robo3687's Iron Man Pep Files - SD War Machine links page 73
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Stryken
New Member
Had this video shot and edited by a booth at the comic con, just got it emailed to me today. Turned out awesome! (aside from a couple wardrobe malfunctions of the hands not holding together right, so I had to keep 'em together with my fingers...)
http://members.shaw.ca/jefleppard/ironman.mp4
http://members.shaw.ca/jefleppard/ironman.mp4
If you do not brace the part your working on it can, and most likely will warp. If you are using cardboard (and not Card stock) you wont have to worry about warping.
EDIT: On another note - what is the dif between Smoothcast 320 and 325?
Thanks a lot! i just bought some cardboard, and I could tell the difference right away.
Let me ask you another thing (sorry if I'm bothering you with all my questions): Is it really necessary to apply the bondo after fiberglassing? Or could I just paint on the fiberglassed part?
The Bondo is used to smooth over the surface of the parts to create a nice clean/straight finish. It is a lot of work to get all the sanding done right but it is the right way to finish a pepakura piece for a production quality appearance.
Although, if this is just something you are doing to take up some time and you arent too serious about getting the look and feel of the armor right then you can paint over the resin... the paint will adhere, it just wont look like top notch work.
bondo is used for a smoother finish (i think) but you don't really need it if you used fiberglass. if using corrugated cardboard (like the kind used in shipping boxes, packages from online stores ect.) then you don't really need either but it is recommended to use something to smooth out the surface you intend to paint. Mightyjohn suggested using dry wall compound and I have used it for a few projects alread - it's A LOT cheaper than bondo, sands down easier and paints just as nicely, so look into that.
This person did a really good job on the build and the helmet looks halfway decent even without bondo or joint compound:
This person was obviously not using very good pep files to begin with but it is a good example of the edges you will get if you dont use bondo or joint compound:
You get the idea... all the edges, corners, and overlaps you have in your pep build will still show up. Also, you wont be able to put in any of the body lines without the extra thickness of the bondo/joint compound. You could always draw them on i guess. If you are not going to smooth it out I would recommend building your project without tabs and try to curve the cardstock/cardboard to get the shape of the piece as close to the real deal as you can. Good Luck.
Thanks a lot darkside501st!!!
Yes, the difference is huge.
It's just that I'm new on this pepakura thing, and I thought I had done a pretty decent job on the parts I built. I was affraid I could not get better than this, but I'll try. Here is a pic of the helmet and neck donde with card stock:
I'll start the helmet on cardboard right now. I'm a bit afraid of the fiberglass, but I guess once that is done, applying bondo will not be so terrible.
Yes, the difference is huge.
It's just that I'm new on this pepakura thing, and I thought I had done a pretty decent job on the parts I built. I was affraid I could not get better than this, but I'll try. Here is a pic of the helmet and neck donde with card stock:
I'll start the helmet on cardboard right now. I'm a bit afraid of the fiberglass, but I guess once that is done, applying bondo will not be so terrible.
Nice build so far. Your helmet will look pretty much the same after you coat it with resin and paint it. It will be similar to the first picture I posted of the other helmet which isn't bad for a cheap Halloween costume. Although, like I said before, if you are real serious about wanting armor that looks like it came out of the movie then you have to use bondo/joint compound to make it straight and smooth. But you definitely don't want to put the bondo on before your armor is stiffened with either fiberglass or smoothcast.
I personally wouldn't recommend cardboard unless you are strapped for cash. Use 110lb cardstock and you will get a nice start. It seems to me that cardboard would be more difficult to cut, shape, glue, and get all the details.
Your build looks good and if you used 110lb or heavier cardstock and if you used the braces that are in the pep files then you shouldnt have a hard time with it warping. Just put a thin coat of resin on the outside and inside first. The thin coat will stiffen it up, not rock hard but enough to prevent warping when you apply the fiberglass or when you slush cast it with smooth cast.
If it does warp at all that is not a big problem cause all you have to do is heat it up with a heat gun and then it will become flexible. You can then restore the shape, and hold it there while it cools. Once cool again it will retain the new shape.
I personally wouldn't recommend cardboard unless you are strapped for cash. Use 110lb cardstock and you will get a nice start. It seems to me that cardboard would be more difficult to cut, shape, glue, and get all the details.
Your build looks good and if you used 110lb or heavier cardstock and if you used the braces that are in the pep files then you shouldnt have a hard time with it warping. Just put a thin coat of resin on the outside and inside first. The thin coat will stiffen it up, not rock hard but enough to prevent warping when you apply the fiberglass or when you slush cast it with smooth cast.
