Star Trek Boomerang Phaser Build Q2 2023

[dsvintage]

Hi RPF,

I’m embarking on my first prop build which will be a Stapleton Star Trek Boomerang phaser kit. I’ve ordered a set of electronics from GMProps and plan to build it in the Voyager style (all green LEDs).

Hoping to source some knowledge from folks on the forum as I go.

First question is when/where to apply clear coat. I’m almost done having a base of silver and then plan to spray the button area flat black. Should I clear coat the entire silver area now to protect the silver, or spray the black and then clear coat everything? (Would the black paint adhere to the silver if the silver was clear coated?)

Second question is regarding the power meter bar. The Stapleton kit comes with a version based on the First Contact power bar (lots of little lines), but on Voyager/DS9, the bar was different (more like little squares). Does anyone know of a source for different power meters for the kit?

Thanks all, excited for the build!

 

[masterjedi322]

When I did my phasers, I clear coated everything at the end.

As for the power meter, I’m not aware of anyone who makes alternate versions. Although you could probably replicate one out of styrene easy enough.

My cobrahead build is here if it helps - The Star Trek: The Next Generation Type II Phaser Project (Cobrahead) – Complete

Look forward to seeing your build!

Sean

 

[Redrocirt]

In such cases I personally prefere to apply a first thin layer of clear coat on the metallic base color and let it dry 2-4 hours (depending on weather conditions and temperature). Then I add the mask tape and spray paint the area that should get another color. After 10 min I carefully remove the mask tape (to avoid sharp edges on the paint border) and let it dry another 15 minutes. At the end I apply clear coat on everything again. Sometimes I let the clear coat dry approx 15 min and then add another layer of clear coat, because I’ve learned the hard way that it is better to apply only thin layers of spray paint and repeat it, instead of getting drops of paint (or clear coat) running down the surface…

 

[dsvintage]

In such cases I personally prefere to apply a first thin layer of clear coat on the metallic base color and let it dry 2-4 hours (depending on weather conditions and temperature). Then I add the mask tape and spray paint the area that should get another color. After 10 min I carefully remove the mask tape (to avoid sharp edges on the paint border) and let it dry another 15 minutes. At the end I apply clear coat on everything again. Sometimes I let the clear coat dry approx 15 min and then add another layer of clear coat, because I’ve learned the hard way that it is better to apply only thin layers of spray paint and repeat it, instead of getting drops of paint (or clear coat) running down the surface…

Thank you! I really appreciate the tip. Do you do any wet sanding over the clear coat or just apply and let it dry?

 

[Redrocirt]

Personally, I do not wet sand the clear coat. Sanding would matte the finish and can ruin the metallic look...

Wet sanding (with eg 600 grid) is the first step before adding Primer. I usually use a "Filler" instead of a pure Primer (the Filler coat layer is a little bit thicker than a pure Primer layer and fills tiny holes). I let the Primer/Filler sit and dry some hours, then carefully wet sanding the surface once again with a 1000+ grid sand paper. Do not fully sand down the Primer/Filler, just make sure the surface is smooth everywhere. Once I'm happy with the surface I add the first coat of metallic spray paint… Sometimes I have to sand it down and add another layer of Primer/Filler to get rid of blemishes in the surface I didn't notice before.

 

[Tripper]

semigloss clear coat at most, the silver was not glossy. The grip should also get a semigloss coat to match the screenused props. The black button pad area should be semi-flat black and the emitter should be glossy black. Here’s my thread on building a boomerang replica to match a screenused prop I own

also, ignore the custom paint info in that thread. I’ve since repainted it with code WA8311 and it’s a near perfect match for the original

 

[dsvintage]

semigloss clear coat at most, the silver was not glossy. The grip should also get a semigloss coat to match the screenused props. The black button pad area should be semi-flat black and the emitter should be glossy black. Here’s my thread on building a boomerang replica to match a screenused prop I own

also, ignore the custom paint info in that thread. I’ve since repainted it with code WA8311 and it’s a near perfect match for the original

Wow, that build is beautiful! Thanks for the tips, it’s all great reference info and I appreciated it!

 

[dsvintage]

semigloss clear coat at most, the silver was not glossy. The grip should also get a semigloss coat to match the screenused props. The black button pad area should be semi-flat black and the emitter should be glossy black. Here’s my thread on building a boomerang replica to match a screenused prop I own

also, ignore the custom paint info in that thread. I’ve since repainted it with code WA8311 and it’s a near perfect match for the original

Is that WA8311 still available? How would I go about buying some?

 

[AnubisGuard]

Is that WA8311 still available? How would I go about buying some?

It's the manufacturer's color code for a 1984 Pontiac color. No aftermarket company (like Duplicolor or Plastikote) currently sells a matching color, so you'd have to get it custom mixed.

You can buy it online, for example here:

Silver Sand Gray Metallic 15W/WA8311 for GM

2WayPen (.3 oz.) by ExpressPaint combines two paint repair pens into one cost-effective solution for fairly small nicks and scratches .One side of the 2WayPen is your factory-matched color; the other side contains high-quality clearcoat. Other Available sizes (Clearcoat not included and it is...

expresspaint.com

Alternatively, you can take the code to any auto body shop and they should be able to mix a spray can for you.

