If you were to buy a resin printer today...

ID10T

Sr Member
And had a modest budget, what would you be looking at? To be clear, I don't want to spend a lot of money; however, I'll spend a little more to get features that are useful and relevant. Easier to use and stand-alone operation are two examples along this line.

I have been thinking that I am interested in having a few things printed in resin, which is supported here by a member (thank you!) but for some small stuff, it might be nice to be able to print some test pieces and other stuff myself to check sizing and details. Larger pieces I'll still farm-out of course. And

Now, I have ZERO experience with such equipment, and I know the quality of the final product is dependent on that (no different than having the best machine shop on earth with no idea how to use it), so it has to be ID10T proof. Or, at least ID10T resistant.

I looked on eBay of course, and small, preowned/refurbished units can be had there for about $200.00 That would be paid for in a few prints, plus I could (possibly) do small resin print runs for others, to help keep it fed. New from China is roughly similar pricing. I didn't look much deeper than that. I'd rather a refurbished unit from the US than a new unit from China. Unless there is a compelling reason to do otherwise.

So, looking for a discussion with suggestions, both good and bad. "I bought an XYZ and it was total garbage!!!" That's helpful too!

And mods: feel free to move if there is a better place for this. It seemed to be the best place I could find.
 
I can highly recommend the Elegoo Mars line of printers. I printed this model on the original Mars:

IMG_6090.jpg


There are now newer versions of the Mars: the Mars 2 pro, etc... I also have the Elegoo Saturn, which has a larger build volume. Can't speak to any other brand, but my little Mars has been printing like a champ recently.

SB
 
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I have a pre-owned Elego Mars on my watch list now; As I mentioned, I didn't dig too deeply but it seemed to have software good for someone like me...

I don't need "the best", but if the price gap is small, I'll jump it.
 
I think your best bet is either the Anycubic Photon S or Elegoo Mars for entry level price.

I know there have been some very good sales on the Anycubic Photon S recently as they phase it out in favor of the new models. I think the Mars is in the same boat

They are comparable to each other in regards to resolution and quality as well as build plate size. And just because they are older models does not mean worse quality

The next generation for each (Elegoo Saturn and Anycubic Mono X) have larger build volumes and in the case of the Mono_X a much faster printing time (not sure about the Saturn)

They in effect are basically bigger/faster versions but in the end there is not really any noticeable difference in print quality from what I can tell between the older models
 
I spoke with my co-worker that has the regular printer (filament) and he thinks it would be great to get a resin printer. He says even a "low-quality" resin printer would be awesome compared to what he has now.

I'm still mulling it over, but that "mars" printer seems reasonable. I could set it up here at work in the inspection room where we used to have a filament printer a few years ago.

It does not solve my skill set deficit, but I guess I'll figure it out. My co-worker can probably teach me.
 
I spoke with my co-worker that has the regular printer (filament) and he thinks it would be great to get a resin printer. He says even a "low-quality" resin printer would be awesome compared to what he has now.

I'm still mulling it over, but that "mars" printer seems reasonable. I could set it up here at work in the inspection room where we used to have a filament printer a few years ago.

It does not solve my skill set deficit, but I guess I'll figure it out. My co-worker can probably teach me.
post here


The title says "Elogoo Mar" but I have an Anycubic Photon, however. the same basic principals apply to any resin printer and I got some tips out that helped me over some real hurdles early on
 
First - stay with the SLA / Resin printers. the Print quality is much better and the machines seem less finicky - although can still have variables...

I started with an Elegoo Mars - and had some initial success with it - but I messed up the printer due to me not knowing what I was doing and its in need of some small repair.

Tip 1: Until you understand the Slicer settings and what they do - stay with the defaults.
Tip 2 (related to 1): Get a Calibration print and learn how to read it to make sure your "default settings" are good enough.

That being said I'd go up in size from the Mars if I were to do it again. The Mars and other printers of this size and style are great and pretty cheap but the build size is pretty limiting... pretty much only good for small things.

I recently (like last weekend) purchased an EPAX printer 8.9 4k mono. I set it up but have not printed with it yet. Its more expensive than the mars level printers but has MUCH larger print volume. Its also upgradable to a 10 inch 5K screen shortly... which for me was what I wanted :). But it runs $600-700. For me printing Studio scale parts I figure will likely save me thousands.... and large enough to print "most" studio scale parts.

From the research I did Most real users and testers highly recommended the EPAX products and company, as typically the best in their class... so I went with them.

I guess what I'm saying is look at what you want to print with it and how large those things are - then go up a size... and if that's too rich for your blood - then settle for the smaller one realizing that you'll likely not be able to print everything you want - but will get very good results for most small things.

