NIKE MAG Knockoffs

[AlexBC]

Hmm. I actually was going to go the heat form route on the heel. Now you have me guessing.

 

[Jedifyfe]

Alex, I heat formed my shoes and they retain the shape and become more rigid...

 

[AlexBC]

That's what I thought you did. I'll be cutting out the proper uppers tonight.

Btw, Jedifyfe, does the foam of your upper curve underneath or does the foam stop at the lip of the midsole?

 

[AlexBC]

Btw, Cavx. I think the seam in the grey material you're referring to is so that you can get a mirror image of the stitch in the material as it wraps around the form of the shoe on both sides.

At least, that's the only reason I can think of.

 

[Caloss]

Looks great just ajust the ear holes allitle more not so less round an big more triangle an smaller the front is 100% accredit But pull YOUR SIDE( < ) ( > )allitle more frontward not so far back ..good free hand job /my hat goes off to you.. stay with the good work.

 

[AlexBC]

Looks great just ajust the ear holes allitle more not so less round an big more triangle an smaller the front is 100% accredit But pull YOUR SIDE( < ) ( > )allitle more frontward not so far back ..good free hand job /my hat goes off to you.. stay with the good work.

Thanks But this is really only a quick and dirty test just to see how easy it is to cut and shape EVA. The final upper will have all the things you mentioned.

Caloss, quick question. What do you mean by "side". Which side of the shoe? Top of the shoe or the toe area?

 

[cavx]

Btw, Cavx. I think the seam in the grey material you're referring to is so that you can get a mirror image of the stitch in the material as it wraps around the form of the shoe on both sides.

At least, that's the only reason I can think of.

Possibly. We will know soon enough. I took the massive leap of faith and today did this...

This was done with a hot air gun and it is a little scary just how easy the rubber comes away. Will de-sole the size 8's as well soon.

 

[cloneprops]

I think ,(its my opinion!!!!!!) that the original mags was made only with simple planar parts cutted strategically.In my mags prototypes im using a pieces without heat deformations, I use my 3D model of the cloth part and I make a "unwrapping process" to obtain the planar cutting pieces(something like pepakura does with 3D models,but pepakura make a lots of cuts!!!!) but in that case the program prepares the piece with elasticity values of the fabric. I make completely the cloth part with only 3 pieces of fabric. Another important question is:
1-heating pieces works well wearing it??
2- and dont deform wearing it?????

Lot of questions and one main objetive, guys!!!

 

[airair]

hey cloneprops, do you have any new pics yet?

my budget is not enough to stretch to 500+ to 3000 for a pair of mags, so im going for a scratch build based on kmag v1.

And ive been told the new kmag v2 is more accurate to the real shoe, so im hoping we will get a wearable pair of cheap mags for under 150.

Only a few more weeks left.

 

[AlexBC]

I think ,(its my opinion!!!!!!) that the original mags was made only with simple planar parts cutted strategically.In my mags prototypes im using a pieces without heat deformations, I use my 3D model of the cloth part and I make a "unwrapping process" to obtain the planar cutting pieces(something like pepakura does with 3D models,but pepakura make a lots of cuts!!!!) but in that case the program prepares the piece with elasticity values of the fabric. I make completely the cloth part with only 3 pieces of fabric. Another important question is:
1-heating pieces works well wearing it??
2- and dont deform wearing it?????

Lot of questions and one main objetive, guys!!!

Same here. Only three pieces of fabric for the grey matetial.

The way i'm doing the sole is in two sections as that's the only way I can get the sloping effect without using castings. Tokyo apartments are not ideal for that kind of work.

 

[cloneprops]

Im preparing a new shoes(with photos soon , but Im in the beach,and I dont have any tools,and pieces..I have only the sea!!
Tokio!!! Good place!!!
My piecesne at botton to stitch perfectly to the urethane sole,and two that conforms the "visible" fabric.all seamed.sole stiched to urethane

 

[AlexBC]

Im preparing a new shoes(with photos soon , but Im in the beach,and I dont have any tools,and pieces..I have only the sea!!
Tokio!!! Good place!!!
My piecesne at botton to stitch perfectly to the urethane sole,and two that conforms the "visible" fabric.all seamed.sole stiched to urethane

Tokyo is great for BttF stuff. It's so popular over here. No joke.

Speaking of the Mags the visible fabric of the 2011 seems to meet at the back of the shoe and on one of the ribs. Jedifyfe did a great job hiding it.

 

[cavx]

Tokyo is great for BttF stuff. It's so popular over here. No joke.

So want to visit Japan some day soon.

Speaking of the Mags the visible fabric of the 2011 seems to meet at the back of the shoe and on one of the ribs. Jedifyfe did a great job hiding it.

The shoe has two seems. One on the back and other on the instep about where the 2nd (from the toe) lace is. Mine will probably be where they are in the K-MAG as that is what I will be using for the base pattern. I would like to do the masking tape thing before cutting these up, though I need to remove the upper anyway to mod the soles.

