SDCC08 - Dr WHO Replicas!

Light stopped working. I guesstimate I pressed it maybe 20 times total. I am very tempted to defeat the language filter right about now.

Any suggestions Neil??????????
 
Hey Phez, could you take an up-close pic of the slider from the side while you've got it taken apart? I've been wanting to put the button on the slider of my CO toy but I haven't found a good way of doing it.
 
Mine hasn't even shipped yet. Hope they get it out before the UK post strike that's coming up. Didn't get any answer from MFX customer service about what delivery service is being used.

Those with dodgy LEDs, have you tried swapping out the batteries?
 
There's a white plug inside that holds the batteries. I tried with all my might to get it out and it would not budge. I was pulling to the point I thought something was going to break. Dunno what I'm gonna do now.
 
Light stopped working. I guesstimate I pressed it maybe 20 times total. I am very tempted to defeat the language filter right about now.

Any suggestions Neil??????????

Sorry about that. We've find there's two things that could have happened. In some cases there'll simply be a faulty bit of wiring. Any large run of items with wiring in there you're bound to have a couple where a solder fails or breaks. Out of hundreds there's bound to be a faulty bulb also and in those cases, of course, we will replace any faulty goods immediately. Tough to spot beforehand also when, as you said; the light was working to begin with but then stopped. Obviously we wouldn't send one out if the light wasn't working beforehand.

Were it's not actually a bulb or solder joint it can just be a tweak in the battery compartment. The battery compartment was designed to take up to 4 batteries but we found the LED we have runs super bright on 3. What's sometimes happening though is the contact point was positioned to strike the back of 3rd battery but, as all these switch components are soldered by hand, sometimes the contact point is a fraction out of line missing the back edge of the 3rd battery by a fraction of millimeter. On the originals, whch took 4 batteries, this wasn't a problem as it struck the fourth instead and worked but without the fourth one in there it can miss. In some cases it's striking the retaining spring instead and still working but, as the spring loses a tiny bit of tension or rotates slightly a connection is lost suddenly.

Quick fixes to try then are to either pop another battery in there to make it up to 4 and to give the contact point more to strike or pop out the batteries and add a little spacer ahead of the first battery, such as a small pee sized ball of metal foil flattened out and dropped in to the battery compartment ahead of the batteries. This spacer will just nudge the batteries back a fraction so the conection is more positive.

Worth noting that the white retaining plug that holds the batteries and spring in place should be kept flush with the base of the brass inner section. Pushed in too far it too can prevent the contact point from reachign the battery.

On another note, anyone dissasembling their sonic should be aware that the grub screws shoudln't be over tightened when you reassemble because they push the base and top parts out of whack and interfere with the sliding action. they should be gently tight only.

As mentioned anyone still having an issue with a product please contact the office and we'll sort out return and repair or replacement immediately!

Best wishes
Neill
 
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Light stopped working. I guesstimate I pressed it maybe 20 times total. I am very tempted to defeat the language filter right about now.

Any suggestions Neil??????????

There's a white plug inside that holds the batteries. I tried with all my might to get it out and it would not budge. I was pulling to the point I thought something was going to break. Dunno what I'm gonna do now.

Have you removed the grub screw in the side of the brass inner body that holds that white plug in place. Remove that first and then the white plug should come out more easily.

Neill
 
Have you removed the grub screw in the side of the brass inner body that holds that white plug in place. Remove that first and then the white plug should come out more easily.

Neill

Didn't know there was one. :eek I will give it another try tonight.

One tiny nitpik, the paint has started coming off of the little button. It looks like the button and plate got sprayed from the side facing the front of the screwdriver because there is less paint and a bit of orangepeel on the other side of three that I've seen so far.
 
Oh come on, Matt. An ego as big as yours can handle a comment like that! :lol

again... bitter much? So you're telling me that you are free to mouth off to a board member if YOU consider them ABLE to handle it?? I'll keep that in mind in all of my future dealings with you, as I'm sure others in the thread will too.
 
They're damn tricky things to paint. Obviously we have to take care not to over do it on the paint otherwise it'll clog the button and stop it working but there's also no way to mask off the button. The paint is from a spray can which, you can imagine, makes it difficult to control on an object only 10mm or so square. The only way to do it is to spray as lightly as possible and then, once dry, crack the paint around the button by depressing it a few times to losen it away. This sometimes causes additional paint to flake off. In addition the button tends to sit a little towards the back of the hole in the slider and does have a tendancy to 'mask off' an area when spraying causing a kind of shadow.

I'm sure lots of people will say, "Ah, just spray it this way or that way or mask it and use an airbrush!" but believe me it ain't that simple as, to maintain authenticity, we're using these cans of spray which are the original ones used and they aren't subtle or easy to work with! I remember when Chis, who made the first prototypes for me, tried to paint those ones. it took him TWO WHOLE DAYS :eek to get a good finish. He tried dozens of times and dozens of ways and had to strip it all back and go again and again and again. Poor guy shudders every time he sees one now!

