Outside. The bondo is only being used to level, smooth, clarify and sharpen details, not for strength. :thumbsup
The PEPAKURA question thread - PLEASE READ RULES IN FIRST POST!
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Outside. The bondo is only being used to level, smooth, clarify and sharpen details, not for strength. :thumbsup
pepenthusiast
New Member
Thanks was just confused as everyone seems to have a black interior but mine will be orange from the fiberglass/resin
Klaudia945
New Member
I don't work much with Pepakura so far, so I have question to more experienced people. I want to do Hound's helm from Game Of Thrones. And I wonder if it is possible to do project of this helm in pepakura, or I will have to sculpt all helm from the beginning?
Or maybe someone already share his project of this helm?
Or maybe someone already share his project of this helm?
tabstotherescue
New Member
I am looking to find a Dragon Age templar pep file, but it doesn't seem to have been done? I can't even find other cosplayers who have attempted this.
Does anyone know where I could find a pep file or if someone wants to try to create one?
This is the costume:
Does anyone know where I could find a pep file or if someone wants to try to create one?
This is the costume:
Hey guys I am brand new to pepakura and after reading through all 64 pages of this thread I still don't have a great understanding of what people are talking about when they say slush casting. In my world slush casting was dipping a wax form into a ceramic slurry to make a mold for metal casting, is there someone that could explain it a little or point me towards a tutorial?
Re: Pepakura Tutorial
If you google it, you'll eventually find what you need. But I can give you a short version. Only print on card stock. Preferably 110 lb, which refers to it's durability. But not every brand has the same thickness, so buy a couple different brands, and try to find the stiffest one you can. It will save a lot of work in the end if you don't have to fix places where the paper buckled under the weight of the resin. If you have a normal printer that rolls the paper from a lower tray, you may be out of luck. The card stock has a tendency to jam something horrible in those. If you have a printer that feeds from the back, you should be ok.
Cut the parts out with a blade you are comfortable with, I suggest an X-acto knife, and if you can find it one with a reinforced carbide edge. Stays sharp longer. And make sure you have a self-repairing cutting mat thing. Saves the blade and your tables. For glue, Aleene's Tacky Glue is awesome. Stays moist long enough for precise positioning, dries strong, and wipes off your hands with no issues. Superglue is just a mess if you get it on your fingers.
Once you have your pep finished, it's time to reinforce. You can sometimes get some added durability from spraying a clear coat on the paper to stiffen it up. Then, You want to take some craft sticks, and reinforce any points on the pep that might buckle.just build a nice solid support structure with those and a high temp hot glue gun. Once you have it solid, coat the outside in 2 thin coats of resin. I had help with this, so I don't know EXACTLY what kind it was, but it was a 2 part clear resin with 4:1 chemical ratio. You should have 10ish minutes of work time, so take a large, cheap brush and brush it all over. Try to get an even coat, but if it globs up you can always sand it down or take a dremel to it.
This is where techniques start to vary. Some people line the inside with resin and fiberglass, but this can be messy and a bit of a pain. The method I learned was to take a standard 2 part plastic, and slush cast the inside. This is done by mixing whatever chemical you use, pouring some in, and just rolling the piece around to coat the inside. However I learned this for a helmet, so if you're not making a helmet you can disregard and just go back to the fiberglass.
After you have your piece reinforced, sand off whatever pieces need to be sanded down, and start coating in bondo. Bondo work time with vary depending on how much catalyst you mix in, so be prepared to have leftover. Just smear it on the piece, trying to keep it smooth and even, and then let cure. Sand down, and reapply as needed until you have the shape right. At this point most people would make a mold and cast the piece in plastic, but that is another thing altogether. Sorry I couldn't be as specific on some parts, hope this helps.
If you google it, you'll eventually find what you need. But I can give you a short version. Only print on card stock. Preferably 110 lb, which refers to it's durability. But not every brand has the same thickness, so buy a couple different brands, and try to find the stiffest one you can. It will save a lot of work in the end if you don't have to fix places where the paper buckled under the weight of the resin. If you have a normal printer that rolls the paper from a lower tray, you may be out of luck. The card stock has a tendency to jam something horrible in those. If you have a printer that feeds from the back, you should be ok.
Cut the parts out with a blade you are comfortable with, I suggest an X-acto knife, and if you can find it one with a reinforced carbide edge. Stays sharp longer. And make sure you have a self-repairing cutting mat thing. Saves the blade and your tables. For glue, Aleene's Tacky Glue is awesome. Stays moist long enough for precise positioning, dries strong, and wipes off your hands with no issues. Superglue is just a mess if you get it on your fingers.
Once you have your pep finished, it's time to reinforce. You can sometimes get some added durability from spraying a clear coat on the paper to stiffen it up. Then, You want to take some craft sticks, and reinforce any points on the pep that might buckle.just build a nice solid support structure with those and a high temp hot glue gun. Once you have it solid, coat the outside in 2 thin coats of resin. I had help with this, so I don't know EXACTLY what kind it was, but it was a 2 part clear resin with 4:1 chemical ratio. You should have 10ish minutes of work time, so take a large, cheap brush and brush it all over. Try to get an even coat, but if it globs up you can always sand it down or take a dremel to it.
