Roman Props MK1 Construction Help

[CrueGuyRob]

This is my first real post here so first of all, thank you all for this excellent community and resource. I've been poking around here for a couple years now and am constantly amazed by all the outstanding work and research I see. I'd be so lost (as opposed to my current mostly lost) without everything I've found here.

So hopefully I can save somebody else from making the same mistakes I made. From contacting both sites, TCSS 18500 1400mAh batteries are 4A and Solo's Hold 18500 2000mAh batteries are 2.8A. This is going to be my first Neopixel build and I unfortunately didn't stumble on this thread until after I had already designed/printed a chassis and purchased a battery. All the planning and research in the world and theres always going to be something you miss when learning something new eh?

Anyway, the Saber Bay 18500 seems like the best option, but I really don't think I'm comfortable trying to solder onto it. I'm coming up short finding any pre-wired batteries with high enough max current though. Are there any pre-wired ones that I'm missing or is everyone just adding their own wires/tabs?

The 18500s work for Tri-Cree LED builds, not neopixel as they do not have enough continuous amps. You need to get one of the 18350 batteries. They don't have a particularly long runtime, but they can properly power the LED strips in the pixel blades. I've never found an 18350 with pre-wired tabs or leads, so I've soldered directly to the battery itself and used JB Weld to hold the wire in place. I expect liquid electrical tape would also work, but I've not tried it. Soldering to the negative side of the battery isn't that difficult, but getting it to stick to the positive button is tough and I've yet to manage it successfully. Just be sure to not leave your iron on the battery contacts for very long.

 

[yellin70]

Hello there! It would seem that I’m a bit late to the party. I’m attempting to finally install my MK1 with Rudy Pando’s crystal chamber & the SCW chassis for my Proffieboard v2.2. I’ve seen a number of people on the MK1/V2 & V3 lightsaber crystal mod FB group. A number of members have posted about being able to fit both a 18650 & a 28mm speaker. There are some pictures, but not a lot about their process. I’ve tried to find a video on YT to learn more, but no luck so far. Is it possible to learn this kind of power? MTFBWY!

 

[CrueGuyRob]

Hello there! There's no room for a protected 18650 battery and a Proffie with the Rudy Pando crystal chamber, but a 28mm speaker fits in the cutout area of the V3 chamber. You need to use a protected 18350 battery.

 

[imawilliamray]

I think CrueGuyRob is right. After his push (thanks!) to go ahead and solder the battery wires myself I did manage to fit an 18500 in mine, but it was a TIGHT fit. I designed my own chassis so its entirely possible it is not as efficient as possible, but I'd be really surprised and interested if people are actually able to reliably fit an 18650 in there.

 

[CrueGuyRob]

As a quick point of clarification - 18500 batteries work with Tri-Cree LEDs, but are not rated for the necessary amp output needed for pixel blades.

 

[imawilliamray]

As a quick point of clarification - 18500 batteries work with Tri-Cree LEDs, but are not rated for the necessary amp output needed for pixel blades.

Is the KEEPPOWER 18500 saberbay sells not up for the task? This is what I used since the listed continuous discharge amps looks the same as similar 18650s. For what its worth, I haven't had any issues yet, but I'm still very unexperienced with this.

 

[CrueGuyRob]

Fascinating. I had not seen an 18500 with a 15A continuous discharge rating until just now. In the past, they maxed out at 10A which would not be enough to run a pixel blade on white. I trust Saber Bay and buy parts from them all the time, so I think what you have is good. I'm actually going to be re-thinking a Dooku install now that I've found this exists. Thanks!

In terms of the MK-1, I think the18500 would work using the Shtok or Goth 3D chassis. If you look at the photo below, you can see there's still some space between the end of the 18350 and the speaker (you actually can't see where the battery ends, but it's just basically in line with the 3D printed white piece in the middle of the clamp cage).

 

[yellin70]

Thank you for your prompt response Rob! I’m grateful for your experience & assistance. My understanding is that the 18650 battery may now work with the build (tight fit) without having to heavily modify the CC, other than for better sound. My understanding is that Rudy’s CC may now have more room than his earlier runs. I say may because I’m still waiting for a few components to be delivered. As such, I haven’t been able to do a test fit yet. I’ve attached some pictures of the bottom of my RPCC. At least we may be able to clarify if it looks different from his earlier runs. I’m still trying to find 32 AWG PTFE. I’m in the U.S. & it seems difficult to find, unless you’re willing to buy large amounts. More to follow… MTFBWY!

 

[CrueGuyRob]

I think it's going to depend on your chassis. The Shtok one for Proffie doesn't leave enough room between it and the speaker cone. It's a VERY tight setup.

Here's where I get my 32 AWG PTFE: 20 feet 32 AWG Silver Plated Copper PTFE Wire 5 color SPC | eBay

 

[yellin70]

Thank you for helping me find the wire! My search for 32 AWG PTFE wasn’t very successful. Either a manufacturer didn’t have it; or you had to buy a minimum of 100 feet of each color! As for the Shtok chassis & Rudy’s CC, they must’ve made some modifications because I noticed that Dmitry’s updated manual for the build now includes a 18650 battery, though I’m sure that it’s still going to be a tight fit! Can’t wait until the last few components are delivered.

 

[CrueGuyRob]

You're very welcome! It took me a while to find that seller and I've made a purchase through them twice specifically for MK-1 installs.

The image you shared is actually for an old installation approach, not a new one. It references a 3.5mm jack connector which I think was for early pixel blades, but I could be wrong; they're certainly not used anymore. I also believe that older installations were done with unprotected battery cells which are slightly shorter than the protected ones because the latter have the extra protection components on the top, bottom, and side of the battery cell. You could use an unprotected cell, but I wouldn't recommend it.

 

[yellin70]

Thanks Rob!! Great point! The manual with that picture is dated 3/6/20. As all of the part lists for each type of build only call for a 1.3mm recharge port, Dmitry must’ve inadvertently left the old rice port in the graphic. I got a 18650 3000mAh pre-wired protected battery for the install since the 3120mAh version had been out of stock for so long. Some members have stated that the 3120mAh version is better because the white is at its brightest. Is the difference in the brightness even noticeable?

 

[CrueGuyRob]

Thanks Rob!! Great point! The manual with that picture is dated 3/6/20. As all of the part lists for each type of build only call for a 1.3mm recharge port, Dmitry must’ve inadvertently left the old rice port in the graphic. I got a 18650 3000mAh pre-wired protected battery for the install since the 3120mAh version had been out of stock for so long. Some members have stated that the 3120mAh version is better because the white is at its brightest. Is the difference in the brightness even noticeable?

I've not compared the white between 3120 and 3000 mAh batteries as I al most never run pure white for my blades. I also haven't seen a 3120 for sale in a long time and haven't felt the 3000 are lacking in any way.

 

[onderon]

Any update on these projects? As an absolute MK1 fan I am always interested to see photos of installs

 

[CrueGuyRob]

Any update on these projects? As an absolute MK1 fan I am always interested to see photos of installs

It's my absolute favorite hilt and if I had to get rid of my collection and keep only one, this would be it without question.