Pep to Molded Plastics War Machine,Gatling Gun,Stronger Mount and Other WM Weaponry!
- Thread starter electraflier
- Start date
electraflier
Well-Known Member
Re: Pep to Molded Plastics War Machine,Gatling Gun,Stronger Mount and Other WM Weapon
Well, that is a fair question. I did look at your video of glassing your spartan helmet and loved the how to! Those helmets are great! The main reason is that since this is a whole suit that has many articulating parts that overlap, I believe a hard thixotropic plastic skin(like a gel coat) with a fiberglass reinforcement would give me more durability and crack/chip resistance than a conventional gel/ glass finish. I have a couple of Iron Man helmets and a WarMachine helmet and the plastic skinned helmets show superior wear resistance over the gel coated one. One of my gel coated faceplates sustained a relatively minor drop and sustained pretty bad chips on the edge that will require alot of effort to fix and that edge will always be more fragile and prone to chips. I want my armor pristine and not battle damaged, so it will have to be pretty straight and smooth.
I want to wear this to multiple cons during several years once it is done and I'm really wanting it as sturdy as possible.
Well, that is a fair question. I did look at your video of glassing your spartan helmet and loved the how to! Those helmets are great! The main reason is that since this is a whole suit that has many articulating parts that overlap, I believe a hard thixotropic plastic skin(like a gel coat) with a fiberglass reinforcement would give me more durability and crack/chip resistance than a conventional gel/ glass finish. I have a couple of Iron Man helmets and a WarMachine helmet and the plastic skinned helmets show superior wear resistance over the gel coated one. One of my gel coated faceplates sustained a relatively minor drop and sustained pretty bad chips on the edge that will require alot of effort to fix and that edge will always be more fragile and prone to chips. I want my armor pristine and not battle damaged, so it will have to be pretty straight and smooth.
I want to wear this to multiple cons during several years once it is done and I'm really wanting it as sturdy as possible.
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Tim Allen
Sr Member
Re: Pep to Molded Plastics War Machine,Gatling Gun,Stronger Mount and Other WM Weapon
I believe you could find a plastic and use it like a gel coat, lightly sand the inside and lay fiberglass in over that. I know some hockey goalie masks are made with a plastic type gel-coat and then glass laid in behind.
I believe you could find a plastic and use it like a gel coat, lightly sand the inside and lay fiberglass in over that. I know some hockey goalie masks are made with a plastic type gel-coat and then glass laid in behind.
Surreal Studios
Well-Known Member
Re: Pep to Molded Plastics War Machine,Gatling Gun,Stronger Mount and Other WM Weapon
No need to sand the plastic if you use epoxy resin with fiberglass cloth to back the part, epoxy bonds to plastic. This is how I do all my casts
No need to sand the plastic if you use epoxy resin with fiberglass cloth to back the part, epoxy bonds to plastic. This is how I do all my casts
electraflier
Well-Known Member
Re: Pep to Molded Plastics War Machine,Gatling Gun,Stronger Mount and Other WM Weapon
Robocop came to mind for me as well, with the gloves! Very happy for just being thin craft foam..:sleep
Just got my Helmet gear/faceplate actuator from Ryan aka TheRealStark and man is it sweet! He even hooked me up with red LEDs!!!:lol The dude seriously rocks!!:cool Please support our resident genius Ryan and buy his great tech!!
I will be posting the progress as I figure out how to mount this awesome stuff! Here is a cross post from Ryans thread. It is related to bolting in the mechanism vs gluing with epoxy.
. http://www.therpf.com/f13/runs-closed-3d-printed-iron-man-motorized-171505-new/
Just my opinion, and I am still probably waiting till Ryan and Matt do the MK3 install videoopcorn (maybe not..depends on if I can cast my shoulder bells this weekend)(Weather will decide for me LOL):confused
I'm most likely going to find a way to bolt mine in with recessed Chicago Screws... The MaskedRider helmet is very thick and you don't need to go deep to epoxy the screws into a mounting hole.Ryans design is great, and there is easily enough extra plastic on the edges of the servo plate to have 2-3, 6-32 holes drilled though it without damaging the strength.
