chubsANDdoggers

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
STL files for FDM printing available as well.


Recently tried my hand at duplicating Kenobi’s lightsaber and eventually landed on the “Chronicles” version simply because I liked the way it looked the most. With the added screws and pins on Graflex it really makes it quite unique in its appearance. All parts are threaded together with a couple press fits. Everything was designed up in Solidworks and then printed on a Bambu lab P1S FDM printer using multiple color PLA filaments as needed (TI Exactra is the only PETG print -transparent). This saber is made up from over 30 individually printed parts and cosmetically I believe it to be very accurate to the actual prop itself. I even got all the groves (booster, grenade, grenade neck.. ) to line up just as they did on the film prop itself. The inside thought has been modified slightly in some areas for assembly as well as some parts modified to reduce the use of supports when printing. Less supports = cleaner print.

I did add the writing onto the Windvane even though it doesn’t seem to be legible on the prop its self. The reason for that is because when researching this saber I found that pretty much every real part OB1 build has this writing engraved.. some just warn off to the point of vanishing. So I imagine thats the case with Kenobi’s saber as well? I also simply like things to be detailed and this was not only fun to add but also fun to figure out what was actually written there. Plus its easily removable if desired.

This is basically an interest thread to see if anyone would like to have one of these prints for themselves? $65 plus shipping is a fair price to ask I believe. Takes about 2/3 days to print each saber because it’s so detailed as well as using individual colored parts. The files are each printed at .012mm layer height using a variety of Bambu labs different colored PLA filament. Again the transparent Exactra replica part alone is printed in BL’s PETG. But the end result is pretty nice and I’d be honored to share for those that do take an interest.

I know its a 3d printed lightsaber and printed mostly in PLA at that. But for those of us that are on a budget yet still want something really detailed and very accurate to display I don‘t think one can do much better..

Here’s a pic of the actual prop that was the goal when replicating. I edited together a couple of the cleanest photos I found here on TheRPF..
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Here is some progress pics from the final CAD rendering to initial prints along the way. Some parts have been modified further since these were taken as everything continued to progressed towards its final form. While I’m not new to 3d printing, I am new to using an in home FDM printing so there was/is a learning curve as well that also progressed to the final version that eventually came to be. Specifically on the Graflex I needed to figure out the best way to print it without leaving support scaring. These pictures below are prior to that discovery but I eventually figured it out. @BeYourOwnScoundrel is simply my Instagram page for those that question why thats there. It’s the only real social media I use daily as I try to limit those endeavors..
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I should also mention that for the Armitage Shanks water faucet hand wheel there is two styles I’ve seen and both of those have been replicated as well. You can even choose “c” or “h”. Haven’t designed up the “h” just yet but that would only take a second to do and I’d be more than happy to accommodate. It‘s what makes all this fun!

When this specific part is printed flat on the print bed the layer lines are super noticeable but the print itself is clean all over. But I didn‘t want those layer lines so I keep experimenting to get it as smooth as possible which eventually required it to be printed on an angle with supports. This first photo below is the first run though of said experiment and you can see the improvements even with that blemish. But I was able to smooth that out even further buy creating my own supports within the design (see final two pics) but the trade off was the inside does look awful. Its a worth while trade off IMHO though as the outside is almost perfect..
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Recently tried my hand at duplicating Kenobi’s lightsaber and eventually landed on the “Chronicles” version simply because I liked the way it looked the most. With the added screws and pins on Graflex it really makes it quite unique in its appearance. All parts are threaded together with a couple press fits. Everything was designed up in Solidworks and then printed on a Bambu lab P1S FDM printer using multiple color PLA filaments as needed (TI Exactra is the only PETG print -transparent). This saber is made up from over 30 individually printed parts and cosmetically I believe it to be very accurate to the actual prop itself. I even got all the groves (booster, grenade, grenade neck.. ) to line up just as they did on the film prop itself. The inside thought has been modified slightly in some areas for assembly as well as some parts modified to reduce the use of supports when printing. Less supports = cleaner print.

I did add the writing onto the Windvane even though it doesn’t seem to be legible on the prop its self. The reason for that is because when researching this saber I found that pretty much every real part OB1 build has this writing engraved.. some just warn off to the point of vanishing. So I imagine thats the case with Kenobi’s saber as well? I also simply like things to be detailed and this was not only fun to add but also fun to figure out what was actually written there. Plus its easily removable if desired.

This is basically an interest thread to see if anyone would like to have one of these prints for themselves? $65 plus shipping is a fair price to ask I believe. Takes about 2/3 days to print each saber because it’s so detailed as well as using individual colored parts. The files are each printed at .012mm layer height using a variety of Bambu labs different colored PLA filament. Again the transparent Exactra replica part alone is printed in BL’s PETG. But the end result is pretty nice and I’d be honored to share for those that do take an interest.

I know its a 3d printed lightsaber and printed mostly in PLA at that. But for those of us that are on a budget yet still want something really detailed and very accurate to display I don‘t think one can do much better..

Here’s a pic of the actual prop that was the goal when replicating. I edited together a couple of the cleanest photos I found here on TheRPF..View attachment 1739234

Here is some progress pics from the final CAD rendering to initial prints along the way. Some parts have been modified further since these were taken as everything continued to progressed towards its final form. While I’m not new to 3d printing, I am new to using an in home FDM printing so there was/is a learning curve as well that also progressed to the final version that eventually came to be. Specifically on the Graflex I needed to figure out the best way to print it without leaving support scaring. These pictures below are prior to that discovery but I eventually figured it out. @BeYourOwnScoundrel is simply my Instagram page for those that question why thats there. It’s the only real social media I use daily as I try to limit those endeavors..View attachment 1739299View attachment 1739300View attachment 1739301View attachment 1739302View attachment 1739303View attachment 1739304View attachment 1739305View attachment 1739306View attachment 1739307View attachment 1739308View attachment 1739309View attachment 1739310View attachment 1739311View attachment 1739313View attachment 1739314View attachment 1739315View attachment 1739316View attachment 1739318View attachment 1739319View attachment 1739320
Been going back through these pics. It’s pretty awesome how you’ve made all these separate pieces fit together with essentially the same design as the original prop. Great job.
 
