Jod Na Nawood | Captain Silvo Costume - Skeleton Crew

[Modery]

Boots with gaiters

Alright, finally going to post about the boots and gaiters - the part of the costume that I looked at the most, as there were a range of scenes were they were visible, and I wanted to get as much detail as possible.

First, a good view from a promo photo (well, the cardboard standout):

We can already see that there are multiple parts to this.

Next, a photo that shows actual items on display at Lucasfilm as shared by Phil Szostak on Instagram:

I currently think that there are 4 parts, though some of them might be "connected" with each other (see further below)

1. The boots themselves. Brown coloured. We can't see if they are Chelsea boots (similar to what Din Djarin wears in The Mandalorian, so ankle high) or higher boots (somewhere around the middle of the lower leg), but my gut feel is that they are more likely the former.
   Here's how the Mando boots were created (minus any other leather parts for the legs):
   
   
   
   
   
2. The boots are covered in the middle by 2 leather flaps that are connected at the top (glue?) and at the bottom velcro?). These flaps leave some space to the front so that the boots can be seen, cover the middle, but stop before the heel
   
   
3. There is another flap (I ran out of words what to call these things...) that lays above #2 and #4. It is made of a slightly thicker leather and hgoes around the leg near the ankle. Also seems to be detachable, maybe velcro used here
   
   
4. Lastly, the gaiters main part. They consist of 5 flaps around the leg (potentially a 6th below them that can't really be seen?) starting from the bottom, which have the appearance of being openable at the back. At the top there's a stronger piece of round leather with another thinner darker piece of leather on top of it - there are 2 buckles towards the back to keep it closed.

These boots are picked up by JNN in episode 3:

We can see here that just below the boots the 2 middle flaps are connected with each other - I'm guessing that there is some velcro or similar in place so that it can be removed easily.

The left foot (on the right side) shows that there are two piece of leather here instead of one big piece/ The line in the middle is caused by a slight overlap between the two pieces, I assume they are glue together here.
We can also see the #2 ankle piece being not perfectly closed at the end (left foot), but having a slightly opened end towards the outside. As we can see on the right foot, it goes all around the ankle, so it's one long circular piece.
We can also see on the left foot that the 5 individual lower layers of the gaiters aren't fully closed. Not sure if they are sewn/glued together here or if there's something like velcro being used, allowing it to be opened and closed easily

Here we can see that the top part of the gaiters is a thicker piece of leather that goes around the calves, with a "thinner", darker piece of leather on top of it.
We can also see that the lower layers slightly overlap each other, with the higher layers covering each layer just below it a bit (again, sewn/glued together). The middle section above the shoe looks like as if the half that comes from the inside is slightly covering the half that comes from the outside

Not the best image quality here, as this is from the scene where he finds the boots - extremely dark. We can see here that the gaiters seem to be quite "soft", bending a lot to the side, which is why I think that the boots are not very high (as mentioned, maybe Chelsea boots). We can also catch a glimpse of the 2 buckles with the leather straps at the back

And a side view where we can clearly see the 2 buckles

Another view of the 2 buckles

I think the buckle straps go all around the top part, as we can see some "thickened area" at the front

Here's one of the better views of the back (only see for a split second).

The "thick leather" on the top seems to go all around, but I assume that it is not permanently closed. The thinner layer on top does not go all the way around but leaves a gap at the back for the buckle straps.
This is how I think the top part with the two layers works (top open, bottom is when wrapped around the leg/closed):

 

[Edged]

I feel like this could be done one of two ways. Either you use a shorter boot to attach the bottom piece of leather to the instep, then create the top section as a separate piece altogether. That way you can easily put the boot on then the top section would attach to your calf then naturally fall onto and over the bottom and give the appearance of being a single piece.

To illustrate, Imagine DPs boots were all black. It would be difficult to tell if this was all one piece or 2, which it is. The boots themselves are tactical and end at the top of the ankle.

The other way would be to start with a full shafted riding boot. That would give you a better foundation to build upon and would make them a single piece, they just might be a PITA to get on.

From what I can tell, the soles on JNNs boots look to be leather, not rubber like Mando’s, so that would lead me to a riding boot.

