I did the math for that specific taper form a few pages back. It is meant for a custom coat, of course. To modify the SR in that way is difficult, though height and length are well done. The curvature / length of the upper part could only be modified on an existing coat by slowly stretching it out, maybe. But I won't do that on my coat. The collar up position is practically irrelevant for daily wear and my SR still gets me a lot of compliments.
the fact that wearing SR gets compliments, it's quite understandable regardless of our study of the details.
Absolutely agree, absolutely avoid doing stretching maneuvers on an SR: I was talking about Jameel's laminate (which has elastic properties), otherwise you only risk ruining it, SR is a tough and rigid fabric (then after the greenland + otter wax that I did on it, very tough I would say).
On the third waxing hand, I created an experimental method that I had already tried elsewhere, it was very successful: I carefully blew evenly some talcum powder just after having applied a coat of otter dressing, this was incorporated into the waxed coating (leaving the coat in the correct open position hanging for a long time so that the wax polymerizes correctly completely and in position), then I made some touch-ups with the bars...there you go (here below, it was a couple days after I correct a bit again the right side of the collar corner to make it even more SA, coated with this new method and put back the original real shearling after having it distressed in a more brownish / mustard tone, now it's perfectly stable)
I would say that on the color and shine effect, I couldn't ask for better.
For the record, I take this opportunity to do my examination of the 3 best waxes (greenland, barbour, otter) tried (both on my k coats and on other things, other twills, a duck canvas jacket etc):
density: 1 greenland 2 otter 3 barbour
shine added: 1 otter 2 barbour 3 greenland (it doesn't add any shine at all)
curing time (from the fastest): 1 greenland 2 barbour 3 otter
sturdiness added: 1 greenland 2 otter 3 barbour
SA effect: 1 otter (by far) 2 barbour 3 greenland (it doesn't do nothing for increasing the look)
In the end, I used Greenland bars just as a base on the external part (don't want any paraffine-based wax to make constant contact with my skin, so only Otter for inner parts), Greenland also helps to speed up curing time of other more creamy waxes (as Otter and especially Barbour which is very creamy) and make the cloth heavy and robust as a winter coat should be, I put abundant quantities of it when waxing my BEP from Jameel, since it's not pure cotton at all (still a bit of PU lamination and spandex in the weave) and that wax is designed to grip on g1000 fjallraven clothing, which is cotton together with a high percentage of synthetic fibres, so it seems to grip on almost every type of fabric, as Otter, but even more.
Finally I did some tries to machine wash (delicate cycles) a waxed garment which already ended the curing time due:
doing a careful hang to dry it without any direct heat sources and not folding it, absolutely none of the garment I tried, losed the wax coating, it just may need a bit of re-adjustment, but if it was already stable before, at 20°C washing cycle it stays there where it is, maybe you can just do some re-touches with a bar, but it wasn't really needed.
With that I don't wanna suggest to machine wash waxed garments (preferable to avoid it on every garment that has a synt-wool lining like this coats of us), and on the label, the only washable cloth between these coats that also has a fixed coating, is SR, you can also wash Jameel's laminate (with my attempts, I washed it really too much, and I keep using it, I put vids recently here and still looks great even if to much distressed, it really seems like one of the propstore more distressed coats, just a bit shorter and with a tighter collar), but just FYI. If I wash 30-40° my coated SR or another fabric I tried with these waxes, it simply lose the coating, no damages, no particular clots hard to remove, you can just re wax again and everything is ok, but SR is the only one with a native fixed coating which can be considered quite close to the movie and fully washable, since Jameel's laminate (which seems no more available at today), I think it gives a really good effect even close to the propstore images, but after a while that I had it, I figured it wasn't exactly what I was looking for: too soft, too plastic-like, too shiny, and that's why I put my bep through all that stuff.
However, I think it's not impossible to have a similar (if not even sturdier) coating of SR, simply using the right acrylic in the right method, with the proper medium finish: I recently created a futuristic bag, demobaza-style inspired: I layered all over a pvc waterproof decathlon 10lt bag, in order to obtain a bag that I will use in my cliff diving season when I'll be back approaching rivers, I exceed a bit with the coating since I want it to be almost totally indestructible (it's gonna have harsh times with my hiking")...well, the result is stable this time, it doesn't crack, so I think I refined my acrylic coating technique, but the thing to know, is that it could be done properly almost only on non-elastic cotton types (also poly-cotton, but rigid and breathable enough to make the coating grip and let you fix it with heavy ironing, at least 120-150°C for 5-10 minutes).
It's probably possible also for elastic clothes, dunno if it should be done with a press in the case (by the manufacturer), but I guess that, since Demobaza sells terrific clothes that have both properties (I recently also bought another jacket for me from them, and despite the very high price and some unexpected flaws that I fixed, it's simply great and proofs how much knowledge and great results can be reached by expert clothing producers), and some of them seem close to the movie effect seen in the current auction.
Just an image of my bag attached (in person it's great showing two different colors one one more towards petrol and the other more towards grey, sorry for my poor photo means), how it looks after that acrylic treament and all my transformation, to give an idea.
Anyway, regardless of whether it's something aimed at collecting rather than everyday use (except being a Gosling clone when in the film form), I couldn't afford that kind of money, I could just try to sell mine well, then trust Indy this time with my instructions, and then have one in duck that is practically almost the same and how I want it.
