Slothfurnace's OBI ANH Reveal saber - WIP

Discussion in 'Star Wars Costumes and Props' started by slothfurnace, Mar 21, 2012.

  1. slothfurnace

    slothfurnace Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    It's my "holy grail" saber. Everything leading up to this has been practice to me.

    [​IMG]

    I plan (hope) to make this one a springloaded chamber reveal.

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    I have enough stuff from Russreps to do it, and a couple clamps. I also have a chromed emitter and powdercoated booster, which I might make an AFBB out of.
    A nice bundle of wires, a connector, and....

    [​IMG]

    A Crystal Focus v5 LS version! Erv was so kind as to allow me to test the LS version, so this will the be the heart and soul of my ANH Obi chamber reveal saber.

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    GORGEOUS! I cannot wait to get out in the garage to begin the housing for this. I have to clear a couple things off my plate first, but this one has my juices flowing. It's time to get the drawing paper out and start designing the mechanism, start the search for the right chamber crystals, etc.

    [​IMG]

    The PC is just there for size reference for the CF-LS.
    I had quite a lot of trouble getting my head wrapped around the chamber lock mechanism for this one. I was trying to make it too much like my ROTJ Luke. Then tonight I just scrapped it for a much more obvious and elegant solution, once I get something that works, I 'll post that.

    [​IMG]

    I started tonight with boring out the Russreplica's aluminum ANM2 booster piece, and fitting it to a hollow tube that also works as my main can and crystal chamber base.
    It's been so long since I did any saber work, lately I am inspired to get back to it though.
     
    Fuzzual likes this.
  2. slothfurnace

    slothfurnace Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    [img width=958 height=768]http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/ANHObiReveal/010.jpg[/img]

    The real problem with this saber, is the fact that I have a LOT less space to work with. The outer contour of the clamp, the booster, the grenade, is a lot smaller than the ROTJ Luke due to all the cuts into the shapes. Designing a chamber reveal lock is proving to be challenging. On the ROTJ Luke, I had support rods running the entire length of the rear section, from the grenade piece to the pommel. The ANH Obi has a design that precludes these support rods. I may remove them from the design altogether.

    [​IMG]

    However, I think I figured it out once I abandoned the "twist pommel lock" method I developed with the ROTJ Luke, and tried to do something new for this one. My plan is to use the Graflex clamp lever bolt as a pivot, and the natural gap between the bars as a slot for a lever that will have a hook on the front that engages a notch in the grenade, and a nub on the back to press with my thumb.

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    Here I am milling out a notch in the "top" of the grenade section. To determine the top, I screw in the brass windvane till it stops, and the notch in that points up. Then I mark the top of the grenade, clamp it in the vise and mill.

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    This is the notch where I plan to have the chamber release lever catch on.

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    I'll machine my latch that pivots on the clamp lever bolt next, since I have to machine that to fit the notch, so that there's as little slack as possible.

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    Here's my release lever. I had a plate of aluminum scrap laying around with just the perfect width, perfect hole already drilled in it for the bolt, and I just had to machine it to fit. I also milled down between the bars and partially into the main housing to allow for the spring that keeps tension on the lever, keeping the chamber locked.

    [​IMG]

    There is excess material on the thumb nub left, I will machine that down as I get closer to finishing this section. I don't want it to stick out TOO far, but I want to be able to get hold of it. All this will be hidden under the bubble strip.

    [​IMG]

    This is the tooth that locks into the notch on the grenade section. I will probably get this anodized black, or painted a dark color so it doesn't show up as much. The aluminum crystal mount temp piece is there as a doodle, till I get my brass in to make the final part. I need to shorten it, and narrow the inside opening, and make the curve a bit more prounounced before I am satisfied with this part.
     
  3. slothfurnace

    slothfurnace Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    [​IMG]

    Not that it shows up much at all, really, but it should be a dark grey or black. Here it is all closed under spring pressure, not too noticable. I'll need to do a good weathering pass when I am done machining so it matches my original static Obi Wan hilt.

