Metal PKD blaster kit from TipTop Workshop / Anders Pedersen - build log


Sr Member
I count myself VERY fortunate to be one of the first to get their hands on the much-anticipated metal PKD blaster kit from TipTop Workshop based on the amazing 3D files by Anders Pedersen. The development of this beautiful kit has been amply documented by Dave from TipTop in this thread, and it's certainly the case that it's been most enthusiastically looked forward to.

TipTop already make a fantastic resin kit of the blaster, with some metal parts as an optional extra. I, and many others, have built blasters from that kit and loved the results. My own can be seen in this thread. But by casting almost every one of the metal components of the blaster in actual metal, Dave and TipTop have taken this latest kit to a whole new level. Was it worth the wait and the anticipation? Oh yes! Yes, it was!

I'm going to document my build of this kit here. Hopefully, it'll be interesting and helpful to others who are lucky enough to get one of these lovely things!

Part 1: First impressions, prepping the metal parts and first rough assembly


The kit arrived very safely packed in a cardboard box with all the parts wrapped and padded in bubble-wrap and newspaper. My first impression was how very comprehensive the kit is. Other than workshop tools(!) the box contains everything you need to build the blaster down to the last detail, including all the bolts and other fixings like springs and magnets, all the electronics for the green and red LEDs, a pair of flawlessly cast clear amber grips, a set of 5 copper and brass dummy rounds, and a comprehensive illustrated step-by-step build manual that's been updated and improved from the one that Anders produced for his parts originally and that was used for the TipTop resin kit.

Two things absolutely delighted me in particular: the sighting rod is pre-drilled for wiring the green LEDs (you have no idea how much I was dreading doing that, having no pillar drill!) and many of the bolt holes are already tapped (something I could do myself but a really nice extra enhancement anyway!).

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I was super impressed with the quality of the metal castings. Even on a first rough introduction of the parts to each other I could see there would be less cleanup and fitting to be done than there was with the resin parts (and they were bloody good!), especially as there’s no need to make as much allowance for primer and paint thickness (unless you're planning on painting the metal parts... why would you do that! :D)! That allows for much more time to be spent on preparing the parts cosmetically for your chosen final finish.

As well as the main metal parts there is a nice lathe-turned aluminum barrel, and the front support pillar and cylinder bushing are also aluminium.


The only metal part that isn't actually cast in metal is the cylinder itself, due to technical and cost constraints, but as the gun will undoubtedly be mainly used for display and the actual cylinder will hardly be visible once the covers are on this doesn't worry me particularly. The dummy rounds give the cylinder real heft when they're inserted, and I shall try to match the finish of the actual metal parts with paint on the cylinder.

Prepping the metal parts

Obviously, there needs to be some filing, sanding and polishing of the metal parts, for two main reasons.

1. To get rid of the tiny bits of flash at the edges of some of the parts and at the mould seams. These areas are easily dealt with with careful light filing, sanding and then finishing off with scotchbrite.

My technique is to use a needle file first to flatten the raised ridge at the seam until the file starts to abrade the material on the lower side. This generally leaves a dull ‘dip’ next to the raised edge. Then I switch to sanding. I use double-sided emory boards for this in the first instance. They have a coarser side (100 grit) and a slightly finer side (180 grit). The coarse side is used to remove material until the seam has disappeared leaving a shiny but scratched surface across the whole area. Then the 180 grit side is used lightly to start to remove the scratches. I move onto to sanding sponges or pads then, using finer and finer grades to removes the scrarches from the previous pass and build up to a smoother finish.

When the scratches are very fine I alternate between the finer grades of sanding pad and scotchbrite pads. These latter are great since they either act as fine abrasive if you rub hard or a polisher if you use a lighter touch. At this stage I try to make my strokes go in one direction to replicate a machined appearance. Finally I move onto the fvery inest grade of sanding pad (8000 - 12000) with metal polish to achieve the smoothness of the finish I want. This varies from very smooth on the parts that are just going to remain polished (butt plate, outer frame and bolt interior) to marginally less ‘perfect’ on the parts of the gun that will eventually be blued. The polished parts are given a final going over with metal polish applied with a paper towel and then buffed off with a microfibre cloth.

You can hopefully see the difference in the parts in these work-in-progress photos.

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At the same time this process also deals with any minor surface imperfections that you might get on the parts. I try to get rid of the worst of these, but in this case I opted to leave some light marks to eventually replicate the natural wear and tear that you’d get on a weapon that was regularly used.