I should also mention that for the Armitage Shanks water faucet hand wheel there is two styles I’ve seen and both of those have been replicated as well. You can even choose “c” or “h”. Haven’t designed up the “h” just yet but that would only take a second to do and I’d be more than happy to accommodate. It‘s what makes all this fun!

When this specific part is printed flat on the print bed the layer lines are super noticeable but the print itself is clean all over. But I didn‘t want those layer lines so I keep experimenting to get it as smooth as possible which eventually required it to be printed on an angle with supports. This first photo below is the first run though of said experiment and you can see the improvements even with that blemish. But I was able to smooth that out even further buy creating my own supports within the design (see final two pics) but the trade off was the inside does look awful. Its a worth while trade off IMHO though as the outside is almost perfect..View attachment 1739417View attachment 1739418
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Any idea what was on the prop? C or H?
 
Can‘t believe that’s an FDM print! Outstanding work!

Really hoping Bambu makes a large format printer sooner...

Sean
 
Any idea what was on the prop? C or H?

Honestly I don’t think anyone really knows. Not even sure it was ever even on the prop itself to begin with. It’s one of those things where people included it when rebuilding it because it’s simply a cleaner look. The Tunisia saber doesn’t have that cap I don’t believe and if it doesn’t have it there’s a good change none of the versions actually had it. Makes sense to leave it off as the writing is obviously in english and that wouldn’t be very appropriate for a galaxy far, far away… ?
 
Can‘t believe that’s an FDM print! Outstanding work!

Really hoping Bambu makes a large format printer sooner...

Sean

There’s a big announcement tomorrow (Sept 20th). So who knows what Bambu Labs has in-store for us. But ya these prints are pretty amazing. These files are really detailed and that’s part of my obsession in recreating this stuff. Might be too much for some but for me that all part of fun. So far this P1S printer I have handles these designs without much hick-up. Including threaded parts. Usually when there is a fail it’s generally something I did.. not the printer itself. This saber is cool but the fact that it printed this blaster still blows my mind. I did have to modify some parts so there is minimal overhangs and if so make them as much a 45 degree angle as possible but still this functions as it should. Crazy!
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Honestly I don’t think anyone really knows. Not even sure it was ever even on the prop itself to begin with. It’s one of those things where people included it when rebuilding it because it’s simply a cleaner look. The Tunisia saber doesn’t have that cap I don’t believe and if it doesn’t have it there’s a good change none of the versions actually had it. Makes sense to leave it off as the writing is obviously in english and that wouldn’t be very appropriate for a galaxy far, far away… ?
Wasn't the Chronicles book photographed and released after filming in Tunisia? Thus if the Chronicles saber is the Tunisia saber with one of the washers on the transistors fallen off, it would be safe to assume the Chronicles doesn't have the cap on the sink knob either
 
That would make sense to me too, sort of. It’s kind of a neat distinction of the Chronicles (English writing notwithstanding) if it was there. In my mind the Chronicles is a little like the PS DL44. Parts were on screen (scope in the case of the blaster) and others weren’t (the end cap, the ring clamp, etc. in the case of the saber). So the more of those little distinctions, the cooler of a version it is to build. But, if it wasn’t on the screen hero at all, I could see that the prop builders wouldn’t put it on any version, but the guys that rebuild them for the archives likely didnt sweat these differences and so may have added the cap there just because they didn’t study the hero that closely and, well, the cap seems to go there.
 
Wasn't the Chronicles book photographed and released after filming in Tunisia? Thus if the Chronicles saber is the Tunisia saber with one of the washers on the transistors fallen off, it would be safe to assume the Chronicles doesn't have the cap on the sink knob either

Process of elimination would definitely head in that direction. It’s just that most Obi-Wan saber replicas (real parts or not) seem to include the h/c cap and since I’m only a novice in these details I’d hate to mislead anyone in what is or isn’t accurate when it comes to that cap.

Personally what I’ve learned is that I would agree in exactly what u are saying. Makes sense that if it wasn’t on the Tunisia then it wouldn’t be on the SWC. But again I’ve only recently started looking into this prop so… ?
 
It’s just that most Obi-Wan saber replicas (real parts or not) seem to include the h/c cap and since I’m only a novice in these details I’d hate to mislead anyone in what is or isn’t accurate when it comes to that cap.
If DaveP is including the end cap as an optional extra on his Obi Static run despite believing it wasn't on the prop for the people who want one, I'd say it isn't a bad idea to model and include the STL for it on yours
 
The pommel does not look accurate. Especially the end.

It’s the radius. I think that’s what’s raising the red flag for you. It’s something I’ve gone back and forth with within the design. Some days I feel it’s not *round enough and other days I think it looks pretty good as is. Happy you see it as well honestly and I appreciate the feedback.
 
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It’s the radius. I think that’s what’s raising the red flag for you. It’s something I’ve gone back and forth with within the design. Some days I feel it’s not sharp enough and other days I think it looks pretty good as is. Happy you see it as well honestly and I appreciate the feedback.
Yes it is kinda tricky. I don’t think I am happy with mine either.
 

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