spider2465
Well-Known Member
It's all good, just glad these guys are continuing to share their experience and wisdom with everyone. There are some really talented and patient people in here.
Nike Mag V2 Mod Discussion (Page 58 Shopping List)
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It's all good, just glad these guys are continuing to share their experience and wisdom with everyone. There are some really talented and patient people in here.
cavx
Master Member
I take the file to a logo printing shop and they do it for like $0.40 or something and I get them to print it backwards so the ink can't scrap off.
spider2465
Well-Known Member
Yeah that seems a lot more efficient. Thanks Cavx!
cavx
Master Member
Yes I have done it twice now. It is the switch I use because it is not an on/off switch, rather a momentary or pressure switch with normally open contacts. I have them mounted so that when the strap is pulled tight, it presses the switch closing the contacts and completing the circuit. Once I loosen the strap, it releases the pressure and the contacts open again, cutting the power to the EL. As close to "POWER LACES" as we will get with these shoes.
cavx
Master Member
My shoes are locked away in the cinema right now, so I can't a picture for you. Basically the switch is mounted just behind the Velcro where the strap folds on the securing side of the buckle. So the tightening of the strap turns the switch on by pressure and the Velco hold the strap in place. As soon as you release the Velrco, the lights go out.
Because I am using the CP 3D printed buckle, I have mounted the 2x AAA and 12V inverter all inside the cutout. A 9V will probably fit in the same place, but is much heavier than the 3V system, so might cause the strap to move which could result in the lights going out.
Just pushing the envelope yet againNot a "purist" thing, I get that. I want to wear my shoes and when I do, it typically from in the morning to well into the evening.
So I am looking for a much simpler solution to wire in the shoe that also has an extend the battery life.
As it stands, EL/LED combos need separate circuits because the EL is AC and the LEDs are DC. Then you have the issue of a LED burning out, dropping out, running at different brightness etc. Some just heat up, run for a time and then the whole cluster goes. Adding resisters adds bulk to the cluster, more solder joints, more points to fail etc.
So my solution was to run an all EL set up using colour filters for the LEDs. The same circuit now runs everything, so the brightness of the "LED" cluster is the same as the panels in the soles and on the strap.
In a combo EL/LED set up on a 9V system, run times are typically around 5 hours with the LEDs fading out first. Once the LEDs go, the EL will continue to run for a few extra hours.
With this all EL set up on a just 3V, I am coming up on 18 hours of continuous run time. 3V can also mean less heat, less space in the shoe. Ideally a coin cells would be even better, but I have not tested them yet. There is no reason you could not run a 9V on this either as one earlier test got brighter EL illumination and it ran for over 6 hours with no problems. 9V batteries are typically bulky though and usually have to be built into the sole. I want to build all my electronics into the buckle with only a single wire (twin flex) running down the inside of the shoe.
awesome idea, i love it! keeping everything in the buckle will sure keep things neat too. ill be keeping my eyes out for a run, fingers crossed!
cavx
Master Member
airair has an EL run on right now. Not sure how long he will run that for.
I am still working out the bugs on how I want to wire the shoes. I think a clip system needs to be in place so the strap can be removed completely if needed.
I have three different EL panels on hand -
2 x A5 in white (they actually look light blue when powered and pink when off.
1 x A6 is blue/green (more blue than green)
Tabs for the straps in CYAN (which is the correct colour) but not enough to do the entire shoe.
I want to experiment to experiment with adding filters to the panels to change the colour. So far, adding the white contact adhesive had worked to change the A5 sheets from pink when off to white and still allow them to glow quite bright. Not as bright as the raw EL, so maybe I need to ditch the filter from behind the fake LED panel.
I am hoping that by adding a thin green to the light blue of the A5 sheets, that I can make the colour more close to the correct colour. These sheets are quite affordable, about half the price of the A6 sheets for twice the surface area, but they are pink when off, so the white filter is needed from the get go.
I have found myself a local affordable source of 12V inverters. These will run with voltages from 12V down to 3V, so versatile.
