My Adventures in 3D Printing
- Thread starter masterjedi322
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TazMan2000
Master Member
Yes, with tuning sandpaper. I just call it sandpaper. 
TazMan2000
TazMan2000
Here’s a question I’ve been pondering - can you mix different brands of resin and 3D printers?
For example, could I use the Elegoo ABS-like resin (cited above) with an AnyCubic printer? I assume the answer is yes, and that you’d just need the right resin exposure settings adapted for the printer.
Any insights into this?
Sean
For example, could I use the Elegoo ABS-like resin (cited above) with an AnyCubic printer? I assume the answer is yes, and that you’d just need the right resin exposure settings adapted for the printer.
Any insights into this?
Sean
TazMan2000
Master Member
Yes, I'm using Elegoo standard with my Mono X. I've heard you can mix, and the resin takes the properties of both, components, although i would assume you would have to mix thoroughly.
TazMan2000
Noeland
Master Member
I'm using the Elegoo ABS-like resin in an Anycubic Photon Mono.
Ah very good! Glad to hear it! That certainly opens the possibilities of resins that I can use.
Thanks!
Sean
Thats what I feared! Ah well - Thanks....Yes, with tuning sandpaper. I just call it sandpaper.
TazMan2000
TazMan2000
Master Member
It's my turn to ask for advice. I have a CR-10S and for over a few years I've been having great luck with it. I've exclusively been using CCTREE filament and had no problems until about 6 months ago, where I had to change out my hot end. At the same time I decided to swap out to newer bowden extruder and tweaked my Z-axis motors so they were exactly parallel. For weeks it printed out beautifully, then I ordered some new CCTREE filament. I found out that CCTREE recently changed their recipe.
Now I'm getting clogs like I've never had before. The print surface is properly adjusted, so it's not clogging up because I'm printing to close to the bed. I upped the temp from 200 to 205, and had better luck, but then it happened again. I upped it further to 210 and still I'm having issues. I read about thermal creep, where the hot end starts melting the filament further up the tube, which also can cause clogs, so I cleaned the hot end out, replaced the nozzle, re-inserted the tube all the way down and went back to 200 degrees but nothing has changed. It prints but the hot end isn't laying down a perfect layer and swaths are visibly separated where it should be a consistent layer.
It's a large print taking up a lot of the bed.
I would appreciate any insight. I have switched to other filaments, but that hasn't changed anything. Also, recently, I've put in a roll of PLA Plus, which coincided with the problems, but never thought that the properties of that filament could wreck something.
TazMan2000
Now I'm getting clogs like I've never had before. The print surface is properly adjusted, so it's not clogging up because I'm printing to close to the bed. I upped the temp from 200 to 205, and had better luck, but then it happened again. I upped it further to 210 and still I'm having issues. I read about thermal creep, where the hot end starts melting the filament further up the tube, which also can cause clogs, so I cleaned the hot end out, replaced the nozzle, re-inserted the tube all the way down and went back to 200 degrees but nothing has changed. It prints but the hot end isn't laying down a perfect layer and swaths are visibly separated where it should be a consistent layer.
It's a large print taking up a lot of the bed.
I would appreciate any insight. I have switched to other filaments, but that hasn't changed anything. Also, recently, I've put in a roll of PLA Plus, which coincided with the problems, but never thought that the properties of that filament could wreck something.
TazMan2000
I really wish I could offer you some suggestions because you’ve been such a great help in resolving my resin printer issues. Unfortunately, I don’t have an FDM printer and have zero FDM printing experience.
Hoping one of the other members can chime in!
Sean
Starbase101
Sr Member
I had asked Elegoo specifically about mixing their resins to create custom colors (like mixing red and blue to make a purple color) and they did not recommend doing this (but with no further elaboration about why not). I would have thought same brand, same UV wavelength, same exposure settings, that the resins could be mixed and work the same, but Elegoo seems to think otherwise about this.
