I would say that if his shoes don't come out by the end of the year that they will never come out. Would you ever consider selling uppers for people to attach to their V2s if you ever master the patterns?
Nike Mag V2 Mod Discussion (Page 58 Shopping List)
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I would say that if his shoes don't come out by the end of the year that they will never come out. Would you ever consider selling uppers for people to attach to their V2s if you ever master the patterns?
cavx
Master Member
Let me master the patterns first.
cavx
Master Member
Has anyone used the A23 battery (12V) for these shoes? I'm interested in these because they are smaller than a 9V and might even fit in the cutout on the inside of the ankle buckle. You could probably even fit the small round inverter in there too. I have had to store the batteries in this pair I am working on in the sole, and I am not 100% convinced that is the best place for them.
The issue with the A23 is that it is 12V and it would need resisters. Having a think on this, maybe an L pad like used for crossovers in audio systems could work. An L Pad is two resisters, one in series and 2nd in parallel. In this case, the P resister would go first in the across the terminals to provide load to the battery. The S resister would go inline with the two circuits (one for the inverter and the other for the LEDs). To reduce the voltage to the electronics (to reduce the system to say 3V), one simply decreases the value of the P resister. Electricity is lazy and always takes the path of least resistance.
If anyone has already done this and had a win, please share.
The issue with the A23 is that it is 12V and it would need resisters. Having a think on this, maybe an L pad like used for crossovers in audio systems could work. An L Pad is two resisters, one in series and 2nd in parallel. In this case, the P resister would go first in the across the terminals to provide load to the battery. The S resister would go inline with the two circuits (one for the inverter and the other for the LEDs). To reduce the voltage to the electronics (to reduce the system to say 3V), one simply decreases the value of the P resister. Electricity is lazy and always takes the path of least resistance.
If anyone has already done this and had a win, please share.
I got some spare mags if anybody wants them? Size 10 UK, done the toe mod and that's it. Willing to sell them the same price I bought them for/cheaper. Anyone know where I can sell them? Or if I can list them on here?
Im from the UK btw, won't ship international.
Im from the UK btw, won't ship international.
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royal
Active Member
Depends on ypur price pm me your price
MrSouthpaw
Sr Member
I never could get the ribs flat either.
Wrinkles or ripples in the laces is normal when the HC shoes are not being worn.
Check out the pic of the HC shoes at the top of this page, those shoes were not worn when I took that picture. So that's how the laces look fresh out of the box. Of course when you wear the shoe they stretch a little and smooth out.
cavx
Master Member
To get the ribs flat basically requires you to melt the foam underneath. Either that, or you remove the upper and open the seam at the base to access the foam and cut it out.
If you take the iron approach, used a wet towel so that you create steam and do not burn your shoes!
If you take the iron approach, used a wet towel so that you create steam and do not burn your shoes!
chuck2003
Well-Known Member
Ok so I've finally received my new V2's and I've been reading through this thread a lot and I think I more or less understand how to do the mods. Going to start working on modding them come thursday. The only thing I'm missing is a set of Cavx soles......
My first question is where is the current stock electronics housed in the show. I see where the obvious electronics are like the leds in the sole and ankle and the button/charge port that comes out the back but where is the shoes current battery housed ? And how do I go about removing them ?
My first question is where is the current stock electronics housed in the show. I see where the obvious electronics are like the leds in the sole and ankle and the button/charge port that comes out the back but where is the shoes current battery housed ? And how do I go about removing them ?
The stock electronics are located in the heel part of the sole. Working from inside the shoe you'll need to lift up the bottom liner and under that is a pink pad that is firmly attached to the shoe. You'll probably have to do a bit of cutting to lift it up and expose the battery / electronics under it.
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Where is everyone getting their El panels from these days? Doesn't appear the 5 x 6 el panel that used to be on eBay is sold there anymore. I don't want to end up with a panel that has a huge border around it or only 1 connection point.
Also, to anyone that's used the cloneprops ankle buckle, do you think is possible to stuff a 9v in there?
Thanks!
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Also, to anyone that's used the cloneprops ankle buckle, do you think is possible to stuff a 9v in there?
Thanks!
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cavx
Master Member
chuck2003 as Catfish45 said, the stock electronics are in the heel. Depending on how much you want to remove, I found it best to heat and remove the heel cup at least half way around and then you have easier access to both the wires in the sole and ankle for re-wiring. You will see that there is a 2nd sewn hold to run the wires out of so you don't have to cut the fabric
Also if your planning on adding a set of my clears, you will have to take the yellows off anyway and then you can carefully cut the base out to get the battery out have full access to where the wires need to go. Also it is easier to add your EL at this stage too and test everything before gluing back together.
Also if your planning on adding a set of my clears, you will have to take the yellows off anyway and then you can carefully cut the base out to get the battery out have full access to where the wires need to go. Also it is easier to add your EL at this stage too and test everything before gluing back together.
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chuck2003
Well-Known Member
Gotcha so I guess I will start tearing the shoes apart!
cavx
Master Member
Gently though
I am shocked how easy the heel cup comes off on these compared to the toe which is stuck down with what ever.
chuck2003
Well-Known Member
Yeah..Im going to be nervous as hell doing this but well see Im probably going to start with the toe first and then remove the soles and heal cup. We will see how it goes going to use a hair dryer and a butter knife and go really slow. I'll post if I run into trouble I'm sure ill have a lot of questions lolGently though
cavx
Master Member
If you are going to do the full sole removal as I did on the US8s, then start at the heel and work forward. Once the heel is open, you can clamp the back of the heel to the work desk and pull the upper up with one hand as you work the heat gun with the other. It gives you leverage. The toe is hard, so once you get there, this method allows you to heat from inside and hopefully not burn the rubber as I have seen others do. Again, take your time and you find swapping shoes from time to time is better too.
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