Immortan Joe costume from Mad Max, Fury Road
- Thread starter ahoudini
- Start date
Bigboss1o1
Active Member
I have to ask is that a Bane jacket I see back there? if so I am so jealous!
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Bigboss1o1
Active Member
Yeah the only cool costume things I have are my custom tailor made Joker suit from the dark Knight the whole shebang and this little baby that I made for last Halloween
Sadly he's seen better days
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Sadly he's seen better days
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Bigboss1o1
Active Member
And I got this bad boy made while I was stationed in Korea by Mr. Hong real purple suede with pink satin lining
The only costume in my life that I've worn more than once
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Bigboss1o1
Active Member
Wow dude I'm super jelly you have soo much cool stuff!!! Some day maybe I'll have cool stuff like that for now I'll just keep collecting posters lol
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Wow, thanks for posting this, bigboss. I'm really liking the look of this over a lot of the worbla chest pieces I've seen (although they still look great), I'm glad I held off on ordering my worbla sheets, and I'm happy to hear this PETG stuff can be formed with a heat gun as well!
Thanks a bunch for this link, Ein!
Do you by chance mean ".040" instead of ".40" thickness? All of the plastic shim stock rolls of PETG I'm seeing aren't nearly that thick.
Also, logan74k finished my mask over the weekend, sent me a few pictures last night, and holy crap does this thing look amazing! Absolutely beautiful work, I cannot wait for this to arrive! Thanks again Logan!!!
Bigboss1o1
Active Member
Yeah I meant .040 lol
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Hamsterstyle
Well-Known Member
That's my Armor in the picture.
I ordered a roll of transparent Worlba, and it's still sitting in the shipping container. I'll probably use it for some other project down the road.
The PETG worked great, The .040" forms very easily by hand over the top of the armor. I've tried messing with thinner PETG by forming a 2 liter bottle. I think that any thinner than .040" deforms from hard to a giant mess very quickly.
The PETG is pretty brittle. You can't score and break like you can with styrene. I'm finding that cutting it with some heavy scissors has been the best.
First, make sure you have gloves to cut down the heat a bit. I precut the plastic to roughly the shape (+2-3 inches), then used the heat gun to slowly form the armor from the middle outward. I just pushed the plastic as it heated slowly into the grooves, then when it cooled it holds it's shape really well. It still has some flexibility, and it seems durable enough.
The edges I've done by drilling holes along the entire outside. Then sandwiching Worbla on the edges into the holes for a solid hold. The glue on the worlba actually adheres a bit to the PET-G, so the edges are very firmly secured. After that I layed a strip of fabric on my work bench, put some worbla into the fabric, Turned in the edges, and then wrapped the edges a second time with the fabric secured Worbla. I'll upload some pictures of this process to see if it's useful to other people.
To finish the armor, I lightly sanded it with a sanding sponge to make it opaque. If you sand too much, a low heat setting on the heat gun makes it transparent again. Then I just hand painted it with acrylic to make the muscles more defined.
Also, In some scenes his armor is only backpainted with a light yellow ochre, In other scenes it's much thicker ochre with some darker browns mixed in. So painting it either way is probably "canon"
Edit:
I will add that hand forming with a heat gun is a quick and dirty process, and you can get a single curve very easily. I did every part of the armor except for the shoulder bells just by hand forming. Since those are more domed, they don't hand form easily. You can probably hand form a dome, but it would be very slow and prone to problems.
Bigboss1o1
Active Member
I was hoping you would come on here and claim your work I hope you didn't mind me using A picture of you work I made sure to put your name on it
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Ein
Sr Member
Well, after seeing Hammerstyle's post I made a go of forming the PETG sheets I have, but I'm not satisfied with it. The stuff I have is 1/16" thick, which is .060" and change, rather than .040". Suspect the extra thickness is why I am struggling here.
Will get some thinner sheets and try again.
Will get some thinner sheets and try again.
Logan, I used a spiral saw bit on a dremel to rough it out and then did the straight cuts with a bandsaw. I added the curves with a bench sander. I am not sure what the clear plastic mannequin parts are made of but it is tough and very forgiving to work with as it has no tendency to shatter or crack.
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