Nike Mag V2 Mod Discussion (Page 58 Shopping List)

[RVLF]

You didn't documented the opening of the shoe ? Any other pictures / angles ?
I'm gonna try another method on my HC's somedays but I'd like to have all the info before trying something like this ^^

 

[cavx]

You didn't documented the opening of the shoe ? Any other pictures / angles ?
I'm gonna try another method on my HC's somedays but I'd like to have all the info before trying something like this ^^

Sometimes it is easier (less frustrating) not to document the process. After the event, there is always that feeling of wow, I wish I captured that.

I will be getting a pair sent to me soon. If the guy wants me to sock toe his shoes, I will video the whole process.

 

[prime3446]

You didn't documented the opening of the shoe ? Any other pictures / angles ?
I'm gonna try another method on my HC's somedays but I'd like to have all the info before trying something like this ^^

I'll take some pics now I haven't glued them back yet

 

[prime3446]

(Key for 3rd photo)

Red is start of second foam sheet
Black is the first foam sheet
Grey is fabric folded over first foam sheet

If you guys can see its basically just tucking the fabric and glueing it down with some superglue and glueing the second foam sheet on top of that but glue the edges of both triangles to match usually I pull and sift the first layer of fabric and foam to match the contours of the triangle shape to get that rounded triangle.

 

[NRFarone]

I basically cut the stitching where the white cuff was around the bottom, sides and pull holes are I had used a template that cavx gave me a long time ago for my tongue mod and had a upper template so I sized it to my shoe and cut it out onto foam about 2 sheet for one side. First I undid the stitching and removed the foam in the collar on the upper. After that I cut the foam upper in half so I have two and placed one in the upper trying to match it with the oval pull hole. After fiddling with it to get to where I can cut the oval fabric and pull it over and glue it to the edge of the triangular pull holes I cut the white leather upper on the inside so it can match before glueing everything back together I used the other half and glue it on top of the foam inside and gluing mainly around the triangular holes so the shape will stay. on the template I used there was excess at the bottom of the foam so cut it off. After glueing both foam sheet together I glue down the white leather on the road so it looks like before the stitching was undone. I don't think this process has been done before by anyone else so I'd give it a try. The main goal of doing this mod was to preserve the fabric of the original shoe so I don't have to make a whole new upper and find matching fabric. For the collar keeping it straight I cut some coat hanger wire and superglue some foam at the ends and placed it into the collar BEFORE glueing the white leather back and bent into shape. (the upper template is from cavx when he was making homemade mags I just edit it for the upper by cutting the upper portion off and printing it off.)



View attachment 567338






View attachment 567339




View attachment 567341

Thanks Prime! I will have to try this when I get my pair.

 

[Jedifyfe]

The thing is, is that anything is better than the HC version loop holes. Even if you tore the entire top part of the shoe off, it would look better than the way they come.

 

[prime3446]

The thing is, is that anything is better than the HC version loop holes. Even if you tore the entire top part of the shoe off, it would look better than the way they come.

True true. I kinda wanna try doing a HC mod due to the reason that not many people are doing them you mainly here about the V2. I do agree the better way to go for a good mod would be to go with the V2.

 

[RVLF]

Sometimes it is easier (less frustrating) not to document the process. After the event, there is always that feeling of wow, I wish I captured that.

I will be getting a pair sent to me soon. If the guy wants me to sock toe his shoes, I will video the whole process.

I kind of think that it is better to document every steps so you don't forget what you made good or wrong. And it is mostly for sharing knowledge with others
yep, filming the sock toe method of yours will be a great help ! Thanks for that

True true. I kinda wanna try doing a HC mod due to the reason that not many people are doing them you mainly here about the V2. I do agree the better way to go for a good mod would be to go with the V2.

yes, the HC are so bad to start with, but it is a good thing to try and error process... And they're so bad that every mod looks better so it is really a great reward to see them change for some good at every steps I don't regret buying them for that and it is great to experiment on it like you did with the upper. I might come up with a mod like this one with a different approach. But this upper is so baaaaaad.... Need to redo everything on this...

Btw, here is the thing i wanted to show you guys :


They are self standing and "shapeable" (to a certain point) now :devil

 

[KGC]

Guys found someone to buy the gray fabric for V2S? I saw the site posted a few days ago but I'm not sure.

 

[RVLF]

New mod : Frosted bubbles

1 - Put some masking tape :


2 - Apply the varnish :


3 - Get rid of the tape :


Only 2 layer of varnish + white pigments and voila ! No more visible GYR text :


- - - EDIT - - -

I just found something interesting :
http://www.123dapp.com/obj-Catch/Nike-MAG/1071711
:ninja

 

[cavx]

I just found something interesting :
http://www.123dapp.com/obj-Catch/Nike-MAG/1071711
:ninja

Yeah, so dino is now on the banned members list (not sure why) and this project gave way to the CP-3D Ankle Buckle being made. Technically, all the parts from the shoe could have been created, but only a select few would be able to do anything with them due to the complexity and cost of molding and casting.

The buckle was the only part made which allows a print and play upgrade.

 

[Gline]

New mod : Frosted bubbles


1 - Put some masking tape :
View attachment 567709View attachment 567708


2 - Apply the varnish :
View attachment 567710


3 - Get rid of the tape :
View attachment 567711View attachment 567712


Only 2 layer of varnish + white pigments and voila ! No more visible GYR text :
View attachment 567713


- - - EDIT - - -


I just found something interesting :
http://www.123dapp.com/obj-Catch/Nike-MAG/1071711
:ninja

great, now don't forget to put it at heat with hair dryer or heatgun after it will finish to remove the glossy finish like mine.