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    This is about as far open as the chamber will go with support rods. Without them, I might get another inch of opening. No crystal chamber yet, that solid aluminum cylinder is there to test the latch functionality, and to let me know how much more support I will need to make things as sturdy as I can. I may not have outer support rods at this point. I am entertaining a new design that might not need them. If that turns out to work well, it will help me with the quick detatch bladed section vs. non bladed section setup I have bouncing around in my head at the moment.

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    So a few points here. I needed some way to keep the pommel cube ring from rotating. Not that it would spin freely, but they tend to move over time. So I used a 1/8 endmill to cut a slot down into the inside surface of the ring. This slot engages the raised 6/32 setscrew I use to secure the pommel to the booster. I also took the steel pommel endcap, and cut a larger hole through it, and angled it so as to be sort of a speaker amplifier.

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    Tonight, I am machining out my main canister for the battery tray. I have to cut this away so the two 18350 batteries have a spot to sit. This also lets me get down to the other side of the can on the inside to mill out a flat spot and drill and tap for the recharge port, which I will do later.

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    Battery tray version 1. Hopefully I won't have to do a version 2, since this is a lot of work on one piece.

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    Batteries are heatshrunk still, don't worry, they're not going to ground out against the aluminum. I think I will enlarge my battery tray a bit more. I have another millimeter or two I could shave off the back, as long as it doesn't show a gap through the booster section, it will be fine. I want plenty of room in here for wire, solder, and heatshrink.

    [​IMG]

    With just enough room for the speaker and MicroSD card. I may machine a delrin speaker enclosure and scoot it back into the screw cap of the pommel a bit more.
     
  4. slothfurnace

    slothfurnace Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    [​IMG]

    My brass for the crystal chamber finally arrived, and here I am cutting a radiused face into it for the crystal mount using my Holdridge Radius cutter mounted on my tool post on the lathe.

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    I need a new short cutting tool though, this one is chipped. But it will do for now.

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    I also drilled a temporary hole through the middle and concave radiused the inner corner.

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    Here I have an assortment of crystals to pick from for the chamber, I think I'll go with the top middle one.

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    After an evening of milling, drilling and tapping, I got the three 4-40 support rods evenly spaced, the three LED holes set, and the channels for the wire. I also had to keyhole mill the slots for the crystal.

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    I'll probably do a lot more work on this, but I like where it's headed. I'll need holes for wire conduit, possibly some more decoration, but I do love the curved face of the mount.

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    Normally, I use flat plates to do my "radiator fins" for these crystal chambers. This time, I wanted to do something a little more challenging. I want to try making domed fins, carrying the curve from the crystal mount all the way through the chamber. To do this, I need to make several of these radiused blanks. It's a process that involves facing off the brass rod, using and endmill to cut my 3/8 internal hole, setting up the radius cutter, getting it in the right spot, making my concave radius, taking the radius cutter off the tool mount, setting up the part off tool, parting off the blank, facing off the back of the blank. Rinse and repeat four times (or more) and then I have to transfer my hole pattern from the crystal mount to the blank. Once I am done with that, I have to flip them all over and cut the convex radius in a process yet to be determined. It's tedious work, but I have a feeling it will pay off. Right now they're quite a bit thicker than I need, but that's to allow for working with them easier. It's really hard to chuck thin things up into my lathe. I'll need to make a radiusing jig to bolt each one to so I can get to it with the radius cutter.
     
  5. slothfurnace

    slothfurnace Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    [​IMG]

    Well, my jig worked finally after a few revisions, and I was able to get inner and outer radius cuts on my fins. These will be pretty thick. I might thin them out afterwards, once I get more of the assembly done.

    [​IMG]

    These won't go all the way around the chamber in the final build, I'll have a window cut into them so you can see the crystal, much like the other fins I have done. Next up, getting some brass tubing that fits the 4-40 threaded rod, and milling flats so the spacers fit flush into the fins.

    Broke a 4-40 tap last night or I'd be further along on this. BUT I was able to drill out through the center of my brass rod, which was nice.

    [​IMG]

    Comin along, as I get time to work on it.
     