My thought process was what if you break something at a con or some over eager friend or fan damages something?:angry You wont be able to easily fix it... not to mention after you paint it, trying to pry the glued apparatus out of a completed helmet. :unsure
I have aready decided to velcro in the batteries and the Arduino boards. You need a cover over the Arduino. Probably a thin 1/32 phenolic plastic sheet coated with a thin piece of velcro'd on craft foam, wires to be tack glued to the inside of helmet with small dabs of hot glue and bolt the face plate to the armature and the drive/servo plate to the helmet with chicago screws....
I have some thoughts about magnets on the armature and the faceplate? It would be cool to be able to "rip" the face plate off if an emergency or if it got caught on something, it would pop off rather than stripping the servo or breaking the armature:cry... still brain storming.:wacko
Robocop came to mind for me as well, with the gloves! Very happy for just being thin craft foam..:sleep
Just got my Helmet gear/faceplate actuator from Ryan aka TheRealStark and man is it sweet! He even hooked me up with red LEDs!!!:lol The dude seriously rocks!!:cool Please support our resident genius Ryan and buy his great tech!!
I will be posting the progress as I figure out how to mount this awesome stuff! Here is a cross post from Ryans thread. It is related to bolting in the mechanism vs gluing with epoxy.
. http://www.therpf.com/f13/runs-closed-3d-printed-iron-man-motorized-171505-new/
Just my opinion, and I am still probably waiting till Ryan and Matt do the MK3 install video
opcorn (maybe not..depends on if I can cast my shoulder bells this weekend)(Weather will decide for me LOL):confused I'm most likely going to find a way to bolt mine in with recessed Chicago Screws... The MaskedRider helmet is very thick and you don't need to go deep to epoxy the screws into a mounting hole.Ryans design is great, and there is easily enough extra plastic on the edges of the servo plate to have 2-3, 6-32 holes drilled though it without damaging the strength.
My thought process was what if you break something at a con or some over eager friend or fan damages something?:angry You wont be able to easily fix it... not to mention after you paint it, trying to pry the glued apparatus out of a completed helmet. :unsure
I have aready decided to velcro in the batteries and the Arduino boards. You need a cover over the Arduino. Probably a thin 1/32 phenolic plastic sheet coated with a thin piece of velcro'd on craft foam, wires to be tack glued to the inside of helmet with small dabs of hot glue and bolt the face plate to the armature and the drive/servo plate to the helmet with chicago screws....
I have some thoughts about magnets on the armature and the faceplate? It would be cool to be able to "rip" the face plate off if an emergency or if it got caught on something, it would pop off rather than stripping the servo or breaking the armature:cry... still brain storming.:wacko
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electraflier
Well-Known Member
Re: Pep to Molded Plastics War Machine,Gatling Gun,Stronger Mount and Other WM Weapon
So I wanted to post some progress on my War Machine Helmet, with faceplate mechanism! This is only a test fit. Nothing is permanently attached to the helmet as it needs tweeking and ultimately paint. Even the eyes are only taped into place without the lenses for effect.
I am using TheRealStarks stunning faceplate mechanism and the beautiful MaskedRider War Machine Helmet!
Please read this disclaimer before you go on!
Disclaimer. Everything I am posting here was done/ is being done with the full awareness and very helpful cooperation of Ryan aka TheRealStark and Leslee aka MaskedRider. If you have any questions at all, please ask me immediately and I will answer as quickly as possible.
Ryan has done his usual outstanding job of creating a Hardware/Software interface that is ideal for our Iron Man/ War Machine builds.
I received mine in the mail and closely watched Ryans very clear instruction video. I bench tested the assembled mechanism of of the helmet and it is wonderful!!
Ryan has done a great job of generalizing and creating a mechanism that should work in multiple different helmet applications if the measurements are the same as the ones Ryan lists in his thread.
That makes it a perfect basic(you will have to modify several parts) fit for Leslee's War Machine helmet! The key measurement is the width of the "Widows Peak" in the center of the helmet.
Here is the mechanism installed!
