Nike Mag V2 Mod Discussion (Page 58 Shopping List)

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Ok and with the heal cup you remove the entire thing off the shoe ? Reason I ask is because it looks like the heal cup on my shoes are attached to the mid sole

They are attached to the mid-sole by not very much glue at all. There is a small lip that they sit in and they have amount 3 points of glue. A bit of heat and some flexing and these come off quite easy. Also the bubble comes out easy with a bit of heat too.

What I found interesting is that the glue basically melts with a bit of heat, but there are at least 3 random points where they have used something other than the normal glue. That stuff does not melt.

Try and preserve the pink card as well. I know alot of guys just ripped this out, but don't, it is what gives the upper is final shape and you want this (or a plastic replacement like I did) when gluing the upper back down. Even though you only glue about 1/2" all the way around, you need this to give the shoe some internal support.

Once you have the upper removed, you can unpick the sewing on the edge of the toe, gently peel open the layers and remove the toe box altogether. If you really wanted to, you could separate the sides as well (though I would suggest doing toe first, then closing that back up before you tackle the sides) and remove the foam that makes up the ribs. I had already glued my uppers back together before realizing that could be done.

I also attached my new extended tongue at the stage where I had the toe opened up as I had full access inside to where it attaches.
 
Little more midsole filling and smoother transition between the original midsole add-ons would work better. Blocky LEGO look doesn't really work for a practical werable shoe
 
Little more midsole filling and smoother transition between the original midsole add-ons would work better. Blocky LEGO look doesn't really work for a practical werable shoe

The difference between what I did to my MAGs (can do to any shoe) and this cut and paste job is that I was able to laminate the soles with a gel state rubber to fill in the gaps. I guess not everyone can do that.
 
Ive just did a too slim and removed all the yellowish sole's and created a mold for casting new sole's now i was doing some internet shopping and have some questions, im a newbee in building circuits so maby this are some stupid questions.

Can i hook up a 12v inverter on my 9v battery ?

I cant buy the small 9v inverter because i dont have a credit card
I only use paypal for international shopping.

And where do you guys nowdays buy your EL ? Because the EL from ebay listed in 58 is long gone.

What are some good not to exprensive links for el?
 
I am about to buy 12v inverters. I have been told by the supplier that the can run off 12v, 9v, 6v and even 3v.
The supplier can't get cyan EL, but can white A5 sheets, cheap. You can use a color filter to change the color of the light.
 
So I started work on my shoes....I got one side of the hell cup unglued. I can see the electronics inside the bubble. The heal cup has been a pain in the ass...I keep getting small little wholes in the fabric. I guess you wont see them when I glue the heal cup back on. I feel like I have a pretty hot hair dryer and it doesnt want to come off easy.I also cut out the nike logo from the strap and painted my clone props buckle. I tried removing the soles but also had the same problem getting them to come off
 
A tounge depressor is the best thing for getting the soles off. You heat and push the wooden stick into the gap. The wood will allow you to break the glued join and does not get hot so won't burn the rubber. Still takes a good 2 hours though.
 
It's just very time consuming. I spent a little over an hour getting the soles off each shoe. For me the heel cups have come off very easily tho


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For me the heel cups have come off very easily tho

And why I suggest to everyone to start there if opening these shoes up. The toes are glued down hard, yet these heel cups almost peel away on their own. In fact mine did on both my wear pair (and why I decided to add lights that time) and the display pair.

Anyway, today I picked up 5KG if silicone, so this week I can make a start on new molds for the smaller size clear soles and the the other parts like buckles and heel cups/new bubbles.
 
Anyway, today I picked up 5KG if silicone, so this week I can make a start on new molds for the smaller size clear soles and the the other parts like buckles and heel cups/new bubbles.

That's the kind of news I love!
 
5KG of silicone :)

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I won't show you a photo of what is in the bucket, 'cause it looks like something else :p
 

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So I got most of the electronics out of the first shoe.....I also got the majority of the heal cup off. The left side "wing" of the heal cup is being a sob and wont come off. Im trying to remove the wires for the leds on the side as well as the charge port and on and off switch. Im not sure if I should lift the material off the sole...similar to how you would do to the toe. I think If I do that I would be able to pull the exterior and interior of the fabric apart and get the wires out.

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You can probably leave that "wing" attached so long as it is the "wing" that does not contain the bubble, though it will bend a fair bit.

You should be able to see two sewn holes where the bottom one is normally hidden behind the heel cup. Your wires should be able to pulled out from here, but sometimes they are glued in tight, so you might just be best to leave them there and cut them off flush.

I have lifted the cloth from the sole a few times now but never separated it. Just be sure to line up the original glue marks when you stick it all back together.

Also when I do lift that upper off the sole, I don't tear the pink card out, rather leave it as a flap that come up and can be pushed back down.

In my US8 pair, I completely removed the pink card and replaced it with black plastic. It is what holds the shape of the shoe, so your pair actually need that.
 
Yeah I see the two holes I was thinking of just cutting the wires because they are really glopped with glue on the bottom near the sole. Im assuming I have to seperate the exterior and interior material of the upper so that i can fish new wires up to the top of the upper ?

Im going to replace the pink card with something. Im thinking of adding a little cut out whole for the battery compartment and storing my battery down there so that it can still be changed but out of my way. Not sure I like the idea of hiding a 9v behind the ankle buckle
 
Yeah I see the two holes I was thinking of just cutting the wires because they are really glopped with glue on the bottom near the sole. Im assuming I have to seperate the exterior and interior material of the upper so that i can fish new wires up to the top of the upper ?

Im going to replace the pink card with something. Im thinking of adding a little cut out whole for the battery compartment and storing my battery down there so that it can still be changed but out of my way. Not sure I like the idea of hiding a 9v behind the ankle buckle

I have just used a plastic chop stick to poke the new wire through. Pays to work the stick through first, then tape the wires to the end.
I've used Polyprop (difficult to glue to) and foamcore (easier to glue to) and both are plastic that does not tear. A cut out of trap door is a good idea.

I am looking at making a new custom buckle soon with a custom cutout for a battery and inverter. Just not sure a 9V will actually fit. They are pretty big.
 
Hmm ok I'll give it a shot....I guess I have to work the upper off the mid sole up to to the first blue led in the sole. I might just cut these wires I can't seem to get them out they are covered in glue and it looks like they are in between the mid sole and the bottom of the upper
 
Yeah sometimes they come right out with virtually no glue holding them in. Other times they are over engineered with the amount of glue they have used. I have found that if one shoe is easy to get apart, the other will not be.

I am about demold your clear soles too :)
 
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