  6. slothfurnace

    slothfurnace Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    [​IMG]

    So the plan is to cut these fins in half, and do a little more milling, but this is the test first piece to see what I think.

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    I like it, I want to shave some more off it, but it's getting close to what I have in mind. Pardon the crumby cellphone pics, I took these at my desk at work.

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    Here's the plan, I hope I have illustrated it correctly, it's kind of hard to draw these compound curves and such.
     
  7. slothfurnace

    slothfurnace Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    [​IMG]

    Here are all of the fins cut across the middle.

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    The bottom cutouts didn't turn out too bad. I need to drill my radiator pipe holes just above these next.

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    I need to machine out my spacers, they will be the next pieces I need to make.

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    I still need to mill flats in the other two plates, so my spacers will seat properly, and everything will stay straight once assembled.

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    What do I call this.... the plug can? Top of the crystal chamber? Whatever it is, this is where my wires exit the conduit and go to my top focusing crystal and on to the DIN plug to interface with the blade.
     
  8. slothfurnace

    slothfurnace Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    [​IMG]

    I couldn't resist trying out my LEDs for the chamber and blade... I did a quick wire up to see how the light spills through the crystal.

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    I think it's going to work ok.

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    At this point I had cut a hole in the side of the Graflex clamp for the recharge port, and needed to replace the stock nut that came with it with a custom nut that was threaded for the recharge port, but replicated the "transistor washer/heatsink" thing that was on the original prop. Here I have a half inch section of aluminum drilled and threaded for the recharge port.

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    And after parting off and cleaning it up a bit, I have a valid transistor washer piece that holds my recharge port. I will fabricate a transistor kill plug like I did with my first Obi saber

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    Here I am drilling out some small brass rod so I can thread it for 4-40 so I can use it as my support rod collars/dome fin spacers.

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    And these are the holes those spacers will interlock with on the domed fins.
     
  9. slothfurnace

    slothfurnace Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    [​IMG]

    Tonight, I spent a few hours getting this cut right. This is the cut out for my slide stop cap screw. This was one I sweated over, because it had to be far enough towards the center to let the screw overhang enough to stop the slide from flying off, yet far enough away from the inner wall of the grenade so that the threads wouldn't exceed the inner wall.

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    Also the screw head couldn't exceed the outer wall of the grenade. I think I got pretty close. Now to do it two more times. Although I think in tests, this single screw is strong enough to stop the action.

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    I don't know where I got these tiny 6-32 screws, but they're just short enough not to have to drill into the next line of grenade ribs after the first one, and still be able to be threaded in there.

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    I did have to grind off the tip of my 6-32 tap to make it short enough to work in such confined space. Once this is assembled, weathered, etc. The hole won't be visible, also it will be covered by the graflex clamp to some extent.
     
  10. slothfurnace

    slothfurnace Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    [​IMG]

    Today I took care of a lot of little issues. I stabilized and shimmed the pommel to the booster section, shortened my crystal chamber so it would leave enough room for the DIN plugs and spring in the top, evened up my spacers between the domed fins, secured the chamber base to the main can under the clamp.

    [​IMG]

    I also cut my quick detach groove into the top section of my crystal chamber. I need to get over to Fry's for some DIN connectors, and I'll be able to finish that. I was also finally able to test my latch, when it is pressed the chamber pops open like it should. I had to lock down the chamber base with another setscrew to secure it, but it's working fine now.

    [​IMG]

    Here's a vid of the springloaded reveal mechanism... no electronics yet, those to come soon.


    www.slothfurnace.com presents: ANH Obi Reveal Chamber Function Test - YouTube
     
  11. jme3

    jme3 Sr Member

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    It looks very much like practice has made perfect. :thumbsup



     
  12. Kevin Gossett

    Kevin Gossett Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Saw this in person at the North Texas prop party, and it certainly doesn't disappoint! :thumbsup

    Can't wait to see it finished!
     
  13. Rodann

    Rodann Sr Member

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    WOW!!

    Amazing work. Makes me want to do that, after wanting to all these years.
     
