The PEPAKURA question thread - PLEASE READ RULES IN FIRST POST!

I know it's not the easiest way to do things but I have a work flow that works for me...or has until recently. I'm cutting Pepakura files with a Cricut Expression and an old version of Make the Cut (Open .PDO in Pepakura Designer-Export as .EMF-Import .EMF into Inkscape-Save as PDF-Import PDF into Make The Cut-and cut) It works and has always scaled right in Pepakura Designer 3.0.36 on my ancient laptop. It would be nice to work from my main computer which has Version 3.1.8a but every time I export the .EMF and import it into Inkscape, the image is too large by almost double. Is there something different in V3.1.8a or am I missing a sizing or resolution setting or something?
 
americannamor said:
I know it's not the easiest way to do things but I have a work flow that works for me...or has until recently. I'm cutting Pepakura files with a Cricut Expression and an old version of Make the Cut (Open .PDO in Pepakura Designer-Export as .EMF-Import .EMF into Inkscape-Save as PDF-Import PDF into Make The Cut-and cut) It works and has always scaled right in Pepakura Designer 3.0.36 on my ancient laptop. It would be nice to work from my main computer which has Version 3.1.8a but every time I export the .EMF and import it into Inkscape, the image is too large by almost double. Is there something different in V3.1.8a or am I missing a sizing or resolution setting or something?
Click to expand...

I can't speak for what is causing your problems now, but there are several free programs out there that will allow you to 'print' to a PDF file. I think the one I got was called bullzip, but what it essentially does is makes your computer think that this software is another installed printer. You print as you would normally, but choosing this virtual bullzip printer as your selected printer, and it just saves it out as a PDF. So technically you would only have to install that software, virtual print using bullzip (or whatever software), and then you'd have your PDFs. Just a thought.
 
laellee said:
I can't speak for what is causing your problems now, but there are several free programs out there that will allow you to 'print' to a PDF file. I think the one I got was called bullzip, but what it essentially does is makes your computer think that this software is another installed printer. You print as you would normally, but choosing this virtual bullzip printer as your selected printer, and it just saves it out as a PDF. So technically you would only have to install that software, virtual print using bullzip (or whatever software), and then you'd have your PDFs. Just a thought.
Click to expand...
Oh, jeez Thanks! That might work and actually save me the step of having to open the files in Inkscape before I open them in Make the Cut. I'm printing a test to see if the size is right but it looks like I can just Print to .PDF in Pepakura Designer(as long as Print & Paper settings are set to *Print lines Clearly(Vector Print)) and open the .PDF directly in Make the Cut. I swear I tried saving .PDFs from Pepakura like that before but I bet I had it set for Bitmap print and it wouldn't read in Make the Cut.
 
americannamor said:
Oh, jeez Thanks! That might work and actually save me the step of having to open the files in Inkscape before I open them in Make the Cut. I'm printing a test to see if the size is right but it looks like I can just Print to .PDF in Pepakura Designer(as long as Print & Paper settings are set to *Print lines Clearly(Vector Print)) and open the .PDF directly in Make the Cut. I swear I tried saving .PDFs from Pepakura like that before but I bet I had it set for Bitmap print and it wouldn't read in Make the Cut.
Click to expand...
Nevermind. It does import into Make the Cut at the correct size but the dashed fold lines turn into solid cut lines...even though they look dashed when you open it in a PDF viewer. I'll have to look at it better tomorrow.
 
dexter74 said:
Guys, I need an advise.

I have pdo model, empty inside. I have to make some kind of frame, skeleton for external shell.

How to do this?
Click to expand...

I used aluminum foil. If you need bigger, use cardboard from a box.
This really depends how big your project is. I also sometimes use 2-3 layers of paper on my pep files, and I put scotch tape over the pep.
 
Damn, maybe my explanation is to weak, sorry for my English.

I mean - how to make frame based on pdo file (of helmet shell).
I have to make some kind of file, then print, then make paper frame, which be base for shell.

Why? I made shell of top part, but i have problems with shape and ovality.
 
This stuff reynolds.jpgUsed for cooking, multiple layers of this can be rolled into a ball, an oval, it will hold it's shape. You can also use wire to make a skeletal shape.
 
Get a friend. Someone you TRUST.
Cover your head with plastic wrap making sure you have a hole to breath through. Breathing is important.
Use heavy duty packing tape in small pieces, apply to get the size and shape of the head.
DON'T make it too tight, you need to be able to cut it off. Alternatively, you could make a front and back and attach them.
Instead of packing tape, plaster coated cheese cloth works (aka Rigid Wrap, may have other names) and more layers equates to more stability.

I once had a duplicate of my whole body made from see through plastic.
 
Hey guys, I have a question. My pepakura piece (a forearm) has 2 layers of resin and 2 layers of fiberglass. It's already rigid enough but is it rigid enough for bondo? When I squeeze it really hard with my hands, the forearm flexes a little. Should I add another layer of fiberglass? Resin? Or should I just fiberglass the edges to keep it light?
 
recklessjes said:
Hey guys, I have a question. My pepakura piece (a forearm) has 2 layers of resin and 2 layers of fiberglass. It's already rigid enough but is it rigid enough for bondo? When I squeeze it really hard with my hands, the forearm flexes a little. Should I add another layer of fiberglass? Resin? Or should I just fiberglass the edges to keep it light?
Click to expand...

I'd say good enough, and go with the bondo. I almost always settled on two layers of fiberglass/resin, and it worked for me. If you're still nervous about the flexing possibly cracking your bondo, then you can use bondo-glass, or one of the other body fillers out there that has fiberglass strand added to it as well. It can take a lot more flexing than regular bondo, but be warned that it is also A LOT HARDER TO SAND. :) If you are really clean with your application, it's not a big deal, but if you get sloppy then forget it :lol
 
laellee said:
I'd say good enough, and go with the bondo. I almost always settled on two layers of fiberglass/resin, and it worked for me. If you're still nervous about the flexing possibly cracking your bondo, then you can use bondo-glass, or one of the other body fillers out there that has fiberglass strand added to it as well. It can take a lot more flexing than regular bondo, but be warned that it is also A LOT HARDER TO SAND. :) If you are really clean with your application, it's not a big deal, but if you get sloppy then forget it :lol
Click to expand...
Thanks for the suggestion laellee! I think I should stick with regular bondo for now because I've never really used it before :lol but I'll keep the bondoglass in mind just in case I need it.

Btw, do you use fiberglass cloth or mat? Or a combination of both? I've heard of people putting mat first since it's stronger then cloth since it's a lot smoother...
 
I use mat for the most part, it lays really well for me and just conforms to complex curves and edges a lot better. It's also easier for me to build up stress areas because of this, and I've had less problems with delamination (separation of layers) than with cloth. Part of those problems were originally bad prep on my part :)
 
Hi

I was looking at this video of a guy making a Star Wars clone trooper helmet. He places green tape to where he didn't want the color red, how did he know where these were? I look on google images of clone trooper pepakura files and off course they are fully white, with no colors on it. There were some with colors but still, after the molding ect... How did he know where the colors where, how did he know the right amount of space to put between lines ect...

Thanks
KnightwingNC
 
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