spartan1803
Well-Known Member
robo i just wanna say thank you for all the time you put into this! here is a pic of my progress.
robo3687's Iron Man Pep Files - SD War Machine links page 73
- Thread starter robo3687
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- iron man 2
Two questions about assembling robo3687's pep files / mounting them onto yourself:
1) SHOES: From what I've read, some people here have actually WORN the full shoe ?? Sounds like at least one person poured a layer of resin to make up the "sole" and then somehow inserted a shoe and somehow locked it into place in there ?? Can anybody give more details about how they accomplished wearing the full shoe and what their experiences were regarding walking in it / wear & tear ?
I was considering making a sole out of resin and then "locking" a sneaker in there with more resin, but I'm concerned that a sudden "failure" of bonding between the sneaker and the resin will find me in the middle of a parade, unable to make any repair.
2) SHOULDER BELLS: It has occurred to me that maybe I can hard-connect the shoulder bell to the bicep in both the front and back with a bolt-and-washer. This would mean that, hopefully, I could pull on the shoulder, bicep, and forearm as one "whole" piece... and then simply use straps (maybe with parachute buckles) to connect them to the upper torso piece. And I think it would help make sure that the shoulder stays "locked" into the proper position, relative to the bicep. Has anybody done it this way? Or would I be better off (for some reason) attaching the shoulder bell to the upper torso piece instead?
Thanks!
-= Dave =-
1) SHOES: From what I've read, some people here have actually WORN the full shoe ?? Sounds like at least one person poured a layer of resin to make up the "sole" and then somehow inserted a shoe and somehow locked it into place in there ?? Can anybody give more details about how they accomplished wearing the full shoe and what their experiences were regarding walking in it / wear & tear ?
I was considering making a sole out of resin and then "locking" a sneaker in there with more resin, but I'm concerned that a sudden "failure" of bonding between the sneaker and the resin will find me in the middle of a parade, unable to make any repair.
2) SHOULDER BELLS: It has occurred to me that maybe I can hard-connect the shoulder bell to the bicep in both the front and back with a bolt-and-washer. This would mean that, hopefully, I could pull on the shoulder, bicep, and forearm as one "whole" piece... and then simply use straps (maybe with parachute buckles) to connect them to the upper torso piece. And I think it would help make sure that the shoulder stays "locked" into the proper position, relative to the bicep. Has anybody done it this way? Or would I be better off (for some reason) attaching the shoulder bell to the upper torso piece instead?
Thanks!
-= Dave =-
For the boots, there are several ways to do it. Either use the 2 Part boots that are floating around some where, or use the single one included in robo's Files. What some have done is used Foam padding in the boot itself to create a seal of sorts to hold it in place. As for resining in an old pair of shoes, if you use enough they will stay in there unless you run them over with your car, or truck, ect. As for wear/tear, I'd recommend some hot glue strips on the bottom to keep you from falling, but the resin/bondo should keep it from wearing out too easily when done right.
As for making the shoulders and biceps one peice, you should avoid that at all costs, unless making those parts out of EVA foam or cardboard as the rigid materials will make it impossible to get on, and if you can get them on, your stuck.
Hope I helped
EDIT: forgot to mention that some drilled holes into the bottom of their boots and ran some rope to tie in the shoes
For the boots, there are several ways to do it. Either use the 2 Part boots that are floating around some where, or use the single one included in robo's Files. What some have done is used Foam padding in the boot itself to create a seal of sorts to hold it in place. As for resining in an old pair of shoes, if you use enough they will stay in there unless you run them over with your car, or truck, ect. As for wear/tear, I'd recommend some hot glue strips on the bottom to keep you from falling, but the resin/bondo should keep it from wearing out too easily when done right.
As for making the shoulders and biceps one peice, you should avoid that at all costs, unless making those parts out of EVA foam or cardboard as the rigid materials will make it impossible to get on, and if you can get them on, your stuck.
Hope I helped
EDIT: forgot to mention that some drilled holes into the bottom of their boots and ran some rope to tie in the shoes
Thanks for the tips! That rope idea is a good one. You mentioned hot gluing some sort of material on the bottom of the shoes for traction? You thinking rubber ? Just glue strips to the actual treads ?
