Nike Mag V2 Mod Discussion (Page 58 Shopping List)

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hello jedifyfe just one question, the baterie you put inside feeds all the light of the shoes,, or only the down side?? because i watched your videos and when you put lights on, down side and nike el strap is on . thank you! sorry for my english i'm french: P

This is what you need, it was posted some pages back:-
WiringInstructions2-1.jpg
 
Dumb question: Do you really need 3 resisters or can you use one and split the output 3 ways? The way I see this, there is a minimum resistance needed and three resisters in parallel (as the diagram shows) would be no different to one resister with a value of 1/3rd that of each single. So example would be if you needed 50ohm, then you would use 3 x 150ohm wired in parallel to get 50 ohm. So why not just use a single 50 ohm resister?
 
Clear Sole Update:
Trimmed and ready for molding :)

Top Side
10384366_10152461803848841_7750979434575448874_n.jpg


Under Side
10390971_10152461803863841_3458324730101337323_n.jpg


Test Fit to Shoe
1926821_10152461803803841_7035531753464788375_n.jpg


Next step, mold in Pinkysil, then cast in clear Urethane.
 
Dumb question: Do you really need 3 resisters or can you use one and split the output 3 ways? The way I see this, there is a minimum resistance needed and three resisters in parallel (as the diagram shows) would be no different to one resister with a value of 1/3rd that of each single. So example would be if you needed 50ohm, then you would use 3 x 150ohm wired in parallel to get 50 ohm. So why not just use a single 50 ohm resister?

I never used any resisters just increased the LEDs to 12v ones, still no problems but it's personal preference I guess :)
 
Cavx - if you want to get a super-smooth edge on the rubber that you've cut before making a mould of it, run the edge on a bench grinder, but be very careful as it will wear it down VERY quickly. Oh and also don't forget to use glasses cos it kicks up a lot of shaved bits of rubber.
 
Can't wait to see the result cavx!

Cavx - if you want to get a super-smooth edge on the rubber that you've cut before making a mould of it, run the edge on a bench grinder, but be very careful as it will wear it down VERY quickly. Oh and also don't forget to use glasses cos it kicks up a lot of shaved bits of rubber.

Thanks guys. I used a ceramic bit in the dremmil for the final cut along the edges. Because the sole is a positive pyramid, I got some rough looking edges where the pattern cuts through the bumps. I then angled the bit to about 60 degrees to help smooth it. The idea was to keep as much of the side waffle as I could to the base where the pyramid mat starts.

The rubber sole was glued to the pyramid mat using super glue on a flat surface, then left to dry. I've trimmed to the seam line to keep it neat and hopefully when cast you will only see a very line where the two surface types meet.

- - - Updated - - -

I never used any resisters just increased the LEDs to 12v ones, still no problems but it's personal preference I guess :)

I did a set with no resisters either. Resisters are used to reduce power so the LEDs don't burn out, but if the sum of the parts are greater than the power supply, this should not be an issue.
 
Hello everybody, somebody can tell me what is the solution to mod the sole to be like original? because the replica the sole is little bit yellow and i think with time will be more yellow with UV.
Thank you for all !
i bought all the things to mod my Air Mag today and the shoes im exiting to begin the job!!
sorry again guys, for my english, Im from Paris !
 
Read post #4328 above.
I not am happy with the rate in which these have yellowed either, so I am currently in the process of removing the outer-sole, modding them to be an "outrigger" and will mold and cast that new soles in clear poly urethane.
 
I am a size 9 and purchased the uk 7.5 and they fit perfect. Still a bit of room for the toe drop. Just started my mod today, very nervous.
 
I am a size 9 and purchased the uk 7.5 and they fit perfect. Still a bit of room for the toe drop. Just started my mod today, very nervous.

You're probably not a proper size 9 then, as the UK 7.5's are way too tight around the sides, and once the toes reduced, even more.
 
Very new to this. Just received my first pair last week ready for modifying. What some of you guys are doing looks amazing. My wife thinks I'm crazy which Is why I'm hear with you people. Expect lots of questions, but first I must trawl through 174 pages of conversation like the rest of you. keep up the good work.
 
I must have slender feet, sorry.

Or maybe my relatives have fat feet! lol

I've modified a couple for some family members, a few are Size 9 UK, and they tried the UK Size 7.5 and UK Size 8.5, and the 8.5 seems to be the best fit.

Then again, its all about which fitting makes you comfortable.

If you are doing the toe mod, try doing the Ironing method first, will save you the hassle of ripping open the toe.
 
I understand ironing to tone down ribbed laces, but ironing method for the toe? I obviously have not read enough. Also does anybody know about the led's used in the heel cap and wether they can be re-used on either a 3v or 9v mod?
 
yeah you put a sock inside the toebox and iron it down, the steam softens the material inside the toebox. There are instructions here somewhere, someone invented it. Good idea.
As for the LED's, the green are very disappointing, if I ever mod mine I'll throw them away. LED's aren't pricey anyway.
If you have size 9 US, I think 7.5 UK would work. US size is usually one number up eg UK8 = US9
 
Do they actually make US9? All thesize lists I have seen seem to skip US9 and jump from US8.5 to US9.5.
 
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