Stormtrooper start to finish
- Thread starter Clutch
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Clutch
Master Member
Mini-tip for the day:
NOVUS plastic polish #2 will bring a shine to your ABS suit like never before. Just using #1 alone did not work and actually seemed to dull the armor even more. #2 is a fine scratch remover, but do not let the name fool you. Use it like you would use wax. Wipe it on and then buff with a soft cloth.
NOVUS plastic polish #2 will bring a shine to your ABS suit like never before. Just using #1 alone did not work and actually seemed to dull the armor even more. #2 is a fine scratch remover, but do not let the name fool you. Use it like you would use wax. Wipe it on and then buff with a soft cloth.
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Clutch
Master Member
I can't say for sure on the TE as I've never had the pleasure of examining a set firsthand. :cry Is it the styrene set? I seem to recall more people painting their TE's for accuracy's sake. The GF ABS isn't that milky white that you see in the movie. I've heard it described as more of a blueish-white for lack of a better term. Any TE owners care to chime in? Lynn, Josh?
Poseidon11
Member
Clutch, have you had success with putting boots on your mannequin? I have a pair of Cheng boots size 10 and a mannequin pretty similiar to yours and I'm having a hell of a time.
Clutch
Master Member
Oh, the mannequin....the mannequin. That will be a project in and of itself. For one thing, because I have to use the rod that sticks into the back of his leg, he stands too close to it and there won't be enough room for his boot. So what I plan on doing is this:
1) Either replace or extend the rod so that it a) doesn't sit as close to the foot and B) goes into the back of his knee (so it doesn't interfere with the shin armor)
2) Cut his feet off at the ankles and add steel pins embedded in plaster so that I can put his feet in the boots and then stick them on his legs. If need be, I will replace his feet with wooden blocks or something. That might be a better solution.
3) I also plan on cutting his left arm at the elbow to give it freedom of movement.
4) I plan on replacing the hands with poseable ones.
1) Either replace or extend the rod so that it a) doesn't sit as close to the foot and B) goes into the back of his knee (so it doesn't interfere with the shin armor)
2) Cut his feet off at the ankles and add steel pins embedded in plaster so that I can put his feet in the boots and then stick them on his legs. If need be, I will replace his feet with wooden blocks or something. That might be a better solution.
3) I also plan on cutting his left arm at the elbow to give it freedom of movement.
4) I plan on replacing the hands with poseable ones.
Studio Stasis
Sr Member
Yeah, you would have to paint the TE matte styrene kit. I know there are other threads where they have gone into suggestions for paint types, but Rustoleum Gloss White seems to be the stuff to use. I have toyed with having an auto shop paint one of my suits but there is just no point. If you plan to troop in a painted suit, the paint unfortunately takes a beating. However, after seeing the new DVDs and handling a screen used ANH helmet, it is certain that these suits did get marked and scuffed on set. I figure it just adds character and authenticity. I would like to paint a TE suit and just display it though, with no danger of scratching it all up. That would just be nice to have for display.
So, thanks for starting this thread as I have a trooper kit that I have to complete myself. I will definitely go about it carefully, now that I have seen some of your mistakes. I haven't gotten around to doing mine and it has sat in a plastic bin for months now. I REALLY want to take my time on it but I know how I am with this stuff. I will definitely find myself rushing it if I am not careful. Good job on your ABS suit clutch.
Josh
Clutch
Master Member
Thanks for the TE tip Josh. I'd be an absolute nervous wreck working on a set of TE!! I'm having a hard enough time with this GF stuff. I decided early on not to gloss coat it (my building experience, that is) so that people would learn from my mistakes as well as my successes.
It makes logical sense, at least to me, to start at the feet and work your way up when building the armor. It seems that the placement of each piece depends on the previous one. You also get the most gluing out of the way when you do the legs early on. I detest this plastic welder glue. Make sure you have good ventilation when you use this stuff.
My ab armor is pretty much a done deal. I'll have pics later. I decided to go with two button-down straps on each side. I could close up the front and back to where there are no gaps, but it is a bit uncomfortable, so I left about 1/2 inch gap on each side. I have my wife's grandmother working on the elastic belt connector. It won't be Velcro. When I get it back, I will bolt the thermal detonator to it. I'm assuming that the stories of these things getting ripped off is not urban legend.
The chest and back pieces have been fun to try and decide how I want to join them together. At one time, I was thinking about gluing them together with the ridged shoulder-bridge pieces! After learning of the elastic strap bit, I decided to join the two pieces with straps. I put buttons on the back piece for a good anchor point and velcro on the front so that it can be adjustable.
A problem I can see right now is the front wants to slide down, pulling the back up. I'm contemplating adding Velcro straps to the top of the kidney piece that will hold the back piece in place.
Next, I'll be adding the shoulder bells and bicep pieces. Oh yeah, also the ridged shoulder pieces. Another thing I dread because it will involve glue. :cry
It makes logical sense, at least to me, to start at the feet and work your way up when building the armor. It seems that the placement of each piece depends on the previous one. You also get the most gluing out of the way when you do the legs early on. I detest this plastic welder glue. Make sure you have good ventilation when you use this stuff.
