Edged
Well-Known Member
E8 around 12:50ish.
STAR WARS - Skeleton Crew props & costume
- Thread starter TK41434
- Start date
Modery
Member
here you go - increased brightness to get a clearer view
Edit: realised I can zoom in some more before taking a snapshot:
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This makes total sense to me!
Edged
Well-Known Member
Gotta imagine prop dept’s first rule when using real world objects is to find clever ways to disguise and eliminate logos/copyrights ect.
Just so happens I’m not in the most cash fluid position right now or I’d totally start amassing some pieces for fitment and measurements. I dont even have a printer, so other than helping to ID stuff, I’m not gonna be able to offer much, anyway.
Hopefully others join in that are also interested putting together set that are more skilled in fabrication/design than I am.
Now that I’m seeing these actually have more mods to them than I initially thought, they aren’t just flashlights anymore, they’re defining pieces to the characters. Almost like their lightsabers, in a way.
Just so happens I’m not in the most cash fluid position right now or I’d totally start amassing some pieces for fitment and measurements. I dont even have a printer, so other than helping to ID stuff, I’m not gonna be able to offer much, anyway.
Hopefully others join in that are also interested putting together set that are more skilled in fabrication/design than I am.
Now that I’m seeing these actually have more mods to them than I initially thought, they aren’t just flashlights anymore, they’re defining pieces to the characters. Almost like their lightsabers, in a way.
smithjohnj
Sr Member
This prop post is probably not for most members. It is about making Fern's “Wings” Badge. But maybe there are members with young associates that would like to be makers maybe even propmakers. Skeleton Crew had a number of excellent first-time props. Some even look like school arts and craft projects. I believe these can help encourage attention to detail and pride of accomplishment. I want to encourage the next generation because I want them to love these franchises so someday they will want to pay big bucks to buy all my collectibles. I have not provided these very basic instructions and observations to insult anyone intelligence, but to make them understandable to even the youngest reader. Emphasis on young. Some may use this information as a cookbook and just produce the final result. I hope others take it on themselves to do their own observations and calculations to see if they concur or dispute my findings. I have presented my approach and my conclusions, but I can be (and often am) wrong and there are other approaches and design choices. I would enjoy hearing about any amateur makers who take on this project and see their final results. Maybe other members would as well.
The first project I recommend is Fern's Speeder Wings. It is cheap and quick. The first goal is to identify the elements. In this project there are several common hardware items; corrugated joint fasteners, cotter pins, welded o-rings, flat washer, and (external) toothed lock washer. The background is less obvious but looking at the badge collection as a whole the answer for me was to use felt.
Like most recreations, the next question is dimensions. With “real world” environments it is always helpful to have a “standard reference” like a counter height or door frame or human hand for comparison. For any fabric projects with high-res images I use“ stitch length”. Sewing machines use a universal control to vary the length and width of stitches. The “standard” length is 2.5mm per stitch or 10 stitches per inch for most garment construction. Top-stitching can vary, but since one of it's goals is to draw attention - it uses a longer stitch length but that always varies in increments of .5 mm; 3.0, 3.5, 4.0, etc. The maximum length for reliable machine stitches is 6.0 mm or about 4 stitches per inch.
Another technique which I do not see mentioned much is using ratios and proportions. For example joint fasteners for “home use” in the U.S. come in common sizes with widths of 1/4”, 3/8”, 1/2”, and 5/8” (6, 9, 12, 15 mm). Therefore the ratio of width-to-length even in a slightly distorted image will help select the correct fastener and provide a “reference”. In the best image I had, the fastener ratio was .48. which closely matched the 1/2” real world sample. Using this reference it was easy to determine the sizes of the other components. The full list of materials is;
1/2” 5 gauge corrugated joint fasteners – qty 2
11/4” x 1/8” cotter pins – qty 2
1”x 3/32” cotter pins – qty 2
3/4”x 3/32” cotter pins – qty 2
Note: The first dimension is the length of the shorter leg of the pin. The second is the width of the loop at the end.
