STEALTH
Sr Member
thanks for this answer as a lot of people run into this, including myself at times. :thumbsup
robo3687's Iron Man Pep Files - SD War Machine links page 73
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thanks for this answer as a lot of people run into this, including myself at times. :thumbsup
STEALTH
Sr Member
You need to get a dremel rotary tool and cut it in half from the side and join it together when you put it on and off. Like some others have done with their iron man builds. Do some research and take a look at what I'm talking about in regards to this method.
anubis online
Member
wow, 300,000 views. if that many suits get made, and made well, noone who made a suit will mind? or does everyone think that noone will make one? i know so many people who WERE going to work on a amazing iron man costume, only to stop forever when lots of decent, and a few perfect, iron man costumes popped up all over the place.
Another small "round" of questions from me regarding these files / this build:
1) SHOULDER PLATES: I've been looking at photos of people in finished costumes. I just finished building the back yesterday. Haven't had time to try it on it. Been working 12 hour shifts for the past few days. But I've seen photo where it kind of looks like people are connecting the back to the chest and I don't even SEE the shoulder plates ?? Do the shoulder plates actually tuck UNDERNEATH the back and chest ? (I think those plates may be colored gold. I think I see them a bit in a few other photos.) Kind of makes me wonder if, in theory, those pieces are optional. But then again, they may be helpful in connecting and strengthening the overall "upper shell".
2) Looks like some people are using TWO joints / pivot-points on the forearm-elbow? I'm guessing that doing that (instead of using just one pivot point) just makes the whole thing more flexible and comfortable?
3) SPINE: It looks to me like the spine crosses the back, the abs section, and the codpiece. (reference photo: http://img713.imageshack.us/img713/7992/049db.jpg )
How in the heck has anybody connected this thing so that it actually does that? I'm assuming you have to connect it to just ONE piece and hope it lays right over the rest. I can't imagine having three separate snaps or attachment points for this thing. (That'd be a huge pain when putting this on.) From some photos I've seen, it looks like some folks don't even use this piece ?
Thanks!
-= Dave =-
1) SHOULDER PLATES: I've been looking at photos of people in finished costumes. I just finished building the back yesterday. Haven't had time to try it on it. Been working 12 hour shifts for the past few days. But I've seen photo where it kind of looks like people are connecting the back to the chest and I don't even SEE the shoulder plates ?? Do the shoulder plates actually tuck UNDERNEATH the back and chest ? (I think those plates may be colored gold. I think I see them a bit in a few other photos.) Kind of makes me wonder if, in theory, those pieces are optional. But then again, they may be helpful in connecting and strengthening the overall "upper shell".
2) Looks like some people are using TWO joints / pivot-points on the forearm-elbow? I'm guessing that doing that (instead of using just one pivot point) just makes the whole thing more flexible and comfortable?
3) SPINE: It looks to me like the spine crosses the back, the abs section, and the codpiece. (reference photo: http://img713.imageshack.us/img713/7992/049db.jpg )
How in the heck has anybody connected this thing so that it actually does that? I'm assuming you have to connect it to just ONE piece and hope it lays right over the rest. I can't imagine having three separate snaps or attachment points for this thing. (That'd be a huge pain when putting this on.) From some photos I've seen, it looks like some folks don't even use this piece ?
Thanks!
-= Dave =-
a couple of quick questions for those of you who have been working on this armor and have made it to the resin/fiberglassing stage.
How many layer of fiberglass do you put on the inside of these pieces? I have fiberglassed the hand fingers and forarm pieces with a coat of resin on the outside and two layers of fiberglass on the inside and it still has some flexibility to it... I was expecting it to be pretty damn hard/solid/rigid.
Has anyone hear use both the fiberglass method and the slush casting method to reinforce their pepakura pieces (I think the product used is SmoothCast 300)? If so, which did you like more and why?
Thanks
How many layer of fiberglass do you put on the inside of these pieces? I have fiberglassed the hand fingers and forarm pieces with a coat of resin on the outside and two layers of fiberglass on the inside and it still has some flexibility to it... I was expecting it to be pretty damn hard/solid/rigid.
Has anyone hear use both the fiberglass method and the slush casting method to reinforce their pepakura pieces (I think the product used is SmoothCast 300)? If so, which did you like more and why?
Thanks
How many layers of fiberglass do you usually put on your pieces? Anyone is welcome to chime in.
noleafclover614
New Member
Re: robo3687's Iron Man 2 Pep Files - 27/6 first post rewritten, RIGHT LEG in first p
When you say that each layer needs a primer coat, do you mean after each layer of joint compound you then paint it with primer paint? Spray paint?
