My Adventures in 3D Printing

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ID10T

Sr Member
Test prints went well!

FFB73A9E-E5C5-467A-9F9C-2E6CB29F8A81.jpeg


Parts are in the plasma booth curing.

now loading software into my tough book to do simple grenade tops next.
 

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ID10T

Sr Member
Loaded software, got an STL file, put it in chitubix, duplicated it (to print two), hollowed it out and sliced it.

Loaded in the printer and it’s printing now...

here’s another trick- this is a cheap rock tumbler from harbor freight. I use it to mix rattle cans but it works well for resin too!
C5FA0200-1F22-452B-B06B-E17948B3F159.jpeg
 

ID10T

Sr Member
First print failed (sort-of).

It is well adhered to the build plate but part way through printing it was happier stuck to the FEP. So, I got another tank and after cleaning everything, and tweaking the layer exposure time up a tick, we’re back at it.

Another note: attach the cover gasket with some scotch tape. When I removed it, the gasket fell off and fell directly into the vat. Naturally. That’s fixed now.

I could see it “pulling” the FEP on the other print. I think it’s just too scratched up. I’ll order some new film.

Smart idea (pats self on back): spare tanks. Get them. Now.

Smell is not bad at all. It shouldn’t be in the discussion. Acetone and isopropyl have stronger smell.
 

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ID10T

Sr Member
Re-run seems to be going well!

I paused it just past 50% and it looks good. I added a bit note resin too.

Very pleased so far. It’ll be fun using the wash function on the Mercury too. I’ll get some files sliced over the weekend for the big build...

I do have a question for the veterans. I have a com link file and there are three pieces. The tall tube, the “head”and the pocket clip. The tube is on the plate, but for some reason the “head” is off the plate a bit. How do I move that element down onto the plate? I can’t figure that out.
 

masterjedi322

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Re-run seems to be going well!

I paused it just past 50% and it looks good. I added a bit note resin too.

Very pleased so far. It’ll be fun using the wash function on the Mercury too. I’ll get some files sliced over the weekend for the big build...

I do have a question for the veterans. I have a com link file and there are three pieces. The tall tube, the “head”and the pocket clip. The tube is on the plate, but for some reason the “head” is off the plate a bit. How do I move that element down onto the plate? I can’t figure that out.
Awesome! Glad to hear you’re up and running!

As for moving parts onto the plate, I’m not too familiar with Chitubox, but Lychee has a function under Move > Onto Plate. You then click which surface of the object you want put on the plate. I would presume Chitubox has something similar?

My only gripe with that approach is, it seems Lychee will automatically move your part off of the plate if you use the auto-support function. That could just be my inexperience with it though…

Sean
 

Iskelderon

Well-Known Member
Been having so much fun with my resin printer, I jumped on AnyCubic’s newest FDM printer, the Vyper - [Pre-order]Vyper(Limited to 3000 units) They are scheduled to ship out by the end of the month.

I’m looking forward to seeing how the FDM and resin prints compare, especially as I start printing my first armor pieces for an upcoming build.

Sean
You'll really enjoy having the best of both worlds and after a while, splitting models into components to print on the resin printer and ones for the filament printer will become second nature.

I'm sure you've already seen this, but it's worth mentioning again, since this lists many useful options for adding the finishing touches to filament prints: 3D Printing
 
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ID10T

Sr Member
I have been burning through resin! (Into my second liter already)

And learning stuff- the hard way... I inadvertently let the vat run dry yesterday. I won't make that mistake again!
IMG_2185[1].JPG


And I found a solution to that problem- a maker in Germany designed some parts for an auto-fill mechanism which fits under the hood!

But I did successfully print the com link- not screen accurate, but close. It'll do for now. Just got the silver paint on (need some clean-up); I can weather it tomorrow.

IMG_2179[1].JPG


IMG_2188[1].JPG
 

Pyrotechnic

New Member
I can move all three elements together, but I haven’t figured out how to move them individually.

And yes, it’s chitubox.
If you go to 'Rotate' on the left, you can select 'Flatten by face' and you can then select a face to be parallel with the build face.

Make sure you don't have 'Select All' ticked above the file list on the right (after unticking it, it can sometimes be a bit of a PITA to unselect them all to get just 1 selected, just keep clicking around).

