The Noisy Cricket Build

[robotprops]

Do you have a pic of the LED kit and momentary switch? It's usually quite simple. Red to red, black to black. Typically the switch is put inline on the black. I imagine its all pretty small for this.
Looking at your pictures, it looks like he's given a recess behind the trigger for the switch and then a channel for wiring to snake down into the grips where it looks like you can hide two button cell batteries.

 

[JOATRASH FX]

Solder will not polish and will turn grey after time.

If you use pure-tin solder it will polish up nicely. A few years ago I cast up some pistol from Firefly (Jubal Early) and the problem with pewter/tin is that it's extremely hard to cast smoothly. You always get that 'rough' surface unless you can spin cast. So I had to do a lot of spot filling.

A problem like that CAN be fixed with solder, but you need to apply heat very carefully. With pewter (a mix of tin, copper and sometimes lead) it's not a question of 'going soft' before melting... it goes instantly and you don't have much warning.

What I did was apply a small hand torch to the spot that needed fixing- this will 'flash heat' a small area and not the entire piece. But the cricket barrel is such a small part... maybe try 'globbing' some tin to the tip of a soldering iron and use it as a 'brush' to fill in the gap. It's hard to recommend a method, wince it's delicate... and it CAN be easily ruined completely.

 

[McKeePhoto]

Do you have a pic of the LED kit and momentary switch? It's usually quite simple. Red to red, black to black. Typically the switch is put inline on the black. I imagine its all pretty small for this.
Looking at your pictures, it looks like he's given a recess behind the trigger for the switch and then a channel for wiring to snake down into the grips where it looks like you can hide two button cell batteries.

I will snap a pic of it when I get back on the workbench this weekend.

I really need to learn about this electronic stuff! My brain kinda freezes up on it. Sheesh.

 

[McKeePhoto]

If you use pure-tin solder it will polish up nicely.

I’ve got some solder around here somewhere. I’ll have to check how pure it is. Another thing to try this weekend!

 

[McKeePhoto]

Do you have a pic of the LED kit and momentary switch? It's usually quite simple. Red to red, black to black. Typically the switch is put inline on the black. I imagine its all pretty small for this.
Looking at your pictures, it looks like he's given a recess behind the trigger for the switch and then a channel for wiring to snake down into the grips where it looks like you can hide two button cell batteries.

The switch does fit! Or close enough that I can do a little sanding and trim the trip lever a bit...

Is this what you were talking about in terms of wiring it up?

And, one last stupid question: button batteries: does it matter what size? What voltage am I going for?

 

[McKeePhoto]

If you use pure-tin solder it will polish up nicely.

I have some lead free solder and some sn60/pb40 solder that I think was left behind from a previous home owner. I am guessing the sn60/pb40 is not pure tin, as it has lead in it, according to the googles. I also have pure silver solder, which I think is going the wrong direction entirely.

Does the lead free stuff look like it may work?

Yea, I know it isn't an exact science, so I am not gonna hold anyone to it. But, should I avoid this stuff and get some new solder?

 

[Win7ermute]

The switch does fit! Or close enough that I can do a little sanding and trim the trip lever a bit...




Is this what you were talking about in terms of wiring it up?

And, one last stupid question: button batteries: does it matter what size? What voltage am I going for?

2032's are pretty standard. Not sure if they will fit in those holes ?

 

[Win7ermute]

Did this run not come with any instructions ? Sorry for the double post.

 

[robotprops]

The switch does fit! Or close enough that I can do a little sanding and trim the trip lever a bit...

View attachment 1041656


Is this what you were talking about in terms of wiring it up?

And, one last stupid question: button batteries: does it matter what size? What voltage am I going for?View attachment 1041657

I think you’ve got it.

The long pole on the led is the positive.
Run that red to the switch and then off the switch to the positive pole on the battery holder.
Jump to the next battery holder by going from negative to positive on the second battery.
Then go from the negative back to the LED.

I can only assume the LED they supplied has a built in resistor.
It should run fine on 2 -1.5v batteries. The physical size will be determined by what holders fit in the recesses.

I hope this helps.

 

[robotprops]

You’ve drawn up a parallel circuit which could work, but you’ll only get 1.5v out of the batteries. I’ve suggested a series circuit.

As for filling those parts with solder, I would try silver solder. It’s used in jewelry making, is stronger and can be polished up quite nicely.

 

[McKeePhoto]

. I’ve suggested a series circuit.

I would try silver solder.

Okey doke! I will give it a try after sourcing a couple of battery holders this weekend.

Thank you for your help!

 

[McKeePhoto]

Did this run not come with any instructions ? Sorry for the double post.

According to the project run, one is in the works. However, my experience with these kinds of kits is that some have them and some are more diy.

The kit was really quite reasonably priced, imho. And relatively simple... if one knows what one is doing.

Obviously, I really don’t know what I am doing. But, I am digging the process and everyone here is so helpful and skilled!

 

[McKeePhoto]

Ok, the battery holders I got were too big. I thought a 3v 1220 would do the trick, but the opening is about a half inch and the holders are a little under 5/8”.

So time to source a smaller battery.

I don’t want to remove any more material from the frame.

 

[McKeePhoto]

Started attempting the filler and almost blew the whole project!

I got some 99% tin solder and heated up the iron... and promptly melted a third of the way thru the gun tip.

I learned that I needed the iron just hot enough to melt a bead of solder on the tip.

Then I wiped the tip across the gap, where the solder pretty much instantly solidified.

Now, to go back to the files for shaping.

Hope the solder actually sticks!

 

[McKeePhoto]

Ok, a couple quick notes:

Yes, the solder sometimes doesn’t adhere to the surface. Do over!

And, yes, this metal conducts heat very quickly.

 

[eethan]

oh man... that looks complex, I hope you can make it work. good luck!

 

[McKeePhoto]

Thanks, eethan.

The electronics part, I am told, is simple. Not that I have done that part yet.

However, the finish part is pretty simple, too. It just takes a bucketful of patience!

One of the larger gaps took 4 times to fill it.

The first time, I went too fast and the solder just fell off.

2-4 were built up in layers. Solder, file. Add more solder to the places I missed, file. Solder in the spot I accidentally filed off. File again.

But it really only took about a hour total, even with my screw ups.

A little 220, 500, 1000, and 0000 steel wool...

Before...

View attachment 1042504

After!

 

[Rymo]

Thanks, eethan.

The electronics part, I am told, is simple. Not that I have done that part yet.

However, the finish part is pretty simple, too. It just takes a bucketful of patience!

One of the larger gaps took 4 times to fill it.

The first time, I went too fast and the solder just fell off.

2-4 were built up in layers. Solder, file. Add more solder to the places I missed, file. Solder in the spot I accidentally filed off. File again.

But it really only took about a hour total, even with my screw ups.

A little 220, 500, 1000, and 0000 steel wool...

Before...

View attachment 1042504

After!

View attachment 1042503

That's looking great! Nice job filling in those imperfections.

 

[Duncanator]

Nice work on the metal filling and filing!
My guess is that the LED needs 3 volts, so you may want to run the batteries in series if they are 1.5vt.
If you use 3vt batteries, you can go with just one, or run two in parallel to get more play time before you need to change 'em out.

 

[eethan]

great! you managed to fill the holes, that's awesome, congrats!