If it does warp at all that is not a big problem cause all you have to do is heat it up with a heat gun and then it will become flexible. You can then restore the shape, and hold it there while it cools. Once cool again it will retain the new shape.
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Thanks again man! I ment to say I'm buildng the new helmet on 110 lb cardboard (or at least I think it is; I'm having a rough time translating/tranfering "cardboard" and "cardstock" and "110 lb" into spanish to buy them here in Argentina. Nobody seems to know the difference. The one I got now is still cardstock, but much harder than the one used for the helment in my picture).
I'll upload some images once I finish the helmet, or at least part of it, and maybe you can tell me if the material I bought is right this time...
THANKS AGAIN, you guys rock!!!
I'll upload some images once I finish the helmet, or at least part of it, and maybe you can tell me if the material I bought is right this time...
THANKS AGAIN, you guys rock!!!
yeah translating can be tough since products are often referred to as a different name. Maybe someone that has bought products in your area will speak up and tell you exactly what to get.
Basically, cardstock is a really thick heavy duty paper... it comes in different 'weights'. The weight will determine how thick the paper is. Some people have their own preference but most say that 110lb is a good weight for pep files.
Cardboard is what your typical cardboard box is made of. It is usually used to ship things (like when you order something of the internet), or to pack stuff in when you are moving. It is thick and brown and constructed like this:
Whatever you used looks pretty thick, definitely more than paper. You would have to be very careful even picking up a helmet made from paper. You would most likely dent it/squish it when you grab it. With a helmet made from cardstock you would be able to toss it in the air and catch it and it would still be fine. Hope that helps.
Basically, cardstock is a really thick heavy duty paper... it comes in different 'weights'. The weight will determine how thick the paper is. Some people have their own preference but most say that 110lb is a good weight for pep files.
Cardboard is what your typical cardboard box is made of. It is usually used to ship things (like when you order something of the internet), or to pack stuff in when you are moving. It is thick and brown and constructed like this:
Whatever you used looks pretty thick, definitely more than paper. You would have to be very careful even picking up a helmet made from paper. You would most likely dent it/squish it when you grab it. With a helmet made from cardstock you would be able to toss it in the air and catch it and it would still be fine. Hope that helps.
Ok, here's a pic of my new helmet done with stronger paper:
I have yet another question:
It's time to fiberglass it. The "face" part is taped to the rest of the helmet, because the rest of the helmet doesn't have the exact same shape to fit the face. I know you guys fiberglass everything together and also apply the bondo with both pieces attached. My question is: how do youseparte them later? do you use some kind of saw?
THANKS!!!
I have yet another question:
It's time to fiberglass it. The "face" part is taped to the rest of the helmet, because the rest of the helmet doesn't have the exact same shape to fit the face. I know you guys fiberglass everything together and also apply the bondo with both pieces attached. My question is: how do youseparte them later? do you use some kind of saw?
THANKS!!!
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Well, there is not just one way of doing it. Each way has it's pros and cons. If you fiberglass it as one piece then the helmet will be more likely to hold its shape and fit together better once you are done. However, as you mentioned it would be more work to separate the faceplate after the fiberglass.
If you fiberglass them separately then the pieces will most likely not fit back together the same way and will require a lot of 'heat tweaking' to get it right again.
I plan on trying a couple of different ways. I am going for something in between the two options mentioned above, a compromise of sorts. First, I will fiberglass the faceplate and the rest of the helmet as one piece but I am going to put a spacer about the thickness of a toothpick in between the faceplate and the helmet in several places. So in theory, this will help the pieces retain their shape better than fiberglassing them separately but they will be easier to cut apart.
Second, I could use tin foil in between the faceplate and the helmet. It has been said that resin and fiberglass does not stick to tin foil. So in theory the faceplate would peel right off of the helmet after I am finished.
As I said I haven't tried either of these yet but those are my ideas for handling this issue. You are welcome to try them... post back here and let us know how it goes.
If you fiberglass them separately then the pieces will most likely not fit back together the same way and will require a lot of 'heat tweaking' to get it right again.
I plan on trying a couple of different ways. I am going for something in between the two options mentioned above, a compromise of sorts. First, I will fiberglass the faceplate and the rest of the helmet as one piece but I am going to put a spacer about the thickness of a toothpick in between the faceplate and the helmet in several places. So in theory, this will help the pieces retain their shape better than fiberglassing them separately but they will be easier to cut apart.