Please be aware as well that, in this particular instance, this IS NOT a plug and play assembly! Ryan has put a ton of work into making this as fool proof as possible but that said, here is some information concerning the install into my MaskedRider helmet.
Leslee made the helmet very strong and it is solid as heck, made out of fiberglass. The inner part of the widows peak is curved and angled, so a plate of Syntra was cut to the exact outline of the servo plate and actually sanded to an angle (like a door stop). This will act as a shim to level out the servoplate and bring it into a more appropriate position.
You can see in this picture I hacked out some of the area next to the widows peak to accept the lift armatures... This is not completed as I am deciding just how much of a lip to leave around the edges. I think 1/4 inch will work nicely to act as a catch and work to keep the faceplate from sagging in when it is closed.
The tape you see is to allow me to use hot glue for a test fit. I did not want to put hot glue on the helmet or parts that need to be mounted as the hot glue can be a bear to get off!!
I intend to mount the servo plate with recessed in Chicago screws to allow for removal/repairs ect.
Please be aware that I have over 30 years experience building custom R/C Airplanes as I tell you about these next steps.. I am not at all a master builder, but alot of the airplanes I built needed pretty heavy mods to fit all the equipment/servos/retracts/flaps ect. Soooo, I have experience...of a sort LOL!
The angle of the armatures was too angled for my taste. It would have required a rather thick shim between the rotating center section between the armatures and the faceplate to make contact. This adds weight as well to the faceplate, an issue I will talk about later.. Ryan mentions this shim in his tutorial... I did not want to do this, so I used my heat gun to change the angle of the armatures.wacko
Disclaimer 2. I do not suggest this or recommend it. I did it at full risk, knowing that I could damage it or render the 3D printed parts useless!!
When heating I went slow! The armatures are made from plastic designed for 3D printing. As such it is light and hard, yet it goes soft suddenly and stays soft again until it has cooled. I was able to take a large part of the angle out. If you want to explore this more please ask or if enough War Machine guys are interested I will take pictures and explore a how to. You can see in the above picture it worked great.
Stay away from the ends, only work the center of the arm and for the love of all that is holy, Do not keep it assembeld as you try heating things up. This material will weld itself together and destroy your parts!
The only thing I had to fix after doing this was to re drill the lightening holes on the armatures using my drill press, as the center holes in the arms went a little oval. No harm no foul right.
Next I attached my faceplate. As I have said the MaskedRider helmet is made out of fiberglass. It is heavy. The servo is rated at 38 oz of torque..... that is not the same as a dead lift of the heavy face plate. :sick
After some trials, I too managed to burn out my booster board #1$
I talked to Ryan and ordered another on line, a simple resolder, and I was back in business!:love
Wrong, I had taken the faceplate off for this retest. I bench tested it again and.....pause for effect.... it burned that booster board out as well :sick ....
I did some brainstorming and determined that I had burned out the super heavy duty metal geared servo during my initial Heavy Face Plate test, so that shorted out the new board.
Poor Ryan LOL! after bugging Ryan again, and again *sigh* and again, (he was so helpful and great through the trouble shooting) I decided to do a direct wire to a six volt NIMH R/C battery pack I had lying about. I ended up with this LOL!opcorn
I know it looks a jumbled, mess, but that is my doing. Ryans looks much more stream lined, as will mine when I rewire and put new switches in. As I chose to use an R/C pack, I no longer have the recharge mode on the booster, but a slow charger is like 6 $ I had several lying about, so no cost for me.. It would probably be better to have Ryan talk you through this wiring, but suffice to say it works like a charm now!
Now on too the next issue....opcorn:eek
I could not risk using the heavy faceplate again and had to think of a good solution.cheers:cheers:cheers:cheers)
The MaskedRider facelplate is flawless, but heavy. I wrote to Leslee and he basicallytold me was very sorry to hear that I was having issues due to the weight of the faceplate (this not his fault at all, he builds a superior quality helmet) and Leslee explained that he was limited to the materials that he has available in the Philippines....basically fiberglass.
I tried to sand the inside of the faceplate down to thin it out, but quickly realized that I would likely destroy this faceplate before it was ever light enough to not threaten the electronic package.