Neill x
 
again... bitter much? So you're telling me that you are free to mouth off to a board member if YOU consider them ABLE to handle it?? I'll keep that in mind in all of my future dealings with you, as I'm sure others in the thread will too.

And YOU get to speak for the whole board? I grabbed my telescope and looked at the center of the universe, didn't see you....
 
And YOU get to speak for the whole board? I grabbed my telescope and looked at the center of the universe, didn't see you....

Matt is spot on. Your posts in this thread (and a few others) have been increasingly shrill and insulting to other members, including the licenscee. I don't know how old you are, but you're coming across like a spoiled kid.

You need to chill out and think what you're saying before you let rip :thumbsdown
 
It was weird. I tried all the tricks suggested, still nothing. On the 4th battery, I put it in and it lit twice, then stopped again. I can't find any breaks in the wires or bad solder spots. I think I'll have to send it back for repair at this point.


Sorry about that. We've find there's two things that could have happened. In some cases there'll simply be a faulty bit of wiring. Any large run of items with wiring in there you're bound to have a couple where a solder fails or breaks. Out of hundreds there's bound to be a faulty bulb also and in those cases, of course, we will replace any faulty goods immediately. Tough to spot beforehand also when, as you said; the light was working to begin with but then stopped. Obviously we wouldn't send one out if the light wasn't working beforehand.

Were it's not actually a bulb or solder joint it can just be a tweak in the battery compartment. The battery compartment was designed to take up to 4 batteries but we found the LED we have runs super bright on 3. What's sometimes happening though is the contact point was positioned to strike the back of 3rd battery but, as all these switch components are soldered by hand, sometimes the contact point is a fraction out of line missing the back edge of the 3rd battery by a fraction of millimeter. On the originals, whch took 4 batteries, this wasn't a problem as it struck the fourth instead and worked but without the fourth one in there it can miss. In some cases it's striking the retaining spring instead and still working but, as the spring loses a tiny bit of tension or rotates slightly a connection is lost suddenly.

Quick fixes to try then are to either pop another battery in there to make it up to 4 and to give the contact point more to strike or pop out the batteries and add a little spacer ahead of the first battery, such as a small pee sized ball of metal foil flattened out and dropped in to the battery compartment ahead of the batteries. This spacer will just nudge the batteries back a fraction so the conection is more positive.

Worth noting that the white retaining plug that holds the batteries and spring in place should be kept flush with the base of the brass inner section. Pushed in too far it too can prevent the contact point from reachign the battery.

On another note, anyone dissasembling their sonic should be aware that the grub screws shoudln't be over tightened when you reassemble because they push the base and top parts out of whack and interfere with the sliding action. they should be gently tight only.

As mentioned anyone still having an issue with a product please contact the office and we'll sort out return and repair or replacement immediately!

Best wishes
Neill
 
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Good advice, thank you and my apologies to anyone I may have offended. I am sorry.

Matt is spot on. Your posts in this thread (and a few others) have been increasingly shrill and insulting to other members, including the licenscee. I don't know how old you are, but you're coming across like a spoiled kid.

You need to chill out and think what you're saying before you let rip :thumbsdown
 
Groovy.

A bit of advice for everyone from an experienced flame thrower - if I write up something when I'm steaming I'll say everything I want to but walk off before hitting send. I get a coffee or cup of water or just stretch a bit and then come back and read what I typed. 95% of the time I realize I need to tone it down after that break.

Once the heat of the moment's passed we're all a lot smarter.

Back on the real subject:

Now that there's more than a few of these beauties in the field how about some action shots people? Even if the sonic has a issue or two it still looks cool as all get out. Let's see some of you with your new favorite toy! :)
 
Two are getting ready to go back. Tried swapping batteries between the two and now neither works.

I think the problem is the play between the white plug, the black sleeve, and the spring. I tried all combinations and mine is still dead and now my wife's flickers.

When the button is depressed, is it supposed to strike the side of the battery, or just underneath?
 
Same boat my friend! I put in the extra battery and it worked twice, then dead again. The button can strike either the battery or the spring, but it quit. I know MFX will make it good, they've been stand up through the whole time, even with my impatience! My only concern is that I spent $70.00 for shipping the first time, if I need to send it back, then get it again, well $210.00 in shipping is WAY more than I can I swing. I was contemplating just living with a dead sonic, but I just can't. I'm really hoping I get a shipping break... a call tag from MFX or something. I mean, it should have been working flawlessly from the box...no more expenses needed. I really don't think we should be hit shipping with a design fix issue. Oh well, we'll see on Monday.

This sonic is just such a beautiful thing to hold and play with. We should stary a club..The fortunant 500 or something. :lol

Two are getting ready to go back. Tried swapping batteries between the two and now neither works.

I think the problem is the play between the white plug, the black sleeve, and the spring. I tried all combinations and mine is still dead and now my wife's flickers.

When the button is depressed, is it supposed to strike the side of the battery, or just underneath?
 
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