2. Filing and sanding are also needed to ensure a perfect fit, especially with the parts that move against each other. This is actually much easier with the metal than with the resin version in this respect, since the metal is much more robust than resin and allows a slightly more ‘aggressive’ approach both in the adjustment and in the testing.

The areas that did need a little bit of work to get a perfect fit were the following. I should emphasise that the adjustments here were actually quite minimal as the fit of the parts is really good to begin with. Most of them could be done with a few passes of a file or some light sanding. A couple needed me to break out the Dremel.
  • Where the Steyr pin passes through the Steyr ‘tip’ - the aperture needed slightly enlarging on the inner surface with a small cylindrical grinding bit and/or round needle file
  • The inner front part of the receiver needed widening slightly to accommodate the barrel - you could just about push the barrel through the available gap but it was really tight, and I didn’t want to force it as the edges of the receiver are quite thin. It was so close out-of-the-box, but widening it ever so slightly made the barrel fit a lot more comfortably while still keeping it nice and snug and immoveable.
  • At the bottom of the Bulldog frame the gap where the triggers sit needed enlarging very slightly to allow the front trigger to move freely. This was a bit fiddly to get at but relatively easy with a flat needle file and a cut-down sanding stick.
  • A tiny amount was taken off the width of the cylinder pivot arm where it slides into the frame to allow it to swing freely without scraping the edges.
  • The bolt and the interior of the receiver needed a bit of adjustment so that the bolt could rotate freely and the rear cap of the receiver fitted flush when the bolt is closed. This mostly involved filing small amounts of material away from strategic areas where the bolt was ‘catching’ slightly. I recommend investing in a bottle of Dykem layout fluid or similar to identify exactly where the rubbing is happening rather than guessing!
  • The base of the bolt lever and the slot it fits down into when closed needed a tiny amount of filing and sanding for a perfect fit.
  • Some drilling and work with a round needle file was also needed to open up some holes where the pins for the Bulldog handle and the hammer go through the frame. The pin holes for the triggers also needed enlarging slightly (be very careful not to overdo this as the pins still need to fit tightly into the frame!)
  • The slot in the rear receiver end cap and the slot in the cylinder release button also needed opening up a bit where there was a tiny amount of excess metal.
  • I also tested the bolt holes as I went along by screwing bolts into them, and I did end up re-tapping a few of them either to get a bit more depth or to ease the fit of the bolt.
All in all, it took me about 3 days of work to prep all the metal parts to the point where I felt they were ready to set aside for the final finish.

The non-metal parts

The plastic/resin parts are cast in a tough black resin so are almost good to go out of the box. As always with Dave’s products they are incredibly high-quality castings. In fact I had only three very minor flaws. There was a tiny air bubble void on one end of the cylinder and another, even smaller, one on the magazine. Unfluckily, the latter was right on one corner of the rectangular switch housing - a bit of a tricky detail to fix. But a tiny bit of black Milliput and some basic sculpting with a hobby knife did the trick on both. A tip when using Milliput to replace or fill very tiny areas like this, by the way, is to add a tiny dab of superglue before placing the soft Milliput. This fixes it firmly in place while you’re sculpting it as well as ensuring that the fix remains in place after it’s cured. The other slight casting flaw was atiny blob of surplus material inside one of the deep recesses at the front of the magazine housing; it was barely visible but easily fixed with a small grinding bit on my Dremel.

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I needed to give the inside of 2 of the chambers of the cylinder a couple of quick passes with a rounded file to get the supplied dummy rounds to fit, after which they slid in and out easily.

Other than that, nothing needed to be done to these parts other than a very light sanding on a couple of edges where they'd had the pouring excess neatly snipped off. Really pain-free castings!

In fact, I did wonder at first whether it was worth painting the black components since they were such good quality as they were. I thought maybe just a light going over with a scotchbrite pad and a polish where needed might actually be the only thing required for a perfect finish. But in the end, for durability and consistency, I’ve decided to paint them in the same way I did the same parts on my resin TipTop blaster with a combination of gloss and satin black. But that can wait until I do a first rough assembly of the prepped metal parts!

First assembly!