Back to my disclaimer. I asked Leslee if he was ok if I were to make A (1) single copy of his faceplate to cast in plastic and epoximite. This combo is literally 1/3 the total weight of the original.. Honestly Leslees helmet might be the real War Machine helmet!! It is strong!
He said "yes that it was ok with him". I was very honored at his permission and even more honored that he has noticed my War Machine build and said to me that he "likes the direction I am taking it in!!!"
I want everyone to be clear on this.
I am making only what I need to solve this situation with Master Leslees' permission. I will not under any conditions make more. The mold has already been destroyed and I will not entertain even one request for a copy. I hate recasters with a passion and think they are the lowest of the low to steal anothers hard work.
For those who are in the same boat as I was, Master Leslee is a very gracious and helpful person. If you need his advice or help please talk to or PM him. Do not take the permission he granted me as blanket permission to recast his awesome work.
That said, here is a video of the helmet and mechanism in action!!opcorn:thumbsup
Sorry about the skinny video. Here is the link!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=58BeX47B55s#t=2s
The wires will be shortend and they only go to that small orange 6v battery pack. All parts, wires and batteries will be placed in the helmet as this is designed to be a self contained set up!!!
M
So I wanted to post some progress on my War Machine Helmet, with faceplate mechanism! This is only a test fit. Nothing is permanently attached to the helmet as it needs tweeking and ultimately paint. Even the eyes are only taped into place without the lenses for effect.
I am using TheRealStarks stunning faceplate mechanism and the beautiful MaskedRider War Machine Helmet!
Please read this disclaimer before you go on!
Disclaimer. Everything I am posting here was done/ is being done with the full awareness and very helpful cooperation of Ryan aka TheRealStark and Leslee aka MaskedRider. If you have any questions at all, please ask me immediately and I will answer as quickly as possible.
Ryan has done his usual outstanding job of creating a Hardware/Software interface that is ideal for our Iron Man/ War Machine builds.
I received mine in the mail and closely watched Ryans very clear instruction video. I bench tested the assembled mechanism of of the helmet and it is wonderful!!
Ryan has done a great job of generalizing and creating a mechanism that should work in multiple different helmet applications if the measurements are the same as the ones Ryan lists in his thread.
That makes it a perfect basic(you will have to modify several parts) fit for Leslee's War Machine helmet! The key measurement is the width of the "Widows Peak" in the center of the helmet.
Here is the mechanism installed!
Please be aware as well that, in this particular instance, this IS NOT a plug and play assembly! Ryan has put a ton of work into making this as fool proof as possible but that said, here is some information concerning the install into my MaskedRider helmet.
Leslee made the helmet very strong and it is solid as heck, made out of fiberglass. The inner part of the widows peak is curved and angled, so a plate of Syntra was cut to the exact outline of the servo plate and actually sanded to an angle (like a door stop). This will act as a shim to level out the servoplate and bring it into a more appropriate position.
You can see in this picture I hacked out some of the area next to the widows peak to accept the lift armatures... This is not completed as I am deciding just how much of a lip to leave around the edges. I think 1/4 inch will work nicely to act as a catch and work to keep the faceplate from sagging in when it is closed.
The tape you see is to allow me to use hot glue for a test fit. I did not want to put hot glue on the helmet or parts that need to be mounted as the hot glue can be a bear to get off!!
I intend to mount the servo plate with recessed in Chicago screws to allow for removal/repairs ect.
Please be aware that I have over 30 years experience building custom R/C Airplanes as I tell you about these next steps.. I am not at all a master builder, but alot of the airplanes I built needed pretty heavy mods to fit all the equipment/servos/retracts/flaps ect. Soooo, I have experience...of a sort LOL!
The angle of the armatures was too angled for my taste. It would have required a rather thick shim between the rotating center section between the armatures and the faceplate to make contact. This adds weight as well to the faceplate, an issue I will talk about later.. Ryan mentions this shim in his tutorial... I did not want to do this, so I used my heat gun to change the angle of the armatures.
wackoDisclaimer 2. I do not suggest this or recommend it. I did it at full risk, knowing that I could damage it or render the 3D printed parts useless!!
