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Limited Run === Luke's Lightsaber : THE LAST JEDI === NOW SHIPPING!!!
- Thread starter Romans Empire
- Start date
Filandrius
Sr Member
I know it can be easily replaced (just like the card) That's my whole point: not to argue, but to point out the stuff that can be corrected to make an already great replica really spot-on. Only trying to be constructive, even if I don't sound like it.
For me, there was some real attractive features that made me pre-order it before the activation box was revealed; this is why I'm nitpicking it because it would be easy to "fix". Don't know how exactly, but I'd love to "correct" it without having to buy a whole other saber.
Ridire Firean
Sr Member
You rang?
And yes Filandrius , you are mistaken, as I did not measure the sides of the triangles but rather the HEIGHT of them from that printout.Just to make certain you understand, the measurement I took was from a 1:1 printout of the ROTJ Luke HERO (I have the photo you have in post #373), NOT the TFA Behind the Scenes Luke/TLJ In-Theater Luke photos of the TFA/TLJ Luke. The measurement was taken from the center of one of the sides, to the corner point of the triangle that is perpindicular to that side's midpoint. Like h is represented in this drawing...
The TFA/TLJ Triangles are considerably larger. I think they look out of place on a Lightsaber and are kinda goofy looking even for a toy version.
I was simply chatting up knullzero to see if the triangles that came with this kit, or the LEDs he chose to use for his V4 would work in MY Obi-Wan Grafluki Lightsaber where I am trying to replicate the Triangle LEDs from the ROTJ LUKE HERO in a TCSS Control Box.
AND you guys have to remember that Roman has stated from the very beginning that these V4's, in there entirety, were HIS take on the TFA/TLJ Lightsaber and that it was only based on the photo from the Target Exclusive Behind the Scenes footage. This run was well underway before the movie even came out and was not intended to be 100% accurate.
So, I would advise to all of you, that if you want to make your Roman's V4 be more accurate to the most up to date TFA/TLJ images, that you...
1. ....not get Roman all bent out of shape about the accuracy of his triangles by saying how inaccurate they are. Especially since he made did them the way he did in order to "make this idealize to the Hero"(post#30) where measurements were uncertain, he never said they'd be 100% accurate, neither to the ROTJ Luke HERO nor the TFA/TLJ Luke.
2. ....please not create and spread misinformation about my measurements for the ROTJ LUKE HERO Triangles in post #354 (which are not 100% accurate to the actual prop, and again, they are just what I measured them to be from a 1:1 printout of the ROTJ LUKE HERO based on the Control Box being measured at 2" to emulate the Length of a GRAFLEX CLAMP). If you would like the measurement I came up with for the distance between the triangles I will provide that to you via PM as I don't want to create any further disruptions for Roman, nor confusion for either ROTJ Luke HERO, TFA Luke, nor TLJ Luke Triangle measurements.
3. ....start making little triangles out of red and green Sculpey in different sizes and sticking them onto your V4 control box so that you can guestimate the size of the actual TFA/TLJ Luke Triangles. Then take photos of your V4 from the angles and distances seen in the TFA Behind the Scenes photos and TLJ photos to see which size triangles you made best emulates the Triangles found in those photos. You can then bake the triangles you made out of Sculpey and sand them until they look like what you see in those photos as well, or idealize them to the shape that you find most appealing to you and glue them into place. If you want to get all fancy and light them, you may need to hollow them out first before gluing them in place or recreate them with colored plastic and simply backlight them with 3mm LEDs or some other light source.
4. ....decide you don't want it to be TFA/TLJ accurate at all and idealize your own triangles. Take notes on how well knullzero did with my file suggestion in his post #349 on how to shape the KR Sabers LEDs to fit within either the Roman's V4 Triangle Plate, or one of your very own manufacture!
O.K., man that takes forever to type all this out. Where'd the afternoon go? Time for this Jedi to get some lunch!
Good Luck to you all in finishing off your V4's... however you choose to do so!
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Do you have a pcb printer?
jenkinskiefer
New Member
After a few days with the hilt and getting it weathered I think the only thing that I would ask Roman to change is the height of the control box, just to have it be a little little bit shorter and from my mind it'd be perfect! But as it stands, I think this is spot on considered its based on a low quality photo
Filandrius
Sr Member
Well said, Ridire Firean. I stand corrected.
Ridire Firean
Sr Member
That's SO COOL! You seriously need to start a build thread over in here....
