Hasbro Rebels Millennium Falcon Conversion

[kokkari]

I got the headlights in and getting the cockpit prepped for fibers.

I've also started adding the missing panels with .15mm styrene. I've finished the front section, but have a ways to go. This is very tedious and time consuming. For the life of me I can't figure out the advantage Hasbro figured into removing these panels. I guess for ease of placing stickers, but why an indentation instead of placing the stickers directly on the hull plating? I almost said screw it and didn't want to add them, but then decided the little inconsistencies and nuances of adding my own paneling will make it look more real and less like a toy.

 

[rbeach84]

Toy-logic, K! Making it as 'idiot proof' as possible by providing matching 'holes' for the stickers. I wonder about the economics of using stickers instead of painting the pieces at the factory... again, perhaps the 'toy maker's logic' says applying the stickers is 'part of the fun'. Also, they'd have the same issues with paint adhesion that we're having with the polypropylene. Can you report on the accuracy of the stickers as templates for cutting sheet plastic replacements? Would be great if they are a pretty precise fit. Also, do they provide for ALL the missing panels or just some?

R/ Robert

 

[kokkari]

Toy-logic, K! Making it as 'idiot proof' as possible by providing matching 'holes' for the stickers. I wonder about the economics of using stickers instead of painting the pieces at the factory... again, perhaps the 'toy maker's logic' says applying the stickers is 'part of the fun'. Also, they'd have the same issues with paint adhesion that we're having with the polypropylene. Can you report on the accuracy of the stickers as templates for cutting sheet plastic replacements? Would be great if they are a pretty precise fit. Also, do they provide for ALL the missing panels or just some?

R/ Robert

I found the sticker template to be a little under sized. When I cut them out I just included a .5 mm boarder as I cut them out. I test fit them, then traced them onto the styrene before cutting them out again. They're fairly accurate, but found in order to be completely accurate, I had to make 2 pieces out of their template of one piece on occasion. I did this on about 5 pieces. I counted a total of 36-38 on top. The other pain in the butt is cutting all the little notches out, not to mention adding the little square greeblies that are all over the Falcon hull. The good news, is I think I only count 13 that need to be cut out for the bottom. Here's what I mean about cutting some pieces into two.

These were originally 1 piece according to the stickers, but are actually 2 on the real Falcon.

 

[jjsmlee]

excellent work on the plating. I am going to do the same. I learned somewhere you can purchase a nibbler inexoensively off of eBay to make the notches

 

[kokkari]

Finished painting the interior. I'm not going with anymore paint detail than this as it's hard to see it anyways through the cockpit. I think I achieved the essence of what it's supposed to look like.

 

[JMChladek]

Don't really need to add anymore paint to that cockpit. It looks just right as I see it.

 

[Jaitea]

Yep,...it looks brilliant

J

 

[kokkari]

Added the fibers to the cockpit interior and did a test to see how it looks. I used a Sharpie to make all the different colors. This is way easier than having multiple LED colored lights.

 

[kokkari]

Here are a couple of pics of all the fibers from the inside and with the cone closed. I decided not to run fibers into the overhead section of the cabin because it was already a very tight fit and you probably wouldn't be able to see them anyways.

 

[kokkari]

I pre-painted the engine grill and attached it to the rear. I also installed some parking/landing lights (whatever they're are called). After I paint the base color I'll trim them flush with the hull. I need to add some tubing to the exterior along with some additional greeblies for some extra details and to fill any light leaks. Almost time to seal this bad boy shut and start painting.

 

[kokkari]

I feel like the end is in sight. I glued the two halves together last night and started adding extra details and greeblies to the side panels. Does anyone know what size tubing matches the the existing pipes on this scale? I have 1/16 brass rods, but they are slightly too big.

 

[Crash752]

Awesome job Kokkari, she's looking great! Did you seal up the screw holes on the bottom?
As much I wanted to use brass rods they just seemed a little too big, I really should have waited to find a better size as I feel they just look better overall.

So after reading this I went and had another look at mine. 1/16 rod still seems good on the engine deck but it looks like 3/64 is gonna hit the mark for the main pipe work...I only have a couple rods on hand but I've already started started laying it down I'll make a quick trip tomorrow to grab more and finish up. (Now if only my model shops had some tanks I could use)

 

[kokkari]

Awesome job Kokkari, she's looking great! Did you seal up the screw holes on the bottom?
As much I wanted to use brass rods they just seemed a little too big, I really should have waited to find a better size as I feel they just look better overall.

So after reading this I went and had another look at mine. 1/16 rod still seems good on the engine deck but it looks like 3/64 is gonna hit the mark for the main pipe work...I only have a couple rods on hand but I've already started started laying it down I'll make a quick trip tomorrow to grab more and finish up. (Now if only my model shops had some tanks I could use)

Thanks, I'll see if I can locate some 3/64 tomorrow. I debated whether or not to seal the screw holes and decided not to. I wanted to leave myself the ability to open it up and access the electronics if something went wrong. I figure I won't see the bottom that much anyway. I did get rid of the molding marks on the top and the bottom with gap filler. I was a little worried that it would flake off with this plastic, but so far so good.

 

[kokkari]

I started tearing her up with the dremel this morning. The plastic on this does well to give you the shredded metal look as it is pulpy anyway. Any of the pulpy stuff I didn't want I scraped off using my finger nail.

 

[DarthVador]

Sweet job on your FO work looks truly amazing..by the way your picture is not working above..

 

[Tom1971]

Thanks, I'll see if I can locate some 3/64 tomorrow. I debated whether or not to seal the screw holes and decided not to. I wanted to leave myself the ability to open it up and access the electronics if something went wrong. I figure I won't see the bottom that much anyway. I did get rid of the molding marks on the top and the bottom with gap filler. I was a little worried that it would flake off with this plastic, but so far so good.

I cover the screw holes with a tiny "plate" that has just a small spot of glue so if I need to crack it open I can just pop the plates off and unscrew it.

 

[kokkari]

I cover the screw holes with a tiny "plate" that has just a small spot of glue so if I need to crack it open I can just pop the plates off and unscrew it.

That's a good idea! I'll try using a hole punch to cut them out of styrene. Looks to be the right size.

 

[kokkari]

Hole punch worked great. I used it on the same .15 mm styrene I used for the plating. Now I have removable plugs if I need to open her up.

 

[kokkari]

Some guys have emailed me about seeing all the parts that come with my sidewall kit. Can't really see it in the photo, but 3 of the pieces come curved to the hull shape. Definitely more accurate than the cooper, but less parts and definitely more affordable at $65 + shipping, than the Salzo/Tony parts but less accurate. Just now in the painting phase and they look awesome when its all together! If your interested just PM me.

 

[kokkari]

Does anyone know what technique is used to make these orange hash marks? They're semi translucent and seem to be somewhat outlined.