  14. Tom1971

    Tom1971 Sr Member

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    PM me when you are done so I can give you my address. Be sure to pack it up real safe.

    Thanks
     
  15. Sluis Van Shipyards

    Sluis Van Shipyards Master Member

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    Wow! Very cool!
     
  16. slothfurnace

    slothfurnace Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    [​IMG]

    After a bit of a hiatus, I am back on this saber. One of the things that bugged me was the state of my main canister, the part that sits under the clamp. I had cobbled it together while figuring out how I wanted things to go. I was hesitant at first, but knew I needed to remake this piece. Mainly to allow for the activation/aux switch setup and a little more support for the crystal chamber mount. The extra lip around the brass chamber mount also mates to the step I machined in the grenade section, for a bit more stability when it's closed. I just lathed the threads out of that spot to make a smooth shoulder.

    You can see the clamp in the top part of the picture. It is cut out for the recharge port that you can see floating in the rear of the canister. In front of that, is a pivot that is hinged in a milled out spot.

    [​IMG]

    The arm that is attached swings between the two 90degree tactile switches. One will be for activation of the CFLS, one will be for the aux button. I had to machine a 'transistor' button that is threaded into the other end of the swing arm. This will go through the square tab in the graflex clamp from the outside, and tie into the arm, letting me push the transistor down for activation, and up for aux.

    [​IMG]

    This whole setup fits within the inside diameter of the clamp, and the inside diameter of the battery compartment.

    To mount the switches, I have a set of 1/16 holes drilled in the flat spot, where I will crimp the switch mounting tabs to. I also have a spot milled out under the switches for the wires to clear.
     
  17. slothfurnace

    slothfurnace Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    [​IMG]

    Beginning the final fit of the hardware, I still need to shave off about 3/16 from the crystal chamber DIN plug housing so the grenade shell will fit flush against the battery can when it's all closed down. Wires are long enough from Erv' to fit all the way from the soundboard around the battery pack, through the chamber mount, across the chamber, and into the top of the chamber plug housing. I'll wrap the exposed wires in some fine scale braided steel hose.

    Once my hardware is done and working, I'll weather it and install the electronics.
     
  18. Macjedi

    Macjedi New Member

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    WOW...just wow...will it have LED inside the emitter? This is way beyond cool...
     
  19. scottjua

    scottjua Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    man dude.... ever since seeing this in person I have been watching your blog daily just in case. Can't wait to see this done, and then see it at the prop party. ^_^

    This thing is pretty epic.
     
  20. jedimarkj

    jedimarkj Well-Known Member

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    This is just so very very cool! Loved your Luke ROTJ build as well!

    You, sir, are quite the innovator and talent!
     
  21. slothfurnace

    slothfurnace Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    It will have one LED inside the non bladed emitter, and a string of LEDs inside the bladed emitter. It will be interchangeable...

    [​IMG]

    So this blade is running at less than half brightness, at a setting of 200 out of 511. Seriallel works great! I finally wired it all up this weekend, and ran clear heatshrink over it. This served three purposes. One, for stability, now that it's heatshrunk down, I don't worry about the rigidity of the blade what with having it made of six segments that are wired together, instead of having one continuous anode leg. Two, it protects things while I am building. Three, it makes sliding the whole setup into the foam diffuser a lot easier.

    http://youtu.be/uMBQYj_Y1tg?hd=1

    This is at 80% of full power, volume of 2 out of 4.

    I really don't think I need to make it any brighter. My camera SERIOUSLY hates it, it auto dims to black almost. I have no idea if I can lock the exposure for a truly good recording, but you can see how bright it is on ignition.



    Thanks Scott! I can't wait to get it finished, it will definitely be at the next prop party!


    Thanks much, I appreciate it.. These reveal builds are as challenging as they are fun.
     
  22. bookface

    bookface Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    This is awesome...I love your attention to detail.
     
  23. slothfurnace

    slothfurnace Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    [​IMG]

    MECHANICALLY WORKING!

    I finally got the thing all tied down, it works, it's straight, it's rock solid and balanced. The blade is cut and fit, the chamber is secure, the latch works, the DIN plugs mate and clock correctly, the quick detach works, etc.
    Next up, weathering/oxidizing the grenade and windvane and emitter.
     
