The PEPAKURA question thread - PLEASE READ RULES IN FIRST POST!

[laellee]

I'm suse this has already been posted but when printing out the pieces to be assembled do show flaps need to be on or off?

Flaps (and edge ID) should be on for paper pep.

Hi

I was looking at this video of a guy making a Star Wars clone trooper helmet. He places green tape to where he didn't want the color red, how did he know where these were? I look on google images of clone trooper pepakura files and off course they are fully white, with no colors on it. There were some with colors but still, after the molding ect... How did he know where the colors where, how did he know the right amount of space to put between lines ect...

Thanks
KnightwingNC

You usually have to do it by hand. There are some pep files that include textures, so you could print the peps with texture turned on and try using that for guidance, but it can be a lot of work. I freehand or make my own templates for most pep stuff.

 

[Yul]

Hello everyone I am a new member of this forum, my name is Alessandro, i apologize if I meddle in the speech, I apologize for my English incorrect, I help with the translator, I write from Italy, I recently discovered this forum, I'd like to try out some props, maybe starting Dastar Wars, for example, by the helmet of Darth Vader.
My problem is that having a Mac and not a PC I have no way to open .pdo file, you can find them in .pdf format or compatible with Mac?
Can you help me?
Thank you

 

[SpaceLumberjack]

I'm suse this has already been posted but when printing out the pieces to be assembled do show flaps need to be on or off?

You use the flaps to glue the pieces together, unless you're using foam in which case you can turn them off.

 

[Wheatley]

Hey. I know its just out but its important to stay topical. Has anyone ripped the Advent soldiers from Xcom 2?

 

[Bogleo]

I posted this in another thread, and people seemed to find it helpful, so I figured I'd put it here too.

Usually it goes like this:

1. Card stock pepakura with supports to keep its shape
2. Coat of resin on the outside
3. Remove supports and coat the inside with resin
4. Fiberglass the inside using fiberglass cloth and fiberglass resin (2-3 coats) -OR-
Pour Rondo (Bondo and resin mixed 50/50) on the inside and slush it around instead of the fiberglass (multiple coats)
5. Bondo! (Car body filler) Apply in THIN coats to one section of the helmet at a time, and sand smooth. Repeat ad nauseam. Primer is helpful to spot imperfections by making everything a uniform color.
6. To get rid of the tiny holes and scratches, use spot/glazing/knifing putty.
7. Once it's smooth enough, primer and paint.

Here are some links.

1. Pepakura helmet from start to finish by member Thorssoli http://protagonist4hire.blogspot.com/2012/01/prop-building-101-part-1-building.html
2. Part 1 of a twelve part video series tutorial for a Pepakura helmet https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QIHamhMdYYw
3. Lots of good pepakura videos https://www.youtube.com/user/dghezzo/videos

 

[epoxinator]

I have a couple of questions about Pepakura. I'm a 3D artist and I have made the Arcade Hand from Logan's Run. I've had 3D-printed a 9" and a 16" version. I have a Mac computer, and I have had no luck getting several versions of Winery/Wineskin to get the free version of Pepakura Designer to work: I don't want to get the paid version if I can't even get the free version functional. Anyone else had that same problem? What were your solutions?

Secondly, I want to convert the model to Pepakura because I want to take the output files and use them to have acrylic mirror pieces laser cut to fit, after which I can glue the cut mirror pieces onto the appropriate surfaces of the 3D prints. What sort of conversion needs to be done to the Pepakura files so they can be used for laser-cutting?

Thanks.

 

[epoxinator]

By the way, these are the error messages I get every time I try to open either Pepakura Designer or Pepakura Viewer on my Mac.

 

[epoxinator]

Finally had a breakthrough tonight. Previously I've been putting Wineskin and Pepakura in a folder together. Pepakura just wouldn't open. I happened to copy the Pepakura EXE into the Wineskin folder in Applications. From there it worked right away.

 

[epoxinator]

OK, I've gotten it to work. But now I need to figure out how to get it to import and/or export to the original size of the model.

