TryChick
Well-Known Member
TryChick
Well-Known Member
Re: Iron Man Build
Hinges are working. Would still like to have them fabricated professionally though...they don't look too much like something Stark Industries would have produced...:lol
Finally got the eyes working so they light up when the faceplate closes. First I tried hot gluing washers with wiring attached along the top of the faceplate and did the same on the main helm in order to complete the circuit when the helmet closed, but couldn't get good enough connections--they would come on sporadically. So I resorted to the magnetic switch with a 1" operational gap (wanted to make sure I'd be able to complete the circuit easily). I mounted the switch on the jaw and the magnet on the lower end of the faceplate. Works flawlessly.
I mounted the switch and the battery in the chin because I didn't want to have the weight and the wiring mess from the battery and the switch on the faceplate. And, being the electronics noob I am (only started dabbling when I got into this project...) I couldn't figure out how to complete the circuit without running wiring along both of my front hinges...which is what I finally ended up doing. Left enough slack in the wiring so the hinges could operate properly and hot glued it all down.
Hinges are working. Would still like to have them fabricated professionally though...they don't look too much like something Stark Industries would have produced...:lol
Finally got the eyes working so they light up when the faceplate closes. First I tried hot gluing washers with wiring attached along the top of the faceplate and did the same on the main helm in order to complete the circuit when the helmet closed, but couldn't get good enough connections--they would come on sporadically. So I resorted to the magnetic switch with a 1" operational gap (wanted to make sure I'd be able to complete the circuit easily). I mounted the switch on the jaw and the magnet on the lower end of the faceplate. Works flawlessly.
I mounted the switch and the battery in the chin because I didn't want to have the weight and the wiring mess from the battery and the switch on the faceplate. And, being the electronics noob I am (only started dabbling when I got into this project...) I couldn't figure out how to complete the circuit without running wiring along both of my front hinges...which is what I finally ended up doing. Left enough slack in the wiring so the hinges could operate properly and hot glued it all down.
PurdueMadLou
Member
Re: Iron Man Build
Nice!!
Nice!!
TryChick
Well-Known Member
Re: Iron Man Build
The hinges work. Been trying to figure out the servos now. Never programmed this kind of stuff. The last time I programmed was in a college BASIC class in the mid 80s...
It's frustrating since I'm not a programmer and I'm scratching my head trying to figure out the code. I got one servo working correctly to open and close the faceplate--and it has enough torque to do the job solo, but I don't want to mess up the hinges by using just one servo. The other servo was moving 180 degrees out of sync, so I pulled out the servo box (I am using a TMNT band aid box :lol I cut holes in and mounted the servos to so they'd be mounted parallel to each other) to work with it more easily and see what's going on with the servo arms.
They both now move in the correct direction and have good stop points, but one moves faster than the other one. Need to figure out what's wrong with my code in order to get the servos working at the same speed and then program to open/close with the push of a button. Unfortunately I'm not finding much in the way of help with code on the forum. I attached a video of my wonky servo action.
I'm using an Arduino Mega 2560 with my MacPro and am having problems uploading code as I modify it as well. Guess others have had issues with this particular board and upload issues too, but can't figure out how to fix that either!
The hinges work. Been trying to figure out the servos now. Never programmed this kind of stuff. The last time I programmed was in a college BASIC class in the mid 80s...
It's frustrating since I'm not a programmer and I'm scratching my head trying to figure out the code. I got one servo working correctly to open and close the faceplate--and it has enough torque to do the job solo, but I don't want to mess up the hinges by using just one servo. The other servo was moving 180 degrees out of sync, so I pulled out the servo box (I am using a TMNT band aid box :lol I cut holes in and mounted the servos to so they'd be mounted parallel to each other) to work with it more easily and see what's going on with the servo arms.
They both now move in the correct direction and have good stop points, but one moves faster than the other one. Need to figure out what's wrong with my code in order to get the servos working at the same speed and then program to open/close with the push of a button. Unfortunately I'm not finding much in the way of help with code on the forum. I attached a video of my wonky servo action.
I'm using an Arduino Mega 2560 with my MacPro and am having problems uploading code as I modify it as well. Guess others have had issues with this particular board and upload issues too, but can't figure out how to fix that either!
TryChick
Well-Known Member
Re: Iron Man Build
It is front heavy, but my servos will be mounted in the back so it should balance out...
It is front heavy, but my servos will be mounted in the back so it should balance out...
