Star Trek TOS Phaser 2 - AA P1 release pin and bar modifications for push instead of pull

[TOS Phaser]

If someone has already thought of this and posted it - please let me know.

I took my broken all gray DS P2 apart and may have a simple solution worked out for a push instead of pull P1 release pin.

Here are the two parts:

Here is the same photo with a top view of the lock bar added:

Step 1: remove the triangle wedge from the pull pin:

Step 2: reshape the piece you removed:

Step 3: glue the reshaped wedge to the pull pin:

Step 4: cut the back of the wedge on the top of the lock bar as shown to make a new face:

I think some reinforcement should be added the original wedge face on the lock bar.*

Reinstall and it should work. Note: I have not tried this yet because my lock bar is broken. I optically reassembled it for this presentation.

Possible problems with the mods:
1. Alignment of the pull pin and new wedge.
2. Lock bar wedge is too thin after material is removed to make new face. (* I suggest adding a blob of JB weld to the original lock bar face and the top of the lock bar.)

 

[Leinads]

Was wondering if you attempted the mod yet? This looks like it will work with some reenforcing - maybe fabricating your design in metal?

 

[TOS Phaser]

Not yet. I have been trying to complete other pressing tasks and projects.

Yes that was what I was thinking - though I am concerned a metal lock bark will scuff my P1. I need to draft/CAD the parts so that I can have the lock bar 3-D printed and the push pin machined from brass.
At my first opportunity I will mod the parts I took out of my last DS P2. I will have to repair the broken lock bar.

I do not know if the clear plastic DS parts are harder (ie more brittle) than the AA gray plastic parts - they seem to be.
(I may also work on a replacement lock bar that will work with the WC P2 - P1 brass release pin that is already being made.)

 

[Leinads]

I don’t have access to 3D modeling software, so an easy old-school “proof of concept” technique is to triple the scale, and model the mechanism and it’s related components in wood/ foam board mounted to your bench. Add appropriate spring tension, etc. as needed. You can always hand-fabricate the unit in hobby brass or aluminum to check the tolerances further. I’ve used this method prior and it was fantastic when 3D mechanical animations are not an option. Just an idea and good luck

 

[Leinads]

Not yet. I have been trying to complete other pressing tasks and projects.

Yes that was what I was thinking - though I am concerned a metal lock bark will scuff my P1. I need to draft/CAD the parts so that I can have the lock bar 3-D printed and the push pin machined from brass.
At my first opportunity I will mod the parts I took out of my last DS P2. I will have to repair the broken lock bar.

I do not know if the clear plastic DS parts are harder (ie more brittle) than the AA gray plastic parts - they seem to be.
(I may also work on a replacement lock bar that will work with the WC P2 - P1 brass release pin that is already being made.)

I don’t have access to 3D modeling software, so an easy old-school “proof of concept” technique is to triple the scale, and model the mechanism and it’s related components in wood/ foam board mounted to your bench. Add appropriate spring tension, etc. as needed. You can always hand-fabricate the unit in hobby brass or aluminum to check the tolerances further. I’ve used this method prior and it was fantastic when 3D mechanical animations are not an option. Just an idea and good luck

If you’re adept at soldering and using a jeweler’s saw, you can literally construct all the primary + secondary (and the mechanism housing) entirely from sheet brass, tubing and rod.) Again, scale it up for ease of construction and debugging

 

[AJK001]

Not yet. I have been trying to complete other pressing tasks and projects.

Yes that was what I was thinking - though I am concerned a metal lock bark will scuff my P1. I need to draft/CAD the parts so that I can have the lock bar 3-D printed and the push pin machined from brass.
At my first opportunity I will mod the parts I took out of my last DS P2. I will have to repair the broken lock bar.

I do not know if the clear plastic DS parts are harder (ie more brittle) than the AA gray plastic parts - they seem to be.
(I may also work on a replacement lock bar that will work with the WC P2 - P1 brass release pin that is already being made.)

I have seen that problem with a lot of P1's. I had a Phaser that was supposedly built by HMS that had the ball and socket type P1/P2 catch and the ball in the P2 always scuffed up the back of the P1. I got to the point that I rarely took the P1 out of the P2.

 

[TOS Phaser]

AJK001 - Roger That! I ordered a built up Rod.com ( HMS) P2 from Federation Phaser back in the day. It was a very nice piece.
The paint was durable with a clear coat and that spring loaded ball (P1 release mechanism) still scuffed the P1!
Interestingly - when I adapted a Rod.com P1 kit to fit in my Master Replicas P2 - the hole for the ball socket rivet was in the right spot for the MR lock bar...