This is the fun part after all the prep work… the first time you see the blaster start to take shape in your hands and feel the weight of it. And it’s an absolute beast! :D

It all fit together incredibly well on first assembly. As I mentioned, I did re-tap some of the bolt holes to make screwing the parts together a bit easier. And as I found with the resin kit too there are a couple of places where I felt a slightly longer bolt was needed than the size stipulated in the instructions. In particular the outer grip definitely needs a longer bolt for the inner top position; I used a 20mm rather than the suggested 12mm. The top bolt on the left side cylinder cover also feels like it needs a slightly longer bolt too - I used a 16mm rather than a 12mm.

The only point at which I struggled a bit was in fitting the barrel as the front side bolt holes didn’t quite line up once the barrel was attached to the Bulldog frame. This was easily fixed, though, as the holes were so close to being right (literally a fraction of a millimetre)I re-tapped the holes in the barrel at a very slight angle and then using 6mm bolts rather than the suggested 8mm. The barrel is just as securely held, it looks exactly the same, and you’d never know the difference. Luckily the large bolt-hole in the bottom of the barrel for the front support pillar is perfectly placed.

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I’m really excited with the build so far. It looks and feels amazing. Next step is the painting of the plastic/resin parts, and then a new venture for me - bluing the metal components! I admit to being a bit nervous about this. It’s something I’ve never done before. I have done some experimenting on some spare metal pieces left over from previous projects (see below - top left is untreated, bottom left is a painted weaver knob from my resin blaster, and the weaver knob and post on the right are the finish I hope will work for this one). From those experiments I think that Aluminum Black for the barrel and ‘pillar’ and either Phillips Gun Blue paste or Gorgeous Glass Black Patina for the other parts will work well. I’m hoping that scouring back through the finish with a scotchbrite pad to different degrees will allow me to get the deeper bluing on the receiver and bolt and less darkening on the Bulldog parts. We shall see! Playing with small, sacrificial parts is one thing, but doing the same thing on the bigger, more critical, irreplaceable parts is going to be a bit of an adventure. Wish me luck! :eek:


I'll sign off for now with a couple of pictures of the assembled blaster in its current state with the grips and plastic parts put in place but not attached yet. The other blaster is my assembled and painted resin TipTop/Anders kit for comparison.

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I'm thrilled to bits with the kit, and I hope that when I come to do the final finish and final assembly I can do justice to Anders's brilliant files, and the absolute labour of love that Dave at TipTop has engaged in over the last couple of years to turn those files into such high-quality castings, and to bring the community this gorgeous kit. Thanks so much to both of them for letting me be one of the first people to play with such a wonderful creation. I hope I can be worthy of it!

More progress to follow as I embark on the painting and finishing stage!
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I have one of the pristine Tomen's. Love it, but I regret not having a blaster that looks weathered like it just came off the set (or perhaps even a bit more distressed). I was too nervous to disassemble the Tomen, strip it, blue it, etc. Now, I can keep the pristine blaster and build a beautifully weathered metal blaster from this kit. So happy!
Part 2a: Painting and bluing/darkening the metal parts (work-in-progress)

A quick progress report on the next stage of the TipTop metal blaster build. I've spent some time over the last few days doing some more experimenting with various treatments of the metal parts of the blaster to make the alloy and the aluminium they're made of resemble the metal parts of the original gun. I'm aiming for a finish that's not as weathered and worn as the original blaster is now (as seen in the Worldcon photos) but is also not pristine and factory-fresh. I want something that's obviously had a life and a lot of use, is showing its age but still hopefully looks well-maintained (like its owner! :D )

I'm not quite there yet, I don't think, but I'm getting close. I'd say the results so far are much better than I'd feared but not yet quite as good as I'd hoped. But it is my first time doing this so it's all good experience!


Note: Before the various treatments described below, all the parts were wet sanded and polished to a very clean surface, washed with Acetone at least twice to get rid of any oils and other residue, and then dried and handled only with paper shop towels while the treatment was applied to avoid getting impurities on the surface during the process.

Butt plate and inner bolt: As mentioned in my first post these are just wet-sanded to a smooth finish and then polished. No other treatment required. Ditto the cylinder bushing, since it's not going to be seen when the gun's assembled.

