Josh's Captain America Shield

Need help with picking a Polish

So here's the current situation:

The guys I had put on the catalyzed clear coat were not able to buff and polish the shield due to time constraints. Since I couldn't find anyone else to do it, I decided to do it myself. Last night using 2000 grit sand paper I wet sanded the shield. Then, I used Meguiars Mirror Glaze #85 Diamond Cut with a rotary buffer.

Meguiars Mirror Glaze #85 Diamond Cut Compound 2.0


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Now I'm at a point where I need to use a polish. The shop suggested using 3M perfect it machine polish. I don't know much about it because I've never used it so I started using searching for something different. The ones I'm thinking about using are these:

Meguiars Mirror Glaze #83 Dual Action Cleaner/Polish
Meguiars #83 Dual Action Cleaner/Polish polishes away light to moderate swirls and scratches. Meguiars dual action cleaner/ car polish works well with

Meguiars Ultimate Polish
Meguiars Ultimate Polish, meguiars car polish, meguiars polishes, mcguire's

3M Perfect-It Ultrafine Machine Polish
3M polish, 3M ultrafina, ultra fine polish, 3m car polish, rotary polisher, finishing polish, final polish

3M perfect it machine polish
3M Perfect-It 3000 Machine Polish, 3M 06064, remove swirl marks, 3M Perfect It Swirl Remover

I don't really know the intricate differences between these three but if anyone's used these before I'd love some input. Or if you've used another product that might work better, I'm open to suggestions. Thanks!

And before anyone asks, yes I'm doing this with a broken finger lol.
 
Hey Josh, I did look into what I have been using with some success.

Walmart.com: Meguiar's Cleaner Wax Liquid: Automotive

THis is more of a last step cause it really polished things up to a perfect shine.

I think I just used a basic polishing compound on the previous step.

good luck.

K, I'll definitely take a look at it. Finhead suggested I use the G10 Farecla compound so if it's not polished enough I'll use that. Thanks as always!

This is the "go to" polish at the body shop I work at (I'm a glass tech, not painter). I've used it on plenty of my own personal projects with great results.

The Ultrafine would be the next step, though I doubt most people could notice the difference it would make unless they were really staring.
I looked into those, and unfortunately, 3M is really expensive. I used 3M earlier in the project and it worked pretty well but I'd like to see how well the G10 performs. Thanks though!
 
So I was working on the polish tonight and I ran into some trouble. None of the polishes I used sat well. Looking directly at the shield you can't tell anything is wrong but from an angle I can clearly see smudging. It's not sitting even at all and the G10 didn't do so well.

Any suggestions?
 
Hey, sorry for getting here late.. just got your pm... I would of said do a dry buff with no compound at all... but it depends on your clear coat... some clear coats just cant handle the buffing waxes and smudge up easily... Also, you need to buff in the direction of the metal grain, so I wouldn't use a circular buffer like that, but an edge buffing pad on a drill instead so you can keep with the metal grain. Just some tips.. a dry buff with a super soft wheel should take out the smudges... you might want to call the folks who did your clear coat and ask them what they think.
 
Hey, sorry for getting here late.. just got your pm... I would of said do a dry buff with no compound at all... but it depends on your clear coat... some clear coats just cant handle the buffing waxes and smudge up easily... Also, you need to buff in the direction of the metal grain, so I wouldn't use a circular buffer like that, but an edge buffing pad on a drill instead so you can keep with the metal grain. Just some tips.. a dry buff with a super soft wheel should take out the smudges... you might want to call the folks who did your clear coat and ask them what they think.

It's all good Chris no need to apologize. The guys that did my clear coat used 3M's machine polish. Now I could always use that but it's so damn expensive :unsure. I was using an orbital buffer so maybe I should try doing it by hand? That would explain why the blue center looks great and the rest looks smudgy.

I could always try doing the dry buff, although I don't know where I can get a good quality super soft bonnet for my drill. Hopefully Lowe's or something has 'em.
 
It's all good Chris no need to apologize. The guys that did my clear coat used 3M's machine polish. Now I could always use that but it's so damn expensive :unsure. I was using an orbital buffer so maybe I should try doing it by hand? That would explain why the blue center looks great and the rest looks smudgy.

I could always try doing the dry buff, although I don't know where I can get a good quality super soft bonnet for my drill. Hopefully Lowe's or something has 'em.

yeah, lowes and home depot have them
 
Here's better photo of what I'm talking about. Looking directly at it, you can't see it but in certain light you can.

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Re: Update!

I have the same blank shield and I am looking for the star for the next step in this keepsake I am making for his Captain America themed room. Can you tell me how to contact "Valor" to see if he can make one for my shield? Also, do you know who could paint the shield. I am with you, I almost hate to paint it. Thanks
 
Re: Update!

I have the same blank shield and I am looking for the star for the next step in this keepsake I am making for his Captain America themed room. Can you tell me how to contact "Valor" to see if he can make one for my shield? Also, do you know who could paint the shield. I am with you, I almost hate to paint it. Thanks

Lol. :lol Valor (Steve) is a great guy and lots of his threads are about the Cap shields and will be tremendous help to anyone regarding paint, stars, etc...

From what I've seen in the JY he's still cranking out shield stars, so you could PM him. I think he's still around. :)
 
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