Just for giggles, I will break out the colorimeter and measure the amounts of RGB each produce as well as an FL for the brightness of each.
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i still have allot of homework to do with this, will your kit come with ELs? or are you saying i should grab the ELs that airair has because thats the ones required to work with your kit? im sorry for the novice question, i just havent had the free time to catch up on V2 stuff, ive been on pepsi perfect bottle kicks
the v2 will be my next big project and if these parts are coming available now, i better jump aboard
cavx
Master Member
He has way more experience with EL than I do, so yes, I would grab his as they are ready to go. Mine are still a work in progress as I sort out the bugs. In the end, I'll most likely only supply them for the shoes I mod, not sell as a kit.
I do the clear soles though as a kit and ship those world wide.
cavx
Master Member
EL woes.
Can someone please tell me what is going on here?
So yesterday I gave these a good wear test and all was good until I got home and noticed the right logo was dimmer than the left. When I pressed on it, it became brighter. I checked all the wiring and connections and found that the solder joint on one of the tabs was broken, so not making full contact. Why it worked at all is beyond me, anyway...
So I repair that and then I got this
Really dim.
Again pulled it part, no sign of any breaks. Swapped the batteries just in case power was an issue. Nothing, still the same.
Pulled out the multi-meter. Even though there is only 3V going into the inverters, the output measured 12.8VAC (is that right?) but only 0.23amps.
So I pulled the batteries out and gave it a "jump start" with a near new 9V battery and suddenly the light is super bright.
Put in the original batteries back in and this happens.
NB: The logo looks wonky because I have not glued it back in place yet.
WHY DOES IT DO THIS???
Can someone please tell me what is going on here?
So yesterday I gave these a good wear test and all was good until I got home and noticed the right logo was dimmer than the left. When I pressed on it, it became brighter. I checked all the wiring and connections and found that the solder joint on one of the tabs was broken, so not making full contact. Why it worked at all is beyond me, anyway...
So I repair that and then I got this
Really dim.
Again pulled it part, no sign of any breaks. Swapped the batteries just in case power was an issue. Nothing, still the same.
Pulled out the multi-meter. Even though there is only 3V going into the inverters, the output measured 12.8VAC (is that right?) but only 0.23amps.
So I pulled the batteries out and gave it a "jump start" with a near new 9V battery and suddenly the light is super bright.
Put in the original batteries back in and this happens.
NB: The logo looks wonky because I have not glued it back in place yet.
WHY DOES IT DO THIS???
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cavx
Master Member
BlobVanDam
Sr Member
Clearly your circuit has a gremlin in it stopping it from working. :lol
cavx
Master Member
Nate Hawkins
New Member
Im having some issues with the inverters I'm sure. I wore my shoes yesterday all was good then I turned the lights off now the EL's in the strap & sole won't come back on in both shoes only the LED's in the heel cup comes on in both shoes. I had the shoes on for about 2 hours. Checked all the connections and they are fine. I had this happen before but only in one shoe, then after a while of sitting they started back working again. I put in two new 9v batteries and still nothing. Think Im going to order some new inverters. Would anyone have a part number or link where I can order some. I have 9v batteries that are powering my shoes. This shoe was originally done by the great hands of Brad.
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cavx
I have the exact same thing. It is really annoying, I've gone through a lot of el trying to figure out whats going on and I suck at making solid connections... Also, on the one shoe it would happen on, it would start dim but would kinda "warm up" and get a little brighter.
Also do you all put the el sheet inside the sole and let the holes give it shape or do you sort of squish the panel between the rubber outsole and the kinda midsole?
I have the exact same thing. It is really annoying, I've gone through a lot of el trying to figure out whats going on and I suck at making solid connections... Also, on the one shoe it would happen on, it would start dim but would kinda "warm up" and get a little brighter.
Also do you all put the el sheet inside the sole and let the holes give it shape or do you sort of squish the panel between the rubber outsole and the kinda midsole?
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