Show your custom Lightsabers!

Wasn't intending to have another one so soon-- but much like yesterday, this one sort of fell together. Or rather, this one was more or less the reject pile of parts I wasn't sure what to do with. :)

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The body of this one is a "Life" brand (like the magazine) 2 cell Heiland knock off. It's clamp was one solid cast piece meant to screw directly into a bracket-- so there was no slot for a card-- just hardware holes. Given that, plus how shiny it was, I decided to make this the partner to the last one I posted. Something meant for a higher class function. Maybe it belongs to the partner Jedi of the last one. (Or, if I MUST say the word, a Padawan).

The grips are a thinner version of chrome trim I used before. The activation matrix is an assortment of parts I got from taking apart an old broken SLR camera. The neck is the body of a Leitz flash (a cheaper, less sexy Kobold imitation), the emitter is a bulb socket, and the shroud is 3D printed.

I got a couple shrouds from shapeways to experiment painting on to see if I could make them seem substantial. I also got some wrinkle paint, that is a ***** to work with, but can make for some decent results. I went with a brand with a review by somebody who said it makes stuff look like all "those electronics in wrinkle paint" from the 40s. That sounded like the right endorsement to me.

The Leitz neck is actually original wrinkle paint, the shroud I painted. I think it actually looks pretty decent. Where the shroud is less successful is the weathering. An actual weathered wrinkle-painted piece would be chipped away-- where as mine looks like paint on top of the wrinkle. Also-- no amount of sanding seems to fully hide the lines made by 3D printing.

Next time, I sand, paint it gunmetal silver, wrinkle paint, then chip/sand off the wrinkle to expose the silver-- or at the very least JUST paint silver into where I have chipped.

Not my favorite design of what I've made-- but for being crafted from the reject parts pile, it isn't bad.
 
Ultra sabers also has a lot of blade options. TCSS is probably the best bet though. You could always make your own using polycarbonate tubing!
 
I also got some wrinkle paint, that is a ***** to work with, but can make for some decent results. I went with a brand with a review by somebody who said it makes stuff look like all "those electronics in wrinkle paint" from the 40s. That sounded like the right endorsement to me.

What is the name of the brand? The texture looks spot on.
 
What is the name of the brand? The texture looks spot on.
VHT makes wrinkle paint in black and red colors. Love the stuff, my engine's rocking it on the valve cover and intake manifold. I don't have an oven to properly bake it, but I hung the parts up, sprayed it as directed, then attacked it with a heat gun as uniformly as possible until it got a really nice, really fine wrinkle texture. I think you'll love it.

Oh snap! I went to get a link, they have it in gray and blue now!

http://www.vhtpaint.com/high-heat/vht-wrinkle-plus-coatings

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that's my prototype of lightsaber (not yet finish). All parts are handmade by me .soon more.

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What is the name of the brand? The texture looks spot on.

It was this stuff:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000QEAZ50?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

You have to follow the instructions to a T-- plus be sure to prep the target accordingly. I did a lot of sanding and did a flat black coat first.

The end result was good-- but the problem with the product is thatI did the emitter above and one the before the spray nozzle gummed itself up. They tell you to spray it on thick, and it is gummy, smelly stuff-- but if its own nozzle craps out and you toss out an almost full can something isn't right.

I'm trying the DHT and a can from Eastwood soon and will report back. Hopefully they work as well.
 
Get some valve cover paint....you'll want to spray it on then heat it up with a heat gun since you can't bake it....I don't think you're supposed to base coat with any other paint though. And yes follow the directions but...also if a spray can like this is allowed to dry with paint in the nozzle it will clog. Turn the can upside down after painting and spray the paint out and you'll have a clear nozzle


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Damn, a lot of great designs on here.

Btw, which style sabers do you guys prefer?
OT industrial foubd-parts, PT stylized machined, or organic ancient?
 
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