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N9
You don’t dilute aluminum black you just leave it on for less time. The longer the contact the darker it gets.
im familiar with birchwood aluma black which you can dilute with water. Birchwood Casey aluminum black, according to a quick Google search can be diluted with water also to lessen the effect. I’d prefer this method rather than full strength, less time.
 
N9

im familiar with birchwood aluma black which you can dilute with water. Birchwood Casey aluminum black, according to a quick Google search can be diluted with water also to lessen the effect. I’d prefer this method rather than full strength, less time.
thats great to know, i have only ever used water to stop the effect! Ill try a few different dillutions
 
N9

im familiar with birchwood aluma black which you can dilute with water. Birchwood Casey aluminum black, according to a quick Google search can be diluted with water also to lessen the effect. I’d prefer this method rather than full strength, less time.
I am also familiar with Birchwood aluminum Black. You are correct you can dilute it. However you fail to realize that it's also not a permenant solution. It wears off over a small period of time.
 
I am also familiar with Birchwood aluminum Black. You are correct you can dilute it. However you fail to realize that it's also not a permenant solution. It wears off over a small period of time.
All paint Jobs do.
If you are handling a prop or saber enough to wear finish you are opting for the “weathered and lived in look” which is star wars to be fair ha!
 
I would also be interested in darkened grips. Main reason I've been following this saber was it being the most screen accurate one currently being worked on
 
I'd be interested in the painting service if only because I don't want to have to do it again (I have a Korbanth that I did myself, which I'm hoping to replace with this one)!
 
Updated the sheet and yes it was missing the speaker

Here are the instructions as well!!
Will Add to OP
really nice write up
 
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