Drywall Joint Compound. I’ve never used Bondo.
@BaronVonReicher: Excuse me if I go a little over-board. I just want to cover some bases.
No matter what you use, this is the basic concept of smoothing:
With Bondo, you put on a thick coat (the yellow line) and power sand down to the blue line.
Joint Compound is softer and can’t be added that thick. It needs to be added in layers (typically 3 layers will do). It doesn’t get to full strength until it is painted/primed. So, every layer needs a primer coat.
It sounds like a pain in the butt, but:
1. No mixing required. Pre-mixed buckets from Home Depot.
2. Easy to apply. I use my finger while I sit on the couch watching tv.
3. Easy to sand. Softer before painting.
4. Easy clean-up. It’s water-based.
For small fixes I spot-spray Orange Peel Spray Texture on the area and sand away all the access. This stuff is VERY soft. If you leave too much on it will crack/peel.
I’ve been using joint Compound on costumes for 10 years. I don’t go out fighting crime or anything, so I don’t know how it would hold up in that situation, but Halloween, conventions, etc…I haven’t had any problems. And if you molding it…who cares what you use.
So…that’s just the way I do it.:lol
…And here are a few pictures of my helmet and new colors:
When you say that each layer needs a primer coat, do you mean after each layer of joint compound you then paint it with primer paint? Spray paint?
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MightyJohn
Active Member
Re: robo3687's Iron Man 2 Pep Files - 27/6 first post rewritten, RIGHT LEG in first p
Yes. Add a thin layer of compound, let it dry, sand it down then spray it with primer...repeat. Compound is really dry, the primer absorbs into it, kind of like a resin. Using a primer that is different color then the compound is helpful for sanding too. It helps you keep an eye on your layers (don't sand past the last primer stage or you are working backwards).
Heres my lates pic...Stupid camera! Paint still drying...
Yes. Add a thin layer of compound, let it dry, sand it down then spray it with primer...repeat. Compound is really dry, the primer absorbs into it, kind of like a resin. Using a primer that is different color then the compound is helpful for sanding too. It helps you keep an eye on your layers (don't sand past the last primer stage or you are working backwards).
Heres my lates pic...Stupid camera! Paint still drying...
MightyJohn, your work is still looking awesome! It is an inspiration for me. I would like to know how many layers of fiberglass you put on your pieces and also what kind/brand/color of paint are you using? Thanks
MightyJohn
Active Member
Thanks Dericrw. It's been a slow WIP
Thanks darkside501st. I use a coat of resin on the outside and 1 layer of fiberglass mat on the inside. I cut the mat into squares/rectangles no bigger than 4"x4" and make sure they overlap a minimum of 1/2".
I'm currently using Rust-oleum "Merlot" (from lowes) for the red and Rust-olem Metallic "Pure Gold" (From Home Depot) for the gold. Once the whole suit is finished, I might change it.
A little better picture with this crappy camera...
Say, does anybody have any "butt-shots" of this build? I mean, something where you're wearing at least the codpiece and you've taken the photo from the rear... or maybe flanking the rear?
My codpiece SEEMS to fit at the waist and the front but it somehow feels like it is "flying out" in the back. And I'm concerned about how it's supposed to look (plus, of course, I want this thing to be strong enough that I can sit down in it).
Thanks!
My codpiece SEEMS to fit at the waist and the front but it somehow feels like it is "flying out" in the back. And I'm concerned about how it's supposed to look (plus, of course, I want this thing to be strong enough that I can sit down in it).
Thanks!
Laveniuk
Member
Question for MightyJohn,
Is there a specific joint compound that you buy? I seen a couple at the store. There was the regular and this "high strength" stuff.
Also, how hard does this stuff get? You say it should be good for halloween but say i bump into something hard, think it will crack??
Is there a specific joint compound that you buy? I seen a couple at the store. There was the regular and this "high strength" stuff.
Also, how hard does this stuff get? You say it should be good for halloween but say i bump into something hard, think it will crack??
Hey guys... I just wanted to post a link for you all to check out my thread. Robo, I didnt used your files... yet. I hope you don't mind but I was going for the MK III. I have learned a lot by reading through this thread. Everyone posting their work here has been an inspiration for my little project.
My Iron Man gauntlet/arc reactor project
My Iron Man gauntlet/arc reactor project
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