  24. jme3

    jme3 Sr Member

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    You're making one for everyone here, right...? :)
     
  25. Hirohawa

    Hirohawa Sr Member

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    Amazing work!
     
  26. Kevin Gossett

    Kevin Gossett Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    :lol

    Brad, I know this one has been a long time coming. Can't wait for you to finish (and see it at next year's prop party!) :thumbsup
     
  27. slothfurnace

    slothfurnace Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Yeah, it's been in production for almost a year exactly. I made my first post about this one May 31 last year.

    As hard as I am working on it, I don't think I will get it done by the 31st though, but middle of June for sure (hopefully)
     
  28. slothfurnace

    slothfurnace Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    [​IMG]

    Here's a glimpse at one of my portable workstations, it's a big steel plank with a panavise and a frankenthirdhand attached to it. I use this for all sorts of projects.

    [​IMG]

    Been working on finishing up the crystal chamber, replaced the mesh on the right side, since it snagged and bent, and got the LEDs installed.

    [​IMG]

    I decided not to go with a cable rack across the top as you may have seen in one of the other pics. Just didn't turn out the way I liked. I think this is better.

    [​IMG]

    You can sort of see the wiring under the crystal chamber mount here, it's a triangular array going from LED channel to LED channel, and terminating across the backbone of the battery can. After some test fits, I am happy to say it all fits in there.
     
    Last edited: Jun 3, 2012
  29. gobelas

    gobelas New Member

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    I have no words!!!!:thumbsup
     
  30. Trilogy

    Trilogy Sr Member

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    I may be stating the obvious. Nonetheless, I'd still like to take this opportunity to say your saber builds are all kinds of awesome.
     
  31. slothfurnace

    slothfurnace Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Hey thanks! They are lots of fun and quite a challenge sometimes. Very rewarding though, when things work out...

    I seem to have exceeded one year on this build, I figure at this pace I'll be done by the end of June.
     
  32. Country Paul

    Country Paul Sr Member

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    Brilliant, I love your reveal builds the attention to detail is incredible,

    Can't wait to see this one finished
     
  33. slothfurnace

    slothfurnace Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Me too, it's been a long time coming...

    [​IMG]

    Here I have started weathering the Russrep parts. Using Birchwood Casey chemicals for brass and steel, I did a first pass of oxidation on the grenade and brass windvane.

    [​IMG]

    The un weathered front section of the windvane will get some blackening chemical in the little groove running around the middle of it. I still also need to weather and oxidise the emitter, but I ran out of the steel chemical doing the grenade. That will be next.

    [​IMG]

    I need to finish the weathering on both sections before I finalize the wiring.
     
  34. slothfurnace

    slothfurnace Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Now that I am back from Vacation, here is some progress on the weathering of the emitters...

    [​IMG]

    And now it's time to weather the emitter. A small jelly jar that my emitters fit in, and some Birchwood Casey bluing chemical.

    [​IMG]

    Trying to get both emitters as close as I can. One got a little darker than the other, but I think it's close enough. These were apparently from different runs, and I am unsure if the same steel was used in both sets.

    [​IMG]

    I'll oil these up and they'll darken a bit, and that will preserve the finish and keep them from rusting or oxidizing further.
     
  35. slothfurnace

    slothfurnace Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    [​IMG]

    Almost done with the weathering, I think I need to do another pass to the windvane fan, and maybe the grenade a bit darker.

    [​IMG]

    I also need to patina the upper neck a bit, especially the groove and underside of the blade anchor, as I like how my other two Obi's look compared to the new one. Although I am liking the contrasts of my new emitter much better than the other two.
     
  36. slothfurnace

    slothfurnace Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    [​IMG]

    Front of the blade anchor machined to fit the wires, LED string base, foam diffuser and outer plastic diffuser.

    [​IMG]

    Upper neck weathered, blade anchor drilled out a bit more for correct depth, blade anchor holes drilled, tapped and countersunk.