 

[laellee]

It loads models to the original 'modeled' size automatically (so if it was modeled 20 mm tall, it will load at 20mm tall). What Pepakura ALSO does, though, is assign a scale it deems appropriate when you unfold the model. After you click unfold, you can change the scale to 1 to get the model to unfold the same size as the original model. You can do the same thing to a model that is already unfolded in Pepakura by going to 2d menu>change scale....>scale factor and setting the scale to 1 there.

 

[Hangel87]

Hello friends!
I have just joined and am trying to create a helmet of iron man but I think I have done something wrong. it is all wrong so I wanted to ask you what type of paper used wen assembly your pepakura model? 200g? and what kind of glue? I then use the fiberglass..

thanks to all

 

[undeadmith]

i use something like a 200-220g paper ( mostly like drawing pape) and super glue because i am impatient

after cutting and glueing just use the fiberglass resin ( not the fiberglass) with some hardner on the outside and the inside until all the paper is saturated then fiberglass the inside.
after that bondo that **** up ( thin layer) sand bondo (thin layer) sand and repeat until satisfied then finish up anyway you want

Hello friends!
I have just joined and am trying to create a helmet of iron man but I think I have done something wrong. it is all wrong so I wanted to ask you what type of paper used wen assembly your pepakura model? 200g? and what kind of glue? I then use the fiberglass..

thanks to all

 

[Duke]

I found a pep file that I like but discovered that the bottom edge is slightly cut off when printed from Pepakura Viewer 3. Short of purchasing the full version of the viewer, is there a way to modify the print area of the file? I looked at all the settings and came up empty.

 

[laellee]

I found a pep file that I like but discovered that the bottom edge is slightly cut off when printed from Pepakura Viewer 3. Short of purchasing the full version of the viewer, is there a way to modify the print area of the file? I looked at all the settings and came up empty.

You can actually download Pepakura Designer and try that free of charge and try that; the free version has save and export functions disabled.

 

[Duke]

You can actually download Pepakura Designer and try that free of charge and try that; the free version has save and export functions disabled.

The Pepakura Designer has the options I was looking for. Thanks!

 

[Traiturr]

Hey,
This has been getting me mad for the past few hours.
When select and move tool is chosen, there's a rotation handle in the 2D view in SOME files only. It's really handy and I'm trying to enable it in my own files ..

 

[agent911]

Hi, anyone who can tell me what cardstock (110lbs) would be in metric? I was also wondering, do you have to directly print out the pieces using the pepakura viewer program, or can you print theme as pdf and the mesurements will still be the same?

 

[RocFoamArmory]

Hi, anyone who can tell me what cardstock (110lbs) would be in metric? I was also wondering, do you have to directly print out the pieces using the pepakura viewer program, or can you print theme as pdf and the mesurements will still be the same?

I can't say for sure, but it is pretty stiff cardstock paper. I'd imagine any similar paper would do , as long as it fits through the printer I would highly recommend printing from pepakura viewer or even the designer. It's helpful especially if you need to scale things. Plus it's free, so why not?

 

[RocFoamArmory]

I'll definitely try out mat next time since I had a few delaminations on my other pep pieces. Thanks for the huge help! :thumbsup

Either cloth or mat are fine if you are using layers. It depends on how rough you are with the armor. I do one layer of cloth and resin on the inside, and a couple of coats of resin on the outside. Then I kicked the helmet around the driveway and it survived. I wouldn't worry too much about the strength of your armor. And another issue is weight; if you're going to wear it to a convention or such, fiberglass and resin can get fairly heavy to carry for hours.

- - - Updated - - -

I'm suse this has already been posted but when printing out the pieces to be assembled do show flaps need to be on or off?

You should definitely have the flaps on if you're doing pep, since this is what you use to glue two pieces together. For foam, you don't want the flaps on.

 

[mrwhite]

sorry for the bother but is there anyone who knows how to make a shield made from EVA foam ?