Nike Mag V2 Mod Discussion (Page 58 Shopping List)

[chuck2003]

So I removed everything from the first shoe....Only thing left is the LEDS in the sole. Im currently working on removing the "wings" of the sole to get access to the leds. Once thats done Im going to start wiring everything and test fitting everything. Hopefully by the time I get the first shoe done my new soles will be here. After that I think I will tackle the toe box last....Got a lot of work to do October is coming quick. Wish I had like 4 days off from work so I could really focus on this

 

[zachp116]

Howdy everyone,

I've been wanting a pair of mags since I was a kid. I came across this forum while watching the Tested video. I just bought a pair of V2's yesterday and have been reading / watching every post. You guys do amazing work! I'm getting all the parts together to mod mine. We'll see how it goes. Fingers crossed.

Having said that, I am planning to go ahead with a limited run shortly of precut, assembled kits.
They will consist of following hopefully:

1.) 2 x EL Strap Panels (No Logos) complete with cables preattached.
2.) 2 x EL Sole Cutouts complete with cables preattached. No need to block out the ends or use grey tape, the sole cutouts will only light up in the areas required, exactly like the official ones.

I will have plenty available and will be putting some up in the junkyard soon hopefully.

Hey airair, do you still have the assembled kits available? sending you a PM.

 

[stryder81]

Im looking to get a pair of replica air mag i need a size 13 can you help me on what site to order them from

 

[zachp116]

I got these. Click Here.

 

[MitasTouch]

I remember a couple years ago I had trouble with the 12v LEDs because they were too dim when I set them up. Did this happen to anyone else? I never really found an answer to why that happened.

 

[chuck2003]

Ok so I have the first shoes sole off and its ready to wire. In the process of removing the sole I managed to tear a few small holes in the mid sole. Does any one know of any putty or sillcone I could smear in the bottom of the mid sole and then sand it smooth ?

 

[booshman]

Ok so I have the first shoes sole off and its ready to wire. In the process of removing the sole I managed to tear a few small holes in the mid sole. Does any one know of any putty or sillcone I could smear in the bottom of the mid sole and then sand it smooth ?

I'll pass on the advice cavx gave me, and say to try shoo goo. You can paint over it with Angelus paints.

 

[cavx]

I remember a couple years ago I had trouble with the 12v LEDs because they were too dim when I set them up. Did this happen to anyone else? I never really found an answer to why that happened.

9V set up?

Ok so I have the first shoes sole off and its ready to wire. In the process of removing the sole I managed to tear a few small holes in the mid sole. Does any one know of any putty or sillcone I could smear in the bottom of the mid sole and then sand it smooth ?

As has been mentioned, Shoe Goo should fill any small "holes".

 

[chuck2003]

Ok great thanks for the suggestion..


Now do you think the following procedure would be what I should do ?
1. Spread shoe goo on the bottom of the mid sole to fix holes
2. Light sanding to smooth it out
3. Paint bottom of mid sole grey
4. After I get new cavx soles add more shoe goo to apply new soles to mags

Am I on the right track with this ?

 

[cavx]

I'd probably just fill in the holes first and sand them. When the actual soles arrive, you can use more Shoe Goo (I used Tarzan Grip) to adhere the soles to the mid-sole.

I do wonder if it is possible to mix a bit of acrylic paint into the Shoe Goo. It is air curing like caulking silicone. If you do this to caulking silicone (which is also an adhesive), it helps set faster and you can change the colour. Given we want to lighten the area under the new sole, maybe worth a test on a piece of material (plastic or other) that you can throw away. Or bond two parts together to see how strong it is when it cures might be a better test.

I've suggested Shoe Goo because it is made for shoes. Right now, I am really liking Tarzan Grip. I found with this stuff, best results come from wetting each side, letting is tack and pressing together gives a slight clouded look under the sole as well. Like Shoe Goo, Tarzan Grip is rubberized and flexes. When I did my wear pair, I used liquid Super Glue and it is brittle and can crack. Liquid Super Glue is handy for finishing off the edges, but from experience with other adhesives, I would not use it for the main gluing now.

This shoe was glued together with Tarzan Grip (and Liquid Super Glue on the edges only).

