cavx
Master Member
This looks like the real 2011 shoe, not a replica. Therefore I'd take this with a grain of salt and advise you NOT to send any money.
Nike Mag V2 Mod Discussion (Page 58 Shopping List)
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This looks like the real 2011 shoe, not a replica. Therefore I'd take this with a grain of salt and advise you NOT to send any money.
lukebrynycz
Sr Member
Yup. They're 2011s so that's a bull post. The refresh of V2s on Ali etc is interesting!
cavx
Master Member
Why what happens?
I did a search and found a pair. What they have done in their images is to only show the inner part or frame it so you just see the edge of the swoosh so they don't have to photoshop the logos out.
cavx
Master Member
So even though the news about this new MAG replica is out, I am still continuing with my scratch build pair.
They are now solid. Filled with a 2 part plastic with a shore of D65. Hard-hats are D80.
After watching a heap of videos about lasts, I think I am on the right track. I do need to build a back section that mechanically locks to the front. The 2 parts need to come apart so the last can be removed from the shoe. One of the videos shoes this guy in Japan hand carving lasts. Clearly by the level of skill, he had been doing those for years. Other videos showed lasts as pre-made plastic parts.
There was also a really cool video on the making of a PU upper where they mix a rubber, lay it down as a thin sheet over a machined template and then vacuum degas the mix. Unlike my vacuum system (which is pretty quick at less than 60 seconds), this rig pulls an instant vacuum. I guess in a factory making 1000s of pairs, you need to be able to do that.
They are now solid. Filled with a 2 part plastic with a shore of D65. Hard-hats are D80.
After watching a heap of videos about lasts, I think I am on the right track. I do need to build a back section that mechanically locks to the front. The 2 parts need to come apart so the last can be removed from the shoe. One of the videos shoes this guy in Japan hand carving lasts. Clearly by the level of skill, he had been doing those for years. Other videos showed lasts as pre-made plastic parts.
There was also a really cool video on the making of a PU upper where they mix a rubber, lay it down as a thin sheet over a machined template and then vacuum degas the mix. Unlike my vacuum system (which is pretty quick at less than 60 seconds), this rig pulls an instant vacuum. I guess in a factory making 1000s of pairs, you need to be able to do that.
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RVLF
Sr Member
I think tthat to build ypur own is a great thing learnt tons of things, keep me busy when I have nothing to do, and the satisfaction to see it looking good is so great
streetfashion
New Member
some cool custom Mag pics i found
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cavx
Master Member
I have scanned the image for you an BMP (bitmap?) and the file is too big to post here, so email me using cavxonline@gmail.com and I can send it directly to you. It was scanned at 300DPI. Hope that works for you.
cavx
Master Member
Email sent
airair
Sr Member
cavx
Master Member
6+ Hours at 23 degrees C for the flexible polyurethane. The stuff in the video is epoxy because I am now making new wings for all 3 sizes that will be poured curved. Hopefully this will end the reports of splits at the base of the tail.
I am letting these set up longer as max temp today was just 22dC.
Out of all the videos I have watched on YouTube, none actually show this from the side. All video is taken from the top and you don't really get a sense of how much rise and fall there is. So, because I needed to insert the mold (you can see it in the back ground) I needed to set the chamber up on its side. And this allowed me to show the side view of the cup.
The reason I have degassed the mold was to ensure there is no air trapped during the pour which can happen from time to time. Whilst it means double handling, it makes a superior part, so happy to keep doing that for all clear soles I pour from now on. And the mold is only painted with resin, not filled. All I am doing later is back filling. The surface is 100% covered in degassed resin prior to filling now, and this has eliminated those small pits you may see from time to time.
cavx
Master Member
It is said that you get between 30 and 100 casts from a silicone mold. I'd like to think that I'd be getting close to the 100 mark given I use good Platinum based silicone. So I decided it might be a good idea to "back up" my molds. Because when you consider how much effort goes into making them in the first place, it would be shame to lose or break one. Also, in most cases, the master part(s) are not recoverable (ie made from clay) or reusable.
When I made this 2 part mold, I spent hours getting it right, making sure I cleaned all the clay off the surface of the master. Then a few casts fine tweeking the air vents. So it would no be cool doing that again. At least the mold box (the butter box) is easy to find
So rather than make a new mold from scratch, I made Master Mold Parts A and B that I can store for future use. The parts I make from this mold are used in pairs, so I needed a 2nd molds anyway to speed up production. Doing this also gave me the opportunity to clean up some rough edges on the back side and make a few tweaks to enhance the final cast part. Because in the end of the day, the better the master parts, the less trimming and sanding you have to do
So using two of the butter boxes and some D65 plastic, I now have Part A and Part B master parts that can be placed back in butter boxed to make additional molds.
You will notice I also added the 4 dimples to the back of the buckle like seen on the screen used shoe.