 

[Feltman Langer]

Silver Sand Grey Metallic
Year: 1983-1984
Paint Manufacturer Codes
GM(Fisher code) : WA8311
Make/Year Code : 15W
PPG/Ditzler : 3524
Dupont : B8387
Sherwin Williams : 33203
RM/BASF : 13102
Glasurit : GM-8311

I got mine made in a PPG shop, really does look the part.

 

[dsvintage]

Hi RPF,

So I’ve been working on my Boomerang phaser build and have been running into some minor but frustrating issues. The first is that when I spray the emitter in Duplicolor Universal gloss black, the gloss doesn’t dry with a uniform finish. Some of it dries dull. I’ve tried two different new cans of paint, warmed it up and shook the rattle can for 6 minutes plus before spraying. Anyone know why this would be? See first picture, where the raised lip of the emitter is dull.

Second issue is that while the Duplicolor GM347 silver dries with a uniform finish, it has a rough grainy feel to it, despite my having sanded the underlying resin and primer with super fine grit. Anyone know how to get a smooth to the touch finish? I’ve heard that you don’t need to sand the actual finish coat if the underlying coats have been well sanded. Is this correct? See second picture.

Thanks all!

 

[AnubisGuard]

That fogging on the black could be from too much humidity. I've found Duplicolor paints are pretty sensitive on that front. Try clear coating it and see if that fixes it.

The rough finish looks to me like a possible chemical reaction causing the paint to lift/wrinkle. Does it spray on smooth and develop the rough finish as it dries? If so, what brand and type of primer are you using? The Duplicolor car paint is a lacquer base so you need a lacquer primer.

It's also possible you have a clogged or defective spray head. If it sprays on rough, see about cleaning out the spray nozzle, or trying a different can.

 

[dsvintage]

That fogging on the black could be from too much humidity. I've found Duplicolor paints are pretty sensitive on that front. Try clear coating it and see if that fixes it.

The rough finish looks to me like a possible chemical reaction causing the paint to lift/wrinkle. Does it spray on smooth and develop the rough finish as it dries? If so, what brand and type of primer are you using? The Duplicolor car paint is a lacquer base so you need a lacquer primer.

It's also possible you have a clogged or defective spray head. If it sprays on rough, see about cleaning out the spray nozzle, or trying a different can.

Thanks for the help! Humidity here in Southern CA at the moment is about 55%. I’ll try a clear coat and see if it helps.

I’m using the Duplicolor grey scratch filler primer so thought they should work together being the same brand. I’ll try cleaning the spray nozzle and potentially another can. Any other brand black gloss paint that you could recommend? Thanks again.

 

[AnubisGuard]

Thanks for the help! Humidity here in Southern CA at the moment is about 55%. I’ll try a clear coat and see if it helps.

I'm in SoCal too, near Culver City, and this level of humidity is well above the amount that totally ***** with Duplicolor in my experience. A clear coat should take care of it.

I’m using the Duplicolor grey scratch filler primer so thought they should work together being the same brand

Yeah, that should work fine then.

Try painting something else with that can of primer and paint, some scrap plastic or something if you have it. There's a small possibility of a chemical reaction with the resin itself.

Any other brand black gloss paint that you could recommend?

Pretty much anything should work. My personal preference is to paint with a matte or satin and then coat with a gloss clear. The Krylon Colormaxx Paint + Primer stuff works fine, or anything Rust-Oleum is good too.

 

[dsvintage]

Ok, posting for some advice. I’m trying to apply gloss black to my phaser emitter nozzle, but it’s always tacky after applying.

I’m using Duplicolor grey primer with Krylon gloss black on top. Everything is dry and clean and I’m spraying light coats. But the black never dries properly. Should I switch to a Krylon primer? Thanks RPF!

 

[AnubisGuard]

I've painted other brands on top of Duplicolor primer plenty of times without issue. But I've never painted with Krylon All-In-One "Paint + Primer" on top of another primer layer before. That might be your problem - it may not be designed to be a top coat for anything.

I'd try a regular black spray paint, be it Krylon, Rust-Oleum, or Duplicolor.

 

[13doctorwho]

Almost all Krylon paints are "paint+primer" now. I've painted them over primer and never had a problem. Even over filler primer from a different brand.

Did you wash the parts before painting? Sometimes there is release agent from the molding process that can cause all kinds of paint problems.

I personally don't use Duplicolor because I live in Houston Texas and that brand can't handle our humidity.

 

[dsvintage]

Almost all Krylon paints are "paint+primer" now. I've painted them over primer and never had a problem. Even over filler primer from a different brand.

Did you wash the parts before painting? Sometimes there is release agent from the molding process that can cause all kinds of paint problems.

I personally don't use Duplicolor because I live in Houston Texas and that brand can't handle our humidity.

Thanks. I did wash the parts. Could it be an issue with enamel vs. acrlyic paint? Im not sure what kind of paint Krylon Fusion is, but was going to try a can of Krylon colormaxx to see if that would work better for me. It is also a paint + primer formula.

 

[dsvintage]

I just thought of something, in stripping the paint over several attempts where the gloss black stayed tacky, I would use easy-off oven cleaner to strip the paint. Then rinse the part off in water, dry it, re-primer and paint again. Maybe I need to give the emitter part a really good wash with dish soap to make sure any easy-off is truly gone.

 

[dsvintage]

Does anyone have tips on how best to paint the power meter? Is it just Tamiya acrylic green on a bristle brush? Thanks!