Graflex grip affixing, what's your favorite method?
- Thread starter Joek3rr
- Start date
I use E6000 because it gives enough time to adjust before setting. You have to be careful with how much you apply though. Another good option is VHB tape.
Here are a couple of good threads on advice for attaching grips in general:
Epoxy durability on grips for ANH sabers
Need opinions- best adhesive for Vader lightsaber grips
Here are a couple of good threads on advice for attaching grips in general:
Epoxy durability on grips for ANH sabers
Need opinions- best adhesive for Vader lightsaber grips
Kylo1
Sr Member
I definitely prefer double sided tape as it is easy to remedy and less messy if you make a mistake. I used to eyeball it when positioning but on my last
effort, when putting the Rey Graflex together, it wasn't quite right. To fix this, I purchased a 3d printed grip guide from Shapeways and I replaced the old grips with Roy's new resin grips. It worked a treat!!
effort, when putting the Rey Graflex together, it wasn't quite right. To fix this, I purchased a 3d printed grip guide from Shapeways and I replaced the old grips with Roy's new resin grips. It worked a treat!!
Attachments
As for a guide you can always wrap tape around the bottom edge of the tube. Cut the tape even edge to edge so now the piece of tape will fit around the entire circumference of the tube and each end of the tap buts up to itself
Then unwrap it, lay it flat on the table and measure the entire length of it
Divide that length by 7. Use number as a measurement and mark 7 lines. (You’ll only be able to physically mark 6, where the 2 pieces of tape but will be the 7th mark)
Lay the tape now with all the marks on it back on the tube, and mark the tube with a pencil
That’s where all 7 track go
That’s how I’ve always done 7 track
Then unwrap it, lay it flat on the table and measure the entire length of it
Divide that length by 7. Use number as a measurement and mark 7 lines. (You’ll only be able to physically mark 6, where the 2 pieces of tape but will be the 7th mark)
Lay the tape now with all the marks on it back on the tube, and mark the tube with a pencil
That’s where all 7 track go
That’s how I’ve always done 7 track
jorged123
Well-Known Member
What a great idea! I always used a printed guide from The Graflex Bank, but I think I like this better! I also used the double-sided, 3M tape, pre-applied to roman's grips. It sticks like a charm.
I think I'll try the E6000 for my next Graflex replica -TFA/TLJ or ANH.
russellsch
Master Member
If I had a real GRAFLEX flash, I would use VHB tape. But, as all the ones I've made are on replicas, I used E6000. & it comes in black now?! WOO-HOO!!! & I used the 3D template from Shapeways for placement.
Somerset
Sr Member
Great idea! And by doing so you've saved like 20-25 bucks over getting something printed. Just make sure you line it up with the end stamping or D-ring/Kobold clip and clamp.
I’m too cheap to buy the one on shape ways, I’m fooling around with printing. Maybe try and print my own
But for right now my tape trick works faster for me
Once I print a jig then that’s the way to go
The tape trick is how I evenly space the holes around drag slicks for the locking screws
Works on 200mph race cars, should work fine on a graflex
But for right now my tape trick works faster for me
Once I print a jig then that’s the way to go
The tape trick is how I evenly space the holes around drag slicks for the locking screws
Works on 200mph race cars, should work fine on a graflex
Joek3rr
Master Member
Wells
Well-Known Member
Yeah I've tried them all, epoxy is brittle when dry so tends to knock off the grip easy. Use double sided tape only when using the newer Wannawanga resin TFA/TLJ grips as e6000 can't fully cure under there. If it's the t grips from the OT then e6000 all the way. Like said above less is more. Use a tooth pick when applying and put it on the 2 bits either side of the valley down the middle, don't put the glue all over it as it's only the tips of the valley that affix to the Graflex.. Hope that helps.
Also I use the 3d printed guide as it keeps the grips locked in place and won't slide around. Apply one at a time, hold each one as you go for a minute or 2 then move on to the next one. When they are all done clamp them all in place with the guide still on with elastic bands and leave to cure for 3 days. You don't need to leave the guide on for those 3 days though, that can come off after 24 hours.
Also I use the 3d printed guide as it keeps the grips locked in place and won't slide around. Apply one at a time, hold each one as you go for a minute or 2 then move on to the next one. When they are all done clamp them all in place with the guide still on with elastic bands and leave to cure for 3 days. You don't need to leave the guide on for those 3 days though, that can come off after 24 hours.
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Wells
Well-Known Member
I’m too cheap to buy the one on shape ways, I’m fooling around with printing. Maybe try and print my own
But for right now my tape trick works faster for me
Once I print a jig then that’s the way to go
The tape trick is how I evenly space the holes around drag slicks for the locking screws
View attachment 1014836
Works on 200mph race cars, should work fine on a graflex
Mate you can buy them direct from the maker - Mike Furth on FB or his Graflex Guide website a tad cheaper. Cheaper than Shapeways. They are a tad more brittle but the work really well. The only thing I wish they did was not make them so symmetrical and more like the prop where everything is a few mm's out from each other.
Edit: Just seen you are printing your own.... if you do one more accurate let me know I'll be down for that.
Joek3rr
Master Member
Double sided tape it is! Thanks!
Any tips or tricks for drilling the holes? That's got me rather nervous......
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