When heating I went slow! The armatures are made from plastic designed for 3D printing. As such it is light and hard, yet it goes soft suddenly and stays soft again until it has cooled. I was able to take a large part of the angle out. If you want to explore this more please ask or if enough War Machine guys are interested I will take pictures and explore a how to. You can see in the above picture it worked great.
Stay away from the ends, only work the center of the arm and for the love of all that is holy, Do not keep it assembeld as you try heating things up. This material will weld itself together and destroy your parts!
The only thing I had to fix after doing this was to re drill the lightening holes on the armatures using my drill press, as the center holes in the arms went a little oval. No harm no foul right.
Next I attached my faceplate. As I have said the MaskedRider helmet is made out of fiberglass. It is heavy. The servo is rated at 38 oz of torque.....
that is not the same as a dead lift of the heavy face plate. :sickAfter some trials, I too managed to burn out my booster board #1
$I talked to Ryan and ordered another on line, a simple resolder, and I was back in business!:love
Wrong, I had taken the faceplate off for this retest. I bench tested it again and.....pause for effect.... it burned that booster board out as well :sick ....
I did some brainstorming and determined that I had burned out the super heavy duty metal geared servo during my initial Heavy Face Plate test, so that shorted out the new board.
Poor Ryan LOL! after bugging Ryan again, and again *sigh* and again, (he was so helpful and great through the trouble shooting) I decided to do a direct wire to a six volt NIMH R/C battery pack I had lying about. I ended up with this LOL!
opcorn
I know it looks a jumbled, mess, but that is my doing. Ryans looks much more stream lined, as will mine when I rewire and put new switches in. As I chose to use an R/C pack, I no longer have the recharge mode on the booster, but a slow charger is like 6 $ I had several lying about, so no cost for me.. It would probably be better to have Ryan talk you through this wiring, but suffice to say it works like a charm now!
Now on too the next issue....
opcorn:eekI could not risk using the heavy faceplate again and had to think of a good solution.
cheers:cheers:cheers:cheers)The MaskedRider facelplate is flawless, but heavy. I wrote to Leslee and he basicallytold me was very sorry to hear that I was having issues due to the weight of the faceplate (this not his fault at all, he builds a superior quality helmet) and Leslee explained that he was limited to the materials that he has available in the Philippines....basically fiberglass.
I tried to sand the inside of the faceplate down to thin it out, but quickly realized that I would likely destroy this faceplate before it was ever light enough to not threaten the electronic package.
Back to my disclaimer. I asked Leslee if he was ok if I were to make A (1) single copy of his faceplate to cast in plastic and epoximite. This combo is literally 1/3 the total weight of the original.. Honestly Leslees helmet might be the real War Machine helmet!! It is strong!
He said "yes that it was ok with him". I was very honored at his permission and even more honored that he has noticed my War Machine build and said to me that he "likes the direction I am taking it in!!!"
I want everyone to be clear on this.
I am making only what I need to solve this situation with Master Leslees' permission. I will not under any conditions make more. The mold has already been destroyed and I will not entertain even one request for a copy. I hate recasters with a passion and think they are the lowest of the low to steal anothers hard work.
For those who are in the same boat as I was, Master Leslee is a very gracious and helpful person. If you need his advice or help please talk to or PM him. Do not take the permission he granted me as blanket permission to recast his awesome work.
That said, here is a video of the helmet and mechanism in action!!
opcorn:thumbsupSorry about the skinny video. Here is the link!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=58BeX47B55s#t=2s
The wires will be shortend and they only go to that small orange 6v battery pack. All parts, wires and batteries will be placed in the helmet as this is designed to be a self contained set up!!!