3/4”10 gauge welded o-ring – qty 1
1/2” 10 gauge welded o-ring – qty 1
Note: The first dimension is the “inside diameter” (ID). The second value is the cross section (CS) dimension. In this case the ring is made of 10 gauge steel. 10 gauge wire has a diameter of ~.1” or 2.6 mm. The outside diameter is given by ID + (2 x CS)
1/4”flat washer – qty 1
1/4”external tooth lock washer – qty 1
Note: Washers are dimensioned based on the size of the bolt which goes through the center
craft felt – gold
craft felt - light gray
metal adhesive
fabric adhesive (optional)
disposable razor (optional)
A cutting pattern for the felt with a layout diagram is attached. Gather all the hardware parts and use the layout diagram to test assemble your badge. For an accurate replica there are two important characteristics of the joint fasteners to aid in how they are oriented in the layout. First, one of the long edges is beveled the other is not. Second, when it is lying flat, you should see five clearly defined sections. Because it is corrugated you should see either five hills and four valleys, or five valleys and four hills. Flip the fastener over to examine the other side so you understand the different orientations. For cotter pins there is only one important characteristic, each pin has two legs and one is always longer than the other. In this prop sometimes the long leg is on the top and sometimes it is on the bottom. There is an important reason the legs are different lengths when the pins are used for their intended purpose; but those who are interested can do their own research. Check the orientation to make an more exact replica, or do it your own way. Personally I prefer symmetric and “well ordered” designs. The actual prop is “not the way I would do it”. Maybe it was made in a hurry, or it was just made to match someone else's definition of “well-ordered”. The person who studies a prop in order to recreate it is always more critical of the final product than the causal observer.
Make the subassemblies.
Cut the felt base pieces. Join them with fabric adhesive if you like, then sew them together along the light gray edge. The next step is optional. You can use a disposable razor to “shave” and defuzz the light gray felt. Military members who had to wear a beret might be familiar with shaving them to maintain a squared away appearance. Attach the cotter pins to the back of the joint fasteners with metal adhesive. NOTE: You attach to the BACK and then flip it over. DOUBLE CHECK the bevel-straight, hill-valley, long-short orientation of the fasteners and the pins. The diagram illustrates how the long and short legs of the pins should be placed to match the actual badge as viewed from the front – not the back. Here you can choose for screen accuracy or your own creativity.
Attach the tooth washer to the flat washer. Flat washers have an orientation which is a characteristic of how they are manufactured. It is impossible to tell from the images available and most people do not know or notice the two sides of a washer are different – so you can make your own design choice. Then attach the washers to the small o-ring. Note the flat washer is too big to fit inside the o-ring. It sits on the upper inside edge. This matches the images of the badge. To center and level the washers in the ring may require a temporary support or just a steady hand. Center the large o-ring on the felt base then add the other subassemblies. Sew the completed badge to your jacket or backpack along the gold edge of the badge. Post your Wings on therpf.com
The first project I recommend is Fern's Speeder Wings. It is cheap and quick. The first goal is to identify the elements. In this project there are several common hardware items; corrugated joint fasteners, cotter pins, welded o-rings, flat washer, and (external) toothed lock washer. The background is less obvious but looking at the badge collection as a whole the answer for me was to use felt.
Like most recreations, the next question is dimensions. With “real world” environments it is always helpful to have a “standard reference” like a counter height or door frame or human hand for comparison. For any fabric projects with high-res images I use“ stitch length”. Sewing machines use a universal control to vary the length and width of stitches. The “standard” length is 2.5mm per stitch or 10 stitches per inch for most garment construction. Top-stitching can vary, but since one of it's goals is to draw attention - it uses a longer stitch length but that always varies in increments of .5 mm; 3.0, 3.5, 4.0, etc. The maximum length for reliable machine stitches is 6.0 mm or about 4 stitches per inch.