Bonus tip: If you want to reduce the 'white nastiness' you're getting around the outside towards the bottom, you need to increase your 'light off delay'. The more you increase it, the better it'll get, but also the longer your print will take. You can also make a small vent hole in the model nearer the build plate. The issue is caused because the resin is still settling when the exposure starts, this is because you're basically printing a cup and so when it's lowered into the resin the air is trapped inside and pushes the resin around.
 

ID10T

Sr Member
Well, part of the problem was the part I thought was off the plate had a pilot sticking out of it to insert into the body piece. I now know how to manipulate things better to see that.

It printed fine.

I know about “toggling” when there are multiple files on the plate at once, but all three pieces of this thing are in a single file.

I completed the 10+ hour print this afternoon. Learned a lot on that as well.
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These parts really pushed the envelope for this machine. I actually need to reset zero because I jogged to the top of the screw travel (to get the plate out) and I don’t think this has an absolute encoder on it...
 

PhoenixVader

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Well for what it is worth I have been 3d printing for around 5 years now. My first was a CR10S. I love this printer. I did do several upgrades to it so so it is no where near stock, but I am a bit crazy.

My next was an Anycubic MEGA S. It is a solid printer and worked pretty much out of the box. I just followed the instructions on bed leveling and was off and running. After about 6 months of printing I started to use blue tape on the be though as it had worn too much from printing.

I then lost my mind and bought a Anycubic Predator Delta Printer. It is MASSIVE and prints up to 18 inches tall. I am getting rid of it though as it takes up too much room and I am down sizing.

Lastly, I bought an Anycubic Photon Mono. This is a resin printer and it was a bit daunting to switch to resin after working with filament printers for 4 and a half years. But I took the plunge and was happily surprised when after following the instructions again on build plate leveling it printed the test print PERFECTLY! Now I have had some issues but they have mostly been because I have screwed up, not knowing this type of printer.

But I tell you, I only keep my filament printers to print LARGE items now. The resin is just too awesome to describe. The detail is insane! Fingers on prints that are 1/64 inch!! Perfect and delicate.

So that is my two cents worth. If you want more info, just PM me.

thomas ;)
 

ID10T

Sr Member
Ok. I loaded Chitubox onto my MacBook Pro and it is running as slow as mole’s asses and only showing part of the 3-d model; not full height. The fans are running like an Airbus too. That’s unusual.

Slicing is taking a dog’s age too. Any tips?

The Mac is an older one but I added a SSD and doubled the ram. Usually pretty fast. Nothing but web browser windows open in the background.
 

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ID10T

Sr Member
I did a software update on the Macintoaster last night. Chitubox is the latest version.

I'll see if that's any better...
 

masterjedi322

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
And I found a solution to that problem- a maker in Germany designed some parts for an auto-fill mechanism which fits under the hood!
That sounds interesting! Care to share?
Ok. I loaded Chitubox onto my MacBook Pro and it is running as slow as mole’s asses and only showing part of the 3-d model; not full height. The fans are running like an Airbus too. That’s unusual.

Slicing is taking a dog’s age too. Any tips?

The Mac is an older one but I added a SSD and doubled the ram. Usually pretty fast. Nothing but web browser windows open in the background.
I‘m running Lychee on an iMac Pro, and it handles the 3D models fine, but slicing takes a few minutes. Remember - there’s a lot of data in a 3D model, so manipulating and slicing one will tax your computer.

Sean
 

ID10T

Sr Member
I know it's slow, but my POS antique Toughbook shows the entire model and operates faster, with less memory available to do so. Fingers crossed the update to the Macbook Pro will help.

And here's the filler thing: UV Resin extention (200ml) VAT extender for ELEGOO Mars by eytec It is from a maker in Germany, so the bottle links are German Amazon offerings, but probably Chinese origin and available elsewhere. I have not dug deeper than reading a bit of the info on Thingverse.

But it took some searching to find this!
 

ID10T

Sr Member
So, whatever was bogging the Mac it has sorted itself out. And I figured the manipulation without a “right click” button. Still not using the latest version of Chitubox, because the Mac doesn’t like the file being delivered as a disc image.

Printed more stuff on Friday but didn’t do another epic run over the weekend. Figured it could use a break.
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These are the “new” grenade tops. I’ll probably print the lowers on Monday.

Then I have another huge project planned, once the rifle is done...
 

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