Thanks for the shoulder advice. I kind of thought that might be the case, but I thought if I used a bolt and washers, the shoulder would sort of "swivel" a bit to allow me some wiggle room to get in and out of it.
the glue itself should be enough but you can always go with some rubber padding for some added security.
as for the shoulder bells, if you want to make them one peice a better route would be some locking hinges like this one Double Locking Bi-Fold Door Hinge - Rockler Woodworking Tools or better still, attach them via rare earth magents. that'll keep them in place untill you litterally pry them apart
as for the shoulder bells, if you want to make them one peice a better route would be some locking hinges like this one Double Locking Bi-Fold Door Hinge - Rockler Woodworking Tools or better still, attach them via rare earth magents. that'll keep them in place untill you litterally pry them apart
Hello everybody!! First of all, I beg your pardon for my English (I'm Italian). I'm trying, but I need too much time to read the whole Thread. So, I go straight to ask some questions.
Thanks to Robo3687, for the great job!!!
I started to work on the Mark IV, from the brace unfolded from Balmung.
Then I continued with the chest, unfolded from LotechStark, but I noticed that the hole
in the brace is smaller than the cylinder housing the chest arc reactor (mark IV).
I noticed that in the files shared by Robo3687, there is another brace, unfolded from Jason02,
with different size than the Balmung one's. Also, there were other files that are unfolded
from both Jason02 and Balmung, with the Balmung files sizes smaller than the Jason02 ones.
I'm 180 cm tall ( 5 ft 9" ) and of thin built, Is it right for me the chest measures I choose (H347 W407 D212 - look the image)? What files are better (for me) for the remain parts of the armour?
Many thanks!!
Thanks to Robo3687, for the great job!!!
I started to work on the Mark IV, from the brace unfolded from Balmung.
Then I continued with the chest, unfolded from LotechStark, but I noticed that the hole
in the brace is smaller than the cylinder housing the chest arc reactor (mark IV).
I noticed that in the files shared by Robo3687, there is another brace, unfolded from Jason02,
with different size than the Balmung one's. Also, there were other files that are unfolded
from both Jason02 and Balmung, with the Balmung files sizes smaller than the Jason02 ones.
I'm 180 cm tall ( 5 ft 9" ) and of thin built, Is it right for me the chest measures I choose (H347 W407 D212 - look the image)? What files are better (for me) for the remain parts of the armour?
Many thanks!!
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Jordonatron
New Member
First off I am so so sorry. I Have to ask,,, It's driving me crazy. I no it's completely amatuer, but how do i convert robo's .rar files into pdo's??
OMG there is so much helpful info on here but i am stuck on the files. I opened up the files for mac and taking a look at some of the pics it looks to be parts cut off and not full on the pic. If someone is wiling to print up the files and send it to me or even build me one I would be willing to pay.. Thanks guys this site is awesome!!!!
I downloaded a couple files for mac but when I looked at them up close it looks to be missing some parts like it was chopped off and not scaled correctly to fit the paper. Do you have the pdf files by any chance? I want to make a war machine but Iron is my second choice. Email me if you got them please.. vip.ent08@gmail.com.
Thanks again
Thanks again
I would like both if possible WM and IM and as far as paper I'm not to sure I believe letter is standard US Printing, but if Office max or kinko's has A4 then so be it. I have a mac but what ever format you send it i can open and save on my desktop to usb. lol I think you are my hero for tonight lol. no ****
dabiddabird
Well-Known Member
I have a strange problem. When I go to print the IM helmet file some of the pieces print out of line or parts of the line are simply not there. Here's a pic to better illustrate the problem.
Has anyone had this problem? Or does anyone have a solution? I have printed other files before with no problems. I don't know whats going on with this one and it's driving me crazy.
Any help would be appreciated
Dabid
Has anyone had this problem? Or does anyone have a solution? I have printed other files before with no problems. I don't know whats going on with this one and it's driving me crazy.
Any help would be appreciated
Dabid
Jordonatron
New Member
Azurial. Thank you, such a simple solution that couldv'e had me running around for hours! Much appreciated
Robo, Cannot commend you enough on the pep files, your own suit and everything else in this thread. You sir are a crusader!
Robo, Cannot commend you enough on the pep files, your own suit and everything else in this thread. You sir are a crusader!
