Let's Talk All Things 3d for prop creation, Scan, Design, Sculpt (real and digital), Print and Finish

Copying in from another thread:

greenmachines said:

What is the spot putty? and yes, will be copying your comment into several 3d print convos

mattycsi said:

A standard spot putty, bondo/3m, any of those. Mix a blob in a glass jar with a lid with a few drips of acetone and shake up until it disolves. Doesnt take much acetone, so go careful when experimenting.
Then brush on, I do 2 coats. You won't need drying time between coats. Give it about 20 -30 mins to dry then buff smooth with 320 or 400g. Sands really easy, like, no effort.

I'm building a proton pack for cosplay, was perusing this vid, when the guy drops this technique, I ran, didn't walk, into my workshop!
About 5:20 is the bit you
need.
 
Last edited:
Copying in from another thread:

greenmachines said:

What is the spot putty? and yes, will be copying your comment into several 3d print convos

mattycsi said:

A standard spot putty, bondo/3m, any of those. Mix a blob in a glass jar with a lid with a few drips of acetone and shake up until it disolves. Doesnt take much acetone, so go careful when experimenting.
Then brush on, I do 2 coats. You won't need drying time between coats. Give it about 20 -30 mins to dry then buff smooth with 320 or 400g. Sands really easy, like, no effort.

I'm building a proton pack for cosplay, was perusing this vid, when the guy drops this technique, I ran, didn't walk, into my workshop!
About 5:20 is the bit you
need.
Make sure its not the waterbased putty/filler as it wont mix with Acetone.
 
So, this might seem a tangent again but this idea that acetone will work here, somehow reminded me of finding out that pla is plant based plastic.....AND..... it has a very short lifespan. Has anyone had experience, first hand, with pla props decaying? Being therpf I think this might be a very VERY important topic. What lifespan is really achievable or maybe this pla warning is overblown and we have decades? I speak from newb view, so, anyone have input, a work around, a better substance, or even just a horror story?
 
Make sure its not the waterbased putty/filler as it wont mix with Acetone.
I am just super stoked there might be an additive answer to smoothing instead of only negative (sanding etc.) besides the filler paint version. I still haven't purchased the filler primer so I really should do that before going any further. If it works it works. Cart before the horse is my go-to plan most days and I punish myself for leaping ahead but this acetone mix sounds really straightforward. Especially if I can see the results fast enough to know to add another coat or stop and high grit sand.
 
I am just super stoked there might be an additive answer to smoothing instead of only negative (sanding etc.) besides the filler paint version. I still haven't purchased the filler primer so I really should do that before going any further. If it works it works. Cart before the horse is my go-to plan most days and I punish myself for leaping ahead but this acetone mix sounds really straightforward. Especially if I can see the results fast enough to know to add another coat or stop and high grit sand.
Its Amazingly simply to use you should be fine.
Being otherside of the pond some materials can differ and ours are pretty much all waterbased but still work but not with the Acetone. I just did another wash last night on my Xwing helmet and now it just needs wet n dry sandpaper but I honestly cant see any layer lines then again it was pretty smooth to start with.
The only big difference I can see is the Acetone makes the layers dry quicker I dont think there is any chemical bond but I could be wrong. The filler I used this morning has set like cement.
 
Its Amazingly simply to use you should be fine.
Being otherside of the pond some materials can differ and ours are pretty much all waterbased but still work but not with the Acetone. I just did another wash last night on my Xwing helmet and now it just needs wet n dry sandpaper but I honestly cant see any layer lines then again it was pretty smooth to start with.
The only big difference I can see is the Acetone makes the layers dry quicker I dont think there is any chemical bond but I could be wrong. The filler I used this morning has set like cement.
My goal of smooth and realistic has yet to come into my skillset so more practice is in my future.
 
My goal of smooth and realistic has yet to come into my skillset so more practice is in my future.
I shyed away from and still have to finish so many builds from a Martian War Machine to a Boba Fett Jetpack but the Xwing helmet has so far but nothing but a joy with this filler method.
I think so far ive spent maybe two hours max on it and sure helps being large surfaces to work on.
Its getting warm here by the beach so I might do a bit more later..
 