M
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Re: Pep to Molded Plastics War Machine,Gatling Gun,Stronger Mount and Other WM Weapon
Great update Electriaflier, cool that you were able to work through the bugs. Also awesome that you were able to cast a lighter faceplate. Explaining it here=very smart idea, before anybody jumps to conclusions on what you did and who you talked to. Look forward to seeing more progress!!thumbsupopcorn
Great update Electriaflier, cool that you were able to work through the bugs. Also awesome that you were able to cast a lighter faceplate. Explaining it here=very smart idea, before anybody jumps to conclusions on what you did and who you talked to. Look forward to seeing more progress!!
thumbsupopcorn
propnoob74
Well-Known Member
Re: Pep to Molded Plastics War Machine,Gatling Gun,Stronger Mount and Other WM Weapon
Wow! amazing. I have not being able to work on my suit, well you know my son is keeping me awake at odd times. I will be looking at your posts.....
Wow! amazing. I have not being able to work on my suit, well you know my son is keeping me awake at odd times. I will be looking at your posts.....
guitarakizta
Active Member
Re: Pep to Molded Plastics War Machine,Gatling Gun,Finally mounting the track for gun
:thumbsup
awesome! sir what kind of rails i this..?Thanks Douglaz and WesR!
Man I thought I'd never be well again!:cry 5 weeks and 2 cycles of antibiotics and I am finally 96% well!!!:confused
Back to work on my armor as well!:love
As I stated, I hated the pepakura back on my war machine...It had a very sad lack of detail, so I cut it out! Here is the back sans center section. I am also experimenting with sculpting some clay to get special details...not happy, but for a first attempt, ill not complain too much.:unsure
Today I cut some pvc plastic sheet 1/4 inch and using my heat gun, I bent and formed the sheet to perfect shape for mounting to the back! I did mold and pour a nice flat rondo lip to recieve the back plate... the epoxy riveted it into place and the back is now as firm or firmer than it was.
Here is how it looks from the other side.
I am also using the PVC sheet to bring in some of the armor details that needed to be raised and sharp..if you look to the lower left tip you can see some of the detail. I'll go into more on that later, with more close ups.
Now that I have a clean, flat, secure base to attach it too here is the long awaited track system that will eventually hold the inside part of the mini gun armature!!
This is a track with about 100 bearings and a flexible inner track that even with the curve put into it allows the track to move from left to right like butter! I hated the idea of the mini gun always being stuck on one side. I am sure Mk1 will be simply moved by my helper at my first con, but as time passes I will get it more sophisticated.:cool
The minigun armature will come in through a slit in the top rear of the armor to attach to the mountng plate.
:love
There still are some mods I need to make to the track, but I am very happy with the way it fits and moves!:$
The final out come will hopefully be a fully Arduino controled minigun, but more than likely the early test phase will be an external R/C system using my old 12 channel R/C radio and a helper that stands off a little, sort of like they do with the R2D2s at comicon.
I might try to recruit Ryan aka therealstark to give me lots of input!! :confused The man is truly a genius!
I want the gun to move right shoulder to left and back as well and up and down and a fully active pivot on the gun itself!:cool
A big shout out to my very very good friend David aka Propnoob74 who is also building a War Machine and helping me with mine in too many ways to list! I wish you were here Mi Amigo!
Got your Corona right here and ready to celebrate the Holidays!:cheers
:thumbsupSurreal Studios
Well-Known Member
Re: Pep to Molded Plastics War Machine,Gatling Gun,Stronger Mount and Other WM Weapon
Nice work Michael !
Nice work Michael !
electraflier
Well-Known Member
Re: Pep to Molded Plastics War Machine,Gatling Gun,Stronger Mount and Other WM Weapon
Thanks! Laellee, Leslee is an outstanding builder and he quickly grasped my need for a lighter faceplate. His generosity has allowed me to move quickly on with my build.. (if you call me quick LOL)
I simply could not do this without talking to Leslee or explaining what I was doing.The folks here on the RPF are serious and know their stuff. Not only would it have been wrong to make a copy and not asked his permission, anyone who knows MaskedRiders incredible work can see it is clearly a different faceplate and I could not explain my fixes and how I am doing my WIP without telling how I actually lightened it to make my fixes work!:unsure I think that is clear LOL!:wacko
I intend to be here building for a long time and honesty and integrity are one thing that I value and love on the RPF. Those few that compromise their ethics and betray the trust of the other RPF members risk loosing something valuable and wonderful to belong too and be part of!
