Fantastic work man, really amazing.
Immortan Joe Mask Replica
- Thread starter logan74k
- Start date
The copper is 6ga solid wire bent to 90 degrees - it -looks- correct to me, whether or not the film prop uses copper I'm not sure.
I've used a bunch of different things for filler on urethane castings, bondo, epoxy putty, glazing putty are all good fillers given the proper dry time and of course whatever the testors stuff in a tube is. On the dimpled nose bridge, I was carefully using the corner of some sandpaper folded twice, as well as a small curved carving chisel to mimic the detail as I carved down the filler. On dense organic patterns like this you can get away with a lot as long as you 'feather' the pattern you end up with out over more of the surface. Meaning, do your own sanding detail a little bit outside of the seam as well. After you prime you'll probably see it looks very close and just needs a tiny amendment or two. A dremel with a sperical grinding bit would also work, just touching lightly and randomly to recover the pattern in the filled area.
I've used a bunch of different things for filler on urethane castings, bondo, epoxy putty, glazing putty are all good fillers given the proper dry time and of course whatever the testors stuff in a tube is. On the dimpled nose bridge, I was carefully using the corner of some sandpaper folded twice, as well as a small curved carving chisel to mimic the detail as I carved down the filler. On dense organic patterns like this you can get away with a lot as long as you 'feather' the pattern you end up with out over more of the surface. Meaning, do your own sanding detail a little bit outside of the seam as well. After you prime you'll probably see it looks very close and just needs a tiny amendment or two. A dremel with a sperical grinding bit would also work, just touching lightly and randomly to recover the pattern in the filled area.
Interceptor6
Sr Member
Very nice, Logan! Best I've seen to date!
I work well with steel and wood, but rubber & plastic HATE ME! Were those hose connector parts a found item? or scratch built? I searched a while, but found nothing similar.
Cheers, Jeff
I work well with steel and wood, but rubber & plastic HATE ME! Were those hose connector parts a found item? or scratch built? I searched a while, but found nothing similar.
Cheers, Jeff
The hose connectors are from scratch, I tend to think they were sculpted on the movie mask as well, both due to the photos of clay sketches in the Art book, and the fact that they fit the hoses exactly while having a bunch of ornamental features (IE a wrench bolt straight up from the bottom) that seem out of place on any real gas mask.
Also the mask is now available on Etsy, in a few different options.
Maskmaker I hope you'll post some pics of yours when it's done!
Also the mask is now available on Etsy, in a few different options.
Maskmaker I hope you'll post some pics of yours when it's done!
I don't know how I missed this thread.
Logan74k, that mask is dynamite! I don't have ZBrush, currently, but I dabble in 123D Sculpt on my iPad, and have printed a couple small scale figures. Seeing your skills on the computer and how they've translated to a wearable mask is so exciting! So good.
Logan74k, that mask is dynamite! I don't have ZBrush, currently, but I dabble in 123D Sculpt on my iPad, and have printed a couple small scale figures. Seeing your skills on the computer and how they've translated to a wearable mask is so exciting! So good.
MAX ROCKATANSKY
New Member
KILLER
Implausibility
Jr Member
This is wonderful! Immortan Joe is on my future costume list and if I can make my mask as tenth as good as yours I will be a VERY happy bunny 
I can't do it your way as digital stuff and 3d printing is like Martian to me, and I'm way too old a dog to learn new tricks, but at least this gives me something to aspire to.....
I can't do it your way as digital stuff and 3d printing is like Martian to me, and I'm way too old a dog to learn new tricks, but at least this gives me something to aspire to.....
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logan74k I grabbed one of your Immortan Joe mask kits off Etsy, and I just got it Friday. It is so freakin' good! I'll post pics once I have it assembled and painted. Have you had success articulating the mouth? Since the kit comes with the jaw separately, I would like to make it openable, but before I reinvent the wheel, I will gladly take any pointers you may have.
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B Wo! Hah, I didn't realize it was you. Glad you're happy with it! I dropped it off in the lobby since I was down there anyway at a landscape supply. Definitely do post some pics here!
I haven't thought it through myself in terms of making a 'track' or the like to move the jaw up and down on - all I've done was build up the thickness of the mask where the pieces mate so that potentially a mechanism could be mechanically anchored with jewelers screws or similar. I'd love to see what you come up with if you do make a mechanism.
There's an overcomplicated drawing in the art book that sort of, kind of shows how they may have tried to build the mech for the film. What's drawn doesnt look like it would work in the space. There's also a trap door, and some kind of pull string involved. Like I said, it's a bit strange. It also doesnt appear that they either tried or succeeded in making it move in real time. It never moves on screen, always cuts to open or closed. Maybe a set screw on a rod? I feel like some small brass rod, tube, epoxy putty and rubber bands will get you there one way or another. Just a thought.
I haven't thought it through myself in terms of making a 'track' or the like to move the jaw up and down on - all I've done was build up the thickness of the mask where the pieces mate so that potentially a mechanism could be mechanically anchored with jewelers screws or similar. I'd love to see what you come up with if you do make a mechanism.