My ab armor is pretty much a done deal. I'll have pics later. I decided to go with two button-down straps on each side. I could close up the front and back to where there are no gaps, but it is a bit uncomfortable, so I left about 1/2 inch gap on each side. I have my wife's grandmother working on the elastic belt connector. It won't be Velcro. When I get it back, I will bolt the thermal detonator to it. I'm assuming that the stories of these things getting ripped off is not urban legend.
The chest and back pieces have been fun to try and decide how I want to join them together. At one time, I was thinking about gluing them together with the ridged shoulder-bridge pieces! After learning of the elastic strap bit, I decided to join the two pieces with straps. I put buttons on the back piece for a good anchor point and velcro on the front so that it can be adjustable.
A problem I can see right now is the front wants to slide down, pulling the back up. I'm contemplating adding Velcro straps to the top of the kidney piece that will hold the back piece in place.
Next, I'll be adding the shoulder bells and bicep pieces. Oh yeah, also the ridged shoulder pieces. Another thing I dread because it will involve glue. :cry
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troopermaster
Well-Known Member
Have you got the kidney plate connected to the back? If you do this it will keep the back from riding up and the chest from sliding down.Also,you could try shortening you shoulder strap or add another snap to take up the slack.I would use elastic from the kidney to back too,so you will have some 'give' when bending over.I'm sure most of the straps on the LFL suits were elastic.
Paul.
Paul.
Clutch
Master Member
Originally posted by ANH trooper@Oct 2 2005, 06:46 AM
Have you got the kidney plate connected to the back? If you do this it will keep the back from riding up and the chest from sliding down.Also,you could try shortening you shoulder strap or add another snap to take up the slack.I would use elastic from the kidney to back too,so you will have some 'give' when bending over.I'm sure most of the straps on the LFL suits were elastic.
Paul.
[snapback]1088284[/snapback]
I added elastic straps to the back. Works like a charm. Will probably add a couple to the front as well to keep it in place. As far as bending over, I can bend about 10 degrees and that's it. I'm starting to wonder, is all TK armor like this, or is mine just....wrong. There's no way I could pick something up off the floor once I'm suited up. ABS has very little give to it.
troopermaster
Well-Known Member
I think the only to be able to bend over means cutting the cod plate from the abdomin,and even then it's still restrictive.I could bend down in my old suit with the ab cut,but it still cut into me.No matter what you do,the armour is going to be restrictive by it's very nature.I'd love to be able to source some rubber modified ABS or styrene to make a more flexible suit.I suspect that some other material was used for the real LFL suit's.Nobody knows for sure what they were actually made of........do they?
Clutch
Master Member
I can't imagine falling in armor. Ouch. :lol
That would be cool to mold stuff in the original material. Especially those ridged shoulder pieces. I think I'm gonna have to straighten mine out a bit because they have too much curve to them. They are also too long. Is the loop holding them down just ordinary, white elastic?
That would be cool to mold stuff in the original material. Especially those ridged shoulder pieces. I think I'm gonna have to straighten mine out a bit because they have too much curve to them. They are also too long. Is the loop holding them down just ordinary, white elastic?
troopermaster
Well-Known Member
I used thin white elastic before but now I'm inclined to think that it was cotton/canvas just like the strap under the ribbed plastic shoulder strap.I also now think that the main belt may be just cotton.After doing a lot of research,I can't seem to find anything like it.I originally thought it was quite rigid,like heavy duty canvas,but it looks more like regular cotton.Who know's eh?
Oh,I got you those parts swapped over too clutch I'll ship them ASAP.
Oh,I got you those parts swapped over too clutch
I'll ship them ASAP.troopermaster
Well-Known Member
OK bud,PM sent.
Clutch
Master Member
I've just come to the frightening conclusion that I will not be able to dress myself! <que shocking music> If I put the chest and back pieces on, I can snap the shoulder bell/bicep combo to the shoulder strap. However, I can't reach over far enough to snap the other one. I need to think about this.
You were right about elastic straps. I had some leftover canvas ones that have no give whatsoever and they came unsnapped from the bicep pieces at the slightest movement. Hopefully, these elastic ones will give some when I stretch my arms.
I found some off-white cotton elastic that should work well with the shoulder straps:
I'm saving the absolute worst for last. The abs shoulder straps. I guess I'm freaking out because I have to glue them to my pristine chestplate. There aren't any guides as to how low to put them or at what angles they should be. Oh yeah, I have yet to finish the belt which could be a nightmare as well.
So close, yet so far away......
You were right about elastic straps. I had some leftover canvas ones that have no give whatsoever and they came unsnapped from the bicep pieces at the slightest movement. Hopefully, these elastic ones will give some when I stretch my arms.
I found some off-white cotton elastic that should work well with the shoulder straps:
I'm saving the absolute worst for last. The abs shoulder straps. I guess I'm freaking out because I have to glue them to my pristine chestplate. There aren't any guides as to how low to put them or at what angles they should be. Oh yeah, I have yet to finish the belt which could be a nightmare as well.
So close, yet so far away......
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