I have a few more questions for folks who've already built-out these files into the full costume:
1) SHOULDER-BELLS: Do you attach these to the biceps? And if so, at what points? I had been thinking that, from the photos I'd seen, the front and back of each bicep connects to the "sides" of each shoulder bell. But then I saw a photo of Robert Downey Jr. last week (can't seem to find it now) where it looked like the biceps were turned 90 degrees from that. But I'm going to have to connect those biceps to SOMETHING in order to "keep them up".
2) ABS: One of my goals with this build is.... **** to make it so that I can actually sit in a car or just plain sit down in a chair comfortably!! ****
(Couldn't do that with last year's War Machine build. Had to painfully hold my torso up while spread-out in the bed of a pickup truck.)
This has me wondering whether I should make PART or ALL of the abs out of foam ?? (But then, I'm a little worried that the stress from my... *ahem*... "hefty midsection"...may tear the foam when I do sit down.) Has anybody done that for the abs (while using fiberglass or something else for the rest of the costume)?
3) HAND-PLATES: These aren't supposed to flex in the middle, are they? I know some people have done that. They're supposed to be attached to the actual forearm at the rear and then pivot off of that point when you bend your hand back, right?
4) CHEST, BACK, BRACE, and SPINE: Working on pepping these out now. I take it that I need to connect these all, resin them and fiber them as one whole unit... and THEN cut them apart in a way that allows me to put them on, attach straps, etc ?? I have the chest and the brace peps finished and I'm thinking... if I glue these things together, I think I'm going to have a heckuva time getting in between them in order to fiberglass them?
I know that's a lot of questions, I apologize. Getting down to crunch-time here and I'm trying to get rid of the road-blocks quickly.
Thanks!
-= Dave =-
1) SHOULDER-BELLS: Do you attach these to the biceps? And if so, at what points? I had been thinking that, from the photos I'd seen, the front and back of each bicep connects to the "sides" of each shoulder bell. But then I saw a photo of Robert Downey Jr. last week (can't seem to find it now) where it looked like the biceps were turned 90 degrees from that. But I'm going to have to connect those biceps to SOMETHING in order to "keep them up".
2) ABS: One of my goals with this build is.... **** to make it so that I can actually sit in a car or just plain sit down in a chair comfortably!! ****
(Couldn't do that with last year's War Machine build. Had to painfully hold my torso up while spread-out in the bed of a pickup truck.)
This has me wondering whether I should make PART or ALL of the abs out of foam ?? (But then, I'm a little worried that the stress from my... *ahem*... "hefty midsection"...may tear the foam when I do sit down.) Has anybody done that for the abs (while using fiberglass or something else for the rest of the costume)?
3) HAND-PLATES: These aren't supposed to flex in the middle, are they? I know some people have done that. They're supposed to be attached to the actual forearm at the rear and then pivot off of that point when you bend your hand back, right?
4) CHEST, BACK, BRACE, and SPINE: Working on pepping these out now. I take it that I need to connect these all, resin them and fiber them as one whole unit... and THEN cut them apart in a way that allows me to put them on, attach straps, etc ?? I have the chest and the brace peps finished and I'm thinking... if I glue these things together, I think I'm going to have a heckuva time getting in between them in order to fiberglass them?
I know that's a lot of questions, I apologize. Getting down to crunch-time here and I'm trying to get rid of the road-blocks quickly.
Thanks!
-= Dave =-
dabiddabird
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the suggestions. I will try them out and see if it helps. Its weird though cuz the helmet file is the only one giving me trouble.
If it didn't work, take a closer look at the print preview page. Otherwise, cut the paper at the seam and paste it onto a slice of paper aligned correctly.
... If it is a big problem, send the file to my email address and I will see if it comes out wrong at my end too. martin_huizing@hotmail.com
For the sholders, you should really just use the method that MightyJohn used OR use some elastic strips to hold the arms together.
The abs you can do in 4 seperate sections that should alleviate the stiffness when sitting down, or do each ring in it's own section.
The torso files can be done as one part, or just line up some parts like the chest and back. you WILL need the bracing/struts to keep everything in place.
you are right on all accounts for the hand plates. the reason for the seperation in the two parts are for the line detail when you get to the glassing/bondo