There's an overcomplicated drawing in the art book that sort of, kind of shows how they may have tried to build the mech for the film. What's drawn doesnt look like it would work in the space. There's also a trap door, and some kind of pull string involved. Like I said, it's a bit strange. It also doesnt appear that they either tried or succeeded in making it move in real time. It never moves on screen, always cuts to open or closed. Maybe a set screw on a rod? I feel like some small brass rod, tube, epoxy putty and rubber bands will get you there one way or another. Just a thought.
logan74k Yeah, on Friday, I was at some friends' house, grilling some kabobs and enjoying the beautiful weather, when I got an Etsy email w/ a note from you saying the mask was in my lobby, and I thought "Oh, what a day....what a lovely day!" Haha.
I think you're on the right track w/ the brass rod, tube, rubber band idea. Thank you.
I have a very talented machinist friend who can help me make it undoubtedly over-complicated, as well.
For now, here's a pick I grabbed off a video online. It doesn't look like the jaw is simply pivoting. Once I have the top of the mask assembled, I can fidget.
I think you're on the right track w/ the brass rod, tube, rubber band idea. Thank you.
I have a very talented machinist friend who can help me make it undoubtedly over-complicated, as well.
For now, here's a pick I grabbed off a video online. It doesn't look like the jaw is simply pivoting. Once I have the top of the mask assembled, I can fidget.
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Long overdue photos of this amazing thing:
Ein
Sr Member
It actually looks like that's how it's designed from the little bits you can see in the film. Looks like it goes through the mouth, into the jaw, then curves up behind the top row of teeth.
Edit: I realize you did the same thing on your own mask, I just figured I'd clarify with the picture I had too.
@logan74k - Yep, I used the photo Ein just posted and followed this thing as closely as I could and worked the look of it into my "mechanism" to make the jaw move. Though, looking at it now, I should've used thicker gauge copper wire (I bought 5 gauge to mimic the ones that come with the kit but I'm thinking it's more like 7/8 gauge) and shaved the insides of the mouth down if I really wanted to get that exact look, but, the hell with it. Looks good enough for me.
As far as the braces in the mask go, it's some aluminium stock I had around that I cut up and joined together. It's double jointed with somewhat tightened with nuts to keep the mouth piece in place but not stiff enough that it won't move. The front joint actually slides a little bit up and down the long brace so it can move up and down and mimic the film's function. It doesn't technically "slide" the mouth down, so much as it extends it forward enough for it to move. Also, beyond sliding the mouth down, it also helps to hide the rest of the system. It's a pretty simple, ghetto set-up. The rubber bands provides enough resistance to keep the thing in place. The real trick was bending all the metal to get it to lay within the inside of the mask so it doesn't push it so far away from the face. Regardless of its finicky-ness, it works.
So far this is just for display but I'm sure it'll grow from there. I just bought and attached some more gas mask hoses to it so I can sling it over my shoulders to keep it from being so front-heavy. This has caused me to think about working on the bellows to complete the look. But in doing that, I'd need to work on the chest armor, as well; seeing how the hoses are strapped to them. But you can't just have his chest armor without the other pieces...
...You see where this goes from here.
I'm trying not to fall into that tar pit but that's proving difficult as I've already got one foot stuck.:lol
As far as the braces in the mask go, it's some aluminium stock I had around that I cut up and joined together. It's double jointed with somewhat tightened with nuts to keep the mouth piece in place but not stiff enough that it won't move. The front joint actually slides a little bit up and down the long brace so it can move up and down and mimic the film's function. It doesn't technically "slide" the mouth down, so much as it extends it forward enough for it to move. Also, beyond sliding the mouth down, it also helps to hide the rest of the system. It's a pretty simple, ghetto set-up. The rubber bands provides enough resistance to keep the thing in place. The real trick was bending all the metal to get it to lay within the inside of the mask so it doesn't push it so far away from the face. Regardless of its finicky-ness, it works.
So far this is just for display but I'm sure it'll grow from there.
I just bought and attached some more gas mask hoses to it so I can sling it over my shoulders to keep it from being so front-heavy. This has caused me to think about working on the bellows to complete the look. But in doing that, I'd need to work on the chest armor, as well; seeing how the hoses are strapped to them. But you can't just have his chest armor without the other pieces......You see where this goes from here.
I'm trying not to fall into that tar pit but that's proving difficult as I've already got one foot stuck.:lol
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im drooling here logan ....
they way it looks from PPP's photo you can overlap it in a resperator so i cant help but practically faint whats the store name on ETSY cus im seeing waaaaay too much to tell which one is yours ( altho i think its DappledLightStudio )
they way it looks from PPP's photo you can overlap it in a resperator so i cant help but practically faint whats the store name on ETSY cus im seeing waaaaay too much to tell which one is yours ( altho i think its DappledLightStudio )
Thanks Jaganar - I'm not sure what you mean by overlap it, a person would have trouble fitting an adult size respirator between the mask and their face. Not to say it couldn't be done. Though, PoopaPapaPalps could maybe pack on about 80 lbs to really fill it out. You've got the shop right.
More like 180 and grow a few more feet. Many have described my physique as "imp-like" or have called me flat-out "a goblin."