    [​IMG]

    A little rocket surgery before bed, and the bladed grenade/emitter section is complete!
     
  37. Kevin Gossett

    Kevin Gossett Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Getting excited to see this so close to completion! :thumbsup
     
  38. No 6

    No 6 New Member

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    I can honestly say that this is one of the most incredible Star Wars builds I have ever seen. Your creativity and craftsmanship are truly awe-inspiring. I am looking forward to a youtoobs video of the finished product in action. ;)
     
  39. Fuzzual

    Fuzzual Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Aside from the fact that this is one of my favorite sabers, this build is completely amazing. Your work and attention to detail is to be admired! And the photos are absolutely perfect. You sir, are an artist. Well done, and thank you for all the great detail, and sharing with us!
     
  40. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Others have taken the words right out of my mouth, thank you and fantastic work - can't wait to see the final result too.

    This may be a weird question, but what does your workbench look like? I've always wondered how people managed to anchor down small projects like these, a vice can only go so far
     
  41. slothfurnace

    slothfurnace Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Thank you all very much!

    [​IMG]

    An unplanned bit of work here. I had originally bored out this Russrep aluminum booster on the left for use in this saber, but it just didn't look right to me. Very black, slightly uneven machining, and a bit light. Thanks to a fellow forum member, I snagged a steel version of the same booster made by Russrep. This was much better machined, matched the coloring of my grenades, and is a much better weight. Boring this one out was a lot easier than the first one, as things get easier the more you repeat them. I am much happier with this piece now. It's fitting with closer tolerances, so no brass shims needed, and it looks much better. Time well spent, as my grandfather used to say.
     
  42. jollyskeleton

    jollyskeleton Active Member

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    Very awesome work Sloth!
     
  43. The_Mike

    The_Mike Well-Known Member

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    Wow. I loved your Luke build but this one is really impressive. I have expect it actually work like the movies.
     
  44. slothfurnace

    slothfurnace Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    [​IMG]

    Well, it's finally time to light her up. See what works, see what doesn't. Crystal chamber is pretty neat, lighting progressively along with the blade. It also flickers each LED corresponding to Accubolt flickering of random segments, which is cool. It also flicker clashes with the blade.

    [​IMG]

    Around a year and a half in my brain, a little over a year in production, and we have a lit blade.

    [​IMG]

    The little illuminated ring under the emitter works ok, about like my other sabers.

    [​IMG]

    These last shots were at a power setting of 425 out of 511.

    [​IMG]

    At 475 out of 511, it gets a little crazy. This is with me setting the camera exposure correctly for the room, THEN turning it on

    [​IMG]

    Letting the camera self adjust to the brightness gives this kind of pic.

    [​IMG]

    Left to do: Set swing sensitivity, clash settings, select volume and brightness settings for each bank, finish the NON bladed grenade section.
     
  45. scarf man

    scarf man Sr Member

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    Stunning.
     
  46. Rebelscum

    Rebelscum Sr Member

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    1,535
    What he said.

    I can't wait to see this at next year's prop party.
     
  47. slothfurnace

    slothfurnace Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Thanks!!

    Greatly looking forward to it!
     
  48. Kevin Gossett

    Kevin Gossett Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I think we all are! :lol
     
  49. slothfurnace

    slothfurnace Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Minor video of the Obi Reveal...

    Baby Jedi - YouTube

    My daughter evidently loves lightsabers, who'dathunkit?
     
  50. slothfurnace

    slothfurnace Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

    Trophy Points:
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    And some real vids!

    www.slothfurnace.com presents - Obi Wan Kenobi Epic Reveal part 1 - YouTube

    This vid showing the open crystal chamber, with iSaber at the beginning, and normal operation at the end. Also my menu sounds and operation.

    Main blade vid coming soon.


    http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=3FTn6WK3fDU#t=115s

    iSaber on the crystal chamber with imperial march... Too cool!


    http://youtu.be/ZA5s-Kz33w0 - iSaber bargraph mode on the LED string blade of the Obi CF-LS Reveal - with normal saber operation at end of video.
     
    Last edited: Jun 30, 2012

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