 

[greenmachines]

I feel like this could be done one of two ways. Either you use a shorter boot to attach the bottom piece of leather to the instep, then create the top section as a separate piece altogether. That way you can easily put the boot on then the top section would attach to your calf then naturally fall onto and over the bottom and give the appearance of being a single piece.

To illustrate, Imagine DPs boots were all black. It would be difficult to tell if this was all one piece or 2, which it is. The boots themselves are tactical and end at the top of the ankle.

The other way would be to start with a full shafted riding boot. That would give you a better foundation to build upon and would make them a single piece, they just might be a PITA to get on.

From what I can tell, the soles on JNNs boots look to be leather, not rubber like Mando’s, so that would lead me to a riding boot.

Agree on pita. The loop hooks would need to be there to keep from ripping off the new additions while trying to get the boot on.

 

[Edged]

Exactly. It wouldn’t be practical. I think the best bet here would be to start with a riding/cowboy boot with a shorter 11” shaft. That would give a solid foundation and the ability to keep the structure of the softer leather around the calf, but still have it be a second piece.

Looking at them again. That may even be 3 separate pieces…

 

[greenmachines]

Exactly. It wouldn’t be practical. I think the best bet here would be to start with a riding/cowboy boot with a shorter 11” shaft. That would give a solid foundation and the ability to keep the structure of the softer leather around the calf, but still have it be a second piece.

agreed. i think they chose the boot cover idea for that purpose as well. Ease of use but looks like a custom boot setup. Honestly, this makes those halloween boot covers legit

 

[Edged]

Yeah it’s a great way to disguise real life boots and still look other worldly. I don’t think any production, no matter what the budget, wants to employ customer booteries if they can just get something off the rack and add to it.

Here’s an example of what I meant.

The black boots on far right are the actual brand Deadpool wears and similar to how the Mando boots were made. Some of those leathers on JNN look pretty supple, so I’d think you’d need some form of support for you’re upper layers, but like we mentioned, you don’t want a full shafted boot like the one to the far left or you’ll never get them on. You’d probably have to cut it a bit, too, as they go all the way to the knee and his don’t seem to go that far.

That leaves the ones in the middle. That’s an 11” shaft Roper style. Excuse the bad mockup, but you’d be able to attach most of your layers directly to the boot itself to get that rigidity.

Edit: On second thought, maybe that’s not the way to go. It looks like JNNs are tapered pretty well to the calf. Any kind of mid-length boot is going to flare out.

Maybe the best bet would be to get something similar to mando (but with a smooth sole) then make the boot covers. You can always attach the leather pieces to a base sheet or something to add rigidity then Velcro then around back to get a snug fit around the calf.

And yes my house is terrible dated. That aqua is everywhere! lol

 

[Edged]

Yeah. Here’s the BS figure. Wish I had thought to look there before I opened my mouth! Definitely should start out with something low and snug to the ankle and then just build the covers over it. You don’t want a higher boot getting in your way or keeping that tapered properly up the calf.

Something like this:

Men's President Lace-Up Boot In Black Coffee - Thursday Boot Company

Comfortable Men's Plain Toe Lace-Up Boot in Hand-Finished Brown 'Black Coffee' Leather. Handcrafted with Goodyear Welt Construction Using the Highest Quality Materials. 2,000+ Verified Customer Reviews. Free Shipping & Returns.

thursdayboots.com

Or

Men's Journeyman Boot In Brown Stone Rambler Leather - Thursday

Men's Chelsea Boot in Brown Stone Rambler Leather. Featuring 270° Goodyear Welt Construction, Knight™ Anti-Slip Durable Rubber Outsoles, And Dual Leather Pull Tabs. Handcrafted By Our Most Senior Artisans With the Highest Quality Materials. Shop Now for Free Shipping & Returns!

thursdayboots.com

Might be a good place to start. Im sure you could find something cheaper. Don’t worry about laces and stiching as that top piece of leather will cover all that, anyway.