Another technique which I do not see mentioned much is using ratios and proportions. For example joint fasteners for “home use” in the U.S. come in common sizes with widths of 1/4”, 3/8”, 1/2”, and 5/8” (6, 9, 12, 15 mm). Therefore the ratio of width-to-length even in a slightly distorted image will help select the correct fastener and provide a “reference”. In the best image I had, the fastener ratio was .48. which closely matched the 1/2” real world sample. Using this reference it was easy to determine the sizes of the other components. The full list of materials is;
1/2” 5 gauge corrugated joint fasteners – qty 2
11/4” x 1/8” cotter pins – qty 2
1”x 3/32” cotter pins – qty 2
3/4”x 3/32” cotter pins – qty 2
Note: The first dimension is the length of the shorter leg of the pin. The second is the width of the loop at the end.
3/4”10 gauge welded o-ring – qty 1
1/2” 10 gauge welded o-ring – qty 1
Note: The first dimension is the “inside diameter” (ID). The second value is the cross section (CS) dimension. In this case the ring is made of 10 gauge steel. 10 gauge wire has a diameter of ~.1” or 2.6 mm. The outside diameter is given by ID + (2 x CS)
1/4”flat washer – qty 1
1/4”external tooth lock washer – qty 1
Note: Washers are dimensioned based on the size of the bolt which goes through the center
craft felt – gold
craft felt - light gray
metal adhesive
fabric adhesive (optional)
disposable razor (optional)
A cutting pattern for the felt with a layout diagram is attached. Gather all the hardware parts and use the layout diagram to test assemble your badge. For an accurate replica there are two important characteristics of the joint fasteners to aid in how they are oriented in the layout. First, one of the long edges is beveled the other is not. Second, when it is lying flat, you should see five clearly defined sections. Because it is corrugated you should see either five hills and four valleys, or five valleys and four hills. Flip the fastener over to examine the other side so you understand the different orientations. For cotter pins there is only one important characteristic, each pin has two legs and one is always longer than the other. In this prop sometimes the long leg is on the top and sometimes it is on the bottom. There is an important reason the legs are different lengths when the pins are used for their intended purpose; but those who are interested can do their own research. Check the orientation to make an more exact replica, or do it your own way. Personally I prefer symmetric and “well ordered” designs. The actual prop is “not the way I would do it”. Maybe it was made in a hurry, or it was just made to match someone else's definition of “well-ordered”. The person who studies a prop in order to recreate it is always more critical of the final product than the causal observer.
Make the subassemblies.
Cut the felt base pieces. Join them with fabric adhesive if you like, then sew them together along the light gray edge. The next step is optional. You can use a disposable razor to “shave” and defuzz the light gray felt. Military members who had to wear a beret might be familiar with shaving them to maintain a squared away appearance. Attach the cotter pins to the back of the joint fasteners with metal adhesive. NOTE: You attach to the BACK and then flip it over. DOUBLE CHECK the bevel-straight, hill-valley, long-short orientation of the fasteners and the pins. The diagram illustrates how the long and short legs of the pins should be placed to match the actual badge as viewed from the front – not the back. Here you can choose for screen accuracy or your own creativity.
Attach the tooth washer to the flat washer. Flat washers have an orientation which is a characteristic of how they are manufactured. It is impossible to tell from the images available and most people do not know or notice the two sides of a washer are different – so you can make your own design choice. Then attach the washers to the small o-ring. Note the flat washer is too big to fit inside the o-ring. It sits on the upper inside edge. This matches the images of the badge. To center and level the washers in the ring may require a temporary support or just a steady hand. Center the large o-ring on the felt base then add the other subassemblies. Sew the completed badge to your jacket or backpack along the gold edge of the badge. Post your Wings on therpf.com
Edged
Well-Known Member
Very cool recipe! I had assumed the cotter pins were inserted into individual pieces. I never would have noticed the joint fasteners. The grey fabric underneath made the “valleys” hard to see. Good eye.
I’m tempted to make this myself. I really had no intention of making any of the patches, but this would be a cool, quick project that anyone could do.
I’m tempted to make this myself. I really had no intention of making any of the patches, but this would be a cool, quick project that anyone could do.
smithjohnj
Sr Member
The next project for associates is Neel's favorite tool. It must be -because he keeps it handy on the right-side of his belt. The only personal device he mentioned is his “protractor”, so I believe this is his geospacial protractor.