Second, I could use tin foil in between the faceplate and the helmet. It has been said that resin and fiberglass does not stick to tin foil. So in theory the faceplate would peel right off of the helmet after I am finished.
As I said I haven't tried either of these yet but those are my ideas for handling this issue. You are welcome to try them... post back here and let us know how it goes.
Thanks man! Did I tell you tou rock? YOU ROCK!!!
I'm going on vacations tomorrow, I'll be back in a week. Can't wait to try what ypu said then!
THANKS again!!!
Velociraptor
New Member
Bless you ROBO3687 and your hard work. You have given me another hobby and a reason to get up in the morning.
With that said let me fill you all in.
I started in May 2011 working off and on making the IM MK6. I am using Pepakura and 110 lb card stock along with ROBO3687 files printed with no scale adjustments and it all started after seeing an Indy Mogul episode on making Halo costumes. I am using a contcat glue on the paper called Quick Grip and it comes in a tube and is sold at Wal Mart for $3. Biggest issue is that it always scabs over after you got your dab onto your paper so when you go to dab again you have to peel away the dried glue on the tip. I am alos using 7 oz fiberglass cloth cut into palm size pieces. The cloth is recommended by Burt Rutan for homebuilt airplanes so I figure it will be good for this. I order it in 42" wide rolls at $4 a yard from Aircraft Spruce. I am also useing epoxy resin as apposed to the fiberglass polyester resin. It is much more expensive but the fumes from the other resin would wear my family out in the winter since I am doing all this in the man cave which is our finished basement.
Without going into too much detail I have made several pieces several times including the helmet and the arms. I was not happy with the glue or the glass with the earlier pieces but lately the progress is going really well. I did try the Aqua Resin and I was not happy with it at all.
I have my new helmet glassed and I did glue all three pieces together and then cut them apart. I am really happy with the way it turned out. The plan is to have the entire suit finished by May for Wonderfest 2011. I have yet to bondo and detail any piece yet but I have started adding tabs and hinges to make things fit.
I know you are saying "if there is no picture than it has not happened." Pictures will come soon. There is just not much to show yet, after 80 some pages we have all seen pep'd arms and helmets so no need to show mine. I also bought parts to make a duct tape manequin so I can get the costume off of the pool table.
-Velociraptor
With that said let me fill you all in.
I started in May 2011 working off and on making the IM MK6. I am using Pepakura and 110 lb card stock along with ROBO3687 files printed with no scale adjustments and it all started after seeing an Indy Mogul episode on making Halo costumes. I am using a contcat glue on the paper called Quick Grip and it comes in a tube and is sold at Wal Mart for $3. Biggest issue is that it always scabs over after you got your dab onto your paper so when you go to dab again you have to peel away the dried glue on the tip. I am alos using 7 oz fiberglass cloth cut into palm size pieces. The cloth is recommended by Burt Rutan for homebuilt airplanes so I figure it will be good for this. I order it in 42" wide rolls at $4 a yard from Aircraft Spruce. I am also useing epoxy resin as apposed to the fiberglass polyester resin. It is much more expensive but the fumes from the other resin would wear my family out in the winter since I am doing all this in the man cave which is our finished basement.
Without going into too much detail I have made several pieces several times including the helmet and the arms. I was not happy with the glue or the glass with the earlier pieces but lately the progress is going really well. I did try the Aqua Resin and I was not happy with it at all.
I have my new helmet glassed and I did glue all three pieces together and then cut them apart. I am really happy with the way it turned out. The plan is to have the entire suit finished by May for Wonderfest 2011. I have yet to bondo and detail any piece yet but I have started adding tabs and hinges to make things fit.
I know you are saying "if there is no picture than it has not happened." Pictures will come soon. There is just not much to show yet, after 80 some pages we have all seen pep'd arms and helmets so no need to show mine. I also bought parts to make a duct tape manequin so I can get the costume off of the pool table.
-Velociraptor
UnofficialVoice
New Member
Great models, I love the work!
I have a question that may be a kind of NEWB question: Some of the models are not numbered along the edges... am I missing something? Is that a setting in the viewer? Not sure how to proceed with some of the larger files...
Any feedback would be appreciated!
~UV
I have a question that may be a kind of NEWB question: Some of the models are not numbered along the edges... am I missing something? Is that a setting in the viewer? Not sure how to proceed with some of the larger files...
Any feedback would be appreciated!
~UV
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