Jedi Dade
 
Besides my Creality CR-10 which I have used extensively and still continue to use, I also have a Elegoo Mars. I like the Mars, but had a few teething problems with it, namely build plate levelling and stuff unbonding from the plate. The screws on the Mar's build plate, tend to move the plate when tightening so it's difficult to get the build plate levelled. Also, the earlier Elegoo Mars' had a painted build plate surface which little would stick to. I sanded that down to bare metal. Elegoo has corrected this now for newer models and also add a "CD" pattern so resin has more areas to stick to, but the older ones might have the painted plate.
I like to build larger things so, I found I should have bought larger printers in the first place. Recently I purchased the Anycubic Mono X and so far not one of my prints have failed. 4 screws keep the plate levelled, but the design could be improved.
Resin is about 25 bucks CDN for 500ml, but 43 for 1000ml. The Anycubic stuff is a couple of bucks more. I have that on order and hope that matching the resin with the printer will yield even better results.
I was initially going to go with an Elegoo Saturn, but was too impatient waiting for one to pop up on Amazon.

TazMan2000
 
I recently went through a similar exercise...


I decided to go with the AnyCubic Photon Mono X, primarily because it has one of the largest print volumes at its price point...and it was on sale.

From my research, I’d say Elegoo or AnyCubic are good choices. Form printers seem to be most idiot-proof with amazing print quality, but are hella expensive compared to their counterparts.

You can get an Epax or Phenom if you need a bigger print volume, but the price is 2-3x that of the smaller AnyCubic or Elegoo.

Sean
 
There are different kinds of Resins used for al kinds of stuff. But the basic resin is about $20/liter. you can also hollow out larger prints to save Resin etc...

Jedi Dade
 
What do we call "large" items? I have no intent to print armor plates for example, but a blaster barrel, yes.

I guess anything can be printed in sections, and if it really big, and I MUST have it, I can still farm it out.

I need to read the linked threads above, but right now the Mars is looking good for me. Note it is a used, but refurbished, unit with all accessories (other than gloves and goggles I guess, but I have that stuff) that I am looking at. I can ask about the bed, and see what the deal is there. (thanks for that detail, as I have no working knowledge of these things)

I will also send the info to my co-worker for his input. He wants a resin printer but currently has a very large filament printer that he has not got a lot of use from apparently.

And, secondary of course, do people want to have small parts run in resin? I mean, am I a fool to think I will get ANY commission work to keep this thing fed? Not that that is a deal breaker, I think the machine will "pay for itself" in a couple months of screwing around for myself, but that was sort of a secondary justification for the purchase. I think I can pay it down in less than a year either way.
 
And, I just discovered the "Elgoo Mars 2". And I can't determine what is different about it (other than being a bit more expensive). Should I bee looking at the "2" rather than the original? (Probably doesn't matter for a ID10T droid)
 
Its not impossible to get commissions and such enough to pay for it - but I would not count on it. DO it for yourself and if you make money with it count it as a bonus.

Jedi Dade
 
Yeah, that's fine, and sort of what I figured. I still think at ~$200 it will pay for itself with my own shenanigans. I figure 4-6 prints should do it, and I'm looing at that on one costume (Scariff Marine). Everything after that is resin cost only. (assuming the machine holds together)

I sent a link for an Elegoo Mars Pro to my co-worker. I have no idea what the "pro" gets you at this point... Probably something I'll wish I had in a year, if I don't spend the extra $20 now...

I started reading the 16-page thread, and I'm feeling good about going with this one. Even if you guys have or will upgrade from it, you have a ton of collective experience to draw upon. And I appreciate that!!

UV curing lamp I found (also ebay) which is basically an outdoor fixture with UV LEDs inside, plus a "solar powered" turntable, so the light makes the table spin. No cover, but I could put it on a timer and let it run when I leave for the day...
 
You don't need to cure it for long. If you get a solar powered turntable you can leave it inside on a window ledge in a sunny area for a hour (depending where you live) and it will cure without power. If you need it right away, you can build yourself a carboard box and line it with tin foil and then put it in there for about 10-20 minutes depending on the wattage of the UV light.
Save the money for a bigger and better printer.

TazMan2000
 
The technologies on all these printers are relatively the same so it usually comes down to customer service and availability of parts.

I chose the Epax E10 for the size and price and ease of use. It's based in the US and the customer service is great (get replies to emails within a few hours and when I call there is a person on the other end of the line). It's been a blast to use and I purchased Lychee slicer and my jump from FDM printing to resin has been enjoyable.
 

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