Here’s a question I’ve been pondering - can you mix different brands of resin and 3D printers?
For example, could I use the Elegoo ABS-like resin (cited above) with an AnyCubic printer? I assume the answer is yes, and that you’d just need the right resin exposure settings adapted for the printer.
Any insights into this?
Sean
I'm using the Elegoo ABS-like resin in an Anycubic Photon Mono.Here’s a question I’ve been pondering - can you mix different brands of resin and 3D printers?
For example, could I use the Elegoo ABS-like resin (cited above) with an AnyCubic printer? I assume the answer is yes, and that you’d just need the right resin exposure settings adapted for the printer.
Any insights into this?
Sean
Yes, I'm using Elegoo standard with my Mono X. I've heard you can mix, and the resin takes the properties of both, components, although i would assume you would have to mix thoroughly.
TazMan2000
I'm using the Elegoo ABS-like resin in an Anycubic Photon Mono.
Thats what I feared! Ah well - Thanks....Yes, with tuning sandpaper. I just call it sandpaper.
TazMan2000
I really wish I could offer you some suggestions because you’ve been such a great help in resolving my resin printer issues. Unfortunately, I don’t have an FDM printer and have zero FDM printing experience.It's my turn to ask for advice. I have a CR-10S and for over a few years I've been having great luck with it. I've exclusively been using CCTREE filament and had no problems until about 6 months ago, where I had to change out my hot end. At the same time I decided to swap out to newer bowden extruder and tweaked my Z-axis motors so they were exactly parallel. For weeks it printed out beautifully, then I ordered some new CCTREE filament. I found out that CCTREE recently changed their recipe.
Now I'm getting clogs like I've never had before. The print surface is properly adjusted, so it's not clogging up because I'm printing to close to the bed. I upped the temp from 200 to 205, and had better luck, but then it happened again. I upped it further to 210 and still I'm having issues. I read about thermal creep, where the hot end starts melting the filament further up the tube, which also can cause clogs, so I cleaned the hot end out, replaced the nozzle, re-inserted the tube all the way down and went back to 200 degrees but nothing has changed. It prints but the hot end isn't laying down a perfect layer and swaths are visibly separated where it should be a consistent layer.
It's a large print taking up a lot of the bed.
I would appreciate any insight. I have switched to other filaments, but that hasn't changed anything. Also, recently, I've put in a roll of PLA Plus, which coincided with the problems, but never thought that the properties of that filament could wreck something.
TazMan2000
I had asked Elegoo specifically about mixing their resins to create custom colors (like mixing red and blue to make a purple color) and they did not recommend doing this (but with no further elaboration about why not). I would have thought same brand, same UV wavelength, same exposure settings, that the resins could be mixed and work the same, but Elegoo seems to think otherwise about this.Yes, I'm using Elegoo standard with my Mono X. I've heard you can mix, and the resin takes the properties of both, components, although i would assume you would have to mix thoroughly.
TazMan2000
I would probably try a few different kinds of filaments with smaller prints, and see how that goes. There is always a chance the hotend is heating up more or less than what the display says it's set at too. I've heard that once you start modifying these printers you can have odd things happen. Meanwhile though, everybody seems to mod them in some fashion, so who knows. I haven't modified or altered my CR-10 in any way and I print primarily PLA plus through it. It doesn't seem to be any different than printing regular PLA, I'm not switching out nozzles more often or anything like that.It's my turn to ask for advice. I have a CR-10S and for over a few years I've been having great luck with it. I've exclusively been using CCTREE filament and had no problems until about 6 months ago, where I had to change out my hot end. At the same time I decided to swap out to newer bowden extruder and tweaked my Z-axis motors so they were exactly parallel. For weeks it printed out beautifully, then I ordered some new CCTREE filament. I found out that CCTREE recently changed their recipe.
Now I'm getting clogs like I've never had before. The print surface is properly adjusted, so it's not clogging up because I'm printing to close to the bed. I upped the temp from 200 to 205, and had better luck, but then it happened again. I upped it further to 210 and still I'm having issues. I read about thermal creep, where the hot end starts melting the filament further up the tube, which also can cause clogs, so I cleaned the hot end out, replaced the nozzle, re-inserted the tube all the way down and went back to 200 degrees but nothing has changed. It prints but the hot end isn't laying down a perfect layer and swaths are visibly separated where it should be a consistent layer.
It's a large print taking up a lot of the bed.
I would appreciate any insight. I have switched to other filaments, but that hasn't changed anything. Also, recently, I've put in a roll of PLA Plus, which coincided with the problems, but never thought that the properties of that filament could wreck something.
TazMan2000
Nope, you can't really "tune" that stuff out. FDM printers, especially where there is supports play into the build, you're always going to get odd textures and stepping. You can try reprinting the piece in a different orientation, and maybe minimize the texturing to one small area on the model. You can also reduce your layer size, I have printed with a layer size as thin as 0.02 and gotten very smooth results, but it takes a lot longer to print the model. Needle files, sandpaper, glazing spot putty, auto body filler primer, and rattle can paint are what I use to smooth my FDM prints out.View attachment 1459338View attachment 1459339
Do getting a lot of texture on the bottom sides with supports, can I tune some of that away?
I would probably try a few different kinds of filaments with smaller prints, and see how that goes. There is always a chance the hotend is heating up more or less than what the display says it's set at too. I've heard that once you start modifying these printers you can have odd things happen. Meanwhile though, everybody seems to mod them in some fashion, so who knows. I haven't modified or altered my CR-10 in any way and I print primarily PLA plus through it. It doesn't seem to be any different than printing regular PLA, I'm not switching out nozzles more often or anything like that.
Maybe do some searching over on youtube to see if anybody ever had this issue with that hot end. Good luck to you.
I had asked Elegoo specifically about mixing their resins to create custom colors (like mixing red and blue to make a purple color) and they did not recommend doing this (but with no further elaboration about why not). I would have thought same brand, same UV wavelength, same exposure settings, that the resins could be mixed and work the same, but Elegoo seems to think otherwise about this.