finalfrontier
Active Member
Stupid question, how do you pm? I tried start a conversation but I don't think that is it.
Star Trek Geological Tricorder Build
- Thread starter Captain Dunsel
- Start date
I have an extra as well, if anyone is looking
Edit: Correction. I checked my parts stash and I don’t know where my extra drum is. My mistake there.
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finalfrontier
Active Member
Bummer, I'm still looking for one if you do find it.
Macnmike
Member
Alley:
Member Lost in Trek Shared some of his TOS gorgeous tricorder builds with us not too long ago—including the attached Geological. Recently, I purchased a gutted Master Replicas that the previous owner planned on turning into a Geo. He offered me the cam and proper watch crowns, but I have other plans for the shell. He might be an RPF Member, but I don't know his handle. I can probably put you in touch with him if you have any interest.
Best. Mike.
Attachments
I soldered together the brass “distress indicator light” (pics to come) box and am pending the milky acrylic.
I don’t think the light was mounted directly in the “distress indicator box” itself, and behind the milk plex (the light would be waaaaaay too bright and “hot” if they did…I believe the incandescent bulb was actually mounted in the lower compartment, below, and shined up into the “distress indicator light box”.
I’ll be putting together a secondary “light box” in the lower compartment that will shine up directly into the “distress indicator” light box in the middle compartment.
I don’t think the light was mounted directly in the “distress indicator box” itself, and behind the milk plex (the light would be waaaaaay too bright and “hot” if they did…I believe the incandescent bulb was actually mounted in the lower compartment, below, and shined up into the “distress indicator light box”.
I’ll be putting together a secondary “light box” in the lower compartment that will shine up directly into the “distress indicator” light box in the middle compartment.
Macnmike
Member
Archived and thanx again, Mr. Trek.
Did you start with Horch/HMS/Rodenberry kits, or have I insulted you because you built-from-scratch?
Best. Mike.
Thanks, Mike!
I already have a very accurate Cam replica that I picked up from Ryan over at TFW.
The shells and aluminum frame I have are also comparable in scale to the MR (so, pretty darn accurate
).I’m ready to rock n’ roll…it’s a matter of my skill being able to pull this one off (fingers crossed).
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Macnmike
Member
I know a guy... He's Canadian, typically polite, and has turned many disc arrays for me. I'll be happy to put you in toch if you'd like.
Best. Mike.
finalfrontier
Active Member
That would be fantastic, Alley great work
Macnmike
Member
This is Mike...
If you give me your contact information, I will forward it to him. We do a lot of business on Facebook Messenger, but he certainly has access to email and text messaging.
Best. Mike.
finalfrontier
Active Member
I made some progress, today…
I completed the soldered brass “distress signal lightbox” and hit it with some primer. I test fit it in the picture below. So far, so good…
The lightbox has some heavier brass angle stock tabs that have also been soldered into the interior of the structure that will be used to screw the lightbox securely into the Tricorder aluminum frame. The right hand side of the lightbox box will also be screwed directly into the Tricorder frame. It should be really secure once mounted.
The milky acrylic front piece of the lightbox should arrive this coming weekend.
I completed the soldered brass “distress signal lightbox” and hit it with some primer. I test fit it in the picture below. So far, so good…
The lightbox has some heavier brass angle stock tabs that have also been soldered into the interior of the structure that will be used to screw the lightbox securely into the Tricorder aluminum frame. The right hand side of the lightbox box will also be screwed directly into the Tricorder frame. It should be really secure once mounted.
The milky acrylic front piece of the lightbox should arrive this coming weekend.
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finalfrontier
Active Member
You know your going to have to put a wad of chewing gum on it to be screen accurate LOL
Believe it or not, I’ve considered it.
Looks good!
Btw, I used the same CAM.
Btw, I used the same CAM.
Thanks!
Yeah, trying to find an accurate cam part is what held-up attempting this build, for so long, for me.
No huge updates, but I finished the basic construction of the “distress beacon” light-box.
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finalfrontier
Active Member
Looks great Alley! Nice job on the light box.
Moving along…
I finished what is the most nerve-wracking part of a Tricorder build—cutting and shaping the swiveling hood….this is what makes or breaks your build.
I am happy with the results (whew!).
This is where a drill press fitted with a cutting wheel is key to the operation.
I finished what is the most nerve-wracking part of a Tricorder build—cutting and shaping the swiveling hood….this is what makes or breaks your build.
I am happy with the results (whew!).
This is where a drill press fitted with a cutting wheel is key to the operation.
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Interestingly enough, as much as I love my MR Tricorders, the hood is where they are a bit inaccurate….
The “real” prop exhibits a fairly thin profile for the hood, which is what is key in allowing it to swing widely on its axis as it does. The surviving hero in the Jein collection is pictured below:
The MR hood is a bit too thick (likely to accommodate the electronics). You can see how much thicker the hood is here, on one of my MR Tricorders. This is what causes the hood to strike the upper frame bar on its opening axis.
In the series, the only Tricorder whose hood struck the top aluminum frame bar was the leatherette Tricorder, which did have a thicker hood, compared to the other midgrade Tricorders.
The leatherette:
And a standard fiberglass midgrade exhibiting a much thinner hood profile:
The “real” prop exhibits a fairly thin profile for the hood, which is what is key in allowing it to swing widely on its axis as it does. The surviving hero in the Jein collection is pictured below:
The MR hood is a bit too thick (likely to accommodate the electronics). You can see how much thicker the hood is here, on one of my MR Tricorders. This is what causes the hood to strike the upper frame bar on its opening axis.
In the series, the only Tricorder whose hood struck the top aluminum frame bar was the leatherette Tricorder, which did have a thicker hood, compared to the other midgrade Tricorders.
The leatherette:
And a standard fiberglass midgrade exhibiting a much thinner hood profile:
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