superweasle
New Member
Re: Iron man mark vii cardboard
Love this build; great job!
Love this build; great job!
Iron man mark vii cardboard/celtic/InteFoam/AVENT Suit concept
- Thread starter dfx13
- Start date
Re: Iron man mark vii cardboard
Behind the scenes look of the Avengers. Around 3:40 there's a mark VI costume in clip 1.
clip 1
The Avengers B-Roll I - Trailer Addict
clip2
http://www.traileraddict.com/trailer/the-avengers/b-roll-ii
clip 3
http://www.traileraddict.com/trailer/the-avengers/b-roll-iii
clip 4
http://www.traileraddict.com/trailer/the-avengers/b-roll-iv
Behind the scenes look of the Avengers. Around 3:40 there's a mark VI costume in clip 1.
clip 1
The Avengers B-Roll I - Trailer Addict
clip2
http://www.traileraddict.com/trailer/the-avengers/b-roll-ii
clip 3
http://www.traileraddict.com/trailer/the-avengers/b-roll-iii
clip 4
http://www.traileraddict.com/trailer/the-avengers/b-roll-iv
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NelBearPig
Active Member
Re: Iron man mark vii cardboard
Just wow!
Just wow!
CardBoard King
Active Member
Re: Iron man mark vii cardboard
Now that is what I call recycling
Now that is what I call recycling
Upper Flaps
I went to Home Depot and got a few items for the upper flaps.
Pic 1
#8x32 12" Threaded Rod
#8x32 Machine Screw Nut
#8x32 Nylon Lock Nut
Pic 2
After experimenting the distance between the hinges I decided they should be 2" apart.
Pic 3
I also had to drill a separate hole in the Robart door hinge. First I used a 1/16 bit to create the pilot hole then I worked my way up to a 5/32 bit.
Pic 4
I removed the circular ball on one side of the push rod.
Pic 5
This is what my upper flap system looks like. I used the Nylon Lock Nut on outside and the Machine Screw Nut on the inside. I sandwiched the push rod in between 2 screws because it allows me to adjust the location later on.
I went to Home Depot and got a few items for the upper flaps.
Pic 1
#8x32 12" Threaded Rod
#8x32 Machine Screw Nut
#8x32 Nylon Lock Nut
Pic 2
After experimenting the distance between the hinges I decided they should be 2" apart.
Pic 3
I also had to drill a separate hole in the Robart door hinge. First I used a 1/16 bit to create the pilot hole then I worked my way up to a 5/32 bit.
Pic 4
I removed the circular ball on one side of the push rod.
Pic 5
This is what my upper flap system looks like. I used the Nylon Lock Nut on outside and the Machine Screw Nut on the inside. I sandwiched the push rod in between 2 screws because it allows me to adjust the location later on.
Upper Flaps
To demonstrate how the system looks like. I temporarily attached it to the back with the servos exposed. Eventually the servos will be placed inside which gives it more leverage when it pushes the hinge upwards.
Pic 1
This is the closed state.
Pic 2
Closed state different angle
Pic 3
Open state.
Pic 4
Closed state different angle
I hope you get the idea.
To demonstrate how the system looks like. I temporarily attached it to the back with the servos exposed. Eventually the servos will be placed inside which gives it more leverage when it pushes the hinge upwards.
Pic 1
This is the closed state.
Pic 2
Closed state different angle
Pic 3
Open state.
Pic 4
Closed state different angle
I hope you get the idea.
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Bugs
New Member
Re: Iron man mark vii cardboard
this is looking really really good dude.. Also thank you very much as i'm hoping to to the same i'm following with great interest. Tho it's not the physics of it i think i'm going to have a problem with. The thought of the servo programming is scaring the hell out of me
this is looking really really good dude.. Also thank you very much as i'm hoping to to the same i'm following with great interest. Tho it's not the physics of it i think i'm going to have a problem with. The thought of the servo programming is scaring the hell out of me
Servo
Here's all 4 servos in action. You'll notice that the servos aren't moving at the same time. That's because the 9v I'm using is old. The pololu is powered by the usb connected to the computer.
I still have an 1 channel left which I plan to connect lights to. Here's how the channels are broken down.
channel 0 - on off switch
channel 1 - servo 1 (Bottom left)
channel 2 - servo 2 (Top left)
channel 3 - servo 3 (Top right)
channel 4 - servo 4 (Bottom right)
channel 5 - empty
Here's all 4 servos in action. You'll notice that the servos aren't moving at the same time. That's because the 9v I'm using is old. The pololu is powered by the usb connected to the computer.