 

[Modery]

Men's Journeyman Boot In Brown Stone Rambler Leather - Thursday

Men's Chelsea Boot in Brown Stone Rambler Leather. Featuring 270° Goodyear Welt Construction, Knight™ Anti-Slip Durable Rubber Outsoles, And Dual Leather Pull Tabs. Handcrafted By Our Most Senior Artisans With the Highest Quality Materials. Shop Now for Free Shipping & Returns!

thursdayboots.com

Might be a good place to start. Im sure you could find something cheaper. Don’t worry about laces and stiching as that top piece of leather will cover all that, anyway.

They look very close to what I bought in December (well, mine have black rubber soles, but were a lot cheaper), thinking that I might use them for a Silvo costume, and if not then for something else. Because I had them next to me this whole time I kept comparing the screenshots against them, but always kept in mind that I might actually always see things a certain way exactly because I look at them, ignoring other options.

Based on your comments above I think we can be very certain that whatever boots were used where relatively short - so no mid-calf style or even higher.

 

[smithjohnj]

Here is my proof of concept for the Jod Coat Cuff. I call this an overcuff as it is constructed separately and slipped up the original coat's sleeve. The top is attached to the outside of the existing sleeve and the bottom is tucked up inside the original cuff and stitched in place. The base fabric has alternating 1/8" dark and light stripes. I believe the coat's stripes are dark brown and tan and have used that combination in my sample. If there is more definitive information, that would be useful to our collective projects. The top of the cuff displays 12 horizontal stripes making it 1 1/2” high. The height of the bottom of the cuff is the same as the top; another 1 1/2”. The center section of the cuff is an extension of the top's horizontal stripes covered with three bands of a different material. Immediately above the top band is a brown stripe. Then there is a single brown stripe between each band, and immediately below the bottom band. In order for there to be a brown stripe below and above each band, the band's height must be an odd number of stripes (1, 3,5, 7, ...) high. From analyzing the images the band must cover 7 stripes or 7/8 “. The total height of the center section is then 3 x 7/8” + 3 x 1/8”) for a total of 3”. The total visible cuff height is then 6”. A seam allowance would be added to the top for finishing and attaching the top edge, and another allowance on the bottom to turn over and up into the existing sleeve. So the top and center base is a rectangle with the stripes running horizontally, and the bottom a rectangle with the stripes running vertically. The two rectangles are joined so the stripes of the two pieces are precisely perpendicular. The width and positioning of each band to align with the brown stripes IS critical for an accurate look.

The material of the bands is not as definitive. Each band is constructed with an overlap, and the edges of all three bands are aligned vertically. The overlap edge appears to fall at what I would call 3/4 front – not facing directly to the front or directly to the side but halfway in between. The top edge of each overlap has 1/4” clipped or rounded corners (I am interested in other members opinions or better photographic evidence). The bottom layers of the overlap look like they are the same color while the top of the overlaps differs from the bottoms. This is possible because there will be a seam in the back of the overcuff. The material coming from one side, as the bottom layer, can be different from the material coming from the other side as the top. (Remember the two overcuffs will be reversed images of one another with the overlap left-over right on the left side and right-over-left on the right side,) The top layer “appears” to have a more reflective nature than the overcuff base material, the original coat fabric, or the bottom layer of the overlap. The top and bottom band seem to exhibit the same top layer color with the center band's top layer being lighter. The center band's top “appears” to be a close color match to the tan of the base fabric. The top and bottom are darker but not as dark as the base fabric's brown stripe.

I have considered several possible materials for the bands. Those include synthetic fabrics which tend to have a more reflective nature, vinyl tape and pleather. I decided a thin, glazed leather would have the right look and convey the correct “image” for the character. This would also coordinate with the coat's epaulettes which could be made from a thicker leather than the bands. I had pigskin available and one seemed a good match for the base fabric's tan or Color C in the diagram. I am testing a mid-range “Saddle Tan” glazed pigskin for Color A. Color B seems similar to Color C except not reflective. In the photo, I tried different bottom layers. I used the suede or backside of the Color C pigskin for the top test (my current favorite). I used the same Color C pigskin right-side up for both the top and bottom layers in the center test (not enough contrast). And I deglazed the right-side of the Color C pigskin for a less reflective bottom test. I also tried different edge styles for the top layers and believe I like the rounded corners best. Overall am pleased with the top layers but the images show the saddle tan skin's pores more than I like. I am still looking for better matches. A diagram of the layout and image the test sample is attached. As always I welcome better information, opinions, comments, critiques, and corrections.