When I made this 2 part mold, I spent hours getting it right, making sure I cleaned all the clay off the surface of the master. Then a few casts fine tweeking the air vents. So it would no be cool doing that again. At least the mold box (the butter box) is easy to find
So rather than make a new mold from scratch, I made Master Mold Parts A and B that I can store for future use. The parts I make from this mold are used in pairs, so I needed a 2nd molds anyway to speed up production. Doing this also gave me the opportunity to clean up some rough edges on the back side and make a few tweaks to enhance the final cast part. Because in the end of the day, the better the master parts, the less trimming and sanding you have to do
So using two of the butter boxes and some D65 plastic, I now have Part A and Part B master parts that can be placed back in butter boxed to make additional molds.
You will notice I also added the 4 dimples to the back of the buckle like seen on the screen used shoe.
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joshslayton
Well-Known Member
Okay so im in need of some help here. Ive been modding my shoes for a few weeks and ive finally gotten to the electronics. Now i have a 9v EL inverter and soldered the ankle bubble leds with 10ohm resistors and it worked smoothly. Same with the sole EL panels but once i connected both to the inverter to the battery the el sheet barely light up if not at all. Ill post some pictures of what im talking about so hopefully you guys will understand what im having trouble with but as if now im pretty stumped. Any help/advice would be great!
The ankle bubble lights again lights up with no problem
Same with the sole lights
P
But once they're both connected the sole eL sheet barely has light.
Any ideas?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The ankle bubble lights again lights up with no problem
Same with the sole lights
P
But once they're both connected the sole eL sheet barely has light.
Any ideas?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
cavx
Master Member
It is a bit hard to follow your wiring from that photo but have you got LEDs connected after the inverter? LEDs are DC and therefore should be wired just before the inverter. EL is AC and the inverter's job is to convert DC to AC at about 3000Hz.
Something to remember too is that if you run low voltage LEDs, then you need a resister. You are running 12V LDEDs off a 9V battery, you won't resisters or very small ones if you do. Point being, you burn them out if they exceed the power supply.
If the EL is dim, them you need more power to it. Power is lazy and it takes the path of least resistance. In this case, upping the resistance to the LEDs will force more power to inverter.
Something else too. You have used 3 x 10 ohm resisters in Parallel. That equates to a single resister of just 3.3 ohm (10 / 3) yet you LEDs will be wired in series per row. If one LED drops out, the whole row drops out.
Something to remember too is that if you run low voltage LEDs, then you need a resister. You are running 12V LDEDs off a 9V battery, you won't resisters or very small ones if you do. Point being, you burn them out if they exceed the power supply.
If the EL is dim, them you need more power to it. Power is lazy and it takes the path of least resistance. In this case, upping the resistance to the LEDs will force more power to inverter.
Something else too. You have used 3 x 10 ohm resisters in Parallel. That equates to a single resister of just 3.3 ohm (10 / 3) yet you LEDs will be wired in series per row. If one LED drops out, the whole row drops out.
cavx
Master Member
I didn't really know how to complete the back section of the last, so I did this.
Tomorrow I will work out the divide line and pre-drill the alignment holes before I cut it up. I'm not sure I will be able to do the stepped part like I had, so might just do a 2 pin attachment where one is just a pin and the other is a screw.
To make these, I went to K-MART, found little kids gum boots and found the largest size. It was the same length as my bare foot, so I decided for $12, not a biggie if it does not work. I should have just filled them first, but my stash of plastic was low, so I cut up other things I had made and did not need, placed them in the gum boot, then flooded it with the remaining plastic. I then had ti cut the gum boot apart to get the last out.
I have a MAG upper that I made a while back and my foot fits perfectly, so tonight a quick test fit and this also fits perfectly, so a win.
Tomorrow I will work out the divide line and pre-drill the alignment holes before I cut it up. I'm not sure I will be able to do the stepped part like I had, so might just do a 2 pin attachment where one is just a pin and the other is a screw.
To make these, I went to K-MART, found little kids gum boots and found the largest size. It was the same length as my bare foot, so I decided for $12, not a biggie if it does not work. I should have just filled them first, but my stash of plastic was low, so I cut up other things I had made and did not need, placed them in the gum boot, then flooded it with the remaining plastic. I then had ti cut the gum boot apart to get the last out.
I have a MAG upper that I made a while back and my foot fits perfectly, so tonight a quick test fit and this also fits perfectly, so a win.
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cavx
Master Member
I like the way the sole glows, not just visible EL sheet.
I have an idea for my scratch project. I can either make the sole in 3 parts or as a single. Lets the discuss the single for a bit.
Once the mold is made, if I paint the inside with splatter, then grey (letting each stage cure) I then fill the rest with clear. The mid-sole will look grey from the outside of the shoe, but will be clear if you take out the inner sole. Just a single , bright LED placed under the sock liner will light every clear part of that. Still use EL for the strap with the inverter hidden in the buckle.
I have an idea for my scratch project. I can either make the sole in 3 parts or as a single. Lets the discuss the single for a bit.
Once the mold is made, if I paint the inside with splatter, then grey (letting each stage cure) I then fill the rest with clear. The mid-sole will look grey from the outside of the shoe, but will be clear if you take out the inner sole. Just a single , bright LED placed under the sock liner will light every clear part of that. Still use EL for the strap with the inverter hidden in the buckle.
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