JFcustom's FOAM files

You'd have to look at the armor part you wish to make: for anything bulky like the chest,you can use thicker foam.The more detailed or delicate your object is,the thinner your foam should be.Hands 3mm,the rest 5mm would be my advice.
 
Hey JF!
I was wondering how you get these patterns like this?
I've been making original armor pieces and stuff for a little while now, and I would love to make some intricate pieces like these patterns.
Any tips on how to make my own patterns for original costumes?
 
Hi all! I stumbled onto the RPF on facebook and started lurking a while ago. I've always wanted a MK3, so I thought I'd take my shot at foam building. But I wanted to practice first. So paper and scotch tape first, then some 2mm foamies. I messed up on the ears, but I'm not worried for these. I read this entire thread and want to give a big THANK YOU to JF! So here they are, my very first two builds.


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I picked up some 1/4" foam mats from Harbor Freight, #11 blades, olfa knife, and a blade sharpener today. So once I make some progress with my full build, I'm gonna start a thread.
 
Would you mind re-upping the file? I'd love to crack these open. I'm working on an amalgamation batsuit, with bits and pieces of Arkham City, Origins, and Knight armor parts.

Thanks!
 
Hey JF!
I was wondering how you get these patterns like this?
I've been making original armor pieces and stuff for a little while now, and I would love to make some intricate pieces like these patterns.
Any tips on how to make my own patterns for original costumes?

Evil Ted Smith on YouTube has a series of videos on how to make your own custom templates. Check out Punished Props, too. :)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Hey, I have a question: Is this a good place to make a request? I found a PDO of something I wish to build but 1) It's on 4shared and my danger scenes are blaring like crazy and 2) not sure if the file is ready to be used for a foam build.

Thank you for you time.
 
Also, post what you are looking for specifically (as in a foam pdo of XXXXXXX armor/weapon/etc)... Someone here may already have it.
 
I would like to ask a question about filling gaps in foam armor parts:
do I fill gaps in foam armor parts with silicone caulk,do I use something entirely different,or do I simply wait until I need to plastic coat the armor part (the smooth cast 65D acting as a filler in the coating process) ?
Thank you all so much for your help
 
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I would like to ask a question about filling gaps in foam armor parts:
do I fill gaps in foam armor parts with silicone paste,do I use something entirely different,or do I simply wait until I need to plastic coat the armor part (the smooth cast 65D acting as a filler in the coating process) ?
Thank you all so much for your help

I use paintable latex silicone caulk to fill the cracks. This is the exact stuff I use:

http://www.lowes.com/pd/DAP-ALEX-PL..._clickID=0fb2b999-b539-4413-85d9-a77023a13d1c

I just apply it into cracks with my finger and wipe off excess with a wet rag, it's ready for plastidip/primer/paint/epoxy in a 1/2 hour.
 
Okay,so today I had finally found the courage to start using the heatgun on a test piece of 6mm (EVA/Dura)foam.It was my understanding that foam is supposed to turn shiny when heat-treated,however this did not happen on either heat setting.It was getting warm and softer though.

Is it safe to say that,despite absence of gloss afterwards,after having covered the entire piece of foam with heat for a short amount of time,the foam is then indeed ready for PVA treatment? Or is the gloss after heat treatment a requirement to continue?

Thank you again all for your help and patience.
 
Okay,so today I had finally found the courage to start using the heatgun on a test piece of 6mm (EVA/Dura)foam.It was my understanding that foam is supposed to turn shiny when heat-treated,however this did not happen on either heat setting.It was getting warm and softer though.

Is it safe to say that,despite absence of gloss afterwards,after having covered the entire piece of foam with heat for a short amount of time,the foam is then indeed ready for PVA treatment? Or is the gloss after heat treatment a requirement to continue?



Thank you again all for your help and patience.

No gloss is needed at all, a lot of it can depend on the specific cutting and stamping process of the foam you are using. You can technically pva without heat-treating at all anyways, the foam may just soak up a little more glue. The other reason I like to heat treat is to also 'lock' your foam into it's new shape; Heating and cooling like you did will help take out any curling that the foam (especially from rolls) had before, and then when it cools it will tend to retain the new shape better. Anyways, probably more than you want ed to know lol, but you should be good. I wave the gun over my pieces maybe 2-3 times and that's it, just enough to heat the surface but not even long enough to soften any hot glue joints.
 
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