Great update Electriaflier, cool that you were able to work through the bugs. Also awesome that you were able to cast a lighter faceplate. Explaining it here=very smart idea, before anybody jumps to conclusions on what you did and who you talked to. Look forward to seeing more progress!!
Thanks! Laellee, Leslee is an outstanding builder and he quickly grasped my need for a lighter faceplate. His generosity has allowed me to move quickly on with my build.. (if you call me quick LOL)
I simply could not do this without talking to Leslee or explaining what I was doing.The folks here on the RPF are serious and know their stuff. Not only would it have been wrong to make a copy and not asked his permission, anyone who knows MaskedRiders incredible work can see it is clearly a different faceplate and I could not explain my fixes and how I am doing my WIP without telling how I actually lightened it to make my fixes work!:unsure I think that is clear LOL!:wacko
I intend to be here building for a long time and honesty and integrity are one thing that I value and love on the RPF. Those few that compromise their ethics and betray the trust of the other RPF members risk loosing something valuable and wonderful to belong too and be part of!
electraflier
Well-Known Member
Re: Pep to Molded Plastics War Machine,Gatling Gun,Finally mounting the track for gun
These are drawer rails for a very heavy metal drawer, that I picked up for 5$ a piece at SkyCraft Surplus here in Orlando.. Scored a set and they didnt have but those. What I liked is that these have bearings and a double set of tracks in the rails. Makes it roll butter smooth. I did have to shorten them and cut the "ears" off that screwed to the drawer...love them and they function just as well after I bent in a curve!
awesome! sir what kind of rails i this..?
These are drawer rails for a very heavy metal drawer, that I picked up for 5$ a piece at SkyCraft Surplus here in Orlando.. Scored a set and they didnt have but those. What I liked is that these have bearings and a double set of tracks in the rails. Makes it roll butter smooth. I did have to shorten them and cut the "ears" off that screwed to the drawer...love them and they function just as well after I bent in a curve!
electraflier
Well-Known Member
Re: Pep to Molded Plastics War Machine,Gatling Gun,Stronger Mount and Other WM Weapon
Thanks Matt, but most of the credit goes to Ryan and Leslee here! I simply installed their excellent tech!
But thank you! It works great and looks so cool!
M
Thanks Matt, but most of the credit goes to Ryan and Leslee here! I simply installed their excellent tech!
But thank you! It works great and looks so cool!
M
electraflier
Well-Known Member
Re: Pep to Molded Plastics War Machine,Gatling Gun,Stronger Mount and Other WM Weapon
Whoowhoo! Thanks to Matt aka Master Surreal for giving me some advice that greatly improved my finished product!thumbsup
After two failed attempts however I had to make the decision to cut my mother mold in half. I could not get my part out without severe damage.:sick
Thanks David aka Propnoob for telling me to man up and cut the D#$% thing!devil
It seems my undercuts were too deep to allow the silicon to be released from the mother mold resulting in damaged (cracked and broken *sigh* ok they shattered:cry) moldings when I pulled on the silicon.
Here is a picture of the first bell that turned out!opcorn
It's far from perfect and I still need practice, but this turned out usable! I think the next few pulls will be worthy.
Whoowhoo! Thanks to Matt aka Master Surreal for giving me some advice that greatly improved my finished product!
thumbsupAfter two failed attempts however I had to make the decision to cut my mother mold in half. I could not get my part out without severe damage.:sick
Thanks David aka Propnoob for telling me to man up and cut the D#$% thing!
devilIt seems my undercuts were too deep to allow the silicon to be released from the mother mold resulting in damaged (cracked and broken *sigh* ok they shattered:cry) moldings when I pulled on the silicon.
Here is a picture of the first bell that turned out!
opcorn
It's far from perfect and I still need practice, but this turned out usable! I think the next few pulls will be worthy.
propnoob74
Well-Known Member
Re: Pep to Molded Plastics War Machine,Gatling Gun,Stronger Mount and Other WM Weapon
Niceeeee!!!! get to work on the chest now hahahahahaha
Niceeeee!!!! get to work on the chest now hahahahahaha