I shyed away from and still have to finish so many builds from a Martian War Machine to a Boba Fett Jetpack but the Xwing helmet has so far but nothing but a joy with this filler method.
I think so far ive spent maybe two hours max on it and sure helps being large surfaces to work on.
Its getting warm here by the beach so I might do a bit more later..
That last sentence.... either A) the sanding is being done Robinson Crusoe style and the sun has risen high enough to peak into our shaded grotto or B) laying on the beach has become intolerable due to the heat and we must now get in the water but later, after we dry, maybe some sanding.
 
Just a couple more observations on TPU filament. Since it is flexible and elastic it does not unroll as easily or as smoothly as firmer filaments. It is also hydroscopic so humidity control is important or it feels "sticky". I do not have a ball-bearing filament reel support. So the friction of the TPU reel seems to be too much for my extruder motor to always overcome the flexible, elastic, sticky filament. The filament stretches then springs out like a rubber band when the reel finally turns. In this condition, if the filament does not move enough it seems to "burn" turning brown and hard as it is deposited. A ball-bearing reel support is probably my answer, I have just never found the need for one before
^^
That! You're right to say that some materials have a tendency to stick because of the humidity level in your working area. Using a de-humidifier will resolve the problem real fast...but it has to stay on for long lengths of time, especially in certain climes the machine has to work 24/7 to be effective as a "dryer" for your TPU. Then, you'll have to make sure to empty the drawer from the water accumulating in the machine; if not, it'll automatically shuts-off and the humidity level will rise once more.:(
 
That last sentence.... either A) the sanding is being done Robinson Crusoe style and the sun has risen high enough to peak into our shaded grotto or B) laying on the beach has become intolerable due to the heat and we must now get in the water but later, after we dry, maybe some sanding.
Oh definitely "A" Shorts, Flipflops no straw hat though..

I love this view but always hear in my head
a certain iconic theme tune in my head..

1000126249.jpg
 
^^
That! You're right to say that some materials have a tendency to stick because of the humidity level in your working area. Using a de-humidifier will resolve the problem real fast...but it has to stay on for long lengths of time, especially in certain climes the machine has to work 24/7 to be effective as a "dryer" for your TPU. Then, you'll have to make sure to empty the drawer from the water accumulating in the machine; if not, it'll automatically shuts-off and the humidity level will rise once more.:(
I really need to try out more materials than just reliable PLA but I havent found the need to just yet..
 
Well, I thought I posted this but don't see it now. The plastics industry is still reeling from the shipping disruptions from 2021 so my interior car parts don't exist. The chevy dealership wouldn't even put me on a backorder. They said there is no point. So, I went to the 3d spaces and found a printable replacement for free. This 3d printing is becoming more and more like owning my own Star Trek replicator.

Screenshot_20250805-174113_Samsung Internet.jpg
 
Well, I thought I posted this but don't see it now. The plastics industry is still reeling from the shipping disruptions from 2021 so my interior car parts don't exist. The chevy dealership wouldn't even put me on a backorder. They said there is no point. So, I went to the 3d spaces and found a printable replacement for free. This 3d printing is becoming more and more like owning my own Star Trek replicator.

View attachment 1957854
Prolly last longer too..
I used to buy Rabbit/golf window clips like there was no tomorrow.
 
Finally found a good representation of cosplay weapons rules and rules on prop items brought to a convention. Specifically in reference to our discussion about 3d printed items and their use at convention.

Weapons policy, bladed weapons policy, gun policy, weapons rules, bladed weapons rules, gun rules, knife policy, knife rules (for the search engine):

Weapons Policy

This revision to the Weapons Policy for the FanX Salt Lake Comic Convention is in response to your continued support and contribution to making this the best show ever.

No functional weapons are allowed at the FanX Salt Lake Comic Convention. Simulated or costume weapons are allowed as a part of your costume, subject to prior approval by security and compliance with the following guidelines:

ALL costume weapons must be inspected at the Weapons Check area. Security will thoroughly inspect and mark weapons to ensure they are safe and inoperable.All costume weapons must conform to state and federal law.All weapons must be easily distinguishable from real weapons and constructed from safe, lightweight material. Approved materials for weapons are wood, plastic, foam, rubber, cardboard, paper, and thermoplastics (worbla, Sintra, etc.). Metal fashionings may accent the cosplay items but must not be used as the primary construction material.After each weapon has been checked, it will be tagged by security. Security will escort you to the Weapons Check area for inspection if weapons or props need to be properly tagged. Once your weapon(s) have been inspected, do not remove the tag for any reason.No ‘Live Steel’ Weapons are allowed on the show floor. ‘Live Steel’ refers to any bladed article, sharp or otherwise. For example, no swords, knives (of any kind), “Wolverine” claws, “Freddy Kruger” finger gloves, or other similar items are needed.All prop firearms must be incapable of firing projectiles and have an orange cap on the barrel. Projectiles or any ammunition are forbidden. BB guns, paintball guns, dart guns, blowguns, and water guns and their accompanying ammunition will NOT be permitted. Airsoft guns must be rendered completely inoperable before entering the event. Nerf guns are allowed, but ammunition of any kind (foam or otherwise) is prohibited. Nerf guns must pass a weapons check and will have triggers zip-tied to prevent guns from firing.Real firearms, regardless of any degree of disassembling, are forbidden.Small, lightweight metal objects like Sonic Screwdrivers, Lightsaber handles, umbrellas, Captain America shields, and wooden wands, a.k.a. “Harry Potter wands,” are allowed but must not be used as functional weapons. These items will all be subject to a weapons check.Shields will be permitted regardless of construction material.Arrows and bolts for bows and crossbows must be fashioned out of approved materials (not metal), and the tips for these items must not be metal or sharpened.Costume swords/daggers made from approved materials are allowed but may not have sharp edges. Wooden swords are allowed but must be tied to your costume so they cannot be drawn or unsheathed. Security will zip-tie swords to their sheaths to ensure they cannot be drawn. If you wish to draw your sword to pose for a picture, it must be made of approved materials. Metal blades are not allowed, whether they are sheathed or not.No wooden or aluminum/metal bats are permitted. This includes baseball bats, cricket bats, clubs, paddles, golf clubs, and similar objects. Bats made from approved materials are allowed.Saws, brass knuckles, nun-chucks, or other weapons may not be crafted from metal. These items must be used in a display function and not for engagement.Staffs, staves, Escrima Sticks, bo-staffs, canes, or other weapons must be constructed from the approved list, not metal.Bullwhips, lassos, ropes, and similar items must be coiled and secured to the Cosplayer.Incendiary, spark-creating, or other flammable weapons are PROHIBITED. Likewise, any items classified as an ECD (taser, stun guns, etc) are PROHIBITED.Metal Barbed-wire will not be permitted.Please don't show your weapons or props threatening or menacingly. (For instance, posing for a picture is okay, but cosplayers should not brandish weapons while walking the event floor.)Please keep prop weapons in convention areas. If you leave the premises or go out into public for any reason, please put away any prop weaponry immediately.All prop/costume weapons purchased at the convention must be approved by the FanX Salt Lake Comic Convention Safety Team for carrying during the convention. These items must also adhere to the weapons policy.Bags and backpacks are allowed but are subject to a bag check at the discretion of Salt Lake Comic Con staff and security.

If you want to avoid having your costume weapons inspected and tagged or are unwilling to comply with these policies, please leave them at home. Failure to willingly comply with FanX Salt Lake Comic Convention’s official cosplay rules and weapons policy may result in ejection from the convention (without a refund) and potential legal action, if necessary. ***All rules and regulations are subject to change. ***

FanX Salt Lake Comic Convention reserves the right to inspect all costumes and weapons individually to ensure that the event remains completely safe and family-friendly. Those who violate these rules assume all responsibility in the event of injury.

PROPS/WEAPONS THAT, UPON INSPECTION, DO NOT COMPLY WITH THE ABOVE STANDARDS MUST IMMEDIATELY BE REMOVED FROM SALT PALACE PROPERTY OR THROWN AWAY.

IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS ABOUT YOUR UNIQUE COSPLAY OR WEAPONS IDEA, PLEASE CONTACT US HERE

www.fanxsaltlake.com
 
Finally found a good representation of cosplay weapons rules and rules on prop items brought to a convention. Specifically in reference to our discussion about 3d printed items and their use at convention.

Weapons policy, bladed weapons policy, gun policy, weapons rules, bladed weapons rules, gun rules, knife policy, knife rules (for the search engine):

Weapons Policy

This revision to the Weapons Policy for the FanX Salt Lake Comic Convention is in response to your continued support and contribution to making this the best show ever.