 

[smithjohnj]

After switching from Jod's Coat to another project, I found a great resource I did not know I even needed. Cricut has a Sampler Collection of 10 different 12" x 12" vinyl sheets all in shades and tints of Brown. This could be a great way to share and communicate color choices among members working on these Skeleton Crew projects. Each sheet would be more than enough to complete the overcuffs if vinyl is the way you want to go. Now that I have these in hand I my need to reevaluate my own options. They were even on sale today.

 

[greenmachines]

After switching from Jod's Coat to another project, I found a great resource I did not know I even needed. Cricut has a Sampler Collection of 10 different 12" x 12" vinyl sheets all in shades and tints of Brown. This could be a great way to share and communicate color choices among members working on these Skeleton Crew projects. Each sheet would be more than enough to complete the overcuffs if vinyl is the way you want to go. Now that I have these in hand I my need to reevaluate my own options. They were even on sale today.

that is a great find

 

[Darthikari]

Here is my proof of concept for the Jod Coat Cuff. I call this an overcuff as it is constructed separately and slipped up the original coat's sleeve. The top is attached to the outside of the existing sleeve and the bottom is tucked up inside the original cuff and stitched in place. The base fabric has alternating 1/8" dark and light stripes. I believe the coat's stripes are dark brown and tan and have used that combination in my sample. If there is more definitive information, that would be useful to our collective projects. The top of the cuff displays 12 horizontal stripes making it 1 1/2” high. The height of the bottom of the cuff is the same as the top; another 1 1/2”. The center section of the cuff is an extension of the top's horizontal stripes covered with three bands of a different material. Immediately above the top band is a brown stripe. Then there is a single brown stripe between each band, and immediately below the bottom band. In order for there to be a brown stripe below and above each band, the band's height must be an odd number of stripes (1, 3,5, 7, ...) high. From analyzing the images the band must cover 7 stripes or 7/8 “. The total height of the center section is then 3 x 7/8” + 3 x 1/8”) for a total of 3”. The total visible cuff height is then 6”. A seam allowance would be added to the top for finishing and attaching the top edge, and another allowance on the bottom to turn over and up into the existing sleeve. So the top and center base is a rectangle with the stripes running horizontally, and the bottom a rectangle with the stripes running vertically. The two rectangles are joined so the stripes of the two pieces are precisely perpendicular. The width and positioning of each band to align with the brown stripes IS critical for an accurate look.

The material of the bands is not as definitive. Each band is constructed with an overlap, and the edges of all three bands are aligned vertically. The overlap edge appears to fall at what I would call 3/4 front – not facing directly to the front or directly to the side but halfway in between. The top edge of each overlap has 1/4” clipped or rounded corners (I am interested in other members opinions or better photographic evidence). The bottom layers of the overlap look like they are the same color while the top of the overlaps differs from the bottoms. This is possible because there will be a seam in the back of the overcuff. The material coming from one side, as the bottom layer, can be different from the material coming from the other side as the top. (Remember the two overcuffs will be reversed images of one another with the overlap left-over right on the left side and right-over-left on the right side,) The top layer “appears” to have a more reflective nature than the overcuff base material, the original coat fabric, or the bottom layer of the overlap. The top and bottom band seem to exhibit the same top layer color with the center band's top layer being lighter. The center band's top “appears” to be a close color match to the tan of the base fabric. The top and bottom are darker but not as dark as the base fabric's brown stripe.