Star Wars Costumes and Props
Are you just going to L-bend the LEDs up off your board and stuff them in the triangular holes? Don't forget to heat shrink some tubing over your leads if you do. Of course if you're making your own PCB's you certainly know to take these precautions I'm sure. But it's good instruction for those following along with your build. Ya just never know who might go poking around in there with their Jedi Lightsaber Tool and give themselves a little FORCE LIGHTNING, or worse yet, short out your sound board somehow.
I'm really looking forward to seeing how you wire this bad boy up!
knullzero
Active Member
That's SO COOL! You seriously need to start a build thread over in here....
Star Wars Costumes and Props
Are you just going to L-bend the LEDs up off your board and stuff them in the triangular holes? Don't forget to heat shrink some tubing over your leads if you do. Of course if you're making your own PCB's you certainly know to take these precautions I'm sure. But it's good instruction for those following along with your build. Ya just never know who might go poking around in there with their Jedi Lightsaber Tool and give themselves a little FORCE LIGHTNING, or worse yet, short out your sound board somehow.
I'm really looking forward to seeing how you wire this bad boy up!
No PCB printer unfortunately... This is being made with a cheap home printer, some transfer paper, pre-sensitized PCB, developer fluid, etching fluid, tinning fluid, coating fluid, and a steady hand holding a Dremel. So a lot of steps and parts here just to make life easier with the control box. And holes will still have to be drilled on the copper lid for the switch stems and the card needs to be shaved down.
For the LEDs, I'll be doing the L-bend and will be using heat shrink. The activation switch is right between the LEDs so I want to make sure there is no crossed connections and no force lightning. :lol Also I'll be coating the board to seal up the traces. Space in this box is limited. I might even have to replace the stock screws that attach the box to the hilt with lower profile pocket screws. I hope not but we'll see... I'll look into that since I am waiting for some developer fluid to get here since I couldn't find it yesterday and it won't be here until Saturday at the earliest.
I suppose I can start a build thread as well. Thanks everyone for the encouragement and advice!
That seems like a lot of work. Wouldn't it be easier to just mock it up in eagle and have a company like seeed print it for you? You'd also get multiples that you could sell to others to help cover the cost. Probably $30-35 for 10 copies of something that small including shipping, and you'd get it within about 2 weeks.
knullzero
Active Member
Yeah as I was typing out everything I did realize there was a lot of work to the whole process... Which is part of the fun isn't it?
So I have already been asked to sell a board on Facebook so I suppose I could do it this way after I finish my prototype. And to take it one step further I am waiting for my Form 2 SLA printer to arrive so I can print high quality resin triangles that I could include with the board so that any LEDs could be used. Now that I think of it the LEDs could be soldered onto the board so that the PCB can lift in and out since it will all be flush with the inner walls. So maybe...
Ridire Firean
Sr Member
Hey CJ2319 ! Is this the program and company you were talking about for making and printing PCBs ?....
https://www.autodesk.com/products/eagle/overview
https://www.seeedstudio.com/
https://www.autodesk.com/products/eagle/overview
https://www.seeedstudio.com/
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Yeah. I've used them a number of times for my time circuits and other projects. Even had some clamp cards made.
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knullzero
Active Member
Taking the advice given by @CJ2319 and looking at getting this produced externally... PCB design is pretty much done although I still need to do a fit test and probably make a few adjustments.
I think this will turn out pretty well. I guess I should hurry up and get to 50 posts so I can post an interest thread.
I think this will turn out pretty well. I guess I should hurry up and get to 50 posts so I can post an interest thread.
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Can’t get enough pics of this! Welcome to the club!
jenkinskiefer
New Member
I cut mine with a dremmel (not easy lol) then pulled it apart with two sets of pliers then hammered it closed again once it was in place. Sadly it left some nicks on it but figured hey it’s just battle damage
The pommel cubes on the Balance are not as wide as the cubes on the MK1 (not to mention the tr-ring is bigger than the d-ring). You should be able to install it without cutting any sections out. Just open it up and install.
I’m going to try more muscle, I tried opening it today but thought the tri ring was 1 piece and that line is a cutting line. I’m not cutting anything until I did more home work lol
I’m going to attempting opening it using a little more muscle this time around
Thanks for the heads up roman!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I’m going to attempting opening it using a little more muscle this time around
Thanks for the heads up roman!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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