No functional weapons are allowed at the FanX Salt Lake Comic Convention. Simulated or costume weapons are allowed as a part of your costume, subject to prior approval by security and compliance with the following guidelines:

ALL costume weapons must be inspected at the Weapons Check area. Security will thoroughly inspect and mark weapons to ensure they are safe and inoperable.All costume weapons must conform to state and federal law.All weapons must be easily distinguishable from real weapons and constructed from safe, lightweight material. Approved materials for weapons are wood, plastic, foam, rubber, cardboard, paper, and thermoplastics (worbla, Sintra, etc.). Metal fashionings may accent the cosplay items but must not be used as the primary construction material.After each weapon has been checked, it will be tagged by security. Security will escort you to the Weapons Check area for inspection if weapons or props need to be properly tagged. Once your weapon(s) have been inspected, do not remove the tag for any reason.No ‘Live Steel’ Weapons are allowed on the show floor. ‘Live Steel’ refers to any bladed article, sharp or otherwise. For example, no swords, knives (of any kind), “Wolverine” claws, “Freddy Kruger” finger gloves, or other similar items are needed.All prop firearms must be incapable of firing projectiles and have an orange cap on the barrel. Projectiles or any ammunition are forbidden. BB guns, paintball guns, dart guns, blowguns, and water guns and their accompanying ammunition will NOT be permitted. Airsoft guns must be rendered completely inoperable before entering the event. Nerf guns are allowed, but ammunition of any kind (foam or otherwise) is prohibited. Nerf guns must pass a weapons check and will have triggers zip-tied to prevent guns from firing.Real firearms, regardless of any degree of disassembling, are forbidden.Small, lightweight metal objects like Sonic Screwdrivers, Lightsaber handles, umbrellas, Captain America shields, and wooden wands, a.k.a. “Harry Potter wands,” are allowed but must not be used as functional weapons. These items will all be subject to a weapons check.Shields will be permitted regardless of construction material.Arrows and bolts for bows and crossbows must be fashioned out of approved materials (not metal), and the tips for these items must not be metal or sharpened.Costume swords/daggers made from approved materials are allowed but may not have sharp edges. Wooden swords are allowed but must be tied to your costume so they cannot be drawn or unsheathed. Security will zip-tie swords to their sheaths to ensure they cannot be drawn. If you wish to draw your sword to pose for a picture, it must be made of approved materials. Metal blades are not allowed, whether they are sheathed or not.No wooden or aluminum/metal bats are permitted. This includes baseball bats, cricket bats, clubs, paddles, golf clubs, and similar objects. Bats made from approved materials are allowed.Saws, brass knuckles, nun-chucks, or other weapons may not be crafted from metal. These items must be used in a display function and not for engagement.Staffs, staves, Escrima Sticks, bo-staffs, canes, or other weapons must be constructed from the approved list, not metal.Bullwhips, lassos, ropes, and similar items must be coiled and secured to the Cosplayer.Incendiary, spark-creating, or other flammable weapons are PROHIBITED. Likewise, any items classified as an ECD (taser, stun guns, etc) are PROHIBITED.Metal Barbed-wire will not be permitted.Please don't show your weapons or props threatening or menacingly. (For instance, posing for a picture is okay, but cosplayers should not brandish weapons while walking the event floor.)Please keep prop weapons in convention areas. If you leave the premises or go out into public for any reason, please put away any prop weaponry immediately.All prop/costume weapons purchased at the convention must be approved by the FanX Salt Lake Comic Convention Safety Team for carrying during the convention. These items must also adhere to the weapons policy.Bags and backpacks are allowed but are subject to a bag check at the discretion of Salt Lake Comic Con staff and security.

If you want to avoid having your costume weapons inspected and tagged or are unwilling to comply with these policies, please leave them at home. Failure to willingly comply with FanX Salt Lake Comic Convention’s official cosplay rules and weapons policy may result in ejection from the convention (without a refund) and potential legal action, if necessary. ***All rules and regulations are subject to change. ***

FanX Salt Lake Comic Convention reserves the right to inspect all costumes and weapons individually to ensure that the event remains completely safe and family-friendly. Those who violate these rules assume all responsibility in the event of injury.

PROPS/WEAPONS THAT, UPON INSPECTION, DO NOT COMPLY WITH THE ABOVE STANDARDS MUST IMMEDIATELY BE REMOVED FROM SALT PALACE PROPERTY OR THROWN AWAY.

IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS ABOUT YOUR UNIQUE COSPLAY OR WEAPONS IDEA, PLEASE CONTACT US HERE

www.fanxsaltlake.com
No functioning lightsabers allowed ?
 
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