Studio Half Scale TOS Enterprise Scratch build

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It occurred to me too late to suggest this, but I wondered Steve if painting the wooden support inside the hulls and the innards white as well wouldn't help create a little bounce/fill for the LEDS? Might make the LEDS lighting a tad more even if those lights aren't right up against the windows like I was thinking you were going to do to start with.
 
Over all the main electronic component to this model is the lights. At 12 volts I'll have to use different resistors and deal with the heat from them. At 4.5 there is little heat. The 12 volt is only for the motors.

Thanks Scott I'll get back to you soon about that!

Steve
 
It occurred to me too late to suggest this, but I wondered Steve if painting the wooden support inside the hulls and the innards white as well wouldn't help create a little bounce/fill for the LEDS? Might make the LEDS lighting a tad more even if those lights aren't right up against the windows like I was thinking you were going to do to start with.

The whole inside of he hull parts are white. And placing the lights right against the windows looked bad. It will take 30 lights in the lower hull to spread things out those in the picture are only 4 lights so far.

Steve
 
The whole inside of he hull parts are white. And placing the lights right against the windows looked bad. It will take 30 lights in the lower hull to spread things out those in the picture are only 4 lights so far.

Steve
Dumb question - why not a lightstrip of some kind? Would save a lot of soldering for you. :)
 
Light strips are fine but I'm not sure they make the warm white and I need to be able to control the brightness of an LED with the appropriate resistor. Hard to do with light strips I would imagine. I tend to stick with what has worked for me in the past. That and Randy has never steered me wrong and is always there for me by phone if I get a snag.

Steve
 
I might have missed that the inside of the secondary hull was white, my last memory in the video was of it primer grey. I just meant if the plywood supports has say a coat of white Krylon or some such then it would all be like the inside of a photographers soft-box light, defusing it all even more evenly. If that make sense. Or maybe I'm ahead of myself. Or ahead of yourself. It's a Monday after all. I've never gotten the hang of Mondays.

The only thing that tempers my want to see this finished is I will be sorry that these little video visits will be over. Can't we get some LA volunteers to help Steve make his garage into "This Old Model" and just watch him build more stuff once the Big E is done? I mean I've never seen Norm Abram able to build something awesome with one hand while he had to run the video himself!

I love this project Steve!
 
Thanks Scott I'll get back to you soon about that!

Steve

Take your time Steve, this huge model is a real masterpiece...you must be so very busy!

Would this model be studio scale to the filming prop used in DS9: Trials and Tribble-ations ? Looks to be near the same size, and the half scale size makes sense for television production...


File:DS9 Producers & Enterprise model.jpg - Memory Alpha, the Star Trek Wiki

I wonder why they made TOS prop just over 11 feet in the first place..
 
Steve,

Always a pleasure watching your build. Would you know what RPM the motor turns that rotate inside the ends of the nacelles? I might have a suggestion for a motor I might know where to get that only needs around 4.5 -1.5 volts to run it. It might help keep heat down and they are long lasting. I could check into it if you like.
 
The original small filming model was 33 inches long. They made the big model 4 times that size, or exactly 11 feet. The actual size of the big model is not exactly 11 feet, but that was the idea.

Scott
 
Steve,

Just a quick comment on your philosophy about lighting models...

I couldn't agree more about subduing the internal lighting. Too many models end up being table lamps! Along with scaling paint, so should the lighting to match the scale of the subject.

Just to share a little, here's a 22" cut-a-way I did over 10 years ago fully lit.

Top
Star Trek :: TOS Enterprise picture by Tracy_Mann - Photobucket

Starboard side

Star Trek :: Side22"TOS E - Side View picture by Tracy_Mann - Photobucket

I'm not afraid to admit that my biggest weakness in modeling - when I decide to go for it - is my electronics knowlege. I used a very old aftermarket lighting kit intended for the 18" kit. I think it worked out terrific scale-wise for the 22" kit.

Enjoying the school house videos Steve. Would have liked to seen more of your electrical work, but you have enough on your plate. LOL

I for one can not imagine holding a video cam while building a model for hours on end. Your efforts are truely appreciated.

Tracy
 
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Steve,

Always a pleasure watching your build. Would you know what RPM the motor turns that rotate inside the ends of the nacelles? I might have a suggestion for a motor I might know where to get that only needs around 4.5 -1.5 volts to run it. It might help keep heat down and they are long lasting. I could check into it if you like.

Thanks very much but if you go back a bunch of pages you'll see I have the motors already. They are perfect in speed and low amp draw. Thanks again.

The original small filming model was 33 inches long. They made the big model 4 times that size, or exactly 11 feet. The actual size of the big model is not exactly 11 feet, but that was the idea.


Scott

Hey Scott!

Steve,

Just a quick comment on your philosophy about lighting models...

I couldn't agree more about subduing the internal lighting. Too many models end up being table lamps! Along with scaling paint, so should the lighting to match the scale of the subject.

Just to share a little, here's a 22" cut-a-way I did over 10 years ago fully lit.

Top
Star Trek :: TOS Enterprise picture by Tracy_Mann - Photobucket

Starboard side

Star Trek :: Side22"TOS E - Side View picture by Tracy_Mann - Photobucket

I'm not afraid to admit that my biggest weakness in modeling - when I decide to go for it - is my electronics knowlege. I used a very old aftermarket lighting kit intended for the 18" kit. I think it worked out terrific scale-wise for the 22" kit.

Enjoying the school house videos Steve. Would have liked to seen more of your electrical work, but you have enough on your plate. LOL

I for one can not imagine holding a video cam while building a model for hours on end. Your efforts are truely appreciated.

Tracy

You are so very welcome and thanks for the kind words. You did a great job on the 22 inch and the lighting. There's not much to show just a bunch of 220 ohm resistors and a bunch of LEDS. The boards are for locating the resistors grouped on the driver board.
 
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Great news John..

Now catchup...LOL

I'm cutting windows friday. Dental clear acylic should be here friday as well..
Good luck John..

As always thanks Steve..
download
 
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