Need an electronics expert

So I've got a Voodoo FX light kit for my Finemolds 1/48 X-wing. My original plan was to make the thing self contained becasue I didn't want to cut into the hull. I had hoped to put a small battery into the front landing gear bay, but have learned there's no battery available that small. So, I've decided to put it on a stand with a plug on the top so I can remove it at my leisur. I was thinking of using a headphone plug and jack. There's just 2 wires in those right? I mean, I have it aranged so the circuit board is in the hull and I just need to run the 2 battery plug wires down to the base to the battery. I was hoping to put the female plug in the ship and the male plug at the top of the stand.

Any ideas or advise on this from people that know their electronics?
 
So I've got a Voodoo FX light kit for my Finemolds 1/48 X-wing. My original plan was to make the thing self contained becasue I didn't want to cut into the hull. I had hoped to put a small battery into the front landing gear bay, but have learned there's no battery available that small. So, I've decided to put it on a stand with a plug on the top so I can remove it at my leisur. I was thinking of using a headphone plug and jack. There's just 2 wires in those right? I mean, I have it aranged so the circuit board is in the hull and I just need to run the 2 battery plug wires down to the base to the battery. I was hoping to put the female plug in the ship and the male plug at the top of the stand.

Any ideas or advise on this from people that know their electronics?

DAMN!!! I wish I could've talked to you first! I have a wiring kit that doesn't use a PC board,just resistors,LEDs,and a couple of 1.4 volt hearing aid batteries! I have shots of mine with the battery compartment open in the hyperdrive motivator behind R2. This is real simple,with nothing to break,or burn out! It's not pretty,but it's functional. I just cut a hole,and made a battery comparment,and contacts from a brass K&S strip. The contacts are screwed in. Your way could work as long as there's no impedence problem.
 
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I did exactly what you are talking about for my SS shuttlecraft. It was what MR did with the Enterprise and it's really easy to do. I can post a few photos if you wish but it's simple using a mono plug and I used a 1/2" aluminum tube. You can use a stereo plug (which has three contacts) if you want to have switching options for the lights. That would give you the option of switching two different parts of the lighting (a common neutral and a contact for each of the two separate portions you want to light). For example on the shuttlecraft I can switch the engines without effecting the interior lighting. Anyway, I can post photos if you wish but it's pretty easy to do as long as you know the positive and negative points on the connectors. Get a meter!

Will
 
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I did exactly what you are talking about for my SS shuttlecraft. It was what MR did with the Enterprise and it's really easy to do. I can post a few photos if you wish but it's simple using a mono plug and I used a 1/2" aluminum tube. You can use a stereo plug (which has three contacts) if you want to have switching options for the lights. That would give you the option of switching two different parts of the lighting (a common neutral and a contact for each of the two separate portions you want to light). For example on the shuttlecraft I can switch the engines without effecting the interior lighting. Anyway, I can post photos if you wish.

Will

Sorry Paul! That's probably what I should have said,instead of being so vague! Do you know which contacts go to the terminals that you want to light this,and which ones power the PC board power grid positive,and negative terminals? Pics would help,as well as any info to how much power(what type of power supply 120vAC,or 9vDC) this PC board is able to handle.
 
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