 

[RVLF]

Yeah, so dino is now on the banned members list (not sure why) and this project gave way to the CP-3D Ankle Buckle being made. Technically, all the parts from the shoe could have been created, but only a select few would be able to do anything with them due to the complexity and cost of molding and casting.

The buckle was the only part made which allows a print and play upgrade.

When i found that 3D scan, my intention was to find a 3D model and... You got it... Find a 3d print service and make an ankle buckle.
But it is impossible to figure out the price without having the file and send to them to get a quote :-/

i might make the model roughly by myself and do that to have an idea of the price. And maybe the heel cup to. But I'm not sure of the materials and the finish of these printed objects. Do you know something about it ?

great, now don't forget to put it at heat with hair dryer or heatgun after it will finish to remove the glossy finish like mine.

ok, but actually, i did add a glossy varnish on the frosted coat to get a better finish. But if you say that will make this less glossy, i might give it a go.
thanks for your help on this Monsieur

 

[cavx]

Do you know something about it ?

The only parts you can get 3D printed so far are

RIGHT

LEFT

A heel cup needs to be molded from rubber. A 3D print is only useful as a master for making a mold of. This is why (apart from possible branding issue) he didn't release it.

 

[RVLF]

Wow ok i see what you mean by "expensive" as you need to get two printed that makes this ankle buckle 70 CA$ for me....
and when i have a master for molding, how much would it cost to cast some rubber inside it x 2 ?
What kind of rubber ? I don't know nothing about molding and rubbers ^^
After, I guess the sole would be the most expensive part to make... (But I need one) :-D

yes, probably the branding problem for the heel cups... He sould made them anyway but without the nike mag on it and we could add it by ourselves

seriously, these shoes are driving me crazy

 

[Timelord4]

New mod : Frosted bubbles

1 - Put some masking tape :
View attachment 567709View attachment 567708

2 - Apply the varnish :
View attachment 567710

3 - Get rid of the tape :
View attachment 567711View attachment 567712

Only 2 layer of varnish + white pigments and voila ! No more visible GYR text :
View attachment 567713

- - - EDIT - - -

I just found something interesting :
http://www.123dapp.com/obj-Catch/Nike-MAG/1071711
:ninja

What varnish?! Any? Or a certain type/brand?!

 

[RVLF]

No special brand, i used the nail varnish of my girlfriend and mixed it with some white pigments (just a tiny bit) and run some tests on a plastic bottle.

 

[cavx]

Wow ok i see what you mean by "expensive" as you need to get two printed that makes this ankle buckle 70 CA$ for me....
and when i have a master for molding, how much would it cost to cast some rubber inside it x 2 ?
What kind of rubber ? I don't know nothing about molding and rubbers ^^
After, I guess the sole would be the most expensive part to make... (But I need one) :-D

yes, probably the branding problem for the heel cups... He sould made them anyway but without the nike mag on it and we could add it by ourselves

seriously, these shoes are driving me crazy

Yeah maybe that could have worked.

So you buy the prints. Then you have to fill the inside with a clay that has been tested and proven not to contain any sulfur. I used Plasticine for this part. You need to make a base so the part sits up at least 1/2" (12.7mm). You need to plan how you intend to fill the mold, plan air vents and also add some "registration points" for the 2nd part of the 2 part mold.

You build a mold box around this that is at least 1/2" higher and wider than the largest parts of the master part. You have to make sure this wall is "water tight" right around your part so your silicone does not leak all over the floor.

Silicone costs about $70/KG and you would need at least 2.5KG per buckle. If you want good molds, then you need to degas the silicone and therefore need a silicone that has a long potlife (over 15min). Once you mix, degas and pour the silicone, you have to let this part cure properly before de-molding. By demolding, you only break away the wall so that you can lift the block of rubber and flip it over and pour the 2nd part of the 2 part mold. Once you demold, you then have to remove the clay without disturbing the master part. If the master part comes out or breaks the seal at this stage, you have to start all over again.

Once you have the inside all cleaned out, you can set you plugs for the air vents and get ready to pour the 2nd part.

When I get around to doing this, I will make my inner part fit like a plug inside the outer part so there can be no leaks. You often see 2 part molds being made with a seam right down the middle. based on my experiences, this not the best way to do this. In the case of this part, you also want to create a seam that follows the thin edge of the part so you don't have to clean up the surfaces later on.

I would also leave a small amount of clay (smoothed out) inside the master parts so as to make the wall thicker. I would also sculpt a battery box out to allow a 9V to sit inside the cavity later on. You can even add channels for the running of the wires.

So once the molds are made (say about 5KG of silicone is used), you then have to mix and pour an flexible rubber into the molds so you parts are also flexible. I think the same rubber I am using on the clear soles will be ideal for this. I will have to mix a white pigment into the clear prior to degassing.

So not cheap for a one off and why the 3D printed parts is actually an affordable option. I'd say at a guess, a pair of cast rubber buckles will end up costing $60 to buy.

 

[mtortori65]

3D print services are very expensive. I have used a flexible filament before and the parts come out decent; plus, it would be a lot cheaper on a personal 3D printer. The only problem is the 3D files are not available and would have to be created. Would love to try this out.

 

[DSplayer]

I just visited jedifyfe's instagram and he mentioned that the height of the HC's are 19cm and the RD and V2s are the same height. He also said how to flatten the laces with a clothes iron.