Re: STUDIO SCALE TIE FIGHTER **UPDATED PICS**
Alan,
You're awesome bro!
J
Any info you can pass along as to the wing construction would be great. Template wise etc..
No prob. Let's see...I never did make any templates. In fact, long story short, I cut each piece of styrene sheet for the wings custom for the wingstars I'd paired up for each side. ILM has a grand tradition of asymmetry, and I saw no reason to deviate. Congrats on your kit, btw. I had to remove about half the height on each spar/spoke on each wingstar in my kit to get the correct appearance on the wings. I tried to keep a consistent height of 3.0 mm. Looks like the newer kits are good to go out of the box. Cool.
Anyway, you need to select which version of the TIE you want to do, ANH or ESB, because it affects the wing construction. The H-channel on the ESB's rests on the tips of the stars. However, on ANH the wingstar spars/spokes extend all the way out to the outer edge of the H-channel. That variable governs the dims of the styrene sheet. Also, don't forget that the styrene is inserted inside the H-channel, so you need to carefully measure the depth of the channel to get the right dims. I'll say it right now: I screwed up my first set of styrene inner wings. LOL
Once you have all of those components sized and cut, test fit and are happy, then you can use paper to trace each of the 24 templates to cut the Koolshade. This may seem like a lot of unnecessary work, but if you blow it with the Koolshade, you're done: there's only enough material to do 2 wings. Now, when you lay out the templates on the Koolshade, you also need to make sure that the pattern is running consistent - that is, parallel to the outer edge of the wing. I photographed a real TIE to attempt to determine if the shades are up or down, relative to the wing's edge. I forget which way it goes.
Test fit. Test fit. Test fit. And then, test fit some more. I used 5 minute epoxy on mine, and after about a year, I had 2 spars/spokes lift off the Koolshade - they wanted to return to their cast position. So, on the advice of REL I injected some CA and it bonded quite nicely. Epoxy is tough because it wants to "squish" and ooze out from under the spokes if applied with a heavy hand. Less is more. If I had it to do again, I'd try CA first. Oh, make sure you paint your styrene sheets before you fix the Koolshade to the styrene.
That's about all I can think of off the top of my head. I used rare earth magnets to attach the wings to the pylons. Never had any trouble with them and mine has been on display since December 2006!
Sounds like Steve has made some improvements, so I will be anxiously waiting to see more Hero buildups. I gotta tell ya, I cringe looking at the pics of mine, now. This wasn't originally intended to be a kit. Gotta give props to Steve for taking it on and refining it over the years. It was a hell of a job! I wouldn't have had 2 sticks to rub together, otherwise. That said, I'd love to scratch a one-off someday. I have many of the donor kits. But, I have so many SW subjects to finish it will probably never happen. The Nice-N Hero is an impressive finished model.
Good luck Jamie, and everyone else! Let's see some buildup threads...