I still have an 1 channel left which I plan to connect lights to. Here's how the channels are broken down.
channel 0 - on off switch
channel 1 - servo 1 (Bottom left)
channel 2 - servo 2 (Top left)
channel 3 - servo 3 (Top right)
channel 4 - servo 4 (Bottom right)
channel 5 - empty
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Re: Iron man mark vii cardboard
Here's the code which you can paste in the "Script" tab of the Pololu Maestro Control Center. This script will not work though until you set up a button or switch on your controller. The link below will teach you how to do that.
Pololu - 7.b. Attaching Servos and Peripherals
goto main_loop
sub button
0 get_position 500 less_than
return
sub wait_for_button_press
wait_for_button_open_10ms
wait_for_button_closed_10ms
return
sub wait_for_button_open_10ms
get_ms
begin
button
if
drop get_ms
else
get_ms over minus 10 greater_than
if drop return endif
endif
repeat
sub wait_for_button_closed_10ms
get_ms
begin
button
if
get_ms over minus 10 greater_than
if drop return endif
else
drop get_ms
endif
repeat
main_loop:
begin
2000 2000 8000 8000 frame
8000 8000 2000 2000 frame
repeat
sub frame
wait_for_button_press
1 servo 2 servo 3 servo 4 servo
return
Depending how you set up your servos, all you have to change are your Minimum and Maximum point ( I explained this more in the picture below)
Here's the code which you can paste in the "Script" tab of the Pololu Maestro Control Center. This script will not work though until you set up a button or switch on your controller. The link below will teach you how to do that.
Pololu - 7.b. Attaching Servos and Peripherals
goto main_loop
sub button
0 get_position 500 less_than
return
sub wait_for_button_press
wait_for_button_open_10ms
wait_for_button_closed_10ms
return
sub wait_for_button_open_10ms
get_ms
begin
button
if
drop get_ms
else
get_ms over minus 10 greater_than
if drop return endif
endif
repeat
sub wait_for_button_closed_10ms
get_ms
begin
button
if
get_ms over minus 10 greater_than
if drop return endif
else
drop get_ms
endif
repeat
main_loop:
begin
2000 2000 8000 8000 frame
8000 8000 2000 2000 frame
repeat
sub frame
wait_for_button_press
1 servo 2 servo 3 servo 4 servo
return
Depending how you set up your servos, all you have to change are your Minimum and Maximum point ( I explained this more in the picture below)
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longlenium
New Member
Re: Iron man mark vii cardboard
omg ..... great stuff... looking forward for more update
omg ..... great stuff... looking forward for more update
Re: Iron man mark vii cardboard
So this is the best pic of the lower flaps:
But ... I am not sure. I do think that there could be lower flaps but I cant really determine what shape they might have or what would be under them if they do exist.
The only thing that has me wondering about this picture and the scene that comes after it where he is flying towards the portal is that the light from the jetpack boosters is coming from under these flaps and in the following scenes there are a few frames that look like the flaps above the jetpack boosters are in the shape of the lower flaps and a few frames that show the shape of the top flaps. I think there was a mistake in the CGI work here. I just am trying to figure out if there are indeed lower flaps and if so are there also boosters under them? That doesn't seem likely though. I might just have to wait till I see the movie before I can decide for sure.
What are your thoughts on this?
I also had a question for you about the lights you used. I also used a G4 sized disc w/ 12 5050 LEDs for my palm lights on my Halloween costume and I tried to power it with a 9v but it was noticeably brighter when I used 12v. Did you check it w/ 12v to see the difference? If so, were the ones you got also brighter running on 12v? If not, I wonder if it was the difference in the number of LEDs on the disc that caused mine to dim. From what I know about LEDs, I don't think so. I think that it is the resistors that cause the dimming since the ones on the disc are designed for 12v.
So this is the best pic of the lower flaps:
But ... I am not sure. I do think that there could be lower flaps but I cant really determine what shape they might have or what would be under them if they do exist.
The only thing that has me wondering about this picture and the scene that comes after it where he is flying towards the portal is that the light from the jetpack boosters is coming from under these flaps and in the following scenes there are a few frames that look like the flaps above the jetpack boosters are in the shape of the lower flaps and a few frames that show the shape of the top flaps. I think there was a mistake in the CGI work here. I just am trying to figure out if there are indeed lower flaps and if so are there also boosters under them? That doesn't seem likely though. I might just have to wait till I see the movie before I can decide for sure.
What are your thoughts on this?
I also had a question for you about the lights you used. I also used a G4 sized disc w/ 12 5050 LEDs for my palm lights on my Halloween costume and I tried to power it with a 9v but it was noticeably brighter when I used 12v. Did you check it w/ 12v to see the difference? If so, were the ones you got also brighter running on 12v? If not, I wonder if it was the difference in the number of LEDs on the disc that caused mine to dim. From what I know about LEDs, I don't think so. I think that it is the resistors that cause the dimming since the ones on the disc are designed for 12v.
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