Just to chime in on the printing over multiple sheets, your printer settings can affect your ability to align the pieces across sheets (even with orientation marks). My old printer had absolutely no problems making clean breaks that could be taped together perfectly later, but then I got the new printer and everything went goofy. the printed pages appeared fine, but a small section would end up missing (sounds like what was happening above) on the pieces that carried over to another page. Pepakura also started asking me before printing if I wanted to adjust scale to fit before printing, which it never did before (I would always say no for obvious reasons).
Anyways, I never fixed the problem, my templates are always set up to fit on individual pages so it wasn't needed. I personally think the problem was the margin settings of the printer not being the same as the margin settings in Pepakura, so the difference was confusing the software. That might be a fix.
I also got the foam samples from the company Durkness mentioned a few posts back- the stuff looks pretty great. It's got light striation lines on the surface of the foam, but they are so shallow that I think sealant would fill them in. The foam is also smooth on both sides, and feels a little more durable than the Best Step mats. I'll seal a sample piece later today and post some pics up. :thumbsup
Hey guys, this might be a dumb question, but I'm trying to build the Pepper Potts armor for my girlfriend, but I've already hit a roadblock right after downloading the file... How the heck do I go about opening it?? I realize this is a derp on my part
If you are talking about the Guvyer 3 - I used 477 for the height and it fits like a glove.... literally... not a lot of room to breathe if you are claustrophobic. I was surprised with the width but when you throw it on it's a very snug fit front to back and I have a small/medium head.
Has anyone made the guyver helmet yet? If so then can you tell me what size to print it out?
On default, the helmet is quite small. if I line the eyes up. the bottom of the helmet only goes down to my bottom lip. I tried scaling the difference between the eye to chin but that makes everything else over the top big.
You would scale the chest the same so it matches up for fit. In a perfect world you would also scale the abs and cod the same, they have some sections that are supposed to line up with the the chest and spine, but you can also modify those pieces a little to make up for a scale change. The neck file can just be scaled to fit your neck, since the chest brace will fill in the open gaps that a larger scale chest could cause. The shoulder bells also should be at least the chest/back scale to fit properly; some people make them a little larger to increase range of motion. Good luck with it!
It's all foam. I did the texture with a heat knife.