TryChick
Well-Known Member
Re: Iron Man Build
I'm doing the happy dance. I had talked to my dad about my servo problem and he asked if I could swap the positive and negative leads. I said no, but then got to thinking about it. I googled getting servos to go in opposite directions, and found a video that showed how to take your servo apart and rewire it to rotate in the opposite direction. I took mine apart and rewired the positive and negative leads and presto--change-o!
It worked like a charm. Now I need to wire a button on this baby and go from there...
(Here is the link if anyone is interested)
How to REVERSE a Servo. - YouTube!
I uploaded a video of my hinges in action!
Woo Hoo!!!
I'm doing the happy dance. I had talked to my dad about my servo problem and he asked if I could swap the positive and negative leads. I said no, but then got to thinking about it. I googled getting servos to go in opposite directions, and found a video that showed how to take your servo apart and rewire it to rotate in the opposite direction. I took mine apart and rewired the positive and negative leads and presto--change-o!
It worked like a charm. Now I need to wire a button on this baby and go from there... (Here is the link if anyone is interested)
How to REVERSE a Servo. - YouTube!
I uploaded a video of my hinges in action!
Woo Hoo!!!
jeffreygullett
Well-Known Member
Re: Iron Man Build
So much great info here. Thanks for sharing all your work. Especially on the hinge system.
So much great info here. Thanks for sharing all your work. Especially on the hinge system.
TryChick
Well-Known Member
Re: Iron Man Build
Glad to share. Still messing with code to get the action right.
Glad to share. Still messing with code to get the action right.
J Scorn
Sr Member
Re: Iron Man Build
great minds think alike!!!
HOW TO...iron man face plate - YouTube
wicked build btw.
great minds think alike!!!
HOW TO...iron man face plate - YouTube
wicked build btw.
TryChick
Well-Known Member
Re: Iron Man Build
Yeah, the servos would turning in opposite directions, so easiest way to fix this is open up the servo and swap the wiring. Easy to do after watching this video. Then use a Y connector
How to REVERSE a Servo. - YouTube
Yeah, the servos would turning in opposite directions, so easiest way to fix this is open up the servo and swap the wiring. Easy to do after watching this video. Then use a Y connector
How to REVERSE a Servo. - YouTube
closet batfan
Well-Known Member
Re: Iron Man Build
This is a fantastic build and you've done it super fast wow! I'm also building a MkVI and it's taken me two years and I'm still on the bondo phase.
This is a fantastic build and you've done it super fast wow! I'm also building a MkVI and it's taken me two years and I'm still on the bondo phase.
TryChick
Well-Known Member
Re: Iron Man Build
Thanks. Am still struggling with coding for servos, etc. And decided I needed to move my servos. I wasn't comfortable with the push/pull rods running along side my face, so I repositioned them on the crown. Had to rework the hinges some and I spent most of the day making a metal mount. Not pretty, but it seems to do the trick. All I've really worked on is the helmet...
Thanks. Am still struggling with coding for servos, etc. And decided I needed to move my servos. I wasn't comfortable with the push/pull rods running along side my face, so I repositioned them on the crown. Had to rework the hinges some and I spent most of the day making a metal mount. Not pretty, but it seems to do the trick. All I've really worked on is the helmet...
TryChick
Well-Known Member
Re: Iron Man Build
I discovered my metal mount for the servos was not stiff enough, as I could see the servos flex the metal as they rotated. So I went looking for something light, but stronger/stiffer that I could work with with my limited tools. I purchased a strip of 1/8" aluminum and attempted to create a one-piece servo mount with both of ends bent at 90 degrees with slots cut out to hold the servos on with screws. Unfortunately, the aluminum cracked when I bent it that much, so I returned to my favorite hardware store to look for an alternate solution and picked up some thinner strips of aluminum already extruded with 90 degree angles. I used the thicker aluminum for the base and attached two pieces of the thinner stuff on the ends to actually hold the servos in place. It worked great. Then I drilled a couple of holes in the thicker aluminum for mounting. I drilled some holes in a scrap of wood for Chicago screws and hot glued the wood to the top of the helmet. (What a PITA to get that stuff off. I had to reposition the mount 2-3 times and had a heck of a time getting the hot glue removed!)
I also used a few spacers while the hot glue cooled so there was enough pressure on the wood to secure it firmly. I could probably take the spacers out, but left them in. You can see them in one of the closeups--black plastic. Originally I had 3 layers of poplar attached to the mount so it would stay flat and stable, but it added weight I didn't want, which is why I decided to use the binding posts and spacers. The sides of the mount actually rest on the fiberglass bumps that hang down from the two grooves on the top of the helmet.