 

[airair]

here's my current template in foam along with the baked heel cup for the left shoe.

only thing left now is to make molds of the left/right heel cups and the little clear led light covers which go onto them.

Just trying to think of the easiest way to make the heel cup mold in silicone in a 2 part mold. since its a curved shape, im thinking of just getting some cardboard and making a curved shape around it. Will save me silicone as i don't want to fill that massive hole inside the heel cup, its just a waste of silicone.

 

[cloneprops]

Heel cups and soles I think is the most complex mold that I ever made in my life.If I have a easiest way, im going directly to that option!!!.If you dont make air exit holes in strategic parts of the mold, probably the final piece has a LOT of bubbles on the surface.its important the position of the piece, the enter compound position an direction, ect ect...theres not easiest way in my opinion.

 

[airair]

Heel cups and soles I think is the most complex mold that I ever made in my life.If I have a easiest way, im going directly to that option!!!.If you dont make air exit holes in strategic parts of the mold, probably the final piece has a LOT of bubbles on the surface.its important the position of the piece, the enter compound position an direction, ect ect...theres not easiest way in my opinion.

yes, its difficult to make molds. but it depends on how you do it. For my ankle buckle, its a simple two part mold in silicone.

for heel cup, im going to make mold using carboard shape around it, to save on silicone, and add a pour hole and air vent.

Considering i had no knowledge of molding or casting less than 3 weeks back, ive managed to successfully make an ankle buckle mold and now hopefully heel cup mold which i will be casting in rubber.

so i will have my own custom made ankle buckle and heel cup. the only thing left will just be the stitching of upper piece, and then painting soles, finding a clear rubber sheet for the soles.

I'm going for a more "movie" style, where it looks close enough. It doesn't have to be perfect, but it will be close enough for me.

That is unless kmag v2 is completely accurate, which will mean any other versions, ie poons, and homemade ones obsolete.

 

[AlexBC]

yes, its difficult to make molds. but it depends on how you do it. For my ankle buckle, its a simple two part mold in silicone.

for heel cup, im going to make mold using carboard shape around it, to save on silicone, and add a pour hole and air vent.

Considering i had no knowledge of molding or casting less than 3 weeks back, ive managed to successfully make an ankle buckle mold and now hopefully heel cup mold which i will be casting in rubber.

so i will have my own custom made ankle buckle and heel cup. the only thing left will just be the stitching of upper piece, and then painting soles, finding a clear rubber sheet for the soles.

I'm going for a more "movie" style, where it looks close enough. It doesn't have to be perfect, but it will be close enough for me.

That is unless kmag v2 is completely accurate, which will mean any other versions, ie poons, and homemade ones obsolete.

I'm wondering if it's worth me trying to achieve the splayed sole or not.

What will you be doing for the sole pattern on the clear rubber?

 

[airair]

I'm wondering if it's worth me trying to achieve the splayed sole or not.

What will you be doing for the sole pattern on the clear rubber?

im going to leave the clear sole bit right to the end.

im sure there is some type of clear rubber sheeting which is usable.

i reckon some type of clear rubber sheet that is premade which you can just cut out shapes from. it doesnt have to be for shoes, as long its strong, and durable, i reckon it should do the job. its just a matter of finding it, im sure some sheeting must exist.

 

[cavx]

Airair, you should be able to fill the void in the Heel Cup with plasticine. The silicone should not stick because it is oil based. It is soft and you can then dig it out to make the second half. If you are wanting make the inside of the mold round, maybe use some pipe.

AlexBC, I am thinking about making the part for the clear soles from Plaster Of Paris. My thought process is to take some POP and put it on the same mat I used for the other CCCE soles I did and then sit the shoe into the plaster so it will take the impression of the sole. I can wrap the sides up and tape them to make the wedge shape. If this works, I can then make a 2 part silicone mold, then cast in CCCE and it should fit 100%.

Whilst I still want thinking about that polyester for the texturing, I found a product called KIWI pollish. It is essentially a stain for leather and it comes in white, black and brown. I am sure I have seen this in grey too somewhere, however given if you mix the black and white together you get a grey, I might just do that and they way I can get the shade that I want. I am thinking starting with 50% of the white and adding black. If it is not dark enough, I add more black. If I go too dark, I'll have more white to lighten it down. I think this stuff will stain the foam of the midsole based on how hard it is to get off your hands. It should soak in.

I also noticed that after the heat treatment, the cells on the surface have tightened up. I had creases from wearing these and they went smooth again almost like when the shoes were new.

 

[cloneprops]

yes, its difficult to make molds. but it depends on how you do it. For my ankle buckle, its a simple two part mold in silicone.
Considering i had no knowledge of molding or casting less than 3 weeks back, ive managed to successfully make an ankle buckle mold and now hopefully heel cup mold which i will be casting in rubber.

Looks so good. congratulations! Im waiting to see new pics too!!!