The barrel and front support pillar: These are aluminium, and I wanted them to look like weathered steel. The only off-the-shelf product that I'm aware of and that seemed to be easily available here in the UK that will darken aluminium is Birchwood Casey Aluminum Black. This required some playing with before I found a way of using it that gave me what I was after. Used straight from the bottle as per the instructions it almost immediately produces a very black matt surface. If you leave it too long and use too much at once it results in a rough, crusty, almost 'scaly', heavily oxidised appearance. Both these finishes are quite fragile and very easily removed with a scrape or a knock. Neither of them look like steel! The trick, I discovered, is to use the Aluminum Black in a very dilute form and submerge the parts rather than brushing it on. I half-filled a plastic container (a takeaway carton) with distilled water deep enough to cover the barrel and added 15ml of the Aluminum Black. Then I placed the barrel and pillar in the solution for about 30 seconds only, before removing it, washing them in tap water and a soft sponge. When dry, I used ultra-fine wire wool (0000) with the lightest of touches - barely any pressure at all - to get rid of some of the mottling and 'texture'. I tried to make the strokes all go the same way or more consistency. This takes off some of the finish and lightens the parts very slightly.

It took 3 of these treatments to end up with a colour and finish that I was happy with and I could set them aside to dry completely. Then I applied a thin coat of light machine oil with a paper towel. I'll leave them for a couple of days before a final polish. I think these two parts are pretty much done.

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Bulldog parts - frame, triggers, trigger guard, cylinder pivot arm, switches, weaver knob, binding post and inner grip: For these parts I ended up using 'Gorgeous Glass Black Patina'. This is a blackening solution for non-steel metals (used to blacken the lead around stained glass windows). I'd used this on the metal parts of my TipTop Hellboy Samaritan to age them. In this case, though, rather than making the parts black and then scouring back to the original metal of the raised surfaces with wire wool, I wanted a consistent aged look on all the metal parts.

The trick was to leave the solution on the parts for less time and build the darkening up slowly - a bit time-consuming but giving a much subtler effect. I used the solution neat and applied it with cotton buds (q-tips) on the smaller or more detailed parts and cotton wool balls for the larger areas to try and get fewer streaks in the finish. I also used a small stiff-bristled brush to get the solution into the engraved numbers and the grooves in the smaller parts.

For the larger flat areas, the key is to work quickly and apply the next 'stripe' before the previous one has had a chance to dry. The solution was applied, left on the part for about 30-45 seconds (you can see the colour developing so it's quite easy to judge by eye) and then washed off with water and a soft sponge. I used a soft scouring pad to gently wipe the finish to remove as many streaks as possible (there will be some). Again, after the part was dry I used the gentlest of touches with 0000 wire wool to further consolidate the finish.

The parts have had two treatments so far and I think are still looking a bit too light, so I shall probably give all those parts another couple of coats to try and bring them to the same tone as the barrel of the gun.


The inner grip was also given a thin coat of matt black spray paint on its flat surfaces, which is 'worn' back through with steel wool. This needs a bit more complexity adding, I think, with a mixture of sponged-on paint and sanding back.

The receiver and bolt lever and the Steyr tip: I felt these needed a heavier, darker 'bluing' to match the look of the original blaster, so I used the same technique as the Bulldog parts above but I left the solution on for a minute or so each time, and took less of the finish off between treatments. I did the bolt and the Steyr tip separately but assembled the main receiver and the receiver rear cap so that they could be treated together in order to get the same finish. With these parts it's crucial to try and avoid streaks as much as possible (it's impossible to avoid them completely) so I did the inner and small surfaces first and then did the larger outer surfaces separately using cotton wool balls to apply the solution in long single strokes running the full length of the parts.

I let the parts darken quite a bit before rinsing them and used the sponge and paper towels to remove the excess finish. Some feather-light wire-wool smoothing was used, but I was very careful to leave as much of the finish as possible. These parts got two full treatments.

Tone-wise, I think these parts are almost right, but they are still a bit 'mottled' for my taste and I'm reluctant to remove too much of the finish as I'm worried I'll lose the depth of colour. But I think once they've fully dried overnight I shall see what I can do with some 8000 grit sanding pads, paper towels and polishing compound. I also have to correct a slight error I made (you can see the 'banding' where I got the masking wrong on the first pass) and I think there's another layer or two to add using a different product (see below).


I've also painted up the black parts (satin black for the magazine and housing, gloss black for the cylinder covers and sighting rod) and given the cylinder itself a coat of gloss black ready for eventual metallic lacquer to try and match the final finish of the Bulldog parts.