Noeland
Master Member
I would probably try a few different kinds of filaments with smaller prints, and see how that goes. There is always a chance the hotend is heating up more or less than what the display says it's set at too. I've heard that once you start modifying these printers you can have odd things happen. Meanwhile though, everybody seems to mod them in some fashion, so who knows.
I haven't modified or altered my CR-10 in any way and I print primarily PLA plus through it. It doesn't seem to be any different than printing regular PLA, I'm not switching out nozzles more often or anything like that.Maybe do some searching over on youtube to see if anybody ever had this issue with that hot end. Good luck to you.
Noeland
Master Member
Nope, you can't really "tune" that stuff out. FDM printers, especially where there is supports play into the build, you're always going to get odd textures and stepping. You can try reprinting the piece in a different orientation, and maybe minimize the texturing to one small area on the model. You can also reduce your layer size, I have printed with a layer size as thin as 0.02 and gotten very smooth results, but it takes a lot longer to print the model. Needle files, sandpaper, glazing spot putty, auto body filler primer, and rattle can paint are what I use to smooth my FDM prints out.
TazMan2000
Master Member
I would probably try a few different kinds of filaments with smaller prints, and see how that goes. There is always a chance the hotend is heating up more or less than what the display says it's set at too. I've heard that once you start modifying these printers you can have odd things happen. Meanwhile though, everybody seems to mod them in some fashion, so who knows.
Maybe do some searching over on youtube to see if anybody ever had this issue with that hot end. Good luck to you.
I elected to change the hot end, since I agreed that it could be faulty, or perhaps the sensor is, but I guess I wasn't careful ordering the hot end. It said it was compatible with a CR-10S, but I guess there is and Ender CR-10S as well. The hot end said it was a 24V40W one and after looking at the specs of my printer, I guess I should have ordered a 12V40W. So after soldered everything together, I turned it on at the system said the hot end was already at 357 degrees.
Oh well. 20 bucks wasted. I ordered a proper one from Amazon and it will arrive on Monday.
If that doesn't work, I guess I'll upgrade and buy a Ender 5 plus.
TazMan2000
TazMan2000
Master Member
I'm kind of surprised that they didn't condone mixing colours of resins. I guess if you have a little blue in your vat, you're either supposed to continue using blue or throw the remaining resin in the garbage (environmentally disposed of correctly of course). But then again, different colours may have different curing characteristics, so in a way, I can see their point. I'm sure its a cut-throat business, so if they give you some advice that causes your prints to fail, you may not buy from them again and go with a different vendor.
I think the clear colours, I should be easily mixable, but I've had my own issues when I switched to Elegoo Black resin on my Mars. I had failed prints all of the time until I found that the Chitubox curing settings were very different on black resin as compared to grey. I had better luck after programing the correct resin.
TazMan2000
Starbase101
Sr Member
Elegoo has a table at their website that documents the curing times, first layer exposure, and layer height for each color of each resin type for each of their machines. Mostly they're the same, but there are a few entries on the table that are different. And yes, the black resin has a full second longer exposure time on their table than the grey, consistently for each resin type (standard, ABS-like, and water-washable).
This was just posted. It covers switching from CB to Lychee for supports
When I first got my printer, I tried the stock AnyCubic app, Chitubox, and Lychee. I instantly gravitated toward Lychee and have been using it strictly since. I find it relatively simple to use, and the auto-support feature hasn’t failed me yet.
Sean
Sean
Lychee has a better 3D ui and better gizmo for object manipulation. CB has some weird auto snap in orientation that really annoys me. That alone made me not use CB
Another noob question - how do you break up large pieces to fit onto a smaller build plate?
I’m looking into printing some armor pieces for an upcoming project, and a few tests have shown a handful of the pieces will not fit on the build plate. Is there a good way to break them up into smaller pieces for printing? I’m concerned that breaking them up in a CAD program or something will leave small gaps.
Sean
I’m looking into printing some armor pieces for an upcoming project, and a few tests have shown a handful of the pieces will not fit on the build plate. Is there a good way to break them up into smaller pieces for printing? I’m concerned that breaking them up in a CAD program or something will leave small gaps.
Sean
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