I have considered several possible materials for the bands. Those include synthetic fabrics which tend to have a more reflective nature, vinyl tape and pleather. I decided a thin, glazed leather would have the right look and convey the correct “image” for the character. This would also coordinate with the coat's epaulettes which could be made from a thicker leather than the bands. I had pigskin available and one seemed a good match for the base fabric's tan or Color C in the diagram. I am testing a mid-range “Saddle Tan” glazed pigskin for Color A. Color B seems similar to Color C except not reflective. In the photo, I tried different bottom layers. I used the suede or backside of the Color C pigskin for the top test (my current favorite). I used the same Color C pigskin right-side up for both the top and bottom layers in the center test (not enough contrast). And I deglazed the right-side of the Color C pigskin for a less reflective bottom test. I also tried different edge styles for the top layers and believe I like the rounded corners best. Overall am pleased with the top layers but the images show the saddle tan skin's pores more than I like. I am still looking for better matches. A diagram of the layout and image the test sample is attached. As always I welcome better information, opinions, comments, critiques, and corrections.

Looking great! Just checking, where did you get the striped material for the base layer?

 

[smithjohnj]

Checking for brown and tan stripes found quite a few hits. I was originally thinking upholstery fabric but most weaves did not have a sharp edge between the stripes or were too wide. The fabric I used in my test was produced by "Timeless Treasures Fabrics" which seems to have several resellers online. I bought mine from ShabbyFabrics.com. It was the first time I used them and they were very responsive. The fabric is a light weigh cotton so I plan to use a fusible interfacing to stiffen and strengthen it before creating the overcuff. For the test I did not do that extra step.

 

[Darthikari]

Question, for the shoulders on the coat, do we believe the patches are black or a dark brown?

 

[Darthikari]

Grabbed a yard of brown upholstery fabric from my local JoAnn’s store because it was of a similar color and lacked a visible pattern to the material. I eyeballed the dimensions for the straps on the coat opening, and I noticed that it appears to loop back in on itself at the center, like you could hook or lace the coat closed if you wanted to. All in all, I’m pretty happy with how it turned out….

 

[smithjohnj]

Long 3D print times allow for small tests. This time the shoulder patches. The vertical dimension is 25 stripes (including the border) which with my test fabric is ~ 79 mm. From the images I calculate the width to be 98 mm (or 3.125" x 3.86") This is not a very typical ratio but this is not a "golden ratio" patch. For my test I did a smaller set of patches with the same ratio (because I could fit two in a hoop I had at hand.) I found I would like a darker thread and a stiffer stabilizer Just a tip: When cutting out a patch with a complex border shape cutting close to the border can cut the threads, ruining the patch and leading to rework. Rectangular shapes are easier to trim but to avoid even the possibility just unweave the fabric up to the border and pull out the threads. This provides the cleanest possible edges.

 

[greenmachines]

Question, for the shoulders on the coat, do we believe the patches are black or a dark brown?

I'm certainly seeing the dark brown. But lighting can certainly push black into other ranges very quickly.

 

[Edged]

Jacket is looking good!

Found this on Etsy. I know this is just a budget costume and that you’d want to make yoursfrom scratch, but thought it might help a bit to visualize. They got the shirt right.

https://www.etsy.com/listing/1876899205/?ref=share_ios_native_control

 

[Vagabond Elf]

Based on your comments above I think we can be very certain that whatever boots were used where relatively short - so no mid-calf style or even higher.

Reverse engineering the boots is well outside my expertise, but I did want to observe that I have several pairs of knee-high boots - including one heavily insulated pair because I wear kilts in Edmonton winters - and all of them are soft enough to flop around the way Jod's do in the show. Granted that the winter boots have a side zipper, which makes them floppier.

Biker boots and cowboy boots are essentially PPE and are built out of tough leather to do their job; fashion boots - and yes, you can get knee-high fashion boots in men's sizes though you end up going to specialty stores - are just meant to look cool, and tend to be thin leather or pleather. For what it's worth, I could certainly see the boots having a tall fashion-boot base; a side zipper would let them fit snugly and then the gaiters would cover that.

 

[greenmachines]

Jacket is looking good!

Found this on Etsy. I know this is just a budget costume and that you’d want to make yoursfrom scratch, but thought it might help a bit to visualize. They got the shirt right.

https://www.etsy.com/listing/1876899205/?ref=share_ios_native_control

You can't tell me you don't recognize that buckle. Other people wouldn't notice but I very well know where our buckle doesn't match the onscreen buckle, but I can say that if we were intending to match THIS buckle that.... hint hint... we would have an exact match.