I also drilled extra holes to allow for mounting other stuff like batteries, or my Arduino board.
Additionally, I reworked the hinges a bit. Funny, they are looking more like some of the other folks hinges as I tweak/modify so they work more smoothly .
After trying plastic and some thinner metals and not being happy with what I had made, I decided to make some from the leftover 1/8" aluminum strip. They are light, stiff, and all one piece so I don't have to worry about anything breaking. Since the metal is thicker than what I was using, the faceplate movement is much smoother. The aluminum is fairly easy to cut and really easy to drill through, but involved some elbow grease using a file and sandpaper to smooth the rough edges...
These servos are also farther apart than they were when they were originally mounted on the back of the helmet. I placed them as far apart as possible, leaving just enough room so the servo arms don't rub against the sides of the helmet when they move...Gives me more clearance.
I also redid the wiring on the eyes so the battery is now on the faceplate and I no longer have wires running down my hinges. Definitely cleaner inside the helmet and I don't have to worry about having to disconnect the wiring if I need to remove the faceplate/hinges... You can see the large circular rare earth magnet hot-glued between the eyes and the 9v battery connector in the 6th picture. The servos don't have any trouble moving the faceplate with the extra weight from the battery, and the battery is not in my way.
Now, back to code...to figure out how to get a button working.
Had to take a short Iron Man hiatus to make some Harry Potter wands for my two teenagers and my nieces and nephew...:lol
I discovered my metal mount for the servos was not stiff enough, as I could see the servos flex the metal as they rotated. So I went looking for something light, but stronger/stiffer that I could work with with my limited tools. I purchased a strip of 1/8" aluminum and attempted to create a one-piece servo mount with both of ends bent at 90 degrees with slots cut out to hold the servos on with screws. Unfortunately, the aluminum cracked when I bent it that much, so I returned to my favorite hardware store to look for an alternate solution and picked up some thinner strips of aluminum already extruded with 90 degree angles. I used the thicker aluminum for the base and attached two pieces of the thinner stuff on the ends to actually hold the servos in place. It worked great. Then I drilled a couple of holes in the thicker aluminum for mounting. I drilled some holes in a scrap of wood for Chicago screws and hot glued the wood to the top of the helmet. (What a PITA to get that stuff off. I had to reposition the mount 2-3 times and had a heck of a time getting the hot glue removed!)
I also used a few spacers while the hot glue cooled so there was enough pressure on the wood to secure it firmly. I could probably take the spacers out, but left them in. You can see them in one of the closeups--black plastic. Originally I had 3 layers of poplar attached to the mount so it would stay flat and stable, but it added weight I didn't want, which is why I decided to use the binding posts and spacers. The sides of the mount actually rest on the fiberglass bumps that hang down from the two grooves on the top of the helmet.
I also drilled extra holes to allow for mounting other stuff like batteries, or my Arduino board.
Additionally, I reworked the hinges a bit. Funny, they are looking more like some of the other folks hinges as I tweak/modify so they work more smoothly .
After trying plastic and some thinner metals and not being happy with what I had made, I decided to make some from the leftover 1/8" aluminum strip. They are light, stiff, and all one piece so I don't have to worry about anything breaking. Since the metal is thicker than what I was using, the faceplate movement is much smoother. The aluminum is fairly easy to cut and really easy to drill through, but involved some elbow grease using a file and sandpaper to smooth the rough edges...
These servos are also farther apart than they were when they were originally mounted on the back of the helmet. I placed them as far apart as possible, leaving just enough room so the servo arms don't rub against the sides of the helmet when they move...Gives me more clearance.
I also redid the wiring on the eyes so the battery is now on the faceplate and I no longer have wires running down my hinges. Definitely cleaner inside the helmet and I don't have to worry about having to disconnect the wiring if I need to remove the faceplate/hinges... You can see the large circular rare earth magnet hot-glued between the eyes and the 9v battery connector in the 6th picture. The servos don't have any trouble moving the faceplate with the extra weight from the battery, and the battery is not in my way.
Now, back to code...to figure out how to get a button working.
Had to take a short Iron Man hiatus to make some Harry Potter wands for my two teenagers and my nieces and nephew...:lol
closet batfan
Well-Known Member
Re: Iron Man Build
That helmet looks full, can you still get you're head inside, there doesn't seem to be enough space?
That helmet looks full, can you still get you're head inside, there doesn't seem to be enough space?
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