This prop is inexpensive to make, can be made very quickly, requires no dangerous tools or great skills but should be a well-recognized addition to one's cosplay or display collection. The basic element is a 50-foot Lufkin White Clad Steel Tape Measure. These are no longer sold new in stores but can be found on-line and other pre-owned goods markets, flea markets, “junk stores”, etc. There were millions made so you might even have an older relative (who worked in the construction field) who has one.
This prop is inexpensive to make, can be made very quickly, requires no dangerous tools or great skills but should be a well-recognized addition to one's cosplay or display collection. The basic element is a 50-foot Lufkin White Clad Steel Tape Measure. These are no longer sold new in stores but can be found on-line and other pre-owned goods markets, flea markets, “junk stores”, etc. There were millions made so you might even have an older relative (who worked in the construction field) who has one.
Edged
Well-Known Member
Modery can I bother you for one more cap of E5 around 38:50, please?
I wanted to get some opinions this. The replica in question has two areas in a very dark copper color and I think ALL the non-silver sections are the same gold and it’s just the lighting making the parts in question look darker.
Anyone feel free to give their input on this.
Here’s the sections I’m talking about…
Here’s the replica….
And here’s the prop in the LFL showcase.
Normally I’d say it’s just wrong as the prop clearly is the same gold color on all pieces, yet it is possible that’s a stunt saber or something that was changed.
I wanted to get some opinions this. The replica in question has two areas in a very dark copper color and I think ALL the non-silver sections are the same gold and it’s just the lighting making the parts in question look darker.
Anyone feel free to give their input on this.
Here’s the sections I’m talking about…
Here’s the replica….
And here’s the prop in the LFL showcase.
Normally I’d say it’s just wrong as the prop clearly is the same gold color on all pieces, yet it is possible that’s a stunt saber or something that was changed.
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smithjohnj
Sr Member
When working on a project I have to give it a name - so this is my take on Neel's Photon Meter. As always I am looking for comments and critiques, and of course better images of the prop so I can improve my version. I have no talent for creating new concepts or doing the artistic, organic models, but I do enjoy future tech. As there are some member who claim they are new to 3D printing I have a way modeling a project that works for me for mechanical designs. I make my designs as individual parts just like the ones that came in the Revell boxes I used as a kid. First it gives me a chance to get as rough or as detailed as I like for each element. Also I can work a little at a time. And of course when new details come out hopefully I do not have to redo everything, just the elements that change. Most of the time I am going for some type of articulated model. But as a final test, I merge all the parts together into a solid "stunt" version. This gives me the chance to see it all together and double check the fit and to see if there is consistency and continuity from one part to another. That has saved me a lot of time and frustration in the long (3D print) run
Attachments
Modery
Member
Here you go! First the picture that I got directly from the video stream (and of course focused on the key area, cropped off all irrelevant things)
And here again with brightness increased:
NakedMoleRat
Legendary Member
That’s a nice looking saber. I thought the ones from Ashoka and the Acolyte were rather uninspired.
Bravo Edged , niiiiice catch. That saber is different or at the very least not in the same condition.
The difference is actually not the darker bottom most piece but rather the unpainted ring right above it. The bright brass ring has not been stained with the same yellow/orange stain that is on the rest of the pieces. The second one shown on the display stand has the stain. You can see where the stain is not stable/hardy in the wiped area at the upper grip. This proves it is an exterior stain and not the color of the part's material.
gmrhodes13
Active Member
If anyone is looking for files to print Wim's toy soldiers @funkymaclunkey has come up with some VINTAGE STAR WARS KENNER-STYLE SKELETON CREW REPUBLIC JEDI PROP ACTION FIGURES
Wicked screen cap!!
I know this isn’t the appropriate place to say this but.. COUNT me in!!
gmrhodes13
Active Member
Another new behind the scenes image shared by @legacyeffects reveals the animatronics of #SkeletonCrew!
Modery
Member
Was checking another scene, came up with 35.5cm here
So the 3D model from BigFredCustoms is a bit too small
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