This is where techniques start to vary. Some people line the inside with resin and fiberglass, but this can be messy and a bit of a pain. The method I learned was to take a standard 2 part plastic, and slush cast the inside. This is done by mixing whatever chemical you use, pouring some in, and just rolling the piece around to coat the inside. However I learned this for a helmet, so if you're not making a helmet you can disregard and just go back to the fiberglass.
After you have your piece reinforced, sand off whatever pieces need to be sanded down, and start coating in bondo. Bondo work time with vary depending on how much catalyst you mix in, so be prepared to have leftover. Just smear it on the piece, trying to keep it smooth and even, and then let cure. Sand down, and reapply as needed until you have the shape right. At this point most people would make a mold and cast the piece in plastic, but that is another thing altogether. Sorry I couldn't be as specific on some parts, hope this helps.
Re: Pepakura Tutorial
Thanks, that is what I was assuming they were talking about but I wanted to make sure.
Thanks, that is what I was assuming they were talking about but I wanted to make sure.
obiwan kowalski
Well-Known Member
I just discovered the use of a silicone basting brush to apply fiberglass resin to a pepakura project (not my idea but I read about it somewhere). After the resin cures the resin can be broken off, leaving you with a perfectly good brush for the next coat of resin. Has anyone ever used silicone gloves as well so they could reuse the gloves? I was thinking about this because I tend to make a mess but more importantly, disposable gloves like to rip and tear while I work and a heavier glove would be more durable. Any thoughts?
Merelite18
New Member
Question?
Hi can anyone with good pep expiernce tell me how they would harden 75lb card stock without warping the project? I would like to use titebond 3 woood glue.at the time I didn't realize how thin the paper was
Hi can anyone with good pep expiernce tell me how they would harden 75lb card stock without warping the project? I would like to use titebond 3 woood glue.at the time I didn't realize how thin the paper was
5C077Y1988
New Member
Hey guys, I'm soon to model my first set of armor and I wondering if its better to model it like sheets of paper or for all the parts to be modeled with thickness? Which is the way to go for unfolding to a pep or do they do the same job just as easy?
You don't want to add any wall thickness into your model (as you would if you were going to 3d print the piece), you want to model (if I'm understanding what you mean) 'like sheets of paper'. Armor pieces are typically a single 'skin' of pieces, and are not water-tight manifolds ( they have holes/openings unlike models for 3d printing). Hope that helps.
5C077Y1988
New Member
Thanks, that does answer my question =)
Hey guys I'm a big noob in pep but I was considering a free hand attempt at this beauty. So before I even pick up some tools I was wondering If anyone had any files for this beautiful spidey armor? Thank you very much in advance.View attachment 293089
View attachment 293090
maybe this could help you ^^
View attachment 286877
Splitted: Darhood's_Spider-Man_Armor (EotE) (Pep) - Download - 4shared - Elvis Dunkly
All-in-one: Darhood's_Spider-Man_Armor (all) - Download - 4shared - Elvis Dunkly
Attachments
i got this model sometime ago and worked on it ... if i find a little bit time i will finish it... so maybe you can use this files ^^
berserkergnome
New Member
Hey guys, got a quick question. I am pretty new to working with pep and I am working on a stormtrooper armor for my son. I am trying to figure out a way to finish the armor. This is going to be just a one or two use costume since he is going like a weed so I don't see the need to do the full fiberglass and bondo for the armor. I am thinking of just doing wood glue method i saw on the 405th website or maybe even just trying to use the liquid green stuff i have from doing my modeling to fill some of the major gaps and then just some light clear coat paint to harden it up a bit and then final paint on the pieces.
Any one got any other ideas for a single time use armor that can still look decent?
Any one got any other ideas for a single time use armor that can still look decent?
Well, you're kind of in luck. The nature of Stormtrooper armor means it'll be almost entirely white, and there is no better color for hiding surface imperfections. You could try going with the wood glue method, but I think you'd be satisfied the most with just resining the pieces and forgoing the bondo/fiberglass cloth steps. A resin coat on the outside, coat on the inside, and then maybe another coat (either side) just to give the walls a little extra strength. That'd be certainly durable enough for a couple of wearings, and you always have the option of adding fiberglass mat and resin later (or handing it off/selling to someone else with kids).
The armor won't be perfect of course, but with a good coat of primer and white, it will get the job done. Good luck on this!
berserkergnome
New Member
Thanks, i would just have to find a place where i could use the resin. We live in an apartment and cant have the fumes floating around.
ianaconda
New Member
Hello guys its my first time so i have some questions ^^
I am from egypt and here i can't find resin so what can i do to make the paper hard enough for car filler ? a lot of pva/white glue coats ?? or something else ? or pva/white glue plus Napkins?
and i cant find a fiber glass too
i only found a fiber glass self adhesive tape so is that works or not ?
thanks a lot
I am from egypt and here i can't find resin so what can i do to make the paper hard enough for car filler ? a lot of pva/white glue coats ?? or something else ? or pva/white glue plus Napkins?
and i cant find a fiber glass too
thanks a lot