Next steps: As I said, I think the metal parts are almost there now, but tomorrow or the next day I think I shall:

  • Give the Bulldog parts a couple more treatments with the GG Black Patina to darken them down to the same tonal value as the barrel.
  • Consolidate the finish on the receiver and bolt with wet-sanding and polishing before...
  • Give the receiver and bolt a pass or two with Birchwood Casey Perma Blue. I'm hoping this will deepen the tone, add a touch more blue to the colour and tie the finish together a bit more.

Once I'm happy with the colour and tone of all the parts, I shall also use a scotchbrite pad to add a bit more subtle wear and tear to all the parts. Basically, just work on small details to try and get the final finish as true to life as I can.

Thanks for reading so far! I'll follow up in a couple of days with another post with (hopefully) the final look of the components before assembly and electronics!

If anyone has any thoughts on where I'm up to so far, colours and appearance of the various parts, and especially suggestions or experience of similar processes from their own builds, I'd very much value and appreciate it!
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Part 2b: Continuing the painting and bluing

I'm calling the surface finishing of the parts done, I think. I'm actually pretty happy with the way that the parts have turned out, given my inexperience with some of the techniques I've been using. The receiver hasn't turned out quite as I'd hoped, but it looks fine to my eyes, and in keeping with the very-much-used and well-worn look I was going for with this blaster. I'm embracing the imperfections! Which, I should add, are entirely the result of my inadequacies rather than anything in the kit, which is still fantastic to work with!

I've started assembling the blaster and got to the point where I need to start the electronics, which I'll do tomorrow, so this seemed a good point for another update. Here's where I'm up to.


My first order of business was to do a bit more work on the metal parts. The Bulldog components were still a bit 'bright' to my eye, so they all got another round of Gorgeous Glass Black Patina, applied with cotton wool balls or cotton buds/q-tips, left for 30 seconds or so and then washed off under running water with a soft dish sponge. Then, as before, a quick pass with 0000 wire wool, barely touching the main areas and concentrating on the edges and details. This brought them to a colour and tone that matched the barrel which is exactly what I was after.

The receiver also needed a bit more work. As I'd half-expected, Perma Blue (which is designed for steel of course) had no effect at all on the alloy the parts are made of. From reading some posts from people building the old Sidkit blaster on PropSummit I'd hoped it might work, since they all mentioned using it at this same stage, but no luck. So I went back to the Black Patina and gave the receiver parts and the darker parts of the bolt two more treatments. This time I heated the parts slightly with a hairdryer on the highest setting before applying the solution neat with cotton wool balls in long single strokes. I left it for 30 seconds and then wiped over the parts with a dry blue shop towel while the solution was still wet to smooth it out even further. The residue was left for another 30 secs before the parts were washed and buffed with a microfibre cloth.

I did this twice. Again the receiver and the back cap were done together to try and get an exact match.

Once all the parts had dried, I applied light machine oil all over them with a lint-free blue shop towel, rubbed it into the surface, and left them overnight. The other metal parts were also given this oil-rub treatment too. Finally, the inner grip frame was weathered a bit more, and the worn paint on the bottom edges of the outer grip frame was replicated by sanding back through the black gloss paint to the metal and then polishing.

I'm happy with the Bulldog parts. Less so with the receiver, although I think it worked as well as could be expected and it's not too awful It's not the most smooth and consistent finish, and it's still a little less 'blue' than I'd planned. But it is a nice dark, worn look and it works in context I think... maybe as a well-used gun that's actually in need of a re-blue! :D

What I am VERY happy with is the match of the painted resin cylinder to the rest of the Bulldog parts! I gave the cylinder a gloss black basecoat when I painted the black parts. I sanded this back slightly with sanding pads and wire wool - not down to the grey primer but enough to give a mottled dull/shiny tone. Then I airbrushed AK Interactive 'gunmetal' over the whole thing. When it was fully cured I sponged on a light weathering of matt black acrylic, using the sponge to create natural wear patterns. This ended up as a perfect match for the real metal parts, as I hope the following assembly photos show.

The other small detail was to airbrush Alclad II 'polished brass' onto the small 'washer' on the left side of the magazine housing.

3a: Starting the assembly

First thing today, I wiped off any excess oil of the metal parts and polished them all with shop towels and microfibre cloths, before readying all the parts for starting the assembly!


I went through all the steps as per the provided assembly guide, which is very comprehensive and uses nicely done exploded diagrams and call-outs for all the components and the hardware needed to put them together in order.