 

[chuck2003]

Thanks cavx that helps a lot....I have some shoe goo coming. I may try mixing it with acrylic paint and letting it set on some scrap plastic. If it doesnt work I will just fill the holes with shoe goo sand and maybe hit it with a bit of grey paint and let that set....Then when the new soles come ill use that tarzan stuff. Going to start tearing apart the second pair of shoes apart tomorrow. Once thats done Im going to start wiring.

 

[Catfish45]

Been toying with the idea of housing all the electronics inside of a cloneprops ankle buckle and I think this might just work. I just bought some 900mah 9v rechargeables and it turns out they're made of 2 flat cell batteries once disassembled. I did a quick test fit and the batteries and inverter sit fairly flush in the buckle. Next step is to wire everything up. I plan to use a small piece of breadboard as my power distribution block which will also fit inside the ankle buckle, once it's all wired up I plan to glue it all in place and use some type of rubbery material (rtv, caulk?) to fill in all around the electronics to protect them from the back of the shoe.





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[cavx]

Good to see some innovation. I like the idea of not having the electronics in the sole where possible. Will be interesting to see how small these 12v inverters are and if they will work with the A23 battery.

My goal is to have all the electronics in the buckle.

 

[MitasTouch]

9V set up?

Yes. If I would solder the whole thing up the red LEDs would be the brightest then yellow would be a little dimmer and green was the dimmest. No resistors.

 

[cavx]

Yes. If I would solder the whole thing up the red LEDs would be the brightest then yellow would be a little dimmer and green was the dimmest. No resistors.

Were you buying your LEDs from an electronics store or just a bag off the internet?

 

[MitasTouch]

Were you buying your LEDs from an electronics store or just a bag off the internet?

The LEDs on the shopping list on pg 58.

- - - Updated - - -

Been toying with the idea of housing all the electronics inside of a cloneprops ankle buckle and I think this might just work. I just bought some 900mah 9v rechargeables and it turns out they're made of 2 flat cell batteries once disassembled. I did a quick test fit and the batteries and inverter sit fairly flush in the buckle. Next step is to wire everything up. I plan to use a small piece of breadboard as my power distribution block which will also fit inside the ankle buckle, once it's all wired up I plan to glue it all in place and use some type of rubbery material (rtv, caulk?) to fill in all around the electronics to protect them from the back of the shoe.
View attachment 513834
View attachment 513835



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I may have to try this some day.

 

[cavx]

The LEDs on the shopping list on pg 58..

So what can happen is differnent colour LEDs can have different volatge ratings that ultimately affect the brightness. You can get around this by adding resisters to the brighter LEDs or you can buy same voltage LEDs. If buying a bag of mixed LEDs, you may get different value LEDs.

 

[MitasTouch]

So what can happen is differnent colour LEDs can have different volatge ratings that ultimately affect the brightness. You can get around this by adding resisters to the brighter LEDs or you can buy same voltage LEDs. If buying a bag of mixed LEDs, you may get different value LEDs.

The site as ys they are all 12v. The colors came in separate bags.

 

[cavx]

The site as ys they are all 12v. The colors came in separate bags.

Maybe you need to look at lower voltage LEDs. Because if you series (+-+-+-+-) each row, you are essentially adding the value of each together. This is slightly different to the way resisters work because LEDs don't actually have resistance when the current flows the correct way and have infinite resistance when fed the wrong way. That said, the idea is the same. So 1 x 12V = 12V. 4 x 12V = 48V. Now it takes a heap more current to drive 48V to the same brightness as 12V and given 3 rows are in parallel, 48/3 = 16V and you are running this off 9V. Adding resisters to the output of the LED rows may help where you leave G at 0. You would need to consult a electronics expert about the exact resistance needed. This is not rocket science, so maybe a 10K on R, 5K on Y and no resister on G. Power is lazy and takes the path of least resistance, so now G should be as bright as R and Y because its path has less resistance.

 

[chuck2003]

I worked on the second shoe today....Im amazed at how easy the heal cup came off this shoe. It almost makes me mad that the other shoe took me like 5 days of working on it to get to this point. Got all the electronics out besides the battery. The battery in this shoe will not come out. I've been warming it up with a hair dryer from both the inside the shoe and also tried from the bottom of the sole. It wont come off....Tried using vice grips and i only managed to crack the plastic casing of the battery. I got it half way off but the last little bit wont let go. Im afraid im going to tear a hole in the mid sole. Was thinking maybe take the soles off and then poke a small hole in the bottom of the mid sole to try and get the battery loose then later fill the hole with shoe goe.....