any thoughts?? you can laugh now....:$
 
funboy1013xx said:
wow 5 days and nobody pep wise has a thought...:confused
Click to expand...

You could have all of your pieces printed on one piece of large paper, but the computer that it prints off of would have to have the Pepakura software loaded onto it; you need the software itself to set large custom size papers.
Depending on the unfold, a lot of peps do not require that much taping of pieces across paper sections, relatively, and the software can add alignment markers to make the work fairly easy. Also, cost wise, it will very likely be cheaper. You can buy the 8 1/2x11 cardstock for about 7 bucks/ 150 sheets, so a pack and change should do an entire armor. Also, in the end all of those pieces still have to be cut out, no matter the size of the paper they are printed on.
 
starlord.JPG

hey everyone, was wondering if anyone could help me out. The picture is of my star lord helmet. I used a pattern I found here, but when i glued everything together, my ears didn't fit. the pen is where it should line up. I double measured everything and just can not figure out what the problem is. I used poster board as cardboard was to hard for me to cut, and didn't want to commit to foam in case it didn't go well.

thanks
 
mmadadamm said:
hey everyone, was wondering if anyone could help me out. The picture is of my star lord helmet. I used a pattern I found here, but when i glued everything together, my ears didn't fit. the pen is where it should line up. I double measured everything and just can not figure out what the problem is. I used poster board as cardboard was to hard for me to cut, and didn't want to commit to foam in case it didn't go well.

thanks
Click to expand...

It's never going to line up perfectly when you assemble it, simply because the pieces aren't perfectly one-dimensional. You get shifts from thickness added when gluing flaps together, imperfections in how you aligned the pieces, etcetc...the former in particular is noticeable the thicker your materials are, and if you're using foam is always an issue (although you can compensate there with beveled cuts, so it works out). Also the pattern you're using may have been designed with a different material in mind, exaggerating the problem.

Just adjust the size of the piece so that it's right. Think of this artistically; you're going to have to deviate a little, it's not an exact science. It's not going to hurt anything. (Do be careful to try to keep things symmetric for something mirrored like this, though.)
 
Hello all!

I'm having an issue with my unfolding process, and I can't quite pin down what is causing it, so I figured I'd ask here.

Help.jpg
This is what my 3D Blender model (3ds file) looks like in Pepakura Designer 3. I can select ALL the edges EXCEPT for those around that white area. I have NO idea why that area is showing up like that. In Blender the model looks completely cohesive and fine, so I have no idea where the error is occurring.

If anyone has some tips, I would really appreciate it!
 
Looks like you need to flip your normals in blender. Try going into blender, select all in edit mode and then flip normals, then export to obj.
 
Bandiet said:
Looks like you need to flip your normals in blender. Try going into blender, select all in edit mode and then flip normals, then export to obj.
Click to expand...

Also, when you first load the model into Pepakura (as an OBJ/STL/etc. not a PDO), it will prompt you at one point to flip normals. Select yes, and it will reverse everything for you.
 
I want to make a Star Wars rebel soldier helmet out of paper using the PEPAKURA technique. I can't find the file as I'm not sure what the exact name of the helmet is

Rebel trooper, ground crew helmet, technician ?

I believe from the movies the original helmet is the fourth from the left http://www.mg501.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10019/myfleet14sm.jpg but I prefer the last one on the far right with the visor.

Has anyone come across this this type of helmet ?

Also, does the visor on the far right look like a motobike helemt visor ?
 
That's a rebel fleet trooper helmet\blockade runner. Blaxmyth had one up for a while:

http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=142351

If I recall right, the originals were vacuum formed using a WWII Navy talker helmet as the buck like the imperial navy trooper helmets were, I'd expect the visors were done the same way in a different material.
 
Thanks

So do you think it's a good match to the original helmet ? My idea is to make the helmet in paper then cut it in half so i can somehow get the pattern to make it out of foam. I can then attach them together and put a small cover strip over the two halfs. It doesn't halve to be super accurate, I just want to make 2 quick ones for http://www.secretcinema.org/

I guess i could always get trace over the Blaxmyth version with foam, I like the original but I also like the furthest on the right. The visor seems like it's come from a motorbike helmet

http://www.facebook.com/l.php?u=htt...ms/userpics/10019/myfleet14sm.jpg&h=uAQGnSRg0
 
Hi, not a newbie but trying armor for first time. I am trying the HD War machine files I found on here. I am in dire need of help scaling the entire thing. I made the cod/lower torso using my scaling and it is HUGE. I am really in need of help. I am not a little guy nor a big guy. I am 5'10" and weigh 230lbs. I have read forums and watched videos to no avail. Can anyone please help me.
 
domead said:
Hi, not a newbie but trying armor for first time. I am trying the HD War machine files I found on here. I am in dire need of help scaling the entire thing. I made the cod/lower torso using my scaling and it is HUGE. I am really in need of help. I am not a little guy nor a big guy. I am 5'10" and weigh 230lbs. I have read forums and watched videos to no avail. Can anyone please help me.
Click to expand...

Those are the two pieces that, without a doubt, will give you the most trouble if you're a bigger guy. My recommendation? Set them out of the way, you might be able to salvage them. And build your chest. Outside of a custom scaling job (essentially having someone make it wider/deeper but not taller in other software) you are going to end up with a bigger piece overall.... But that's not always a bad thing. TRIPLE CHECK point-to-point measurements on the chest build through the bottom area, add an inch (25.4mm) on your own width (close a door on yourself, and then measure lol) and then build from there. Your chest will be a little taller, but it will fit you overall, and you may likely be able to mod your already-finished pieces to work. :thumbsup
 
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