First up is attaching the hammer and the triggers to the Bulldog frame. I dry-fitted the pins that secure the hammer and triggers first. These are deliberately overlong so need to be trimmed to an exact length. I inserted them so one end was flush and then used DyKem layout fluid to paint the excess. This was cut off using a rotary blade in my Dremel and the end filed flat and smooth. When inserting the pins be careful not to scratch the finish of the frame - I used shop towels between it and the pliers I used to push the pins home (I still got a couple of scratches but hey, it's natural wear and tear... right?).

It's a bit tricky to insert the triggers and their springs AND the pin. I found it made it a lot easier to use a dab of superglue to fix the end of each spring into the socket in the base of the frame. That way it won't 'sproing' across the room into another dimension when you line up the trigger. Fiddly, but not too bad, and the triggers have a really nice firm action.


Next up is the cylinder release switch, which is simply dropped in place and secured with the supplied M3 8mm slot-head screw. At this stage, I also tested the fit and functioning of the cylinder itself.

The inner grip comes next. The main spring and rod is inserted into the holes in the inner grip and then the whole grip is inserted into the frame and secured with two more pins. The top of the main spring rod needs to be located into a depression in the bottom of the hammer. The hammer has quite a nice spring action, although once the receiver is in place it becomes inaccessible and is there really just for show.

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Next comes attaching the trigger guard. There are two bolts for this a 12mm one at the back and a 20mm one that not only attaches the front of the trigger guard but also acts as the pivot around which the cylinder release arm rotates. So once the trigger guard was attached I loaded the cylinder and tested its function. It worked perfectly!

The outer grip attaches next with three bolts, one 12mm at the upper back and two 20mm at the front and bottom. Make sure the bottom one goes all the way into the countersunk hole so that the butt plate will sit flush at a later stage.

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Now the receiver goes on and the barrel is put in place. I found it was made a bit easier if the 8mm button head bolt that attaches the receiver at the back of the frame (behind the cylinder) is temporarily screwed into place at this stage, since it holds the receiver in place while the barrel is inserted and the two bolts that secure the receiver to the barrel at the front are tightened. This bolt will need to be removed and re-screwed once the right cylinder cover is attached.

The Steyr switch is also attached at this point, with another 8mm button head bolt, and the Steyr tip (the bit that fits in the front of the receiver) is also attached. This is secured with one of the M3 grub screws that screw into the top of the receiver and an M3 button head bolt. I elected to simply slide it into place at this stage as I wanted to make sure that I drilled the holes required in exactly the right places. This is best done once the bolt is in place and tested for fit and function. I shall add the grub screws and button head bolt at a later stage. The tip needs to be in place when the bolt is inserted to ensure the bolt is in the right position within the receiver when the back cap is attached.

The bolt is inserted and the back cap bolted to the rear end of it, tight enough to hold the cap securely but loosely enough to still allow the bolt to rotate. The bolt action can be tested at this stage. I added a bit of oil at this stage to lubricate all the moving parts, including the length of the bolt within the receiver. The 8mm constraining bolt is screwed into the appropriate hole to stop the backward travel of the bolt when open.

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The last bit of assembly before a bit of electronics work is needed is to attach the right-hand cylinder cover, weaver knob and binding post.

The cover attaches with the 8mm screw behind the cylinder mentioned earlier and a 12mm cap head screw at the front edge. Again, this screw will need to be unscrewed and screwd in again when the magazine housing is attached later, but it serves to keep the cylinder cover in place for now.

The weaver knob and binding post can either be screwed into their locations or glued if you're not planning on removing them ever. I elected to screw my weaver knob in to give me the option of maybe swapping it for a movie-accurate slot-head screw at some point, but I glued the binding post in place since that's going to remain in place for the forseeable future.

And that was today's build! Tomorrow I shall wire the green LEDs into the sighting rod and continue with the left-hand cylinder cover and the wiring and electronics for the magazine. I have an idea for how to wire up the LEDs using the supplied white wires while still allowing the magazine to be completely removable for battery swapping.

I hope this has been interesting. I'm really happy with how the blaster is coming together. Of course, before I stopped for the evening, I couldn't resist laying the grips in place to get an idea of the final look!

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Thanks for reading!
wow! you have done such a great job! amazing!
now I want to try one as well and I never had the time to finish my Tomen!
Looks great! I have a steel barrel and blueing it wasn’t the easiest yours looks good man. Be proud! I’ll be using your tips and tricks on mine.

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